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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/2024 in all areas

  1. Happy Easter. Embedded is v4.12.26 which should has this fixed. The GUI is unstable. We have core libraries updated with a lot of fixes involved. Unfortunately, this was a necessary step, as we were falling behind with react native desktops public stable release. There are things that could be broken, icons, crashes. Etc. But the firmware update should work, and you can revert back to the previous if it's giving you problems. But initial testing seems fine. We just not have tested everything yet. Linux Download Mac Download Windows Download
    4 points
  2. IMG_3189.mov If the attached video doesn't work, here is cloud link: https://share.flirc.io/3196CdTQ This took me about 5 minutes to reproduce of pressing the B button. It is purely timing. If you press a profile button at an exact moment in time, we cause the issue. You do not need to press the profile button in repetition. It can be A/B/C/Color dots at the exact moment after any subsequent button. I confirmed in lab today, in this state, it's stuck and using more power. So you might have pressed this sequence, put the remote down, come back the next day, see it stuck, and it would have had an impact on battery life. This was not the only issue that caused this in this thread. I fixed 3 other edge cases and documented them. I have also replaced a few remotes that were in the first batch of shipments, and completely unrelated. Firmware update coming, it's already solved. Just a matter of getting it into a release and publishing. Let's hope this is the last edge case.
    3 points
  3. I reproduced it and I fucking fixed it. Jesus christ. I'll post a video tomorrow. I swear I sat here for 3 hours with logging pressing buttons until I got it to happen. I analyzed the logs until I saw a pattern, tried it, never got it to happen. But noticed it only happens after pressing a/b/c It's strictly a timing issue. Edge case, and I understand why it can happen, but don't understand why it wont 'unstick'. But I handle these specific buttons in interrupt context. So I changed this. I queue them and move them into my normal task manager and it works fine. I'll push an update as soon as possible. GUI is currently a mess, so we need to clean it up. I'll look at some kinda remedy for everyone this week.
    2 points
  4. Thanks for the video and thanks for the solution. Just wanted to chime in and let you know that everything works on my end now as well :)
    1 point
  5. it didn't work. I switch from "power on" to "power toggle" , for the Pioneer vsx-1021 receiver, and it worked. Thanks for your support.
    1 point
  6. Downloads: SkipApp Tool SkipUpdate for Config Files Description: Thanks for your patience, this was a lot of work. You'll need special versions of software for now. But here is a summary of what you do. Use our app as you would. When you are ready to 'sync', you'll export your configuration with a special process. Enable special export by pressing 'tab' 3 times while in the tools tab Click Export Remote Configuration Save to Disk Open up skipUpdate Tool and load the saved config Sync Here is a video demo and a link if the embedded video doesn't play. CleanShot 2024-04-12 at 19.02.48.mp4
    1 point
  7. The batteries are probably low or at least one of them is low. When this happens to me, I usually find one battery is good and the other is completely drained.
    1 point
  8. You can set input selection on power up, just drag it to the power option. That said, yeah, having this on the activity buttons is much more intuitive design.
    1 point
  9. That's the old way, it's now an option in the app. May well do the same thing.
    1 point
  10. my mistake, my build script got stuck. Should be posted.
    1 point
  11. OH, wow. Yes, I totally missed that. Thank you! And boom...my problem is fixed. So I guess the File menu items serve no purpose.
    1 point
  12. I just love the design of the flirc case but thought it would be impossible to use one together with any of the available NVMe adapter boards for the Raspberry Pi 5. Then I saw this post at the pimoroni forums: https://forums.pimoroni.com/t/nvme-base-flex-cable/24576 Could it be possible to fit that (or any other) NVMe adapter into the Flirc case? Did anyone try? Is it planned to release an updated Flirc case which has room for such an adapter?
    1 point
  13. @asyba @revin can you send me your configurations. I'm working on this.
    1 point
  14. I'm guessing the simplest way to deal with this issue is when we add long press functionality (or whatever we end up doing). Make a quick tap play and a long press of the same button pause. Or vice versa.
    1 point
  15. Yep, you're right on point there and you're certainly not alone in your observations. Sadly, all these users' comments seem to to be in vain. Support hasn't been improved and the software remains confusing and frustrating to use. You'd think that after all the comments from numerous users, the developers would rethink their strategy. But they remain on their path. This kind of behavior you'd only expect from Chinese manufacturers: Good hardware, bad software and an even lesser form of support.
    1 point
  16. I am in a smilar boat. I bought this remote with Flirc USB. So I can plug the Flirc USB in my PC to use/replicate Windows main functions and Kodi. At the same time use my Chromecast Google TV plugged on my TV. But without additional device support (or adding manually) on Skip App (Google TV, Android TV etc.) or even more importantly the external copy/learning function like the other learning remotes (e.g this one) this remote not good use for us. I hope next version of Skip App supports more devices, or even add the learning functionality to the upgraded version of this remote will be make one of the best.
    1 point
  17. Hi all. Just wanted to give back a little. I am testing out my new Google TV Chromecast: https://store.google.com/product/chromecast_google_tv I can confirm that it actually works PERFECTLY with the flirc! I am running with one of these USB C dongles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8Z54M8/ That model isnt available anymore but I am sure it would work with most any other similar dongle. The important thing is that it has the power delivery (PD) port. You are going to want a really good power supply that is rated for high-amps, like the ones meant for the Raspberry Pi 4 as using the included one or a generic one you might having lying around did not work (the device boots to a power error screen): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYQRXTK I have the power supply plugged into the USB C PD port in the dongle, the flirc in one of the usb ports and an Ethernet cable so I can turn off wifi on the CC. I then plug the output into the CC. All is good. For programming, I am running a URC MX-980 remote and use a generic set of IR codes in its database. I programmed the "NVIDIA Shield" buttons which gets me all of the nav control of the included CC remote including u/d/l/r/back/home. I also programmed the "Full Keyboard" which also works well. And "Media Keys" also works so you get play/ff/rw/skip+/skip- which are not on the included remote. I think I found my go-to streaming device! Ernie
    1 point
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