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Benjamin Metzler

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Benjamin Metzler last won the day on September 6

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  1. That would be on the plex/jellyfin side. You would need to map the IR code sent by the skip1 to the command.
  2. Ideally I’d like to see every button as fully programmable with macros. This would allow people who want it to work like harmony can program it that way; and any who want it to work the it does now, can make it work that way as well. Limiting some buttons to some paradigm limits what the remote can do, as well as the audience. When I had a JP1 remote, the hacking community did just this. It made the remotes incredibly easy to use by anyone. The trade off was that programming it was more complex.
  3. I'm hoping that "Add git support" is on on flirc's TODO list. One can dream :-).
  4. My solution has been to: Because the skip1 doesn't support actions on the activities buttons, I use the Red color button to power on my home theater and configure all of the inputs. That means powering on my system or switching what I'm watching is a three mutton press: Activity, Color, Red. It's a work around until the remote can support actions on the activities buttons. To power off everything, I map the discrete power off commands to "Power Up" and "Power Down". This makes it a dedicated button for powering off the system. Not all devices support discrete power options, so YMMV. Ben
  5. Most devices come with a toggle button for power. It tells the device to go to the opposite state that it is currently in. So if the device is in an on state, the toggle command turns it off. If it's off, the toggle command turns it on. The problem is when you have multiple devices in your entertainment center and they are told to toggle. If one isn't in the same state as the others, the devices won't end up in the same state. This can happen if something interferes with the IR signal to the device. Discrete Power, on the other hand, has separate commands for On and Off. If the device is off, it will turn on, but if the device is already on, sending the Power On doesn't do anything (well sometimes it does). Same with off. As for CEC, I avoid it at all costs. It's a pain to use for anything other then a basic setup. It might be appropriate for your configuration, but as you noted it can take time. You could try like I show in the image below, just remove the existing toggle and then drag the power off commands to the macro.
  6. As you noted, your "Power Down" macro has just the TV Power Toggle, but nothing for the AVR. Have you tried using the discrete power off codes for you TV and AVR? It might give you different results. It could be the remote is losing the state of the devices after some time. My approach has been to use one of the Color buttons to power on the system and set the inputs on the devices. Then I set Power button to always power off (after setting the inputs to my default state), regardless of what state the remote thinks the devices are in. It's a kludge, but until activity buttons can have macros, it's the only solution I can see working. Ben
  7. While it's not the lastest beta, you can find download links at: https://flirc.tv/products/skip1s-remote-universal-remote-control?variant=43489094729960#spec2
  8. You can add a delay between macro items, albeit only up to 10 seconds:
  9. I have the FLIRC on MacOS. What's the process for capturing the codes from my Harmony to Pronto for import into the Skip1? Also, any thought about how to document converting the IRDB (https://github.com/probonopd/irdb) to a format that the Skip1 can used? There are a bunch of codes available. Thanks, Ben
  10. On MacOS, how can I completely uninstall the Skip app? I dragged the app to the trash and then emptied, but when I re-installed the app, it still shows my current remote configuration. I'd like to clear out everything and start over again. I didn't find anything in the ~/Library folder, so I'm not sure how it's picking up my old configuration. Thanks, Ben
  11. My preference is for the remote to not be smart when it comes to power. Maintaining power states is tough because every device can be in any state and set outside of the remote, so trying to track that with the remote is cumbersome at best. My solution is to use discrete power off (when they exist) and to program a macro onto the Power button that sends the power off commands regardless of what the remote thinks the current state is. I also macro the Color-Up to power on devices for the current activity. When macros can be added to the activity buttons, I'll move it there. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Not affiliated with Flirc in any way. Just a friendly guy. My Skip 1s Configuration: https://github.com/benjaminmetzler/skip_remote Find me on Mastodon at: https://mas.to/@benjaminmetzler ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  12. One thing to note, the power on and power off commands from my harmony didn't generate any IR codes.
  13. 1853 1622 1780 0853 1004 are code to try while programming a OFA remote, not the pronto codes. I didn't find anything in globalcache.com for the OnePlace/S70CDS. I was able to program my Harmony remote with the Canal Digital OnePlace and captured the available commands with a flirc. They looked pronto-ish. I put it in a github gist. @Nathan is that what you all need?
  14. Do you already have an IR receiver? If so, in the SkipApp wizard, see if one of the devices under the Microsoft brand works for you. The HP receiver might be a generic Microsoft eHome Infrared Transceiver. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I am not affiliated with Flirc. I'm just a friendly guy with a passion for remote controls My Skip 1s Configuration: https://github.com/benjaminmetzler/skip_remote Find me on Mastodon at: https://mas.to/@benjaminmetzler ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote
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