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  1. Today
  2. Hello all, So I am a complete newbie. I have this IR controller: https://wiki.odroid.com/accessory/connectivity/ir_remote_controller How can I make it work with FLIRC ? I am using windows 10. I understand the different controller presets in the GUI, but my controller is not reacting to any of them. I press GO on the app, then I press a key on the remote but the remote is not detected. Can you help me troubleshoot? Thanks!
  3. Yes I do! I'll give the remove/reinstall suggestion a try and follow up. As for Steam, is there any recommendation on having the remote be ignored by Steam?
  4. Pretty much all or most Skips set for February shipping have gotten delayed due to the pause. We're rushing to get the next round built and shipped. We should have an update when we're ready to send more out again.
  5. hi, just following up to see if there any been any further updates for xfinity. The remote works great for all other functions but with the x1 box, unless i'm directly in front of it, nothing works from the range of my couch :/
  6. Yesterday
  7. Good to know, I'll keep an eye out for a future update on it. Still using it for now, just mildly annoying.
  8. I ordered a skip S on 5/1/23 Was expected to be shipped in February but I've had no update since How do i know if mine has been delayed further?
  9. Great, i will give that a shot. a little busy over the next two days but it's high on my want to do list ;-). If you have a recommended IR blaster (or a way to repurpose the Harmony IR blaster), please do let me know.
  10. This ability is actually built into the Skip and is part of the planned upcoming updates, just not ready for prime time yet. You can actually also capture using a Flirc USB with IR Debugging turned on. It's awkward to use though and not everyone has a Flirc USB, so it's not always something we push. Thanks for the suggestions! The team is quite tiny at the moment, so we don't really have a standardized development and release cycle built up yet, but as we grow, I think your suggestions are absolutely a great way to go.
  11. I believe this is a bug in the firmware. Someone else has noticed it as well and reported it in another forum post. It should indeed remember your powered on state. I notified Jason and we should be able to look into it soon.
  12. @userdude Ok. With regard to the Flirc USB, you should actually be able to File -> Clear Configuration, and that will solve a lot of problems. The Flirc is built already knowing some codes. If you clear the configuration on the Flirc, and then program the Skip 1s in the Skip App to work with Flirc - NVIDIA Shield, the Flirc USB should just work, no programming in the flirc app needed. Regarding the other two devices, if you have a Flirc USB and the original remotes, we can record those remotes and create profiles for them. To do so, open the Flirc app, then File - Device Log. Then enable IR Debugging. Then go through and record each button and save the output as a text file with each button press labeled. Each button press will look something like: +9051 -4416 +605 -511 +601 -1625 +606 -1626 +605 -1621 +605 -511 +605 -1625 +605 -1622 +609 -1621 +605 -1626 +605 -1626 +605 -1621 +606 -510 +605 -519 +597 -510 +606 -510 +605 -1622 +605 -511 +605 -1625 +605 -511 +605 -1622 +605 -510 +606 -510 +605 -513 +603 -510 +605 -507 +605 -511 +605 -1626 +606 -510 +601 -1626 +605 -511 +605 -1622 +605 -511 +554 -41 +9055 -2182 +554 We can turn that into pronto codes and get you a fully working remote. Eventually, this will all be automated and part of the Skip App, but we're not there yet.
  13. This should not be the case. @jason seems we have a firmware issue
  14. i have loaded the latest firmware you made available. still seeing the IR pulsing and the light ring flashing the log shows buttons being pressed with no presses from me. do let me know if i can do anything to help further to find the issue. more than happy to test flirc-remote-control20230321.log {config{titleHome,remote{version4.1.txt Untitled video.mp4
  15. I’m experiencing the same issue, if I’m on an activity, ie watching bt vision, under button a, everything powers on, but if I want to power off the devices, the tv remains on and throws things out of sync
  16. Agree, without this being easy, its hard for me to have these out with the family as it doesn't make sense to them, compared to the aging Logitech's. Not actually sure I've gotten it either to be honest, as I can't get it to switch when I've tried it (maybe its just the amp not working...not sure). Until then there are sitting in their boxes unfortunately. I'd love that if I want to watch TV (A) I press A, and everything is setup, if I press B for a Roku, channels are changed etc. ready for that (agree you need entry and exit setups, to change channels, reset volumes etc, av amp modes). But I don't actually control the power all of my devices via a remote on the whole, as I use home automation to control the powering of the core devices as they mostly not on standby. Those that are on standby is limited to the bluray and a freeview box, both I'd toggle in the activity switching. But maybe its useful to have a power button for them, but then I'd say, just press that activity again to setup everything. the TV/Amp is annoying when they get out of sync currently, so removing them totally from the remote's control will be ideal for me.
  17. I hope this is the right place to add this. Fully understand there is a huge amount of work going on behind the scenes and that makes it hard to get updates out on both software and just general messages. So this is very much meant to help reduce one aspect of the work load, and more importantly manage the expectations of us the customers. So a few thoughts: 1) With the software side, unless a update totally brakes things, that these are pushed out on a regular basis on the same day each week (e.g have a patch Tuesday), of course assuming an update is ready. 2) When patches do go out, there is a change log somewhere on what has updated and equally what has not been addressed. Maybe this needs to be central list (or a locked forum post, so its just easier to search on and monitor and lets everyone look back on what was done previous. 3) Perhaps on another fixed day say a Monday, a simple update post, to say this is what's planned for the coming week, which could also highlight whether there is a patch for Tuesday and any issues that are hopefully being looked at or addressed. The week time period listed above is just an example, if could also be fortnightly, just needs to be happen on a regular basis, even if there is no news. It's a great way to keep people happy. Finally what other ways can the community help you, to help us. For example, I don't think anyone expects you to buy and have access to every single remote, so providing the tools for us to help capture those remotes that are in the wild would be so useful (for both sides) but agree there would need to be a sign off process to confirm if things are done right. I purchased up a usb module with my remotes for that very idea. Just with some of this I'd hope it would make life a little easier for you to plan, and lets you most importantly manage our expectations as to when to check back, or if you need feedback when you need it by. Then we know when to put aside time if there is something new we want to test out. I won't go into details here, but until some aspects are added/modified, I just have two nice paperweights in there boxes. And I truly hope this does not feel like I'm trying to "teach you to suck eggs". Apologies if it does, just trying to offer useful ideas.
  18. I've seen something similar and it looks like it may be tied to how powerful the IR transmitter is (or rather its lack of power). If I go sit in front of my flirc USB receiver the remote seems to respond normally and quickly. A few feet back and it's once again sporadic. Harmony has, of course, absolutely no problem with being 6 feet from the IR receiver. I even bought a 90 degree USB adapter to raise the IR receiver above my Nvidia shield for better reception but no joy, remote still has those weird skips as if it sometimes can't reach the IR receiver. So far it seems this remote is struggling with the basics.
  19. I configured the power on/off macros with "TV Power On" instead of toggle for that specific reason, so that even if the remote fell out of sync with the state of the devices it shouldn't screw it up by powering off something I'm trying to power on. Unfortunately, the remote seems to have a terrible memory for states. Powering on an activity works fine but then if I try to power off the same activity an hour later (without switching activities at all), it still tries to power on instead of powering off. I have to press the power button a second time to get the power off sequence. I have no idea why the remote forgets it powered on the activity so quickly and I'm really disappointed in that.
  20. I am trying to get used to how this remote works but this one has me stumped. I have one activity configured to watch TV. The Power On macro powers on my amp and TV and switches the inputs to the correct ones. The Power Off sequence powers off the amp and TV. Pretty much all of the time I try to power off the activity it powers it on instead. I'll power on normally, watch an hour or two, then press the power button on the remote to shut off everything. Instead, it tries powering on everything again and switches the inputs again, after which I have to press the button a second time for it to actually power off. What is the logic behind how the power button works? I haven't even switched activities. I powered on everything to start with and it did that properly. Why does the remote apparently forget that power on was the last command the power button sent and does not power off the activity the next time I press the power button? I would think this is one of the very basic things the remote should be able to do. Remembering the state of the one activity I powered on and knowing to power off when I press the button an hour later should be very straightforward, so why doesn't it do that properly?
  21. No, the tv isn’t going into power saving mode
  22. Try the attached, when it happens, post the log. I still need to add more, but this might help. A second crash and a second log will be helpful too. Thank you so much. skip.1s.a06.release-4.12.11-13-g042dc+.bin
  23. Thanks, Jason. We're still seeing this, not a huge deal as it resolves itself, but definitely annoying.
  24. I just wanted to say that I've been working incredibly hard on a way to log the event. I have something working that I'll post soon. Hopefully we can narrow down the cause for the hang.
  25. Is there an update on my question? It looks like the software hasn't updated since I first downloaded it, is there an ETA for a new release?
  26. thank you for this demo, I was able to figure out how to build the macro properly for my unlisted Yamaha receiver.
  27. Last week
  28. So, I was just coming back to update you on what steps i've taken. So I pulled the Flirc dongle out and plugged it back into my computer and there were a few updates for it. I went to program it again using the updated shield config, but during the process, i'm running into problems with the mapping. When I walk through the configuration - it will ask for the directional pad and the select button, followed by the power button and menu button. However, when i select the power button on my Skip, the application seems to record multiple commands (or something like that) because it will accept that the power has been programmed, blink for the menu for a moment, and then ask for the home key. If i go back to the menu it says it's already been selected. So here's where we are at - The skip is turning my tv on and off. The skip is working with my shield - but the home and menu buttons keep getting recorded as the same The reciever is still not responding.
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