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I'm confident this was the issue. After seeing it, finding the problem, understanding it, I have extremely high confidence. This problem only exists for a small portion of users, and it follows windows as well. Blatant disregard to violate the USB spec. I owe you guys a second unit for your patience and help.

Okay guys, I think I figured it out. I pushed an update, GUI version v2.3.8 which has new firmware in it. So confident, I made it public, however, this may in fact just fix @Montas system. But I'm fairly confident. Seems to be a windows only thing, they send a set remote wake up feature request down to the device, in which case I would send a stall/nack. Windows said, 'oh yeah, fuck you' and then disconnected me. I'm now returning OK. This is not a required feature, apparently windows 10 says it is. Please don't leave me hanging if it works, please report back here and let me know. This was both brutal in finding, repeating, and solving.

I've got the other system up and running @Montas suggested and I've reproduced it. I'm furiously trying to find a remedy and won't stop until I do.

In case anybody is interested, I have figured out how to turn off the Shield TV with Harmony 650+Flirc (or more precisely, put the Shield TV to sleep.) Yes, I'm THAT OCD about keeping my power bill down (not to mention keeping my house cooler in Phoenix summers.) What you'll want to do is tell your Harmony that in fact you do want to control the power of your Shield TV, and then set the Flirc to recognize your profile's power off button. Different profiles have different defaults in this regard, and I know people use different ones, so I'm just going to tell you how I configured mine: 1. I used DanVM's instructions (found here), only I used Flirc XBMC profile (when I chose it, MyHarmony called it Flirc Kodi) as my beginning template and renamed it to Shield TV. 2. In the MyHarmony application, Under Devices > Change Device Settings > Power Settings > Next > I want to turn off this device when not in use. > I press the same button for on and for off > Next > +Add Command > Under the dropdown menu, select PowerOff > Leave everything else default and click Finish 3. Open the Flirc application > Controllers > Media Keys > click the power icon button. 4. On your Harmony remote's LCD screen buttons, go to Devices > Shield TV (or whatever you named it) > Power Off. (If your flirc application says 'Recorded Successfully', then it worked, even if it suspended your PC.) Done! Connect your Flirc to your Shield TV and your harmony remote should turn it off as expected. Ideally, somebody could pester logitech (I don't know how to contact them) to add a Flirc + Shield TV profile that effectively does everything I mentioned above. Here are some things that I wish we could have but probably can't ever have: - Universal 8 second back / 30 second forward buttons that don't bring up the playbar overlay - Universal subtitle toggle button (for those moments when you're not quite sure what the person is saying) - A way to use voice search without having to reach for the Shield TV stick remote (By universal, I mean works on every app) One can only dream, I suppose. Nonetheless, this works really well, and I have to say that the Shield TV is the best STB I've ever owned (you really can have it all with this thing; netflix, amazon, youtube, plex, kodi, hbo, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD, emulators, all on a very speedy UI) and Flirc makes it even better.

The basics of how it all works, just in case: Start with the Harmony config since this seems to be tripping you up. You only need to pick one device for your Shield profile, and (ironically enough) you don't want to pick "Shield TV" WITH the Harmony since that profile is for models that have IR (or WiFi/BT if you have the Harmony hub) and you don't want that since you are using a FLIRC. Just pick something that has a lot of buttons available (for flexibility) and won't interfere with any other devices you have. A lot of us here us the ViewTV AT-163 profile. Pick it and name it whatever you want, like "Shield TV" :) Now your Harmony is programmed to send IR signals for all (or at least most) of it's buttons. *It doesn't matter what those signals are* as long as they are each unique and don't accidentally trigger other equipment (which is why the AT-163 is a good choice....unless of course you have one :) ). All that matters is that when you press a button, a unique IR command is blasted out. The FLIRC will do the rest. Now, the FLIRC. The FLIRC dongle takes those discreet IR signals and translates them to commands the Shield TV understands. When you program the FLIRC via its application and assign IR commands to buttons you want to make sure you use the Shield layout first, for the basics, because Jason updated the software with the correct commands the Shield needs. Specifically, the "ok" button now functions correctly cross-app. So choose that profile and manually (don't click "Go" and have it do it automatically, that will map some commands you want for Kodi later twice) click each button, then press the corresponding button on your Harmony remote to map it. Basically, the 4 directions, the "ok" button, the back button, and the home button. Pick the buttons on your Harmony you want to do those functions (should be obvious) and have at it. Once you've done that, bring up the Kodi layout. Now you can program buttons for things like Play, Pause, ff/rw, etc. If you want even more control, skip the Kodi layout and use the full keyboard layout instead. Pull up (or print) this page for reference: http://kodi.wiki/view/Keyboard_controls . That's a complete list of keyboard shortcuts for Kodi. You can assign buttons to whatever keys on the keyboard you want. Don't forget that with most Harmony's you can also create custom buttons if you want to map advanced stuff, like for subtitles. Again, it doesn't matter what IR commands are assigned to the Harmony for each button, as long as it is discreet! The FLIRC is going to take whatever IR signal you sent it and translate that to the correct keyboard command. Doing this will give you: Basic Shield remote functionality across all applications (except voice control, since there's no mic on the Harmony.) Advanced keymap control for apps that support full keyboard commands - like Kodi. Get it?

If you have to ask, you more than likely don't need it. It's just the extension for packages used by Debian, and it's various forks. ( Ubuntu, Linux Mint, etc)

I added the apt repo per the Debian instructions at https://flirc.tv/ubuntu-software-installation-guide to my Ubuntu 16.04 system. Trying to run 'apt update' gives me the following error: Err:10 http://apt.flirc.tv/arch/x64 binary/ Release 404 Not Found E: The repository 'http://apt.flirc.tv/arch/x64 binary/ Release' does not have a Release file. N: Updating from such a repository can't be done securely, and is therefore disabled by default. N: See apt-secure(8) manpage for repository creation and user configuration details. I don't mean to be an ass but it shouldn't be 2-3 days of effort to properly set up an apt repo. https://blog.packagecloud.io/eng/2015/08/04/apt-repository-internals/

Look at this post: It's not officially released yet, but you can use Upgrade Firmware in the Flirc GUI to flash these. To know which model you have (either nemo or dori) you can go to Advanced in Flirc GUI when Flirc is connected and you should see something like SKU: Flirc 2.0 [nemo] for example.

You could be right, looks like that's a setting on the shield too.

I'm going to make this public soon. Flirc IR Documentation.pdf

@dharrah the remote seems to be programmable. When you switch to one of the non-DirecTV modes you should be able to reprogram the remote to use with different manufacturers and models. You should've got instructions and setup codes in some kind of user manual with the remote. Try programming different setup codes in different modes to find one that works best for you. If you don't have your user manual, then you can download this one: https://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/Remote_Controls/DIRECTVRC64forWeb.pdf If you don't have a Samsung TV then first try Samsung TV codes. If you have a Samsung TV then try an LG for example. Also Panasonic TV codes are said to be working well with Flirc.

Hi, Flirc basically works like a keyboard. You teach it by selecting a keyboard key or key combination (with modifiers) and assign it to a button on a remote, by pressing the button. It should work with most remotes but some may cause problems. Flirc is "tuned" to remotes which use 38 kHz carrier frequency. This frequency is used by most consumer appliances' remotes. It won't work properly with remotes which use frequencies too far from that, like some MCE remotes working at 50-something kHz for example. Also there are many different IR protocols. Some work better than others and some may be unusable. For example many settop boxes (like cable boxes) use strange proprietary protocols that don't work well with Flirc. I think the best solution is to look for a universal remote that lay good in your hand. You can then switch device profiles and test which works best for you. My personal preference is to use a device profile which uses one of the NEC family protocols (preferably NECx1 or NECx2). For example LG uses NEC protocols (NEC1 for TVs, NECx1 for soundbars/sound systems). Also Samsung uses NEC for some TVs. I don't know what Panasonic uses but @jason also recommends that brand. I don't recommend Philips or MCE as these are RC5/RC6 based. These protocols have toggle bit that changes on each key press. This means you'd need to record each remote button twice. I'm using AllForOne Simple 4 remote (URC-6440). It's really nice universal remote and the price is really good. It's 4-device by default, but there's a possibility to upgrade it to 12-device one using custom firmware (really easy to install and fully reversible). The custom firmware also adds a lot of features. There's also a community developed PC software (for Windows, Mac and Linux!) that allows you to configure the remote whatever you want (the remote has microUSB port to connect to PC). If you can learn something about this and other remotes from the same manufacturer, you can go to http://hifi-remote.com/forums/. It's a community forum focused on providing support and extra features for this remotes. You can also go the Logitech Harmony way. There're even ready to use Flirc profiles in the Harmony software which are supported by Flirc without any programming. They do not give you 100% of functionality out of a box. Rather something like a quick start. I don't have Harmony so I can't tell you much about them.

I owe you guys the thank you. And endless amount of gratitude for your patience and support.

Ok, i can write you all settings or i can send you a TrueImage image with my exact system. I think it will be around 30-40GB. I have enough space in Google Drive but i need few days for imaging and upload. Bios setting are default except "Wake from USB Keyboard/Remote" ENABLED Tell me which you prefer. PS: there's one problem...it's all in Italian language :) I could reinstall in English if you really really really need. Bye

I also noticed this issue. I hold the D-pad direction (usually down as it's easiest) for 2-3 seconds and it wakes up. Now I didn't think of it but I also have a USB hub in place, was a purpose to connect a wireless mouse and testing a thumb drive. But I never removed it. It's still behind the box so didn't use it to extend sight. I'll have to try my down trick without the USB hub.

Ordered all the components. Hopefully I can reproduce this on site. Expect an update about one week from today, everything arrives early next week. @Montas please send me all the details you can. Windows 10 64 professional? Any settings after a format? Can you save your BIOS config and post here? Send me a picture of all your peripherals, if possible. What USB connectors is everything plugged into? Did you install any software after a fresh install? Any settings after fresh install? How do you put your computer to sleep/suspend? How long does it take for sleep to cause this? Is there any difference between putting the pc to sleep, waiting for hibernation, and just going to hibernation? I'll add more if I think of anything.

Okay, great news, I'll order everything for it today.

Please keep us all updated - i have a new HTPC thats been sitting unused for 5 months waiting for this one last fix. Bought the FLIRC for the advertised wake function and really don't want to look into returning it and using MCE receivers again.

Unfortunately no, I don't have any more. However, I'm not going to give up. I've just been swamped and I'm going to get back to this very shortly. It's not an option for me to not solve this. I will solve it.

Just wanted to chime in here. That Samsung remote will send IR codes dependent on the device listing with the television. When setting up my Sony Soundbar, when using the Power Test..and choosing the second option, the directional pad + center button would work. Back button would not. When I reran the Power Test, and used the THIRD option..which also worked for my Soundbar, all buttons would transmit in IR.

Hey I created an account just to respond here. Has Amazon gotten back to you on the long press problem? I love FLIRC. I use my Harmony 650 with FLIRC and Amazon Fire TV and everything works great EXCEPT the long press for Home or Menu buttons, which makes the functionality for the FireTV and Playstation Vue a little less than ideal. Thanks!

I have a MacBook and a silver Apple TV remote. I wanted to use this remote the same way with my MacBook that it would work on a MacMini. I just got a Flirc receiver and tried setting it up, but I don't see a controller profile (or even a combination of profiles) that will make my Apple remote act the same way as it would on a MacMini. Is this possible? I'm also running EyeTV 3 and want the Apple remote to act the same way it would on the MacMini with EyeTV. However, besides the volume buttons, none of the other buttons act the same way. In particular, the left and right arrow seem to work inconsistently... sometimes it changes the channel other times it skips to live or rewinds. The way it works on the MacMini is that a simple press of the left/right arrow cycles through the channels and a long press goes to live or rewinds. I also cannot reliably navigate the EyeTV menu with the remote. Is there a trick to get this to work. I tried searching for something but only see XMBC + EyeTV instructions which isn't what I was looking for. Thanks!

This is probably unsupported in any way by Jason so please don't report bugs in other threads when using this solution. If you have any problems with this setup it is better to post them here and I'll try to help if I have time to do so. Hi, This how-to is for users who want to build more advanced control schemes using their Flirc devices. It is mainly directed to Windows users because there is no way in Windows to capture input from a single keyboard, but can be done in Linux. But it should be also applicable in other OS-es when used with correct software. The problem is that not everything can be done just by defining a single key combinations. There are applications like AutoHotKey (AHK) or EventGhost (EG) that can capture specific key combinations but there is a problem. Having many buttons on the mapped remote it is sometimes hard to find key combinations that are not used as OS or other apps shortcuts already. By capturing the specific key combination in AHK or EG user basically blocks this combination even on a normal keyboard connected to the PC (as there is no way in Windows to capture only input from one specific keyboard). Here comes HID standard for the rescue. HID keyboards are just one of the many usages of this standard. Because of that the HID standard has been split into multiple usage tables. Standard keys on keyboards use table 7 and in Windows codes from this table are immediately captured by HID keyboard filter driver and are converted into key presses. On the other hand keys like multimedia keys are defined in usage table 12. Codes from this table are not captured by the Windows. Only a few of them are natively supported (like volume, mute, play, pause etc). Flirc GUI and CLI util provide the ability to map only a few of the keys from table 12. Those keys when mapped are not recognized by AHK or EG when used with keyboard input plugins. This gave me an idea to do some experiments. I needed to find out how these multimedia keys are stored in the Flirc which can be checked by inspecting saved config file. After that I checked if I can assign any HID code from the table 12 and I was successful. I've found out that there is a key code which acts as a marker for Flirc to send usage 12 instead o 7. When this marker is found then the actual HID key ID is stored as a modifier. It is possible to use flirc_util to map almost any code from table 12: flirc_util.exe record_api 176 102 where 176 is decimal value of key ID (Play key in this case) and 102 is a marker that tells Flirc that this is key from table 12. Table 12 has more than 256 keys defined but unfortunately Flirc can only hold a single byte value so there is still a restriction in the number of keys. There are also holes in the list of keys in this table which I've used in my own config so I don't have any conflicts with other hardware and software. These are the usable values: 4-31, 34-47, 55-63, 73-95, 103-127, 159, 165-175. There are probably more but I've stopped looking other codes that are not mentioned by the standard. I think that other keys that are in the standard are also usable. Most of them are not natively supported by the Windows but I used these ranges in my case to be on the safe side. The way to record these keys is to change the first value to one in these ranges and record a button to them incrementally. In my setup I've used EventGhost to capture HID events and map them to things I want them to do. It provides some nice features like programmable on screen menus and many plugins for specific apps like XBMC (it uses XBMC RPC API). To capture events from HID device a Generic HID plugin must be used. Unfortunately there is a small problem with this plugin and it sometimes sends multiple HID events on single button press (this is not the same problem as with repeated keys). I have a modifier Generic HID plugin that works very well with Flirc in this mode of operation. I can share it if there is a demand for it. I can also extend the how-to to some basic EG configuration. I haven't used AHK but I know that there is also a way to capture HID events in it and use them to control things. All the numbers I'm referring to are taken from this document http://www.freebsddiary.org/APC/usb_hid_usages.php

OK. I was able to get it working by right clicking the Flirc device in the Device Manager and select Update Driver Software. Then select Browse My Computer and point it to Program Files (x86) > Flirc > Driver > usb_driver All working good now.

The Flirc has some great features and *can* be relatively easy to use. However, without documentation of any kind, I must start actively recommending fellow hardware users in various hardware forums I participate in to avoid purchasing the Flirc (I have been actively pushing the Flirc for various devices for over a year up to this point). I can't understand how anyone can release hardware of this potentially advanced nature without any documentation whatsoever. Even as a one man shop, documentation should be of the highest priority in any hardware and software released for public consumption. Take the command line utility flirc_util.exe. It seems to be very powerful and is often given as the cryptic answer for various issues all over this forum. Cryptic is the key: without documentation, how is anyone supposed to guess at its actual workings? A perfect example is the record_api fucntion.. I've seen 10's of threads asking how to record the "menu" key for various hardware. The answer is often given as use flirc_util's record_api fuction. Wonderful that the developer has created such a utility that can solve those kinds of issues, but without documentation it is limited to his own use and a cabal of a few other advanced users only. I'm not trying to bash the Flirc in any way... I see it as a wonderful piece of hardware with great potential and easy use for limited applications. I am a realist, however, and the conclusion of that realism is: without documentation the Flirc is more of a potentially frustrating curiosity than an actual tool for many people. Please document both the GUI and, most important, the command line utility for those that actually need to go beyond an extremely simple setup. Thank you.