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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Use volume keys on Media Keys controller in the GUI.
  2. 1 point
    Sorry, I've never used one. Just search for some IrDA USB dongle/adapter. Just make sure it's for data connection, not something for remote control which was improperly named IrDA, as that's totally different hardware.
  3. 1 point
    To erase you need to press a button on the remote which was previously recorded, not a button in the Flirc GUI.
  4. 1 point
    One of the main features of the Flirc RPi case (besides awesome looks :)) is that it also acts as a heat sink for the CPU. There's no way to do that with the HAT, as it covers the CPU. Some time ago some user removed the plastic cover on top of the case (it's easily detachable) and cut a hole with a dremmel right above the GPIO port and built a GPIO extension which raised the GPIO port high enough that the HAT could be placed on top of the Flirc case. Then he 3d printed the case for the HAT which attached to the top of the case (in place of the original plastic cover). I've started doing the same but I didn't bother with making a makeshift GPIO extension but I've found a 40-pin goldpin female header with long male pins on the other end, which is more than enough to raise the port on its own. What I would like to see is the GPIO hole already done at the factory and ability to download a 3d model of replacement cover to print out. It could then be adapted to whatever HAT someone would like to use with the case. Here's the extender: And how it looks in the case when mounted on the RPi 3:
  5. 1 point
    Good idea with the clear button. It's already done and probably will be in the next release.
  6. 1 point
    For Home button, you can try to use Home button from Fire TV controller in the Flirc GUI. Fire TV also uses Android so it should also work with MiBox. For Volume control use volume buttons on Media keys controller in the Flirc GUI.
  7. 1 point
    I've just tested on a Flirc v1 and seems to be working. The wake/suspend key from the Media Keys controller is only able to suspend the computer though. The WAKE key from the Full keyboard controller wakes the computer properly. Make sure you have the Sleep detection enabled in advanced options in Flirc GUI. Also check the Power tab on each USB keyboard device in Device Manager and make sure that they all are allowed to wake your PC.
  8. 1 point
    It seems the website is down and I'm unable to find a mirror for the W10 download exe. Is this available anywhere?
  9. 1 point
    self reply: issue solved - Upgraded the Flirc SE firmware to the latest available for gen1: v39 - Re-recorded the Wake key (Harmony is programmed to send "FLIRC > AspectRatio" as the power-on command. made sure that "sleep_detect" is activated. It just worked; turning off other Activities like Netflix will no longer cause the HTPC/Flirc to wake up. Before, I had v37 and it seems sleep_detect wasn't working.
  10. 1 point
    For anyone else looking for the answer to the sleep wake on usb question the answer is here
  11. 1 point
    @orion just edit the /etc/apt/sources.list and replace debian with ubuntu and buster with with xenial in the Flirc repo address. Then run apt-get update and apt-get install flirc again.
  12. 1 point
    Hello all. I had a peculiar issue where my Flirc was receiving a continuous button press. It was like somebody was holding down the up button on my remote. I believe the culprit was my phone's proximity sensor, which is IR based technology. I started testing things in the usual way. I cleared my configuration, switched ports, reinstalled, made sure my firmware was upgraded.. but nothing was working. The only thing that could stop the button input was when I covered the device with my hand. I then thought that maybe I had a faulty remote with a button stuck down, so I removed all of the batteries from my remotes and Flirc was still receiving a signal. I was absolutely puzzled. A couple hours later I picked up my phone, walked away, and the button pressing stopped! I set my phone back on top of my computer and the button presses started up again. I finally figured it out! =D When my phone is within 6 inches of the Flirc it registers a button press. My Flirc is plugged into the USB ports on the top of my case and my phone was resting directly next to it. My phone is a Pixel 2 so I hopped online, did some research and found that the proximity sensor in the phone is IR based. The good news is that the IR interference only happens when my phone is inches away from the device. Keep in mind that your mileage may vary though. I just wanted to share this in case someone else is searching the forums for a related issue.
  13. 1 point
    Flirc SE is a gen1 device.
  14. 1 point
    Hello all, I just recently purchased a Flirc, a device I have had my eye on for a very long time, and so far I am very happy with it. It is currently connected to my Windows 10 HTPC running Plex. I wanted to share a small AHK script which will do three things to prevent me from having to grab the PC keyboard when plex is closed/minimized, the volume is muted, or I want to minimize plex when using Netflix (TV App). Launch plex if it is not already running, maximize it, then full screen it if needed (Record button on remote > CTRL+SHIFT+F1) Note: You may need to update the plex directory if yours is not "C:\Program Files\Plex\Plex Media Player\PlexMediaPlayer.exe" Unmute and set the volume 100% (Volume Up on remote > CTRL+SHIFT+F2) Minimize Plex to prevent the button pushes in Netflix from doing things in Plex (Netflix button on remote > CTRL+SHIFT+F3) I hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions! Cheers, Ned FlircAssistant.ahk
  15. 1 point
    Hi, Flirc basically works like a keyboard. You teach it by selecting a keyboard key or key combination (with modifiers) and assign it to a button on a remote, by pressing the button. It should work with most remotes but some may cause problems. Flirc is "tuned" to remotes which use 38 kHz carrier frequency. This frequency is used by most consumer appliances' remotes. It won't work properly with remotes which use frequencies too far from that, like some MCE remotes working at 50-something kHz for example. Also there are many different IR protocols. Some work better than others and some may be unusable. For example many settop boxes (like cable boxes) use strange proprietary protocols that don't work well with Flirc. I think the best solution is to look for a universal remote that lay good in your hand. You can then switch device profiles and test which works best for you. My personal preference is to use a device profile which uses one of the NEC family protocols (preferably NECx1 or NECx2). For example LG uses NEC protocols (NEC1 for TVs, NECx1 for soundbars/sound systems). Also Samsung uses NEC for some TVs. I don't know what Panasonic uses but @jason also recommends that brand. I don't recommend Philips or MCE as these are RC5/RC6 based. These protocols have toggle bit that changes on each key press. This means you'd need to record each remote button twice. I'm using AllForOne Simple 4 remote (URC-6440). It's really nice universal remote and the price is really good. It's 4-device by default, but there's a possibility to upgrade it to 12-device one using custom firmware (really easy to install and fully reversible). The custom firmware also adds a lot of features. There's also a community developed PC software (for Windows, Mac and Linux!) that allows you to configure the remote whatever you want (the remote has microUSB port to connect to PC). If you can learn something about this and other remotes from the same manufacturer, you can go to http://hifi-remote.com/forums/. It's a community forum focused on providing support and extra features for this remotes. You can also go the Logitech Harmony way. There're even ready to use Flirc profiles in the Harmony software which are supported by Flirc without any programming. They do not give you 100% of functionality out of a box. Rather something like a quick start. I don't have Harmony so I can't tell you much about them.
  16. 1 point
    The basics of how it all works, just in case: Start with the Harmony config since this seems to be tripping you up. You only need to pick one device for your Shield profile, and (ironically enough) you don't want to pick "Shield TV" WITH the Harmony since that profile is for models that have IR (or WiFi/BT if you have the Harmony hub) and you don't want that since you are using a FLIRC. Just pick something that has a lot of buttons available (for flexibility) and won't interfere with any other devices you have. A lot of us here us the ViewTV AT-163 profile. Pick it and name it whatever you want, like "Shield TV" :) Now your Harmony is programmed to send IR signals for all (or at least most) of it's buttons. *It doesn't matter what those signals are* as long as they are each unique and don't accidentally trigger other equipment (which is why the AT-163 is a good choice....unless of course you have one :) ). All that matters is that when you press a button, a unique IR command is blasted out. The FLIRC will do the rest. Now, the FLIRC. The FLIRC dongle takes those discreet IR signals and translates them to commands the Shield TV understands. When you program the FLIRC via its application and assign IR commands to buttons you want to make sure you use the Shield layout first, for the basics, because Jason updated the software with the correct commands the Shield needs. Specifically, the "ok" button now functions correctly cross-app. So choose that profile and manually (don't click "Go" and have it do it automatically, that will map some commands you want for Kodi later twice) click each button, then press the corresponding button on your Harmony remote to map it. Basically, the 4 directions, the "ok" button, the back button, and the home button. Pick the buttons on your Harmony you want to do those functions (should be obvious) and have at it. Once you've done that, bring up the Kodi layout. Now you can program buttons for things like Play, Pause, ff/rw, etc. If you want even more control, skip the Kodi layout and use the full keyboard layout instead. Pull up (or print) this page for reference: http://kodi.wiki/view/Keyboard_controls . That's a complete list of keyboard shortcuts for Kodi. You can assign buttons to whatever keys on the keyboard you want. Don't forget that with most Harmony's you can also create custom buttons if you want to map advanced stuff, like for subtitles. Again, it doesn't matter what IR commands are assigned to the Harmony for each button, as long as it is discreet! The FLIRC is going to take whatever IR signal you sent it and translate that to the correct keyboard command. Doing this will give you: Basic Shield remote functionality across all applications (except voice control, since there's no mic on the Harmony.) Advanced keymap control for apps that support full keyboard commands - like Kodi. Get it?
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