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Is there a way to have a profile created that assigns Android Keycodes to remote buttons? I am using an Inteset remote and want to use the android keycodes in the link below to map each button. This will be for full funtionality on a Nvidia Shield TV. https://elementalx.org/button-mapper/android-key-codes/

1) Had the Flirc software loaded on my Windows 8.1 machine and it worked fine, upgraded to Windows 10 and it STILL works. 2) Did NOT have Flirc program loaded on another Windows 8.1 machine, upgraded to Windows 10, installed Flirc program and it will NOT work. When I check the device manager it says that there is a driver problem with the Flirc device. If I start the Flirc program it does not show the device as connected and when I exit it tells me that the program is not working properly and forces a program shut down. Anyone else having this problem or know how to correct the driver problem? Can I obtain the Flirc drives so I can point Windows 10 to them? Thanks in advance

OK. I was able to get it working by right clicking the Flirc device in the Device Manager and select Update Driver Software. Then select Browse My Computer and point it to Program Files (x86) > Flirc > Driver > usb_driver All working good now.

100% confirmed. I just got my own copy of windows 10 yesterday and I will work on solving this over the weekend. I'm very sorry for the inconvenience. The biggest lesson for me, is that I need to start signing up for developer access for windows and mac. Thanks so much, hang in there. I believe you can pair it on another machine and use it in windows 10 just fine, can you confirm? Very Sincerely, Jason

See our knowledge base for help and information https://flirc.zendesk.com/

No, the two are currently virtually identical as far as features. I'll help figure this out. It's likely due to something I didn't catch. Please post a picture of your device manager when you have a moment.

I recently purchased a flirc usb off Amazon.ca. I can't seem to get it working on my Windows 10 32bit system. I've tried manual driver installation, wiping drivers with ghostbuster, and zadig. The flirc usb I have looked different from the one that's sold on the site. I'm guessing Amazon.ca sells an older model? Is this the problem?

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, however I thought this was sort of related: I recently (few months ago) upgraded my MS Surface Pro 3 to Win10. I also have another SP3 that came with Win10 installed by MS. I also have a Windows7 nano-pc (amd fusion e350 apu based nettop) on which I run Kodi and WMC, which is where I primarily use my FLIRC. Recently, I tried to program the FLIRC on one of my surfaces (don't recall which one). I installed the FLIRC software/gui on the surface and plugged the flirc into it. I was able to program it normally. However, when I then plugged the flirc back into the Win7 htpc box to use as I normally do, it wouldn't work. The solution was to load the FLIRC gui software onto the Win7 htpc box, program it there, and then it worked fine. I know that in the past I had programmed the flirc on the Surface when it was running Win8.1. So something changed with Win10. I've got a decent work-around here, so I'm not complaining or requesting a fix, but I thought this might be a good FYI for you.

No. But you can imagine how hard it's been with the virus. Everyone is at home. My supply chain is constrained, and I have to do everything myself.

Sure, no problem. First of all, just for future reference, the FLIRC command-line utility has built-in reference for all commands it supports. To view a list of all supported commands, use the "help" command: flirc_util.exe help Please note that I am on Windows, hence the ".exe" part. You may not need it if you are on macOS or Linux. To view reference for a specific command, use the same "help" command, but after it specify the command you need reference for, like this (without the <> brackets): flirc_util.exe help <command> So, when you run: flirc_util.exe help sendir here's what you get: Help for 'sendir' command: usage: sendir <opts> sendir --pattern=0,153,1231,131 --repeat=3 --ik=32000 OPTIONS: -i, --ik set the interkey delay between rep. frames -r, --repeat number of times to repeat pattern -k, --kill kill any currently running transmission -p, --pattern send the comma delimited pattern Which means the correct way of sending out your code, provided that you only need to repeat it once, would be as follows: flirc_util.exe sendir --pattern=0,8978,4384,608,469,608,1592,608,469,608,464,613,1592,608,469,608,464,612,478,608,469,608,464,612,1589,612,465,612,1592,608,1593,612,464,613,473,612,1588,612,465,612,464,612,465,612,465,612,464,608,465,612,477,613,464,608,1592,612,1588,612,1588,612,1588,612,1589,612,1592,612,1592,612 --repeat=1

Ya know, I think I figured this out. the Flirc is not programmable by us. It already has all the keyboard mappings that it supports. All we do is tell Flirc which button on our remote will "press" which key on the keyboad that flirc knows about. I thought this whole time that I was programming the flirc like I do with a learning remote. In case others are confused like me, if you want flirc to press HOME, click on HOME in the Flirc SW and then when it's ready to learn press that key on the remote. This will basically translate your keypress on the remote to a "keyboard" keypress that flirc will send to the device. I can't say that this was explained very well in the documentation or the marketing rah rah on the web site. Thank you for indulging me.

You got your wish Being able to directly send Android keycodes is still not possible unless there is another undocumented method, but it is possible to invoke KEYCODE_SEARCH.

There is no 3.12, I'll push an update to address this. Sorry about that.

My menu key on my Harmony one Advanced is a soft key on the display. I have never been able to program a long press Home key though. My Flirc plugs into my Fire TV box on a 90 degree angle adapter.

Okay, I think I got it. Everyone was using windows, and there was something that needed to be fixed in my report descriptor and it looks like other OS's were more lenient. Sorry, please try the attached. File->advanced to get your sku, and then do file->upgrade ,and upload one of the attached. gen 1 devices can use the flirc-gen1v3.12.bin file nemo.release-4.9.1.bindori.release-4.9.1.bin flirc-gen1-v3.12.bin

Perfect, thanks for letting me know.

Hello Jason: I got my new Flirc, thank you very much, I spent less than five minutes upgrading firmware and programming the buttons/keys and it works like a charm. Great product, you're a class act and I will continue to sing the praises of Flirc! Well, not that I ever stopped, but you know what I mean ;-)

Sorry, let me try to clarify. Your assessment isn't correct, but that's because I might not have been clear. Think of it this way. Flirc is a language translator. Each computer is listening to flirc. Both flircs can say 'space bar'. Each computer can understand and respond to this when flirc says 'spacebar' However, they don't both always respond at the same time. You can then teach one flirc to learn spanish, and one flirc to learn french. They will both translate and repeat the word 'spacebar' when they hear it in their corresponding language that they understand. If you take your remote, and say the instruction in french, one flirc will say spacebar to the computer connected, but the other one wont, because it only speaks spanish. Now take the languages we identified as spanish and french. When logitech speaks spanish / french, it's actually speaking a unique infrared protocol. There are thousands, and they don't conflict. That's how you can control multiple devices in the same room, with a single remote. The remote is speaking each unique language that only the specific device understands. So now you've added the profile: Flirc, NVIDIA to your harmony. All flircs understand the NVIDIA profile. On the one you don't want to respond to that, go to File->Adavnced, and disable the built in NVIDIA profile. Add another 'language', or protocol to your harmony for that second flirc that the first one doesn't understand. Choose an ambiguous device that doesn't exist in your living room. Like a panasonic TV. After adding it to your harmony, rename it to, Gaming PC, or Movie Machine, or whatever it is it's connected too. Then pair that new profile with this flirc. You can pair any signal that remote sends out with spacebar, and the other one wont also send that to the machine, because you never paired that protocol. Let me know if that's a little more clear.

Hi, Can you add the < Context Menu > key for PC (between Fn and right CRTL) to the Full Keyboard controller layout ? Thanks

I'll try to send them out tomorrow. I ran into a couple issues that's eating my time. They are on my desk and I got to finish off a bit of code. Almost there.

I'm looking to buy just the thermal pads for the Flirc Raspberry Pi 3b (regular) case Kodi version, but I can't find them anywhere online.

Is it possible to assign keys from numeric keypad? In full keyboard there's no numeric keypad at all. And second thing, how to list in software every programmed shortcuts (i.e. for editing).

I'm just curious. Did you solve it?

As for me, on https://topspyingapps.com/parental-control-android/ you can find really useful info about android parental control. It's really important to know

Hi guys, If you can't connect to your Flirc (Generation 1) on Windows 10, this guide might help you.If you are uninterested about the possible cause of this problem go ahead and scroll down to "Try this"From the beginning I thought the issue was caused by the software/firmware, plain and simple. As it turns out, that's not it... I've tried versions from v.3.10.0 to latest 3.22.4.and all reported the same thing.After troubleshooting all day long I believe this particular issue has risen all of the sudden, in my case. After two major Windows updates.Everytime A feature update is installed all USB Devices are re-installed. But not always in the same place. If you ever used the Device Manager and checked "Show hidden devices" You've probably seen some grayed out devices. These are devices that aren't currently connected OR they've been installed in another location. So if Flirc was installed on location A prior to an feature update. Flirc might now be installed on location B. Where on location B some other device was previously installed and are now casing mayhem...that is my theory anyways after doing what I did which you now will read about. Try this1. Open the Device Manager by Right-Clicking the Windows Logo on the Taskbar.2. In Device Manager, select View and "Show Hidden Devices"3. Remove Flirc from the USB port and uninstall the software, then remove the Flirc folder.4. In Device Manager, uninstall (Delete, Enter) any grayed out devices in all the areas shown on the picture.5. Restart.6. Install latest Flirc.7. Connect the Flirc.8. If it doesn't work. Try using different driver for your USB controller* Then repeat 1-7.9. Let me know how it goes. * especially If you have an ASMedia controller with native drivers from 2016 Flirc GUI will not work. Confirmed on a fresh Windows install.

Try this =)

Hi all, I bought a Flirc SE. It works great for controlling Kodi, etc. However, I'm trying to use the "SE" functionality of it and actually have it power off/on the computer. When I go into the Flirc software though, to bind power toggle to a button on my harmony remote, the software says that the Flirc is disconnected, in the title bar. Which is weird, given that it definitely works. I've tried fully uninstalling/reinstalling the software and drivers, but no luck. Anything I can try?

Ok @jason, I think I figured out what is causing this... I decided to take advantage of my 5 FLIRCs and several computers to swap around different FLIRCs on different computers. It looks like it's an incompatibility between an (older?) BIOS and the newer FLIRC firmwares. The problematic FLIRC actually works fine IN ALL MY OTHER COMPUTERS. I even have another computer that happily uses the newer firmware! (most recently acquired FLIRC) This is what I found: The older firmware FLIRCs (I have 3 out of 5) show this in the dmesg logs (this is from an ACER laptop that accepts the new FLIRC firmware): [ 2.684173] usb 3-1: Product: flirc [ 2.684179] usb 3-1: Manufacturer: flirc.tv [ 3.175146] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0001: hiddev0,hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Device [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:1d.1-1/input0 [ 3.178524] input: flirc.tv flirc Keyboard as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input9 [ 3.240745] input: flirc.tv flirc Consumer Control as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input10 [ 3.241127] input: flirc.tv flirc System Control as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input11 [ 3.241493] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0002: input,hidraw1: USB HID v1.01 Keyboard [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:1d.1-1/input1 The 2 newer FLIRCs show this: [ 2.657673] usb 3-1: Product: flirc [ 2.657678] usb 3-1: Manufacturer: flirc.tv [ 3.175787] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0001: hiddev0,hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Device [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:1d.1-1/input0 [ 3.181080] input: flirc.tv flirc Keyboard as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input9 [ 3.240721] input: flirc.tv flirc Consumer Control as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input10 [ 3.241115] input: flirc.tv flirc System Control as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb3/3-1/3-1:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input11 [ 3.241510] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0002: input,hidraw1: USB HID v1.01 Keyboard [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:1d.1-1/input1 [ 3.243629] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0003: hiddev1,hidraw2: USB HID v1.11 Device [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:1d.1-1/input2 Notice that extra last line? (hiddev1,hidraw2.../input2) all my other computers are happy with that extra device but not that particular one. Other computers have varying dmesg output concerning the recognized device, based on the various BIOSes but this last line is the consistent difference between the new firmware and the older one. Incidentally, the computer with the problem, using an older firmware FLIRC shows this at boot-up: [ 2.910197] usb 2-6: Product: flirc [ 2.910202] usb 2-6: Manufacturer: flirc.tv [ 3.004565] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0001: hiddev0,hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Device [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:04.0-6/input0 [ 3.005672] input: flirc.tv flirc as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:04.0/usb2/2-6/2-6:1.1/0003:20A0:0006.0002/input/input5 [ 3.064504] hid-generic 0003:20A0:0006.0002: input,hidraw1: USB HID v1.01 Keyboard [flirc.tv flirc] on usb-0000:00:04.0-6/input1 Notice it doesn't identify the "Keyboard", "Consumer Control" nor the "System Control" devices? but it does recognize input,hidraw1 as "USB HID v1.01 Keyboard". Ok, I hope this helps because I think I'm at the end of what I can contribute here ;-) I guess if no solution is found, I can always swap out an older FLIRC and never upgrade the firmware until this issue is resolved..? Thanks, Daniel P.S. Is it just me but each time I want to log in to this forum, my password isn't recognized and I have to go through the "Forgot password" mechanism. I can then just re-enter the same password again and I am good to go until I log out!?

This is not working, we're messaging hours a part. I'll DM you my private contact info.

ffs! I've been searching for more then 1 hour for an older version of flirc. Because... " [v3.22.4] [gui] Windows driver fixes for gen1 products Does the opposite. Now Flirc software does not work. Says device disconnected BUT ITS NOT! works just fine. So why did I update then, well. I wanted to adjust the input repeat or whats its called but that's impossible now ... so PLZ for the love of GOD dont wipe the net of older version of Flirc. It's always a good idea to have a couple of versions live. So, can I please have, and older version, Unsure on when it stopped working. Haven't updated Flirc for a while. Not sure with generation I have. Mine is see through plastic. Running on Windows 10 latest update. flirc_log.txt

yes, that's exactly how flirc-se works. Also, if you have a regular flirc, record the 'wake' key, and it'll only wake the computer with that paired key. It's on the keyboard controller next to F12

hi yawor, thanks for your answer !I found that too and tried that ...but Cann't work it out for instance I want to record next Chanel what should be a "+ " sign , I can't find it on full keybord I tried other presets but it still doesn'T behave as it did... up and down volume but if you program and go to the "program guide" it is imposible to navigate.... is really strange that nobody else figured that out I found something in forums but to be honest I do not have a glue what they are writing about..;-(

I changed the inter-key delay and the flirc debug still has it at e24. Inter-key at 100 or 1000 doesn't change the value in the debug window.

It can't be zero, that's impossible. Try zero, and then go to advanced, and go to device log. Here is what we are looking for: :e:6221 0,4915,4792,892,1579,893,1578,889,1582,893,741,918,1548,893,1579,892,1579,893,4374,864,769,888,746,866,767,919,719,888,741,892,741,893,1578,1727,1581,891,771,867,766,863 :e:24 0,4938,4792,837,1657,841,1631,841,1630,810,824,841,1630,863,1631,814,1657,836,4401,841,793,815,823,837,797,837,797,836,798,836,797,841,1657,1674,1631,837,797,841,794,815 The :e:24 stands for 24ms since the last pulse train. The :e:6221 stands for 6,221 seconds since the last pulse train ( button press). You want to get that 24ms up to 75, and you're good. Keep playing with the number, checking the Flirc gui, and keep me posted.

Any way we could get a sticky setup for both of these? I used the instructions here (https://flirc.gitbooks.io/flirc-instructions/content/universal-remote-controls/logitech-harmony-remote-controls/nvidia-shield-tv.html) and still was left with missing functions. I combed through this entire forum topic and using these two forum posts allowed all the buttons to function on Kodi and from the Nvidia Shield TV Android interface along with powering off my device when turning it off (with the second post). Anyone still having problems. these two solved all my issues.

You can display all programmed keys using a command line tool. It's been installed together with the GUI. It's called flirc_util. What OS are you using? Regarding the numpad, I'll try to prepare a "plugin" version of it over the weekend.

I finally downloaded the new version but still there's no Full Keyboard with numeric keypad :( And lack of viewing all programmed keys is so awkward. I wonder why it's not implemented? It's so obvious functionality in program like Flirc.

Can I get answer?

Should I look for the new version here: https://flirc.tv/downloads or in another place?

Yes, I've been super swamped with black friday and cyber monday. Super swamped. We have an update that should allow you to do this. I'll try and push this in the next day or so. all credit to @yawor, who whipped up all the code to allow a plugin style architecture.

Okay, no issues here. Maybe let's try and get on a team viewer session.

This is probably unsupported in any way by Jason so please don't report bugs in other threads when using this solution. If you have any problems with this setup it is better to post them here and I'll try to help if I have time to do so. Hi, This how-to is for users who want to build more advanced control schemes using their Flirc devices. It is mainly directed to Windows users because there is no way in Windows to capture input from a single keyboard, but can be done in Linux. But it should be also applicable in other OS-es when used with correct software. The problem is that not everything can be done just by defining a single key combinations. There are applications like AutoHotKey (AHK) or EventGhost (EG) that can capture specific key combinations but there is a problem. Having many buttons on the mapped remote it is sometimes hard to find key combinations that are not used as OS or other apps shortcuts already. By capturing the specific key combination in AHK or EG user basically blocks this combination even on a normal keyboard connected to the PC (as there is no way in Windows to capture only input from one specific keyboard). Here comes HID standard for the rescue. HID keyboards are just one of the many usages of this standard. Because of that the HID standard has been split into multiple usage tables. Standard keys on keyboards use table 7 and in Windows codes from this table are immediately captured by HID keyboard filter driver and are converted into key presses. On the other hand keys like multimedia keys are defined in usage table 12. Codes from this table are not captured by the Windows. Only a few of them are natively supported (like volume, mute, play, pause etc). Flirc GUI and CLI util provide the ability to map only a few of the keys from table 12. Those keys when mapped are not recognized by AHK or EG when used with keyboard input plugins. This gave me an idea to do some experiments. I needed to find out how these multimedia keys are stored in the Flirc which can be checked by inspecting saved config file. After that I checked if I can assign any HID code from the table 12 and I was successful. I've found out that there is a key code which acts as a marker for Flirc to send usage 12 instead o 7. When this marker is found then the actual HID key ID is stored as a modifier. It is possible to use flirc_util to map almost any code from table 12: flirc_util.exe record_api 176 102 where 176 is decimal value of key ID (Play key in this case) and 102 is a marker that tells Flirc that this is key from table 12. Table 12 has more than 256 keys defined but unfortunately Flirc can only hold a single byte value so there is still a restriction in the number of keys. There are also holes in the list of keys in this table which I've used in my own config so I don't have any conflicts with other hardware and software. These are the usable values: 4-31, 34-47, 55-63, 73-95, 103-127, 159, 165-175. There are probably more but I've stopped looking other codes that are not mentioned by the standard. I think that other keys that are in the standard are also usable. Most of them are not natively supported by the Windows but I used these ranges in my case to be on the safe side. The way to record these keys is to change the first value to one in these ranges and record a button to them incrementally. In my setup I've used EventGhost to capture HID events and map them to things I want them to do. It provides some nice features like programmable on screen menus and many plugins for specific apps like XBMC (it uses XBMC RPC API). To capture events from HID device a Generic HID plugin must be used. Unfortunately there is a small problem with this plugin and it sometimes sends multiple HID events on single button press (this is not the same problem as with repeated keys). I have a modifier Generic HID plugin that works very well with Flirc in this mode of operation. I can share it if there is a demand for it. I can also extend the how-to to some basic EG configuration. I haven't used AHK but I know that there is also a way to capture HID events in it and use them to control things. All the numbers I'm referring to are taken from this document http://www.freebsddiary.org/APC/usb_hid_usages.php

Actually, since I'll be tied up most of today, you can give this a shot: https://flirc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200712548 The utility has been updated for windows 10. Very Sincerely, Jason

By "modified Generic HID plugin" I mean that I've copied original Generic HID plugin code, changed its internal ID and name (added a suffix to its name) so both plugin versions can coexist in a single EventGhost install and changed the code so it works better with Flirc sending custom HID codes. The EventGhost differentiates between single events (short events) and enduring ones, which can have extended length. The original HID plugin for EG uses only short events so when you hold down the remote button you get a lot of short events. I've modified the code so HID plugin is generating an enduring event for as long as you keep the button pressed, so you only get a single event but it is active as long as you keep holding the button down. That way you can define repeats and long-press actions in the EventGhost without any problems. You can download the plugin here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/j7ajh7rvoa2qpa9/MyHID.zip?dl=0 Go to the folder where you have EventGhost installed. You'll find plugins folder there. Unpack the downloaded zip to the plugins folder (it should create a MyHID folder). You can compare the __init__.py file with the original plugin code in the plugins\HID folder. There are only a few changes so it's easy to check that there is nothing malicious added in the code (even for non-programmers I think). To use the plugin in EG you need to first restart EG for it to see new plugin. Then you add "Generic HID (mod)" plugin to Autostart folder in your EG config. You need to select Flirc from the device list in the plugin config window. There can be more than one device there so you need to do some testing which one works. You can also enter a prefix into Event prefix text input (I've set it to Flirc). I'm also using Remote event mapper plugin where I map Flirc.Button.X (where X is the HID code) events as Remote.YYYY (where YYYY is given button name like Play, Pause etc). That way I don't need to remember under which HID code I have a specific button mapped in Flirc. The rest of the EG config is very specific to my needs. Of course I use XBMC2 plugin to control Kodi using remote API and also I use Task Create/Switch Events plugin to enable/disable actions groups depending on the app in focus (you don't need that if you want to control Kodi out of focus).

Sweet. And it plays Monsters Inc. :)

farewell, but point is, just add a profile of a device you dont have in your HTPC setup, and as the author JASON suggested, i too, strongly suggest you add a TV profile, example either a Panasonic TC-P65VT30 or SAMSUNG LN46C650L1F!! i tested both of these TV profile and they work %100!! No repeat key issues and if you hold down left or right arrow, it'll scroll fast!! then using the HARMONY software or MyHarmony.com just make sure to not leave buttons un'asssigned on which ever profile you use becuz if u do, those un'assigned buttons wont be map'able using FLIRC's GUI! So dont go crazy here, the point is simply to assign actions to buttons on your remote,, which action it is and on which buttons its assigned FLIRC doesnt care! Like i said, your official map'ing will be done using FLIRC's GUI anyways! and also, make sure to not assign the same action twice here!! So use different actions for each buttons! this will prevent the famous 'Button already exists' error from showing up when you'll configure your harmony using FLIRC's GUI! give it a shoti! :)