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  1. No. But you can imagine how hard it's been with the virus. Everyone is at home. My supply chain is constrained, and I have to do everything myself.
    3 points
  2. Please download the attached zip file and unpack it in one of the following directories, depending on your OS. If the path doesn't exist, you need to create missing directories. Windows: C:/Users/<your user name>/AppData/Local/Flirc/keyboards OS X: /Users/<your user name>/Library/Preferences/Flirc/keyboards Linux: /home/<your user name>/.config/Flirc/keyboards These are standard paths. If you've customised your OS by changing your home directory location, they may be different. After unpacking the file, restart the Flirc GUI. You should see a Nume
    2 points
  3. UPDATE What else I tried: inserted the OTG cable directly in the Cube and tested with a keyboard, then a mouse, to see if the USB interface works; using the keys or moving the mouse I tried to move something on the screen. No luck. Today, I got the SMAYS (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08D6H7Y85/) from Amazon and - after feverishly inserting both Flirc and network cable in it, it works, I can now use my Harmony to move around the Cube. So, the only conclusion is that there is a problem with the Amazon-provided dongle. Inserting the OTG cable directly into the Cube is not a proper test
    1 point
  4. I figured out what I was doing wrong. I reprogrammed the firc and set the power button to be powertoggle. Now my activities work great.
    1 point
  5. Okay, it was totally my fault. I used bad batteries in both remotes. Now everything works. Please delete this thread.
    1 point
  6. I'm setting up Flicr to be used with a TiVo Stream 4k and aside from trial and error what is the best way to identify the keyboard shortcuts for the buttons on the remote? It would be nice to have a predefined controller in the configuration app. Buttons i have not found a mapping for include Info, Skip, Live, Netflix and others. Thanks
    1 point
  7. 185F? It really depends on what it's doing. As long as it's not going full throttle, otherwise, no case is going to work.
    1 point
  8. Thanks Tim, It didn't work for me with the original config-file of this topic but your's is working perfectly :-)
    1 point
  9. Thank you Tim for your config file, it works perfectly.
    1 point
  10. Just received the replacement - firmware updated, keys recorded and it just functions perfectly! Thank you so much! Greetings from Germany
    1 point
  11. It's not the CLI that needed to be updated, but the firmware No guarantee this will break something else. I've updated the report ID so that you can go as high as 255. Try it and let me know. dori.release-4.9.4.bin nemo.release-4.9.4.bin
    1 point
  12. I don't know what the hell is wrong with windows. I'm sorry. There are no viruses. It's crazy. It doesn't say what it is, it's erroneous.
    1 point
  13. It's done, packaging is done, I just have to pull the trigger. But the pandemic has been killing me. Every day, I'm slammed. I'm going to try and kick it off this week.
    1 point
  14. Hello, updated to the lastest firmware and with the V2 Flirc, I can't manage to send IR sequences from the dongle ? Please, could you help me to assign a keystroke to an IR emission ? Thanks in advance
    1 point
  15. Thanks Torq1337. I had to revisit this and noticed the page has possibly moved. Can someone guide me to the updated instructions/page on how to use the flirc ir trasmitter? Thanks in advance?
    1 point
  16. Sure, no problem. First of all, just for future reference, the FLIRC command-line utility has built-in reference for all commands it supports. To view a list of all supported commands, use the "help" command: flirc_util.exe help Please note that I am on Windows, hence the ".exe" part. You may not need it if you are on macOS or Linux. To view reference for a specific command, use the same "help" command, but after it specify the command you need reference for, like this (without the <> brackets): flirc_util.exe help <command> So, when you run: flir
    1 point
  17. I think that would be great - I'd love to see one that allows for HATS to be installed stealthily - modify the design to lower the entire metal area over and between the HAT mounting holes to a lower flat level that still contacts the CPU and USB controller (with slots for camera and display ribbon cables plus the POE header). Given the Pi 4 has such low connectors you would probably not normally need a GPIO riser to fit one. The plastic top would still be level, but could extend down three sides if the 'shelf' makes it too hard to cast. Status displays, TV inputs, UPS batteries would all
    1 point
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