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UPDATE What else I tried: inserted the OTG cable directly in the Cube and tested with a keyboard, then a mouse, to see if the USB interface works; using the keys or moving the mouse I tried to move something on the screen. No luck. Today, I got the SMAYS (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08D6H7Y85/) from Amazon and - after feverishly inserting both Flirc and network cable in it, it works, I can now use my Harmony to move around the Cube. So, the only conclusion is that there is a problem with the Amazon-provided dongle. Inserting the OTG cable directly into the Cube is not a proper test either.

Before, I had the following setup which worked perfectly well for me: Harmony 300 Flirc Gen1 for the Harmony attached to a Minix U9H with Kodi Kodi set up with sophisticated button assignments, e.g. for buttons with all 4 colors Amazon FireTV Cube with it's own RC Today, I have this: Harmony 300 Flirc Gen 1 - not in use Flirc Gen 2 for the Harmony programmed with the "Nvidia Shield Gen2" profi Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 (works with Flirc, but the power button does not?) & the Kodi app installed What I want to achieve is the following: control the Shields itself & it's normal apps with the Harmony 300 assigned to one "device" button ("Cable/PC") & control the Kodi app ON the Shield with the similar sophisticated button assignments - if needed under a different "device" button ("DVD/Music") I'm not sure if this is possible with one Flirc gen2 device? Would I maybe need to have two gen2 devices (my Flirc Gen1 is not detected under Windows10 anymore with the latest Flirc software so I can't use it)? Would I maybe need to make each flirc "listen" to only one RC "device" (there is a way to do such a selection in Flirc I think)? Thanks!

I figured out what I was doing wrong. I reprogrammed the firc and set the power button to be powertoggle. Now my activities work great.

Okay, it was totally my fault. I used bad batteries in both remotes. Now everything works. Please delete this thread.

Hello, it seems the problem was not the TV itself. I have a new Soundbar, and now it does not happen anymore. So the problem was the input change of the Samsung HW-K450 Soundbar. Regards, Andreas

Hello. I have my flirc coming today so I am trying to setup my harmony 665 to work. When I program flirc in I don't see a suspend/power off button. Will this put the nvidia tv pro to sleep by just turning off the other equipment?

Hi there I have the same behaviour with a panasonic vieja TV. Five month ago, i tried to setup FLIRC for my HTPC with Logitech Harmony Hub. I gave up after some crazy sessions trying to configure the device. Today i try to setup Flirc for Libreelec on PI4, same behaviour. The setup was impossible because of ghost events. FLIRC debug IR mode receive tons of signals. I was becoming mad when i search for the device responsible of it, i finally try setup on laptop and not on HTPC and when i turned off my TV there was no more ghost IR signal received. The odd thing is when there's no direct path between TV and FLIRC, it reflects on glass (windows, small table with glass on it, mirrors). @Polarfox when Jason talk about backlight i think it's not light behind TV but a technique where a light straighten image behind front screen (so a light send towards you). I will make setup with tv off and try to use FLIRC with TV on. Then if FLIRC don't work correctly trying to put it in an opaque pipe to see if i can get it better. Best regards PS : TV model used is TX-P50VT30E EDIT: I just tried what i suggest above : FLIRC Setup : OK with the pipe and TV ON FLIRC Use with nothing : Fail, flirc unusable, 1 of 10 try on the same command is caught by the FLIRC, 0 received for some other commands. FLIRC Use with a long pipe and a cover : OK, works perfectly even if remote is not exactly aiming directly into the tube So i will think of smaller pipe to see if i can get it work. @jason do you think of a way to ignore ghost events ? Is it possible to decrease FLIRC sensibility ? if not possible actually can it be a firmware improvment ? Best regards

I just got a Flirc USB (new stainless steel version) and I would like to use it to control VLC Media Player on Windows 10. I’m using the “full keyboard” controller in the Flirc GUI. On USB keyboards, the keys on the numeric keypad (numbers, arithmetic symbols) send different codes than the same keys on the main keyboard. In VLC media player, pressing the + key on the keyboard’s numeric keypad speeds up playback. However, the Flirc GUI “full keyboard” controller does not include a numeric keypad, so I was wondering if there is any way to have Flirc send the codes for the numeric keypad keys.

I think that would be great - I'd love to see one that allows for HATS to be installed stealthily - modify the design to lower the entire metal area over and between the HAT mounting holes to a lower flat level that still contacts the CPU and USB controller (with slots for camera and display ribbon cables plus the POE header). Given the Pi 4 has such low connectors you would probably not normally need a GPIO riser to fit one. The plastic top would still be level, but could extend down three sides if the 'shelf' makes it too hard to cast. Status displays, TV inputs, UPS batteries would all love this option, and if you didn't need it you can always install a heat sink (or fan) to further help cooling as the top will still cover the void. Throw in a 3D model of the plastic bit (so people can print their own custom tops for taller hats) and you have a makers dream case ;) If someone has a mill they could probably mock it up... anyone?

There appears to be a few bugs in the FLIRC software. Not correctly registered in Windows 10 version 1909 build 18363.535. THe fcfg file type isn't recognized and Save Configuration doesn't work until this is solved. look for File type .fcfg and FLIRC is listed, but not active open the File type and save it File type is now registered. FLIRC will not save the Configuration from a Type 1 FLIRC device. I have an OLD Type 1 FLIRC attached to an Amazon FireTV Box. The controller is a Bang&Olfusen Avant 55 Television with internal IR ports and configuration files (PUCs). This has worked for several years.I wanted to finally swap to the Type 2 device that has been laying around since DEC 2016. In the past the Save and restore didn't function, so I threw the FLIRC type 2 in a drawer for the last 3 years. New configuration software, new luck. Unfortunately no change. If saved the Typ1 Configuration and restored it on a Type 2 Device nothing works as previously defined. There was no reaction at all from the B&O Controller. Swapped the Type 1 back to the Amazon Fire TV and all worked as previously set-up and defined. Can anyone provide assistance to Save and restore that works. The documentation is not up to date and I'm lost, but hoping the Configuration can be moved from one device type to the other. After activating the FLIRC Software in Windows 10 the Saved Configuration File was finally saved and appeared in the windows UI. Previously the UI showed all saved, but nothing was found. The file was invisible on my desktop, Download directory or Temp directory. Since there is no way of seeing key definitions, I'll pass the saved file on. Can anyone explain what isn't working and provide a solution? my_flirc_configV1.fcfg my_flirc_configV2_loaded_fromV1.fcfg

Fn key is not a modifier key in the same sense as other modifier keys like ctrl, alt, shift. Normal modifier keys are being processed on the USB host device (your computer or other device you connect the keyboard or Flirc to). When you press for example ctrl + F, the keyboard sends hid code for key F with modifier code for ctrl. Fn key is being processed on the controller which is built into the keyboard. When you press Fn + F12, the keyboard doesn't send hid code for F12 key anymore. It sends something that's dependant on the keyboard itself (different makers and models have different Fn functions on different keys). In your case, the Fn + F12 is the media key for Play/Pause. You can find it in Flirc GUI in Media Keys controller.

I know support for IR transmission is currently quite limited, but it'd be quite useful if you could 'learn' a button from a remote, and then retransmit that when a different button is pressed. The specific use case is to have one remote with all media buttons mapped for kodi, which obviously currently possible. What's missing is the ability to map the power button on the remote to an arbitrary IR transmit sequence on the Flirc dongle - this would allow it to be mapped to the IR sequence of the TV remote, doing away with the need for two remotes. An additional case would be to make it so you could make the volume buttons control the AV reviewer, not the instance of kodi. This could work well with the "long keypress" feature, so a normal press on the power/volume will be blasted to the TV/AV receiver, whereas a long press could be mapped to kodi.

Will this feature be coming to Flirc any time soon? I have just purchased Flirc V2 with this feature in mind. I currently cant control TV volume with my Apple volume and would love to be able to do this.