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Did this go anywhere? having a full keyboard in the skip 1s software would solce all myniggling issues

I was not sure which forum to post this in.. I had no problem using the Flirc USB with a Roku remote. But the Flirc USB does not recognize any signal from the Skip 1 remote? The Skip 1 remote appears to be working, indicator light comes on and it responds to it's app. Thanks

What you’re running into is usually caused by inputs not being explicitly defined per activity. Each activity needs its own dedicated input commands for every device involved. Make sure that in Activity A and Activity B, the TV, AVR, and source device each have the correct input selected and saved, not just the power commands. Also double-check that the Denon AVR has a specific input command assigned for each activity, rather than relying on the last used input. If HDMI-CEC is enabled on any device, it can also override activity logic, so disabling CEC often helps. Once inputs are clearly set per activity, switching between A and B should reliably change inputs instead of only powering devices on.

It was a really interesting and important experience. I had a different experience with my Nvidia Shield and Flirc – after a firmware update, everything worked smoothly. If you're still having trouble, you can try this.

Asked the same question a year ago and it's partially answered by: Which I suppose seems reasonable if once stabilized the internet requirement becomes an opt in (to update IR decoders) rather than a requirement. Though I guess what I don't quite understand is how this is any different than Flirc which also decodes IR from remotes (to translate to e.g. keyboard keys) and to my knowledge Flirc App doesn't require an internet connection to work and uses the traditional update hardware firmware and check for app updates model to pull down updated logic. Worst case, since Skip1s App allows modifying the JSON files used I'm assuming that recording IR with something like Flirc or perhaps Skip1s with debug logging enabled would be sufficient to capture IR signals which could be looked up online. E.g. here's the hex for an Insignia remote: IR Codes for Insignia TV Remote NS-RC4NA-14 – Steve Zazeski.

@teoformartel no worries I had recently just found those files after tidying up my nas, hence the quick reply. The assumption earlier was the the T3 and T4 may use similar codes hence the op original questions. So my raw files codes should be convertible. Quick Google I found this GitHub post. https://github.com/crankyoldgit/IRremoteESP8266/discussions/1845 Not tried it, but if this works, I'd compare one known code and hopefully you'll get the result you need. That said I did a bit of searching and also found this. https://manhattan-tv.com/support/manhattan-t4r/your-t4r-remote/pair-your-t4r-and-remote-to-prevent-interference-with-other-manhattan-devices So the plus is the codes are good if using the universal channel 0 or channel 1.. on the Manhattan but if that got changed then I guess that's when the 'fun' starts. I wish you luck, if anything from the t3 is useful happy to look further.

Hi again. As I wrote earlier, I used the Linux app to setup everything. (I've been using Linux professionally and as a hobby for almost 35 years, since it came on about a 100 floppies :-) Thus it was the natural choice) I've since tried using the Windows app which came up with a firmware update for the Skip. After the firmware update, the power button started to work, both when programming it from Windows and Linux. The firmware is now 4.14.1-0-gdea1347. I can't remember whether the Linux app came up with an update or is it possible to manually do an update? I think I did an update at some point. But I may be wrong. Anyway it is working now and yes, the Linux app is experimental :-) I'm closing this on my part.

Does the program anything anywhere? I can't find anything?

Thanks for returning. I've done it right now but there was no feedback from the program while I did it, thus I'm not sure whether it has send anything?

Can you attach your support file? Hold down space bar, click the three dots, and click leave feedback (all while holding spacebar) I'll take a look.

I have a weird problem with the power button on the Skip 1s. I've tried to sync various different device-types and all has the problem: When I have assigned a device and test it using Flirc USB, power button does not work. All other buttons transmit something but the power button stays quiet. However I can see the remote light up so it senses that I've pressed the button. If I test the button from within the Skip app, everything is OK, the receiver get's a code. However not when I press the power button. Anybody got a clue? Everything is brand new, got it 2 days ago. Remote model: Skip.1s.Release.06, firmware: 4.13.9-0-g114437a, app: skip-app_0.9.995+10457, linux

@Jilas671 Appreciate your help. Did not expect you to reply so fast. My bad, I forgot to mention I have T4-R version. Codes from your json file are new to me and they did not work. Codes from txt files i've had before. I've exported them from one of remote control android apps. They are not working as well. I'm using NEC Extended (32 bit) format instead of raw format to store compare and use codes but the logic is the same. These codes i have and they work: "6": 0x68040334,(as example: 0x680403FC from txt, 0x680416E9 from json) "_UNKNOWN_1": 0x68040574, "VOLUME_UP": 0x68040754, "VOLUME_MUTE_UNMUTE": 0x68041b52, "MOVE_LEFT": 0x680415b2, "PROGRAMME_DOWN": 0x68046B56, (yours, from post from August 31, 2025) "PROGRAMME_UP": 0x6804659A (yours, from post from August 31, 2025) and there is HOME button around x680413ba The 0x6804 part is constant so there is 65536 variants. Already bruteforced 25%.

Thanks for this pointer. With preview you mean the teaser on page 121 which is essentially identical to the website you linked above? Or did I miss something? By the way, when I try to add my e-mail address for notification on the teaser pager, I get (besides a strange automatic capitalization of letters of the mail address I'm typing) the error "OOPS! SOMETHING WENT WRONG" So, no notification for me to see what this will actually be?

You can achieve what you want, just don't use the same Skip / Harmony profile for all the flirc usb devices. Basically, the same IR signal is going to be sent to all devices. They will all respond. Add a device that isn't in your living room. Pick a random device in the skip database. Add that to your remote. Assign the buttons you want to use. Then fire up the flirc usb pairing app, and pair them manually. That should fix it. Let us know.

Not in that form factor. I don't like it, and didn't want to waist time on it. This was just previewed in the latest December 25 issue of the raspberry pi magazine: https://flirc.tv/pages/teaser_sail1m It's for the CM5. Trying to wrap it up now.

Hi, looking to buy a new case for a Pi5, obviously to build an htpc. Having a lot of good experience with Flirc USB on previous builds, I was thinking that the Flirc case would have Flirc USB functionality and/or the possibility to power on by remote (just as the TV). Can't find anything about this in the specs. Did I miss something? Is there a solution to this that would work with/fit into the Flirc case? Thanks!

hi eposvox this sounds more like an issue with the flirc side of things, is my understanding correct in that you have one remote set up with one flirc receiver and are happy on how this works ?? if so there isnt any pairing as such as its an ir system, with the flirc though it can be set up to control different devices and map different ir commands to the usb command it sends to the host device. one way i could see this working is set the skip up with 3 devices as media players you dont have map the needed buttons - then map these in the flirc software to respond to the ir receiver this way you would end up with three different media players set up and three flirc recivers setup to repond to different ir codes but these would map back to only controlling the one pi / laptop at a time hope that helps

The only other file I have, is the conversion of the first file by Jason. Uploaded in case that is of use as well. Looking back, those two files actually form this file. The missing codes I posted above, I don't have any updated/converted versions. I hope between the 3 files and the codes posted you get what you need. Manhattan T3-R v1.json

@teoformartel I'm assuming you want the raw files I initially sent over for the T3 remote. Somehow when I did it initially I missed a couple hence its spread over two files. Hope they help. Manhattan T3-R Remote IR Codes.txt Manhattan T3-R Remote IR Codes pt2.txt

Hello. I've broke my remote. Want to enable web remote control. I have this DIY project with raspberry pi pico, so im using your codes for emulating the remote control. Your codes are working well. Also I've tried to bruteforce the codes and i've got codes for volume_up, volume_mute_unmute, menu/home, move_left. @Jilas671 could you pls provide the codes at least for buttons i need to enable web remote control? or maybe all buttons so i could do remote myself :)

The skip remote does not want to learn the RC-P27 remote that currently controls my HD Radio. It quickly says that it didn't quite get that, before retrying and erroring out. I did try using the one other Sagean remote that was in the database but sadly it did not work. (I had no issues with learning my semi-obscure parasound pre-amp so I'd like to assume it's neither a user or hardware problem.) Any advice would be appreciated. Q

The phantom “Right arrow / skip 10 seconds” issue with FLIRC is usually caused by IR noise or key repeat, not another remote. The firmware you’re using (v4.10.7) is already the latest stable version.

It sounds like the issue is with the database not having the correct codes for your Denon X6400H modes. One thing you could try is using the “Learn” function on your Flirc to manually capture the signals from your Denon remote for Game, Music, and Cinema modes. That usually works when the default database doesn’t cover a device fully. Also, sometimes Flirc updates the database based on user submissions, so submitting your codes could help them add support for the X6400H in future releases. In the meantime, manually mapping the buttons should let you keep using your device without needing to return it.

OK so I had tried that before and had no luck, had the flashing LED ring and all. I tried it again and had the same issue until I ran the "Driver tool" referenced in this post by Jason on the December 21st. After I ran that and had the remote in DFU it picked it up right away and updated successfully and is now showing up in the Skip App. It would be nice if that tool was either included in the download or at least referenced along with the download link as a "in case your PC doesn't see the remote try this" or something. In any case, thank you for the help as it at least let me know how to tell if it was in DFU mode.

betteries out, center on the d pad and back hold them till usb in and a little after then it was in dfu mode - held remote in right hand and had it with usb facing left hand so as to not knock any other buttons. the second the usb went in got three red flashes on the ring - i missed this the first couple of tries, once in dfu mode any button presses makes the ring flash red three times