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  1. Yesterday
  2. I also will really appreciate a change to this, even if 2 different devices are technically identical under the same device "group" or "family" from a manufacturer, it would feel much better to see the software specifically list the models I'm looking for, so then if there's an issue, I already know whether my specific model is actually technically in the database already or not. As it is currently, I have no way of knowing on the surface if, for example, my LG C1 OLED is part of "group 1" under LG TV devices other than by actually trying every single button after syncing that device to the remote. (It does work just fine, just saying from a knowledge/detail perspective).
  3. Yeah I would be fairly confident that you're having a connection issue with Windows related to the bug others of us (including me) have been experiencing. On my main PC I have the connection bug, but on my Windows tablet I am able to use the app successfully, both with the included USB-C cable and also with an A to C cable, so that definitely shouldn't be your issue.
  4. Might try replacing power toggle with power on and power off. See attached video. 60815364_2023-01-2613-27-35.mp4
  5. If you have a flirc, can you open the Flirc app, open the Device Log, and enable IR Debugging. Then record your original remote. In particular, record the same button pressed a few times. Then paste the output in a txt file with a note saying which codes go with which button. Then upload here.
  6. I replied in another thread, but yep, this is something we're going to start working on.
  7. Not right now. At the moment we're working through a bunch of updates that are essentially "must haves" in order to move out of beta. It's likely a few of those you'd +1 are the same ones we would! :)
  8. We've actually slowed shipping to deal with a pretty big windows bug that's causing the remote to disconnect. I believe we're getting to a fix, and which point we'll start ramping up shipping again.
  9. Pretty much this. Almost every brand reuses codes over and over again. Because this picking of group codes is clearly uncomfortable for a lot of people, we're looking into solutions to match specifically with exact models.
  10. Going through the app this morning, it only lists two Sonos soundbars (arc and playbase, I believe), missing a bunch-- the beam gen1, beam gen2, and ray. The arc setting probably works, I can't test due to either USB-C or the broken windows software Xbox is similar, it only lists Xbox One not Xbox Series S and Xbox Series X. The Xbone setting probably works, but that's confusing for users and just generally feels like a beta product. I suggest changing to "Microsoft Xbox (One X/S and Series X/S)".
  11. Yeah, the IR database is very limited. It didn't have a bunch of my devices, and they're extremely common. No Xbox Series X, Sonos Beam, or LG OLED C1 in there. It did have the Nvidia Shield, so that's something, but given the Flirc history it would be astonishing if it didn't. Note that while those devices weren't listed, the Xbox One, Sonos Arc, and a bunch of generic "LG TV" codes were in there and my guess is they would probably work. I can't test it due to either USB-C or the Windows software issue.
  12. Ahh, could be? I know I didn't hear a connection sound from Windows when I plugged it in or removed it, but maybe that's a problem with their driver? In that case I guess I'm out another ten bucks for the adapter, shrug.
  13. My first experiences and insights with Skip1S: - It takes half an hour to understand how the software works, but after playing around with it for a while, it is easy to handle - I experienced that sometimes the gear in the upper right corner of an activity disappears and I had to restart the APP to see it again - I am working with a MAC so I didn't have the Windows Errors, discussed here :-) - The syncing of the software config to the remote is super fast and much easier than with Logitech Harmony - The database of devices (50.000) is very, very small compared to Logitech Harmony (225.000) - in my case I did not find my Philips TV and had to use one of a few "generic" configs - The generic config names "group 1", "group 2" and so on are not self-explanatory. That means "trial and error" - Much more annoying is that I did not find the central/heart of my installation: the AV-Switch, where everything is connected. That means I cannot use my Skip 1S at the moment because... - ... there is no chance to teach the Skip 1S the few commands of the AV-Switches remote to change the HDMI ports of it. So I am desperately awaiting the teaching/learning function - CEC is nor really an alternative for me, because the different implementation of CEC by the manufacturers is sometimes not interoperable. In my case the AppleTV sometimes takes over, connects to the TV and stops me from watching TV or Blu-ray - Another annoying point is that switching between activities means: every device of activity A is switched off and then every device for activity B (or C) is switched on when you change activity. Practically that means: at least the TV is switched off and on for every activity change .... grrrrrrrr - and the last point - but in that case, the Skip1S is not to blame - Infrared must see the devices. So it's a good idea to spent a few bucks and buy an IR repeater like https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01F91NHYA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Regards Martin
  14. I used a USB-A to USB-C cable from a Samsung power adaptor and had no problems connecting. Maybe you have a connection problem originating from the skip app itself like some other people have, see other forum topic skip app 0.9.4. They are working day and night to resolve this problem.
  15. Hi everyone, Does anyone know how to get keyboard commands or commands in general programmed for plex on android tv/nvidia shield? It seems that the majority of the commands do not work while using a keyboard. Majority of the keys just make the OSD appear and nothing else. Thank-you, Shawn
  16. I am very disappointed to discover the remote only comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable. This is the first consumer electronics device I've purchased that both requires PC connectivity to configure and doesn't work with USB-A. Actually, I've never even seen any other device like this. Everything else can either use a phone app or comes with some way to plug into a USB-A port. I tried a USB-A to USB-C cable I found lying around which physically fit but didn't connect, unsure why. And now I was just forced to order a USB-C to USB-A adapter from Amazon. My guess is this will be an ongoing problem for you guys. Not everybody has a recent laptop. I use an high powered desktop at home; 5950X CPU, RTX3080, 32GB RAM, blah blah, but no USB-C.
  17. No worries, it's so nice to hear that you might have found the issue. Great work from everyone involved!
  18. God damn that is bizarre!! Congrats on finally finding the root issue and being able to reproduce it now, that's a big step :) Things in Windows really do some wacky shit under the hood huh...
  19. Sorry for being quiet. We've made progress, can reproduce the issue, and are working on trying some solutions. Big shout out to Michael (Misha) who was two steps ahead of us and did incredible finding nuggets of information scattered on the internet. Seems like a number of applications, virus programs, system apps, Steam (yes, fucking steam), changes a field in the system registry for every USB HID Device's "restricted" boolean from "false" to "true". Why? No idea. Uninstalling the application does not revert the registry change, which validates what some of you experienced. Steam can install advanced drivers to help support controllers like XBOX-360, and this is what changes the field for that specific app. We are trying to create a version of the app that detects this, and updates the field. But this is not so simple. UWP apps don't have permission, and we have to do a run-around. But this seems possible, and the path of least resistance. We have some other ideas, but this seems like the best approach. Un. Fucking. Believable.
  20. Last week
  21. I was wondering if it would be possible to put together some sort of guide of what to do if you want to help out with debugging? This thread is getting quite long and if you haven't been involved from the start it can be a bit hard to follow what needs to be done if you want to test things. I'm scheduled to receive my remote this week and I have had problems with the app on Win10 so if you need more people reproduce errors I am willing to help and if there was a simple enough step-by-step guide of things to try, where to find logs etc I'm sure more people would be willing to help when they get their remotes. Just a thought :)
  22. Is there a location to post/ upvote feature requests? As far as I can see right now they're scattered in posts - I'd like to +1 the ones I'm interested in (since other people beat me to them!)
  23. Hi guys, How is the shipping going, when should we expect to get any update ?
  24. I have similar receiver as yours, you may want to try this. I'm using Onkyo TX-NR686 (Remote RC-911R). It works well with Skip 1s for volume control and input switching. I selected this model in the Skip app: TX/DTR/DHC Series Main Zone All Models (Receiver/Preamp)
  25. I'm also experiencing just the same with my Telenet cable box, no problems with my Philips TV.
  26. I reset the Flirc receiver and my Kodi but the results were worse. The menu scrolled without any action on the remote control. Reading the forum I found a similar problem. External lights and IR noise interfering with signals from my remote and flooding the flirc receiver. My TV is plasma technology and probably generates a lot of IR noise. Anyway, to solve the problem and reduce the flow of IR I protected Flirc with a light paper mask. Now the remote and Flirc work properly without ghost or missing event. An evolution of the hardware or the firmware could be considered to reduce the sensitivity to external noise.
  27. Looking for the same information here. I have most of the Harmony 650 / FLIRC / Fire TV Series 4 working but I cannot find a way to get the setup to control the TV volume.
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