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That got it! Can finally use my 2 year old Fire Stick! Thanks for the effort. Ernie

Very sorry, seems I have an issue with the win64 build.... Try this one: Win32 Download Updated my other links as well.

Ok, well I tried it using the command line exe - never used that before. I loaded using the same IR code with the older Fire TV. Unfortunately, it behaved the exact same way. I even tried importing the the Hex code for the `CURSOR ENTER` button in the JSON file via the URC software. Same result.

Thanks for your reply (and I apologize for the delay in mine). The remote works as intended (the input on the receiver changes properly) when powering down one activity and then powering up a different one. It's only when the Smart Activity Switching is on and I try to switch to a different activity without powering down the first one, then the receiver does nothing. The other components behave as expected, but they do not require their commands to be repeated to function properly. I'm attaching the exported config. I'd appreciate your hep with this. Thank you. Skip_050826.skip

Yes. That’s the problem. but it should work outside the pc and in the ps4 because that doesn’t have a German keyboard.

Nope, i tried to assign smthg to the eject key but after "recording" it playbacks the ch+ key. Same went to the kodi template, i assigned some buttons but playbacked ch+ too. only And finally in kodi it also just only did ch+ actions. I have german keyboard layout everyhwere. can this cause it? No matter ... then i explorerd "flirc_util.exe" and ... ... all worked. :) Thx a lot.

What actually happens in the PS4? I would actually say this is a GUI bug that's highlighting the wrong key, but FLIRC is still sending the correct key to the computer.

Now i made this, from this manual 3.27.19 FW Version: v4.10.7 SKU: Flirc 2.0 [dori] Branch: release Config: release Hash: 0x71266B92 Settings: sleep detection: always enabled noise canceler: always enabled inter-key delay: N/A for current firmware variant: Flirc builtin profiles: NA Memory Info: NA product sku: Flirc 2.0 [dori] Recorded Keys: Index hash IK ID key ----- -------- --- -- ------------ 0 85407C1B 052 02 0x04 1 D74BCEC9 130 02 0x05 2 A4B660C9 051 02 0x06 3 D2B872C9 052 02 0x07 4 42DBE0C9 051 02 0x08 5 672860C9 052 02 0x09 6 E0ABF2C9 051 02 0x0A 7 50CF60C9 052 02 0x0B 8 751BE0C9 052 02 0x0C 9 A50F84C9 052 02 0x0D 10 1532F2C9 051 02 0x0E 11 397F72C9 051 02 0x0F 12 DB20F2C9 052 02 0x10 13 4BE2E0C9 051 02 0x11 14 B6D472C9 051 02 0x12 15 12E83CC9 052 02 0x13 16 0FA7F2C9 051 02 0x14 17 A2C4CEC9 051 02 0x15 18 7E784EC9 051 02 0x16 19 E53F4EC9 051 02 0x17 20 E052CEC9 052 02 0x18 21 428672C9 051 02 0x19 Then i inserted the stick to my windows kodi piers machine. I installed the flirc addon + kodis "keymap editor" In flirc addon only Buttons "nothing to map" Keymap editor also doesnt get smthg when i try to "edit" a key :( The final question is, how can i make such a programmed remote (e.g. "0 85407C1B 052 02 0x04") to work in kodi on windows?

I downloaded the Win64 version and tried to run it but get an error. I did the "Unblock" thing on the zip file (right-click -> Properties) before extracting. Is there something else I have to do? I copied over the WinSpakle.dll file into the extract folder which it complied about first.

Hello, received my flirc v2 today. Installed everything and updated firmware (Flirc-Setup-3.27.19.exe). I mapped the "eject" key on "ps4 template" to a remote code from my "tbs remote". When i then press the key on the "tbs remote", in the flirc software, it shows "ch+" key, instead of the selected "eject" key on the ps4 template. This happens to many other buttons too! I map a key from the "tbs remote "to a specific key on the ps4 template BUT after, when pressing the button, it only presses the "ch+" key in the ps4 template. So, in this state flirc is unusable for me because 90% of the mapped buttons from my "tbs remote" all press the "ch+" key. What must i do, that, after mapping a remote code, the selected key is then "used", and not a different key? This is the "tbs remote": IR debugging log: https://pastebin.com/6VJtr0DX Ad these are the "nec" remote codes, i get, when using it with libreelec/coreelec on a s905 box: https://pastebin.com/iaup3QUc EDIT: Now i used my samsung tv remote. same behaviour. i map smthg to the eject key on the ps4 template but after it presses the ch+ key.

Try the following. This includes a firmware image that fixes the issue with the built-in profiles. It should also resolve the issue if you relearn the keys using the FLIRC software and the Fire TV controller (relearn any problematic keys). If you have a Skip remote, this adds a few more buttons. Load the attached file into the Skip software, as this is currently the only way to access the new keys until I expand the Fire TV controller in the GUI. Windows 32 Bit Linux App Image Linux Static Compile Mac Universal Sorry this took so long. It was much more work than I expected. I was able to implement some of the special Amazon keys, but it will require additional firmware work to fully support them, which I plan to do. Please let me know. Flirc-Amazon FireTV.json

@Chris B I just wanted to say thanks, as your original post is still relevant today. I recently bought a Google TV Streamer (4K), and was able to get it working with my Skip 1s remote by using a similar USB Splitter here in the UK. This is the adapter I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08Y6VQN99 After adding the "Flirc - NVIDIA Shield Gen 2 (Set Top Box,PC)" in the Skip App, and syncing the remote, I was then able to program the remote buttons through the Flirc App. The Power, Home, Directional Buttons, and Back all work correctly, and this means I can now retire my Sofabaton remote, and go back to using the Skip 1s.

What you’re seeing isn’t a Kodi or Mac issue—it’s almost certainly how the Logitech Harmony 950 is sending IR signals compared to the older Logitech Harmony One+. The 950 tends to be more aggressive with repeats and timing, which can introduce that “half-second” feel when used with a Flirc USB Receiver (2nd Generation). A few things that actually fix this (not just the usual delay sliders): 1. Reduce repeats in Flirc (this is the big one) Open the Flirc software → go to Advanced and: Disable built-in profiles (to avoid conflicts) Try lowering the inter-key delay (or enabling noise cancellation depending on firmware) Most importantly: re-record your keys very lightly (quick taps). Flirc is very sensitive, and if the Harmony sends multiple repeats, it feels like lag. 2. Change the Harmony device profile The “Flirc → Kodi” profile often causes sluggish behavior on newer Harmony remotes. Instead, try: Add a device like “Microsoft → MCE Keyboard” or “Panasonic TV” Then re-map buttons in Flirc manually This works because those profiles send cleaner, shorter IR bursts. 3. Set Harmony repeats to minimum (hidden setting) In MyHarmony: Go to device → troubleshoot → “device responds too many times” Set repeats = 0 or 1 (default is often too high) Even if you already tweaked delays, repeats are the real culprit here. 4. Turn off Harmony 950 “long press” behavior The 950 sometimes adds a built-in hold before repeating keys. You can: Reduce or disable “press and hold” actions in button customization 5. USB polling / macOS side (less common but worth checking) On your Mac Mini (2018): Try a different USB port (avoid hubs) Make sure no other IR/keyboard software is interfering Why the One+ feels faster The Harmony One+ sends simpler IR signals with fewer repeats. Ironically, that makes it feel more responsive with Flirc, which prefers clean, single presses. Bottom line The fix is usually: Use a different Harmony device profile + set repeats to 0/1 + re-record keys in Flirc That combination eliminates the lag in most setups.

I have been trying for about 2 months now to program in a new remote for My HDMI switcher Manufacture: ALYYDBG Model: 8K@60Hz HDMI Switch 4 in 1 Out Every time I try I get a message saying along the lines of I need a network connection even though I have one and it says it can not contact server. It doe not let me save the remote even. I had been using Fedora 43 up until today when I tired using skip-app_0.9.995+10457_amd64.AppImage under ubuntu server 22.04 today.

I figured it out. I'm going to think about how best to solve it. I also figured out how to send those fucking primet, peakcock, directv, etc buttons....

Thank you

Easiest thing would be to run a program that allows you to change keypresses into mouse events. This can be an accessibility setting as posted above, or an external tool such as warpd ( GitHub - rvaiya/warpd: A modal keyboard-driven virtual pointer · GitHub ), tpmmouse ( Releases · EsportToys/TPMouse ), mousemaster ( GitHub - petoncle/mousemaster: Mouseless mouse control and advanced keyboard customization. · GitHub ), and there are many others. Then, pair the key on the remote with the button-code that matches right-click in the program you used.

Thanks for the fast reply. I cannot seem to reproduce it today... The behaviour yesterday was: pair some keys flirc_util settings -> lists the pairing unplug flirc plug in flirc paired keys still work, flirc_util settings -> empty list (paired keys could be deleted with delete and ir code) pair some more keys flirc_util settings -> shows only the newly paired keys with index starting from 1 (pairings could be deleted with delete and delete_index, deleted_index deleted the key that was shown on the list, so this was consistent) go back to 3. I hadn't used the flirc tool in a while but need to change some pairings (the flirc is basically set and forget :-)) and it puzzled me. I used a different computer, which had a fresh installation of the Flirc software - it was rebooted after installing the software. When I noticed my the flirc_util settings list was empty even though the keys still worked, I ran flirc_tool unit_test, and flirc_tool format but the behaviour stayed. I noticed that saving the configuration to a file and loading it after unplugging/replugging had the same effect as pairing the keys, in the sense that the flirc_util settings list was complete. Today I wanted to reproduce it to give you full details, and flirc_util settings shows all the keys I paired yesterday. :-) Unplugging/replugging does not change anything.... It just works as it should. It probably should not matter but I shut down my computer yesterday evening so today I started from a fresh boot. Just for completeness I've added my flirc version data below, but I guess we can close this as it does not occur anymore - will be impossible to figure out what it was if I cannot reproduce it. Best regards, Jörg -- 3.27.19 FW Version: v4.10.7 SKU: Flirc 2.0 [dori] Branch: release Config: release Hash: 0x71266B92 Settings: sleep detection: always enabled noise canceler: always enabled inter-key delay: N/A for current firmware variant: Flirc builtin profiles: NA Memory Info: NA product sku: Flirc 2.0 [dori]

Can you try this one: Linux Download

Go to File->Advanced and disable all the built in profiles. You can post your config, and there could be some noise that was recorded. You can check it here: https://flirc.io/config/

Thank you for the kind words, means a lot. It should actually honor the delays and repeats in your button as if it were not doing the switch at all. So if you were to turn off the smart activity switch, and then power down the first activity, power up the second activity, does it work? Attach your config, I'll load it on my remote and play with it.

Thanks for putting this together, really helpful. Yes, will start working on something.

No, definitely not. Do the keys still work that you had paired previously? The rest of your questions are kinda moot considering the device is loosing it's configuration. Can you make sure you are on the latest firmware? What does yours say?

Sorry, we've all been taking turns getting sick and I was playing nurse at home. I bought a FireTV Max, a game controller, and I have some test firmware. I should be able to do some testing tomorrow.

Hello, I have a question regarding the commandline tool flirc_util. Problem stopped after a reboot from the computer; I cannot reproduce it so removing the question. When I learn a couple of keys on the Flirc (using the commandline tool), and then run "flirc_util settings", it shows me the list of keys I've learned. If I then unplug the Flirc and replug it, the programmed keys still work, but "flirc_util settings" shows an empty list. If I now learn some keys, "flirc_util settings" will only show the newly learned keys. Is this the intended behaviour? It is possible to circumvent it by saving to a flirc config file prior to unplugging the flirc, and loading the config file after replugging it. Flirc_util will show a complete list of the commands as they were saved, and learning new keys will add to this list. I'm now systematically saving my config to a file and loading it as it easier to have this list (I'm using an MCE remote, which means I need to train all the keys twice due to the MCE's rolling code). Just out of curiosity: Is there a way of getting the full list of learned keys after having unplugged the Flirc? Thanks! Jörg