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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/27/2022 in all areas

  1. Sorry for being quiet. We've made progress, can reproduce the issue, and are working on trying some solutions. Big shout out to Michael (Misha) who was two steps ahead of us and did incredible finding nuggets of information scattered on the internet. Seems like a number of applications, virus programs, system apps, Steam (yes, fucking steam), changes a field in the system registry for every USB HID Device's "restricted" boolean from "false" to "true". Why? No idea. Uninstalling the application does not revert the registry change, which validates what some of you experienced. Steam can install advanced drivers to help support controllers like XBOX-360, and this is what changes the field for that specific app. We are trying to create a version of the app that detects this, and updates the field. But this is not so simple. UWP apps don't have permission, and we have to do a run-around. But this seems possible, and the path of least resistance. We have some other ideas, but this seems like the best approach. Un. Fucking. Believable.
    4 points
  2. I've googled this problem, and there is no single solution. From rolling back drivers, to new cables, disabling to re-enabling the device. It's all over the place. My favorite is: "I fixed it!", and then I can only imagine microsoft killed them because there is no fucking follow-up.
    2 points
  3. Pretty much this. Almost every brand reuses codes over and over again. Because this picking of group codes is clearly uncomfortable for a lot of people, we're looking into solutions to match specifically with exact models.
    1 point
  4. I’ll take a look. I’ll be out most of today but should have something to say about it tomorrow.
    1 point
  5. The interkey / inter-action delay doesn't appear to do anything. Specifically, I have the power on and off sequences set to turn on/off my TV, Satellite Receiver, and Sound System (i.e. three button presses). However, the remote outputs the key-presses one after another with zero noticeable delay in between. This is evidenced by the fact that if you look at the front of the remote with your phone camera, you can see the IR light flashing. It sends out a bunch of pulses, that last maybe half a second in total, right at the start, then nothing, even after several seconds. It's pretty random which of the three devices turns on and off. If I set the Delay slider to 4s, 6s, 8s, etc it makes no difference. Nothing is output after that first burst in the first second. I would have expected that if the Delay was set to X Seconds on the first and second action, it would send the TV Power On command, wait X seconds, send the Sat Receiver Power On command, wait X seconds, then send the Sound System Power on. But this definitely isn't happening. Settings Export attached. Front Room.skip
    1 point
  6. Just wanted to add some positive feedback I just updated to the latest version on Win 11 (Build 22623), I run as a non-admin user and it's working great. I have a couple of activities setup and the sync to the remote every time. I have a device issue, but have started a new thread! Great work so far :)
    1 point
  7. This is an ongoing problem with the app on both Windows 10 and 11, not everyone experiences it but some of us do. @jason has been working on it, you can check the thread here for more info.
    1 point
  8. Plugging in while holding down the boot button boots up a DFU device at [1d50:6017]. This step likely confuses many folks that you need to boot into DFU update mode at [1d50:6017]. dfu-util -l gives: Found DFU: [1d50:6017] ver=0200, devnum=17, cfg=1, intf=0, path="1-2", alt=0, name="@Internal Flash /0x00000000/1*008Ka,15*008Kg", serial="DEMO" Then on to programming blackmagic.bin from blackmagic_fw folder. Used command line dfu-util.exe --device ,1d50:6017 -s 0x00002000:leave -D blackmagic.bin, which gives: Warning: Invalid DFU suffix signature A valid DFU suffix will be required in a future dfu-util release Opening DFU capable USB device... Device ID 1d50:6017 Device DFU version 011a Claiming USB DFU Interface... Setting Alternate Interface #0 ... Determining device status... DFU state(2) = dfuIDLE, status(0) = No error condition is present DFU mode device DFU version 011a Device returned transfer size 4096 DfuSe interface name: "Internal Flash " Downloading element to address = 0x00002000, size = 114528 Erase [=========================] 100% 114528 bytes Erase done. Download [=========================] 100% 114528 bytes Download done. File downloaded successfully Submitting leave request... Transitioning to dfuMANIFEST state Looking good so far, so I'll try testing and report back. George
    1 point
  9. Wont take a month, please PM @NathanWe'll get it out.
    1 point
  10. I believe shipping is currently paused due to the issues with the app on Windows. Once Jason's got that fixed in the app I think he's going to resume the shipments, if I'm not mistaken.
    1 point
  11. I think I have something that should fix this.
    1 point
  12. 5276 does appear to stay connected - it tries to update right away but just X'ing out clears that. Prior tests on this new profile(s) would have been using whatever build is the one linked on the website. Trying my damndest to do the weirdest possible unplug/plug-in, always goes back to connected. Going to try re-joining domain, see if that "broken" profile works with that build, post-ASUS uninstall.
    1 point
  13. Another idea. Create a new account. Print running processes. Cause it to fail (unplug/plug). Print processes again. Diff
    1 point
  14. Just tried this, but same issue present for me. Note that I haven't uninstalled Armoury Crate/ASUS stuff, so possibly the winning combination is uninstalling that and then creating a new admin account?
    1 point
  15. Just tossing my results in here for information's sake:
    1 point
  16. Let's try this. Take a can of gasoline, carefully pour it on the computer, light it on fire, and call a priest, because the fucking thing must be possessed by the devil.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. No problem and really thanks so much for the help and patience to you and to all.
    1 point
  19. Okay, this is a bit of a process, and I'll describe what we've done. We've taken windows demo USB apps and we've wrapped our device into it so that we can use their code and framework to see if we can open the remote using their code. There are two approaches windows takes, HID and USB devices. We made an app for each. I could not sign their app using their certificate so what we are asking is for you to do the following for each of the apps: HID Download the app here Unzip and run `Install.ps1` (This installs a self signed certificate for the app) If successful, you should be able to run CustomHidDeviceAccess_1.0.0.0_x86_x64_arm_Debug.appxbundle by double clicking You should see a box, 'Select a Hid Device'. If you see our device in there, select and click `connect`. If connected successfully, you will see some text at the bottom of the window that says, "Currently connected to: \\...." If it failed, it should give us an error code, please let us know what that is. USB Download the app here Unzip and run `Install.ps1` (This installs a self signed certificate for the app) If successful, you should be able to run CustomUsbDeviceAccess_1.0.4.0_x86_x64_arm_Debug.appxbundle by double clicking You should see a box, 'Select a USB Device'. If you see our device in there, select and click `connect`. If connected successfully, you will see some text at the bottom of the window that says, "Currently connected to: \\...." If it failed, it should give us an error code, please let us know what that is. ---- Only one of these apps should list our device, and not the other. I'm sorry for these mundane tasks that feel endless, believe me, I'm trying to push us past this as quickly as possible and may have a lead on a laptop I can purchase to reproduce this.
    1 point
  20. Attached! flirc20230117.log
    1 point
  21. My interpretation is that these feature unlocks extra 4 buttons to use for any task. Currently I'm using the color wheel to change my onkyo receiver's inputs: blueray, game, set-top box. How to do that: follow guide in the app. On right side, there's help video. It involves dragging circles into color wheel.
    1 point
  22. Fair enough, maybe either switch to AA, or over to a rechargeable Li-Ion battery via the USB-C port?
    1 point
  23. First thing, thanks for the help you are giving us. I appreciate it. About the error, we have a theory related to the capabilities in the app manifest. And we have some possible solutions. I would be very grateful if someone could help us test them. I will leave here some versions of the application. I need you to install and open the app, when it fails close it and install the next one. We know some of them won't work, but we want to see the logs they throw. Lastly, please attach the file of logs. Version 5283 - Version 5284 - Version 5285 - Version 5286 - Version 5287 - Version 8288 Note: At the time of this post, the last 2 versions are being generated. The links will be valid in 30 minutes.
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. I just meant I've been able to sync the remote using a non-Win 10 machine. The log from the one that can't sync (Win 10) is attached here. flirc20230115.log
    1 point
  26. Sorry I don't have an answer for you. I just signed up for the forum to report that I'm experiencing the exact same issue, and that I also tried the things you mentioned. I really hope someone can help. It's quite frustrating. Also, in case it's an important piece of information, I'm experiencing this issue on Windows 10, version 21H2, build 19044.2486.
    1 point
  27. Ooof, sorry, MISC, last one. CleanShot 2023-01-14 at 16.53.57.mp4
    1 point
  28. We have a big improvement in the wizard coming for this. I agree, it's not good. Are you only missing your Blue Ray player now?
    1 point
  29. These are definitely in there, not under their specific model. Just search for the brand as the brand uses same codes across models. Any of these will probably work for Roku: This will work for blue ray: Etc. Make sure you have the right category. And if you are not sure, go to Aux, it contains them all.
    1 point
  30. This is a UWP app, so W10+. I'm guessing the W7/8 listing is a hold over from the OTHER stuff that still uses the classic installer(s), e.g. the FLIRC.
    1 point
  31. I just wanted to say thank you for making a great remote!! I've purchased 3(so far) and am extremely impressed. They will be replacing Harmony devices. The one thing that really blew me away was the fact that the Skip 1s was able to power off my 75" Sony TV where the Harmony would not work at all even after learning from the Sony remote. I do have one feature request for SkipApp. Please add a menu to switch between different remote profiles, as in Living Room Remote, Bedroom Remote, Family Room Remote, Office Remote, etc. I'm using it on my Mac Mini M1 and don't see a way to switch at this time.
    1 point
  32. No worries, we'll get this fixed once we sort out the random windows popping up.
    1 point
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