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@jason Thoughts?

Does the Skip 1s support MediaPortal from its device database, or does it have to be paired with a Flirc to control it?

Hey Jason, thanks for all your work on this. I think I have experienced the issue you posted in the video last page of the forum - remote completely locks up and is unresponsive to button press, usb, etc. To reset all I had to do was unplug USB and pull the batteries out. Then it behaves as normal with the same batteries. Got two toddlers pressing the activity buttons, they must have good timing. Was running 4.12.24, just updated today to 4.12.26

v4.12.26 fixed my lock-up problem. Thank you.

No offense but now I know what they mean by no support :(

It seems the Sony bank (XBR-65X900F) is missing a cursor right option. This is pretty important for navigating the built in Google TV.

I just started using my new skip 1s today. I have a Samsung HW-Q950A soundbar connected via eARC to a LC CX TV (HDMI2). My Apple TV 4K is connected to the HDMI 2 input on the Samsung soundbar. I am trying to set up a Watch Apple TV activity, but even though I have added the Input HDMI2 action for the Samsung soundbar to the Power Up button for the activity, the soundbar does not switch inputs. The device I am using for the Samsung Soundbar is "HW-Q900 Series". I can see that the device is missing the "Source" button that is present in the soundbar's original remote, as it is the way to switch inputs (it cycles through the inputs). Any help will be greatly appreciated.

After roughly 24-48 hours of use my Skip 1s become unresponsive and the LED ring flashes red. I can reflash the firmware etc and get another 24-48 hours of use, but then it become unresponsive etc again. Any way to fix this? Given the Windows software doesn't work alongside Steam, having to reflash the firmware every couple of days is becoming quite frustrating.

Yep. Bottom of the case is plastic and there are enough gaps around the body that wifi has not been a problem ever since onboard wifi was introduced.

I've attached my config, but this has been going on for a while. When I press volume up on the skip, the volume goes up, but it also does a next chapter. Very annoying. Volume down, does just volume down, as expected. Running Skip App 0.9.965, firmware screenshot attached. Flirc app is a v3.27.15, firmware on Flirc shows as v4.10.5 Any ideas? minipc.skip

I couldn't find a solid answer anywhere else, so I figured I would ask the guys who make it. Typically an all metal box hamstrings Wi-Fi signals, so is there enough of a gap to allow it to operate?

When you unplug the remote the leds cut off for a bit.

Definitely weird! I put new batteries in after last week to ensure I had another clean shot at getting any debug logs etc. Again, it's been fine for almost exactly week - tried this morning, and it wasn't responding. Fired up the application, connected the USB, the remote started responding, but the application still showed Offline. Unplugged, and the remote went back to dead. Re-connected, and the application recognised it. The log then simply showed, <2>task_start(41): Hypnos: v4.12.26 <1>malloc_addblock(61): Heap Block: 0x20002BFC - 0x20007BFF (20k) <1>log_rcause(378): BOD33 BOD12 SYST WDT EXT POR <1>log_rcause(385): F F F F F T <1>init_remote(266): Initializing Past Profile: A <3>usb_hotplug(46): Connected <2>default_handler(163): Vol Up pressed <2>default_handler(163): Vol Up released <2>default_handler(163): Vol Down pressed <2>default_handler(163): Vol Down released Same firmware are before :- "proc" returned "{"USB":247094}" and "butt" returned {"Vol Down":{"Released":264566}} I'll keep trying to see if I can get any more information from it - I'll start to use it more and see if that helps?

Need to know if this remote can send custom IR commands to an Apple TV streaming device? I'm specifically interested in red/green/yellow/blue commands, as an app I use can accept those buttons. https://getchannels.com/docs/apps/remote-control/advanced/#harmony-hub-remotes

I've tried everything I can think of, but I think that my Flirc Fire TV Edition is bricked. Installed version v3.27.15 of the Flirc software on Windows 10 Professional and started the gui Connected a brand new Flirc Fire TV Edition; asked if I wanted to upgrade the firmware. Started the upgrade. Upgrade never completed. After 30 minutes, killed the gui. Restarted the gui. Flirc never recognized as connected. Tried plugging into a different port, rebooting. Nothing works. Installed the linux software on Debian 12. Neither the gui nor the flirc_util ever recognize the flirc as connected. The Flirc does not show up on a lsusb listing The Flirc does not show any usb activity in the system log when plugging/unplugging it. (Tried this on a different linux system also). Please help.

Update : after doing some further investigation on another Mac and PC, I believe the issue is that the Alpha 6 build doesn't include the 'learning' firmware ?

I have multiple Flirc USB devices and am generally very happy with their ease of use/reliability. However, I use libreelec and have two machines installed the same way but on different N100 based systems. I have multiple flirc USB devices, all seemingly programmed the same. If I use them on any one of five different machines, they all work. I can unplug one and interchange with another on each system and they all work. However, I have a trigkey n100 system and they just don't work at all. The USB interfaces work fine for keyboards, mice, USB drives, etc... However, I plug in the flirc and its like I didn't plug anything in. I pull out that same dysfunctional flirc and plug it into any of my other machines and it works fine. I've been looking over the BIOS on this machine and there isn't much in here I would think would be relevant. I have re-installed the OS with the flirc connected throughout the install process...nothing. Anyone have any idea why none of my flircs work with this one PC?

Right now volume buttons do nothing.

Mine has also been collecting dust. I decided to take another look and see if progress has been made. It was nice to find the apple tv finally works. The apple tv is connected to the insignia with the fire tv, which I side-loaded SmartTube and would like to have one remote to switch between the two. I found that the Insignia with Roku comes close but I haven't had time to try and fix the button mapping.

I can't seem to get mine to connect or pair with each other, I followed the instructions online for it. Does the Flirc need to be next to the hub or an IR blaster to communicate? It's currently on the back of my HTPC

Jason, just want to chime in and say thanks! I understand this must have been extremely frustrating for you guys as well. Good to have a workaround

Hi, just trying to get the learning working and hit some issues, specifically on firmware update. I'm following the instructions to update the firmware in the link above, but it doesn't give me the option to upgrade (the device goes online very briefly then offline). The info from the manager screen: Remote Model SKIP.1S.RELEASE.A06 Registration Date 04/20/2024 10:44:47 Serial Number 74ECF7EB5055344A352E3120FF12283A Firmware Version 4.12.24-0-g26a2b80 Last sync 04/20/2024 11:06:52

That’s great. I’m working on a more elegant solution at the moment. It will take me a bit of time but I’m in the middle of it.

Thanks for the video and thanks for the solution. Just wanted to chime in and let you know that everything works on my end now as well :)

Hi I don't Know where is the new version... I try a oneforall remote URC 7945, this remote work with code 12236 or 11624 Maybe can help you. Thank's