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Everything posted by jason

  1. Awesome, thanks for the feedback. Page up and page down aren't in there? I'll have to get that in there.
  2. I knew I forgot to post somewhere. I'm so sorry. Please try the following: Make sure you remove the existing flirc devices and then add them again with this update. So sorry, please let me know.
  3. I got stuck on dependencies. But I had something ready, doesn't seem to be working just yet. Will post something as soon as I can. So sorry about that.
  4. Is your harmony that works doing it with Bluetooth?
  5. Posted 4 hours ago · IP (edited I agree with most of your feedback, reply inline: 1) I don't keep my PC in the living room. This needs to be a mobile phone app very badly. So frustrating. So I tried to setup my bedroom TV, which has many, many less devices, just the native fireTV (TV has fireTV built-in) and a shieldTV. Still didn't work due to reasons below. - I don't have a solution for this, it'll come when it comes. That's why we chose react native desktop, so we have an easy path forward. But quite frankly, supporting android is going to be as bad as our windows development has been 2) App is slow, animations are glacial. - Windows performance is horrible, mac is like butter. You'd think microsoft would put more love into their own OS, but we have an entire branch for windows performance fixes and it's much better. It's coming after we fix windows USB bullshit. 3) Getting to button remapping is extraordinarily counterintuitive. You need to go to activities and then click the little right arrow to get there. - We'll open this after the activity is created, or make it so the app forces you too like the wizard, would that help? 4) The "tips" panel on the right appears to have movies from a completely different piece of software. There is no "filter view" etc. C'mon. - There are some small things that are not public, but it's not all that bad. Most is relevant. 5) As mentioned in many other posts, since it doesn't have my devices listed I need to basically check all of them. Since my PC isn't in the living room this is an extremely frustrating experience. 6) Commands are missing. I can't find any way to "home" on the toshiba fireTV in my bedroom. None of the many, many commands labeled "menu", menu main, menu quick, men top, etc, do it. The only way for me to go to the internal fireTV input is to use the "input scroll" command (discovered via laborious trial and error trying EVERY SINGLE INPUT.) I did of course have to try EVERY single toshiba TV listed as well. - What device did you end up picking that is working? Do you have the original remote? Is it IR or bluetooth? 7) Erasing a command is annoying. You need to precisely click on the little trashcan and then hold the button there for a second. Very poor UI, I find myself failed to delete over half the time. There should be a drag handle to reorder, so a single click works to delete. - Yes, believe me, I know. We have this fixed in nightly. Dragging and the duplication bug is fixed too. All this got held up because of windows. After shipping a bunch of units, the app wont connect. Apparently windows wants everyone to use UWP apps, but allows other apps outside of UWP to change the permission of our own USB devices so we can't connect, but provide no way to easily change this back. 8) Since there's no way to give a CEC menu or home command there's no way to go home on the ShieldTV either (as it does not have built-in IR) unless you use a Flirc USB. That isn't necessarily the skip1s's fault, but it is a major obstacle to switching (in that I would not switch). - Why do you need CEC if the firetv is built into the TV? I'm not following, however, I think that if it's a toshiba tv, there must be a code to support this that we have to discover. 9) Even though many models of the ShieldTV don't have IR, the app lets you pick it anyway. This led to a lot of head-scratching for me until I realized what was up. - Some shields have IR. We will list the models so it's not confusing. Would that help? Does yours have IR? Not to be completely negative, in the pros column, syncing is really quick, easy, and works flawlessly. Unfortunately that's the only positive feedback from me. I could go on if I were still trying to use the remote, but at this point I'm giving up until a lot of development goes into the software. This device is not usable for my purposes. I hope the app and the overall experience improves. Until that day comes, it will be sitting in a drawer. - I have to respectfully disagree with your conclusion. While the software needs a lot of work, it's objective is to get your remote setup, and you should never have to mess with it again for 2 years until your setup changes. The hardware is solid. If the software is not permitting you to even get set-up, than I need to help you get past that. Please let me know what I can do.
  6. Thank you. Hang tight, I'm going to make this easier to add codes, but I have so much currently half done. You did the right thing, I recognize them as NEC codes. Give me some time, I'm trying to do a ton of updates at the moment.
  7. I figured it out, updated the files on the links below. Same procedure, remove and add it back. Let me know how that goes: windows and mac build.
  8. I'm going to prioritize learning soon, I'm not quite sure because our database is done without specific models. But as soon as we get the next release out, I'll have the ability to learn as the next feature. Or a reverse lookup.
  9. We're working on a fix and found the problem. Hang tight.
  10. I should have a firmware image really soon to try. Probably tomorrow.
  11. One thing that will help is lowering the brightness of the leds. I have everything full brightness and if it's what you are saying, we can lower the brightness to stop this. I'll post some firmware for you to try to get by tomorrow.
  12. We're going to post an update next week, and I'll have this fixed.
  13. Sorry for being quiet. We've made progress, can reproduce the issue, and are working on trying some solutions. Big shout out to Michael (Misha) who was two steps ahead of us and did incredible finding nuggets of information scattered on the internet. Seems like a number of applications, virus programs, system apps, Steam (yes, fucking steam), changes a field in the system registry for every USB HID Device's "restricted" boolean from "false" to "true". Why? No idea. Uninstalling the application does not revert the registry change, which validates what some of you experienced. Steam can install advanced drivers to help support controllers like XBOX-360, and this is what changes the field for that specific app. We are trying to create a version of the app that detects this, and updates the field. But this is not so simple. UWP apps don't have permission, and we have to do a run-around. But this seems possible, and the path of least resistance. We have some other ideas, but this seems like the best approach. Un. Fucking. Believable.
  14. Do you have the original remote? On the skip, Is there any button on power button to creat a macro or is it just the Samsung power?
  15. I’ll take a look. I’ll be out most of today but should have something to say about it tomorrow.
  16. Oh thank you so much for the kind note and support. I can not tell you how stressed I am with all these issues after a year of testing. A lot of folks don’t understand that just a couple people did all this. The few erratic and hateful emails have received are soul crushing.
  17. We have read bit defender can be the cause, and other protection programs. More troubling, they add to the registry, even after uninstalling, these entries need to be manually removed. Trying to determine if that's the cause, although you can connect, so that's not this for you. @bantar
  18. Hmm. I tested with a gen2 but that shouldn’t make any difference. Let me pull my hair out and think about this. The codes are the same with what harmony sends out. But obviously something is off. Hang on.
  19. One more request: Run this command: pnputil /enum-devices Find a line that looks like Instance ID: <INSTANCE_ID> that matches Flirc's VID/PID (20A0/0008). Copy <INSTANCE_ID> Afterwards run pnputil /enum-devices /stack /instanceid "<INSTANCE_ID>" /relations /resources /drivers /interfaces /properties which will dump a ton of remote device info including the driver stack. Let me know how that goes.
  20. Thank you!. Do you have any here: HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\DeviceClasses Can you also try the following: Was that enabled, and if so, did disabling have any effect on remote detection in the skipapp?
  21. Thanks so much for the helpful feedback, that was great. You can add custom codes now, I just need to document how to do it. It's really easy, you drop codes into a human readable file, and load it into the app. I would like others to share it and I'll incorporate them into updates. If you've found any of the codes, I can put together a tutorial on this. But none of these worked?
  22. I made a mistake, Kodi is pre-pared on flirc out of the box. It just works. First, plug in flirc, fire up the app, File->Format to clear everything. Go to File->Advanced, and make sure the kodi profile is enabled: Go into the skipapp and make sure you actually replace the flirc-kodi device with the new one. Here is a video showing how I left the yellow (original), added a new one, orange, and then deleted the yellow. CleanShot 2023-01-21 at 23.24.52.mp4 Again, in the future, I will clean up when there are updated codes. It will prompt you, "Flirc Kodi codes have been updated, do you want to update your remote codes accordingly, here is what changed, etc". Let me know.
  23. .bin is the regular file that has a random serial no_serial.bin is the one that has no serial number rtt is the one that acts different based on my explanation use the blackmagic_fw.bin one.
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