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I'm confident this was the issue. After seeing it, finding the problem, understanding it, I have extremely high confidence. This problem only exists for a small portion of users, and it follows windows as well. Blatant disregard to violate the USB spec. I owe you guys a second unit for your patience and help.

Okay guys, I think I figured it out. I pushed an update, GUI version v2.3.8 which has new firmware in it. So confident, I made it public, however, this may in fact just fix @Montas system. But I'm fairly confident. Seems to be a windows only thing, they send a set remote wake up feature request down to the device, in which case I would send a stall/nack. Windows said, 'oh yeah, fuck you' and then disconnected me. I'm now returning OK. This is not a required feature, apparently windows 10 says it is. Please don't leave me hanging if it works, please report back here and let me know. This was both brutal in finding, repeating, and solving.

I've got the other system up and running @Montas suggested and I've reproduced it. I'm furiously trying to find a remedy and won't stop until I do.

Kevin, might need to run the command prompt as an administrator. Not to worry, still very much working on it. I appreciate the help and feedback

The basics of how it all works, just in case: Start with the Harmony config since this seems to be tripping you up. You only need to pick one device for your Shield profile, and (ironically enough) you don't want to pick "Shield TV" WITH the Harmony since that profile is for models that have IR (or WiFi/BT if you have the Harmony hub) and you don't want that since you are using a FLIRC. Just pick something that has a lot of buttons available (for flexibility) and won't interfere with any other devices you have. A lot of us here us the ViewTV AT-163 profile. Pick it and name it whatever you want, like "Shield TV" :) Now your Harmony is programmed to send IR signals for all (or at least most) of it's buttons. *It doesn't matter what those signals are* as long as they are each unique and don't accidentally trigger other equipment (which is why the AT-163 is a good choice....unless of course you have one :) ). All that matters is that when you press a button, a unique IR command is blasted out. The FLIRC will do the rest. Now, the FLIRC. The FLIRC dongle takes those discreet IR signals and translates them to commands the Shield TV understands. When you program the FLIRC via its application and assign IR commands to buttons you want to make sure you use the Shield layout first, for the basics, because Jason updated the software with the correct commands the Shield needs. Specifically, the "ok" button now functions correctly cross-app. So choose that profile and manually (don't click "Go" and have it do it automatically, that will map some commands you want for Kodi later twice) click each button, then press the corresponding button on your Harmony remote to map it. Basically, the 4 directions, the "ok" button, the back button, and the home button. Pick the buttons on your Harmony you want to do those functions (should be obvious) and have at it. Once you've done that, bring up the Kodi layout. Now you can program buttons for things like Play, Pause, ff/rw, etc. If you want even more control, skip the Kodi layout and use the full keyboard layout instead. Pull up (or print) this page for reference: http://kodi.wiki/view/Keyboard_controls . That's a complete list of keyboard shortcuts for Kodi. You can assign buttons to whatever keys on the keyboard you want. Don't forget that with most Harmony's you can also create custom buttons if you want to map advanced stuff, like for subtitles. Again, it doesn't matter what IR commands are assigned to the Harmony for each button, as long as it is discreet! The FLIRC is going to take whatever IR signal you sent it and translate that to the correct keyboard command. Doing this will give you: Basic Shield remote functionality across all applications (except voice control, since there's no mic on the Harmony.) Advanced keymap control for apps that support full keyboard commands - like Kodi. Get it?

one of the major reasons I haven't done this is because of windows. Fuck windows. I spent half my time with the first generation working on stupid driver issues, signing inf's and windows not correctly installing them. It's a gigantic waist of time and I lost a lot of sleep over it. Unless I figure out how to show up as a serial device in windows without a driver, I'm not in a position to do this. I'm working on finishing features for flirc gen2 and new products. I also haven't found a protocol definition for LIRC and UART. I also don't want to be in a position to be debugging LIRC. After all, Flirc stands for F[uck] LIRC. Built entirely out of my frustration with it. Flirc is an embodiment of "This shouldn't be this hard"

If you have to ask, you more than likely don't need it. It's just the extension for packages used by Debian, and it's various forks. ( Ubuntu, Linux Mint, etc)

I added the apt repo per the Debian instructions at https://flirc.tv/ubuntu-software-installation-guide to my Ubuntu 16.04 system. Trying to run 'apt update' gives me the following error: Err:10 http://apt.flirc.tv/arch/x64 binary/ Release 404 Not Found E: The repository 'http://apt.flirc.tv/arch/x64 binary/ Release' does not have a Release file. N: Updating from such a repository can't be done securely, and is therefore disabled by default. N: See apt-secure(8) manpage for repository creation and user configuration details. I don't mean to be an ass but it shouldn't be 2-3 days of effort to properly set up an apt repo. https://blog.packagecloud.io/eng/2015/08/04/apt-repository-internals/

Look at this post: It's not officially released yet, but you can use Upgrade Firmware in the Flirc GUI to flash these. To know which model you have (either nemo or dori) you can go to Advanced in Flirc GUI when Flirc is connected and you should see something like SKU: Flirc 2.0 [nemo] for example.

You could be right, looks like that's a setting on the shield too.

I'm going to make this public soon. Flirc IR Documentation.pdf

@dharrah the remote seems to be programmable. When you switch to one of the non-DirecTV modes you should be able to reprogram the remote to use with different manufacturers and models. You should've got instructions and setup codes in some kind of user manual with the remote. Try programming different setup codes in different modes to find one that works best for you. If you don't have your user manual, then you can download this one: https://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/Remote_Controls/DIRECTVRC64forWeb.pdf If you don't have a Samsung TV then first try Samsung TV codes. If you have a Samsung TV then try an LG for example. Also Panasonic TV codes are said to be working well with Flirc.

I owe you guys the thank you. And endless amount of gratitude for your patience and support.

Ok, i can write you all settings or i can send you a TrueImage image with my exact system. I think it will be around 30-40GB. I have enough space in Google Drive but i need few days for imaging and upload. Bios setting are default except "Wake from USB Keyboard/Remote" ENABLED Tell me which you prefer. PS: there's one problem...it's all in Italian language :) I could reinstall in English if you really really really need. Bye

I also noticed this issue. I hold the D-pad direction (usually down as it's easiest) for 2-3 seconds and it wakes up. Now I didn't think of it but I also have a USB hub in place, was a purpose to connect a wireless mouse and testing a thumb drive. But I never removed it. It's still behind the box so didn't use it to extend sight. I'll have to try my down trick without the USB hub.

Ordered all the components. Hopefully I can reproduce this on site. Expect an update about one week from today, everything arrives early next week. @Montas please send me all the details you can. Windows 10 64 professional? Any settings after a format? Can you save your BIOS config and post here? Send me a picture of all your peripherals, if possible. What USB connectors is everything plugged into? Did you install any software after a fresh install? Any settings after fresh install? How do you put your computer to sleep/suspend? How long does it take for sleep to cause this? Is there any difference between putting the pc to sleep, waiting for hibernation, and just going to hibernation? I'll add more if I think of anything.

Okay, great news, I'll order everything for it today.

Please keep us all updated - i have a new HTPC thats been sitting unused for 5 months waiting for this one last fix. Bought the FLIRC for the advertised wake function and really don't want to look into returning it and using MCE receivers again.

Unfortunately no, I don't have any more. However, I'm not going to give up. I've just been swamped and I'm going to get back to this very shortly. It's not an option for me to not solve this. I will solve it.

Just wanted to chime in here. That Samsung remote will send IR codes dependent on the device listing with the television. When setting up my Sony Soundbar, when using the Power Test..and choosing the second option, the directional pad + center button would work. Back button would not. When I reran the Power Test, and used the THIRD option..which also worked for my Soundbar, all buttons would transmit in IR.

In case anybody is interested, I have figured out how to turn off the Shield TV with Harmony 650+Flirc (or more precisely, put the Shield TV to sleep.) Yes, I'm THAT OCD about keeping my power bill down (not to mention keeping my house cooler in Phoenix summers.) What you'll want to do is tell your Harmony that in fact you do want to control the power of your Shield TV, and then set the Flirc to recognize your profile's power off button. Different profiles have different defaults in this regard, and I know people use different ones, so I'm just going to tell you how I configured mine: 1. I used DanVM's instructions (found here), only I used Flirc XBMC profile (when I chose it, MyHarmony called it Flirc Kodi) as my beginning template and renamed it to Shield TV. 2. In the MyHarmony application, Under Devices > Change Device Settings > Power Settings > Next > I want to turn off this device when not in use. > I press the same button for on and for off > Next > +Add Command > Under the dropdown menu, select PowerOff > Leave everything else default and click Finish 3. Open the Flirc application > Controllers > Media Keys > click the power icon button. 4. On your Harmony remote's LCD screen buttons, go to Devices > Shield TV (or whatever you named it) > Power Off. (If your flirc application says 'Recorded Successfully', then it worked, even if it suspended your PC.) Done! Connect your Flirc to your Shield TV and your harmony remote should turn it off as expected. Ideally, somebody could pester logitech (I don't know how to contact them) to add a Flirc + Shield TV profile that effectively does everything I mentioned above. Here are some things that I wish we could have but probably can't ever have: - Universal 8 second back / 30 second forward buttons that don't bring up the playbar overlay - Universal subtitle toggle button (for those moments when you're not quite sure what the person is saying) - A way to use voice search without having to reach for the Shield TV stick remote (By universal, I mean works on every app) One can only dream, I suppose. Nonetheless, this works really well, and I have to say that the Shield TV is the best STB I've ever owned (you really can have it all with this thing; netflix, amazon, youtube, plex, kodi, hbo, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD, emulators, all on a very speedy UI) and Flirc makes it even better.

Hi, This is a Bluetooth based remote controller. You can't use it with anything else than a supported Samsung TV. Flirc is an IR receiver. It only works with IR based remote controllers.

Hey I created an account just to respond here. Has Amazon gotten back to you on the long press problem? I love FLIRC. I use my Harmony 650 with FLIRC and Amazon Fire TV and everything works great EXCEPT the long press for Home or Menu buttons, which makes the functionality for the FireTV and Playstation Vue a little less than ideal. Thanks!

Better documentation is on it's way. This is all you need to do: 1. Fire up harmony, and add the manufacturer Flirc, and device firetv to your harmony You don't need my software, I worked with harmony to add built in support. But since you already paired something, plug it in, fire up the Flirc GUI, and format the device. That's it. Plug it into your harmony, the codes are in Read only memory on flirc.

@Andaho I'm always recommending a Samsung TV remote :). This can also be any other device which uses either NECx1 or NECx2 protocols. They are simple (both have the same structure, NECx2 differs in that it also have a subdevice id in addition to only device id in NECx1 - so more possible, non-conflicting codes). In comparison to NEC1 and NEC2 (without "x") they also use full frame repeat (when you hold the remote button down, it sends the same signal over and over again) where NEC (without "x") protocols use only a special repeat short signal. Do you use RemoteMaster software with your remote? I think your remote doesn't have the serial port exposed and needs to be opened to access the port. But this gives a lot of possibilities. You can edit almost anything in your remote, even create your own device profiles, where you can select everything from the protocol to a code each of the buttons sends out. I don't know if there's an extender for your remote (a piece of additional software you can install in it to give it additional capabilities like long press etc).

If you don't have a Samsung TV then you can try 2051 in TV mode. On that code both v1 and v2 work really well. It uses NECx2 protocol which works really well with Flirc. I don't know how well do you know your remote, but if you don't want to use TV device slot on your remote for Flirc, then you can switch any other device slot to a TV mode (this means you can use codes for TVs on that slot). To do that you can use 9xx codes: http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=992 Just replace SETUP button with Magic button, and when there's an info to tap a specific device button then select the slot using Device button and confirm with Magic. For example, if you want to use a TV code on DVD slot, then use following sequence: Hold Magic for few seconds, until one of the device slots blink 2 times and stay lit.Enter 992 (the led should blink 2 times after entering last digit).Using device button, select TV slot and press Magic.Using device button, select DVD slot and press Magic (the led should blink 2 times after that operation).After that you can select DVD slot, hold down the Magic button then when in programming mode, enter 2051. If you want to reset DVD slot to a DVD codes repeat the same sequence but in step 3 also select DVD slot (so 2 times the same slot). This works the same way on my OFA Smart Control. Also on v2, when you record a button, please hold it a little longer. Flirc v2 analyses the delay between signal repeats and saves that value along the button and key info.

Nothing can beat a remote with physical buttons :). Especially one with good key layout which makes it easy to control your equipment without looking at the controller.

That may be anecdotal for you but is not an inherent flaw. I use WiFi integration with a hub and one of my Shields and have no issues with latency whatsoever. A lot of factors can cause latency issues. You might have misunderstood me; I was just using IR as an example "what if". To your point though, yes, decoding IR signals is easy and straightforward, BT is another matter entirely and understanding the inner workings of remote control there is hard.

@ixian I don't think this is a matter of manufacturers sharing IR protocols. It's a matter of transfer medium and how easy/hard it is to analyse the signals. To analyse even some new IR protocol you should be able to do that using equipment that costs less than $20-$30. There's really not much variance between different protocols: they can vary in carrier frequency, timings between bursts and lengths of the bursts themselves. The only issue may be in decoding how to interpret these bursts as ones and zeros. Medium (as in IR light) is relatively easy to work with. Also it's usually a one way communication so you don't need to track it in both ways. Actually you really don't need to even decode the original command and use different techniques to just create your own information from detected timings. Flirc works like that. Most of the generic IR receivers (non-MCE) that can capture almost any remote work like that. Unfortunately there are some protocols which send the same command code with varying signals (so each button press sends a signal that is somehow different from the previous). RC-5 is such protocol for example. It changes a single bit between presses. That's why you need to record each key twice in Flirc if you use RC-5 protocol (like MCE). BT is at a totally different level. You have bi-directional communication. BT remotes usually are first paired to the target device (so the remote knows BT address of controlled device and the device knows the BT address of the remote). Pairing can be a standard one (like in case of PS4) or proprietary (like in case of LG Magic Remote). After that you need to know how a device is controlled. This can be done with different BT profiles (serial profile, HID profile, Bluetooth Low Energy, etc) where each profile has totally different setup and way of working with. Hardware which allows to capture and analyse BT traffic is horrendously expensive. Medium (as in RF @ 2.4 GHz) is not easy to work with because there are other protocols also working in that band (mostly Wi-Fi). @Hotwire I still think that the best approach with BT would be to use BT adapter. But it requires some work to be done. First of all you need to find out what's the control scheme of specific BT remote and if it's possible to pair it with generic BT adapter. Then some software would be required to translate BT commands into commands usable on the target device. There's also a chance that the remote uses HID profile and at least some keys can work without additional software (like direction keys).

Imagine if, back in the day when IR got traction, all the different manufacturers implemented it, used their own codes, and refused to share them. And if there was no way to easily intercept and decipher said codes. That's more or less what you have with BT today. BT also has limitations and as for how "fast" it is that is entirely up to how well it is implemented. Logitech worked directly with Sony on their PS4 implementation, for example. Doing the same thing for example with a HTPC is an entirely different problem. If anything, I see wifi remote control becoming more common. The Shield and a few other devices already offer it (the Harmony can control the Shield over Wifi today) and virtually every device including TVs today have wifi, whereas BT isn't as common. The FLIRC is an excellent supplement to devices like these. For example, having full keyboard shortcuts mapped to IR makes the Shield far more functional with apps like Kodi that support keyboard shortcuts.

Yes, I know what advantages it would bring. It's not my decision to make of course, but to be honest, I don't see that ever happening. First of all, Logitech probably has agreements with all manufacturers which they support with their BT remote control. That gives them an access to protocol specifications. I don't say it's impossible, but certainly hard for a small company like Flirc to get such an agreement from big TV appliance producers.Every manufacturer uses rather their own control protocol. Flirc would need a separate support (in the firmware) for each manufacturer's BT remote control. This is NOT standardised in any way.This applies at least to Samsung and LG (I don't know about others): BT TV remotes still require an IR to turn the TV on first as they don't support turning on over BT. This means that the remote won't send a BT command for power button.I hope I'm in the wrong here though as that would certainly be a nice feature. But I won't hold my breadth.

I say this as politely as possible, and I do recognize that the question is answered... but: 1. When your product box includes no instructions or even a web link to download the software, something is wrong. 2. When the software AND website offer no indication that the new version has any feature differences, something is wrong. 3. When the new version of product exhibits the exact same issues as a previous version and has no fixes EVEN THOUGH THE PREVIOUS VERSION DOES, something is wrong. 4. When the company responds that the new algorithm "definitely needs some tweaks", something is wrong. 5. When you complain about a question being asked repeatedly WHEN THE TOPIC IMMEDIATELY PRECEDING THIS OFFERS SOLUTIONS THAT ONLY APPLY TO THE PREVIOUS VERSION WITHOUT ACTUALLY SAYING THAT, something is wrong. The advanced options are not available because they "aren't needed?" Do you want me to upload video of my Flirc V2 PROGRAMMING ITSELF with random noise while wrapped in electrical tape, under a sweatshirt, and attached to a 6 ft USB cable? Geezus H.... If you want people to stop asking the question, then maybe, just maybe, update your damned website or the application itself to give people some clue of what's going on. I've obtained a Flirc v1 and, OMG, using the advanced settings, I can mostly make it work! Wow.

The Flirc program does nothing but program the Flirc itself. After that the device is simply seen as a usb keyboard. As far as launching a program with keystrokes, that will depend on what OS you are using. So what you really need to do is Google how to launch a program via keyboard with your chosen OS. There are dozens of ways to do it in Linux; in Windows I haven't a clue.

same issue... it'd be easier to be patient if there were some updates of it being worked on, possible work around, or something

Any news on this? Waiting on next gen Shield perhaps?

If you have a harmony, there are some existing devices already that you can add to your harmony, and flirc support is built in for these devices. Right now, there is a kodi, and a firetv device. I'll be reaching out to them shortly to add some more.

Here is a copy of v1.4.4: https://flirc.tv/software/release/gui/windows/Flirc.v1.4.4.exe I'm still working on a fix.

Okay, Just to let other know, changing the USB position helped the crash. I've got a local repro here, and I'll be working on a fix today.

Have a look in the guides section of... http://www.aftvnews.com

Yes. It uses custom IR protocol. I don't know the details though. Jason could say more on that subject. It's not really pre-programmed in the sense of programming it with Flirc GUI. Mappings between Harmony profiles and specific keyboard combos are built-in in the firmware itself. As I've mentioned above it's a custom protocol. I don't know who created it (Jason or Logitech). Profiles have a list of functions which are assigned a code and then are assigned to a button. You don't need to have a spare remote. I don't know the details (I don't have or use Harmony remote) but you should be able to add another device profile (possibly for a device you don't have at home) and then map some functions from that profile to inactive buttons in Flirc/Kodi profile. At least that's what I've read. As I've mentioned above, those mappings are not really pre-programmed, but built into the firmware. You can't erase them. You can disable them in advanced options in Flirc GUI (there's a checkbox for built-in profiles). You can override them though. You can use a button that has a function in built-in profile and record different key combination for it. User programmed mapping takes precedence. After that, if you want to restore original function from the built-in profile you need to erase that key. You can always make feature requests :). Unfortunately Flirc is being developed by a single person and adding something that can be added by a user himself won't have high priority.

Thanks for the help. I recorded the output from the harmony remote using Lirc but it could not decipher it. I then captured the output on a scope and tried to decode it manually but it does not follow any of the protocols I could find. I also tried controlling Flirc using the Microsoft RC6 protocol on the harmony remote but that did work well, it generated missing and duplicate actions. Any help would be much appreciated.

This may be repeated information, but here is how I got my old Harmony One working with my new FireTV. This required no command line configuration, and no copying anything to the FireTV. It seems like the new Flirc firmware addressed many of these things, so most of the help I was looking for in setting it up were out of date. I got the FireTV mainly to use Kodi, so my setup was centered on that use case. I had no idea that you could use the Flirc Windows GUI to set up multiple, co-existing profiles on the Flirc - I read that here on these forums, and it made setup easier for me. I have the latest firmware loaded into the Flirc, the latest update to the FireTV, and the current downloadable version of Kodi as of August 7, 2015. With that latest configuration, setup was actually quite straightforward...here are the steps I took 1) Add the Flirc device to the Harmony remote. Using the Harmony desktop software for my ancient Harmony One, I was able to add the Flirc as a Windows Media Center device (Add Device -> Device Type = Windows Media Center, Manufacturer = Flirc, Model = Kodi 2) Create an activity for "FireTV" I also modified the activity to send a "0" command to the FireTV when I switch to that activity. The "0" button doesn't seem to have any real effect other that waking it up. I didn't want to use "Select" because the One isn't very smart about not sending commands to devices that are already awake, and I didn't want switching to the FireTV from say the TiVo to execute a "Select" command not knowing what it may be selecting... :) 3) Use my WDLive SMP remote to add "learned" commands for "Menu", and "Home", and "Back", and assign them to the desired buttons on the Harmony. The Flirc configuration for the One within the Harmony software didn't program these buttons to send any IR signal (I may have screwed up but nothing happened on the Flirc GUI when I pressed those buttons, so I assume that no signal was sent). Learning any old IR command from any other remote should work, but I happened to have a WDLive remote handy so I used it. 4) Update the Harmony One remote. 5) Plug the Flirc into the PC and set up the FireTV profile first (in the Flirc GUI). For my case, I created a virtual button on the LCD of the One called "Home" and used it for "Home". I used the hard buttons "Previous" and "Menu" for "Back" and "Context Menu" respectively. 6) After configuring the FireTV in the Flirc GUI, set up the Kodi profile. I did not reuse the buttons I used to program the FireTV profile with. After that, I connected the Flirc to the FireTV using a USB extender I had lying around and everything worked (except for voice commands which I knew wouldn't work anyway). I used this configuration all last night and didn't encounter any repeated button presses, missed presses, or anything. The response was snappy, and it worked for navigating the FireTV's native UI as well as Kodi's UI. Anyway, this little device is pretty sweet. Would have been sweeter if I got the FireTV first (I got a Fire Stick and returned it to get the FireTV) 'cuz when I had the Stick, the Flirc was on sale on Amazon for $14.99 . Oh well...it was still worth the $19.99 I paid for it!