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I ordered mine in December 2022 and still waiting at least have the courtesy to email your customers with an update as you have our email address from when we ordered.

Windows 11, seems that this version is required otherwise mostly get failures on flirc_util --sendir --pattern=...... when using 3.26.0 Updated the software, but found on capture that format has changed (maybe for the better) but where I used to get: 0,8954,4446,581,508,575,1647,578,512,571,1652,573,516,577,1646,579,1644,570,1652,573,1649,575,1647,578,1645,579,510,573,517,577,513,580,1642,573,1650,574,1648,606,1617,579,511,572,518,576,514,579,511,572,517,577,513,580,510,573,517,576,1647,578,1645,580,1642,572,1651,574,1659,566,1646,579 which I could cut and paste into flirc_util --sendir --pattern=0,8954,4446,581,508,575,1647,578,512,571,1652,573,516,577,1646,579,1644,570,1652,573,1649,575,1647,578,1645,579,510,573,517,577,513,580,1642,573,1650,574,1648,606,1617,579,511,572,518,576,514,579,511,572,517,577,513,580,510,573,517,576,1647,578,1645,580,1642,572,1651,574,1659,566,1646,579 now IR capture displays -39942 +8990 -4421 +596 -493 +601 -1624 +570 -520 +604 -1620 +574 -517 +577 -1648 +577 -1648 +578 -1646 +599 -1625 +600 -1624 +570 -1654 +571 -520 +604 -487 +597 -493 +579 -1645 +601 -1623 +571 -520 +604 -1620 +574 -517 +577 -513 +601 -1624 +601 -489 +605 -1619 +574 -517 +577 -1647 +599 -492 +602 -1622 +605 -1619 +604 -487 +575 -1650 +607 -483 +579 -1646 +579 I dont see anything in the ini file to "old school" this capture, and the flirc_utility doesnt yet appear to accept the new capture stream. Comments anyone? Where is this going? With kind regards, Rob

Yes, like the title of this thread, basically a regex (remove pos/neg signs, add commas) and add preceeding '0,'. Next version Jason releases likely to address/simplify. w/kind regards, Rob

This is currently being worked on. I'm not the engineer, so apologies if I get this mangled, but it appears to be an issue with the LEDs occasionally drawing more current than expected, or something like that. For some reason, it causes the remote to do a hard reset and momentarily lose settings. Effort now is to eliminate or reduce the reset and preserve the settings. I think by the end of all this, Jason could probably get a PHD in optimizing energy flow on devices with low battery.

A forum member asked how I converted a CSV file I had created originally into a JSON file and I figured I would share with everyone. I pulled my codes from here https://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/codes/yamaha/rx-v1000/ Here is how I got my json file. I am familiar with the Linux command line so I performed the following steps. Before I show these let me say that an easier way could be to open a spreadsheet program and copy the button name into one column and the code for the button into another column. The second column needs to have the spaces between the numeric codes replaced with commas. You should then be able to save to the CSV file. It is possible you spreadsheet program may be able to save the file to JSON. If not, you may be able to use an online tool to do that basic work. I followed the following steps to dump the html page into a bit more of a manageable file. The steps below have been modified from the blog post. lynx -dump 'https://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/codes/yamaha/rx-v1000/' | sed -e 's/^ *//' | tr -s ' ' ',' | sed 's/$/,/' > dumped_page.txt I then ran the following commands to strip out more of what I did not need. sed -i '/\[filler\.gif\]/d' dumped_page.txt sed -i '/\(Copy,to,Clipboard\)/d' dumped_page.txt sed -i '/\[filler\.gif\]/d' dumped_page.txt I then opened the dumped_page.txt file into a text editor and removed all the text I did not need. How I found that was by looking for these couple of lines of text Remote Model: RAV222 [filler.gif] Power ([23]Copy to Clipboard) Power is where my first button started so I removed every line above Power in the file. I then looked for the equivalent of the bottom the button codes. [filler.gif] [ < Back | Page: 1 [43]2 | [44]Next > ] [filler.gif] I removed everything starting from the first filler.gif line to the bottom of the file. I then combined all the codes for each button onto one line. BEFORE Stadium, 0000,006b,0022,0002,0156,00ad,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041, 0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041, 0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015, 0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015, 0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015, 0015,05f8,0156,0057,0015,0e57, AFTER Stadium,0000,006b,0022,0002,0156,00ad,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,05f8,0156,0057,0015,0e57 Since I know I am working with a CSV file I removed the last comma from each line since I do not need it and it could cause problems when creating the JSON file I saved that file which now gives me 20 lines for my remote and then i ran another script to convert the CSV into a JSON file. Notice that I filled in the "types", "brand", and "model" with what was relevant to me. I redirected the output of the script to a file. #!/usr/bin/env bash cat << EOF { "header": { "version": "2.0" }, "types": [ "devices.audio" ], "brand": "Yamaha", "model": "RX V-1000", "signals": [ EOF while read -r line; do _label=$(echo "${line}" | cut -d ',' -f 1) _code=$(echo "${line}" | cut -d ',' -f 2- | tr '[:lower:]' '[:upper:]') cat << EOF { "label": "${_label}", "code": "${_code}", "protocol": "PRONTO" }, EOF done < dumped_page.txt cat << EOF ] } EOF One thing to keep on mind is that JSON is picky about commas and where then end up and the end of blocks. I will show what I mean with the last two entries of my JSON file. { "label": "RO Concert", "code": "0000,006B,0022,0002,0156,00AD,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,001 5,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,05F8,0156,0057,0015,0E57", "protocol": "PRONTO" }, <----- NOTICE THIS COMMA { "label": "Stadium", "code": "0000,006B,0022,0002,0156,00AD,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,001 5,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,0015,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0041,0015,0015,0015,05F8,0156,0057,0015,0E57", "protocol": "PRONTO" } <----- IT CANNOT EXIST AT THE END ] }

Okay. I made some progress. Memory corruption faults are hard to solve. They can happen a completely different area. But I think I found the cause and am doing a few things to prevent this from happening. I should have an update today with a few improvements.

Ok so not sure what TF happened but like 3 hours after updating the FW on my remote, it started worked as intended. Not sure if it's a fluke or what, haha. I'll follow up again tonight or tomorrow to verify it is working properly now.

Most devices come with a toggle button for power. It tells the device to go to the opposite state that it is currently in. So if the device is in an on state, the toggle command turns it off. If it's off, the toggle command turns it on. The problem is when you have multiple devices in your entertainment center and they are told to toggle. If one isn't in the same state as the others, the devices won't end up in the same state. This can happen if something interferes with the IR signal to the device. Discrete Power, on the other hand, has separate commands for On and Off. If the device is off, it will turn on, but if the device is already on, sending the Power On doesn't do anything (well sometimes it does). Same with off. As for CEC, I avoid it at all costs. It's a pain to use for anything other then a basic setup. It might be appropriate for your configuration, but as you noted it can take time. You could try like I show in the image below, just remove the existing toggle and then drag the power off commands to the macro.

I’m going to help you out with better tools in a sec. I have another app that does a better job at this.

If its purely an app UI design issue, then would be really worth thinking about this, as more options is useful especially with macros. And this will move away from the question, a little, while the UI does looks great, and its nice and clean. I would say there is a lot of white space that pads out the app especially around the remote. I'd love it that the overall window was resizable or could be maximised (a different topic). The tool tips for me, would be the place to look for space. Perhaps that needs to be reworked, maybe have its own menu option, optional or even as a separate pop up window vs on screen all the time when you are editing. It has reducing benefits to being on screen the longer you use the app, so optional in some form, would be good. So perhaps move the remote over a bit and have a smaller right side menu and maybe make it consistent in all modes on screen (e.g. the cog wheel tools option, the whole panel goes away, a tool tip here would still be useful, under settings its different again). I'm not a UI expert, but the flows between the screens doesn't flow as naturally to me, as it could. For me at least (and I may well be the minority here), having a consistent app, with less animation and a "common" frame work used in all screens would be nice. I like the idea of a single menu bar across the top (move the about tab up to the top right for example), leaving the connection status and sync on the button on the bottom makes sense. Of course this all might just be limits with the software this is all coded in, but could always look at Google or Apple's designs, they spent millions on trying to get his right (well as right as they feel they are!!!). And as people are use to their designs (rightly or wrongly) for mass appeal its worth a look to see what can be borrowed. I know its a small team and changes could take a while if at all, so I'm just throwing in ideas and see if anything sticks. I do hope it helps.

I've seen something similar and it looks like it may be tied to how powerful the IR transmitter is (or rather its lack of power). If I go sit in front of my flirc USB receiver the remote seems to respond normally and quickly. A few feet back and it's once again sporadic. Harmony has, of course, absolutely no problem with being 6 feet from the IR receiver. I even bought a 90 degree USB adapter to raise the IR receiver above my Nvidia shield for better reception but no joy, remote still has those weird skips as if it sometimes can't reach the IR receiver. So far it seems this remote is struggling with the basics.

Hi, I just bought a Flirc USB device (Dori version) to use with a Dish Network 20.1 remote to control Kodi on headless Debian Linux. First, I added your repo and installed Flirc from that to a test laptop that has a desktop environment installed. The first thing that happened when I ran Flirc was I got prompted to update the firmware to 4.9.3, which I accepted. There's no profile for my remote so I tried toggling around the different built-in profiles to get a good keymap for Kodi setup. That didn't pan out very well so I decided to make my own custom profile using flirc_util to map the exact keycodes to corresponding remote buttons. I downloaded Linux Generic latest (flirc.latest.x86_64.tar.gz), which contained Flirc/flirc_util 3.25.3. Unfortunately it depends on libreadline6, which is unavailable as Debian stable is currently at libreadline8. So, instead I downloaded and compiled the git sdk flirc_util. Unfortunately it just segfaults when you run it. I'd prefer to compile git and have it work but if nobody can look into the segfaulting, could someone please update the "latest" Linux package against current Debian stable, or re-package it as a snap/flatpack/appimage so it will just work (hopefully) without dependency problems? Thanks