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i'm using a oneforall remote and experience the same issue, we're in 2025. i have the same issue. this is not fixed yet ? :( Flirc GUI Version v3.27.16 Operating System: Windows *** Device Disconnected *** *** Device Connected *** Firmware Version: v4.10.5 SKU: Flirc 2.0 [dori]

This is for advanced users looking to use an IR remote with a number of software music players. It uses the CLI (command line interface) to program macros to emulate keyboard commands of the music players e.g. LMS, MPD, Roon, JRiver etc. While the focus is on Linux, the same approach should work with Windows and MacOS. https://community.snakeoil-os.net/t/add-ir-remote-control-using-flirc-usb/120

Hello! I need help as I am extremely frustrated. When I bought my Skip 1S Universal Remote Control, I could connect it to my Linux machines just fine, and was able to program them. However, when I recently got a new TV and would have liked to reprogram the remote, I cannot get the AppImage to see that my remote is connected on either of my Linux Mint machines. I am using v. 0.9.993 of the AppImage on Linux Mint Xia on both computers. It simply doesn't see the remote. I have tried uninstalling Steam as some of the other forum topics have suggested, yet it worked with Steam installed before. Please help.

I’ve initiated an RMA request for the device. My Streacom case was sacrificed so I could use its SE and at least that unit works like it should. On a personal note @jason, people pay hard earned money for your products, you can’t just leave them hanging like this without support. It’s not just me, most other forum threads go unresolved. Stand by your product or pull it off the market please.

I just purchased a Hisense QD6 and cannot seems to get any of the "code groups" to work with the Skip1s. Any suggestions?

This is the same issue. Unfortunately, it hasn't been resolved.

Very helpful 11 years later! Ive done the mouse commands on my logitech remote and got them working, how would i do left click, or double left click to open files? Need to do forward slash then double 5 on the keypad i tried putting in their codes but it didnt work

Hi Jason, thanks for responding. I tried directly plugged in to the computer (front, not the preferred method but since the computer is in a cupboard and onboard BT is not working since the chip is located at the back, I doubt it can be plugged in the back usb ports). I also tried an extension cable and hub, all have the same effect. It's a newly built Windows 11 HTPC with a Ryzen CPU (7 7700 if at all relevant). Attached is my config. The device self-tests OK. The SKU is 2.0 Marlin: 3.27.16 FW Version: v4.10.6 SKU: Flirc 2.0 [marlin] Branch: release Config: release Hash: 0x6B1ED7E7 Settings: sleep detection: always enabled noise canceler: always enabled inter-key delay: N/A for current firmware variant: Flirc builtin profiles: NA Memory Info: NA product sku: Flirc 2.0 [marlin] Interestingly enough, the firmware version is newer than the one shipped with the most recent software. Reloading firmware is out of the question, I tried. flirc.fcfg

Is this plugged directly into the computer or ina hub? What kind of computer? I’m really sorry about this. Can you save and share your configuration here. can you also tell me what sku you have? I’ll generate some firmware to troubleshoot this

Hi, I’ve spent the better part of this Sunday on trying to get my new Flirc usb2 to work. At first I thought it was the GUI that was acting up and not saving or losing my stored keys, so I switched to the command line utility. It’s a good thing I saved the config each time because the device seems to suffer from dementia. Plugging it in in another USB port, a reboot, or simply watching a movie for half an hour is sufficient for the device to stop responding and when I look in the settings, all keys are missing. It doesn’t make sense because you’re supposed to be able to program the Flirc itself and take it to another PC. Mine can’t even work consistently on the same computer. This is a Windows 11 machine and the Flirc has the latest firmware. The device log after the latest attempt to use it is this (now it is blank again). <1>malloc_addblock(49): Heap Block: 0x20001CD0 - 0x20003BFF (7k) <3>hashtable_ready(725): IR table CRC Mismatch: 0xB1D4C71B != 0x11DA06B7 <3>ir_hashtable_init(768): hashtable broken, formatting <3>hashtable_ready(270): RB table CRC Mismatch: 0x32EF6B1C != 0xFFFFFFFF <3>iospirit_eep_init(313): hashtable broken, formatting <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges I admit I was getting frustrated and pushed the same button several times in the end, would that explain the “too many edges”? No idea what the other errors mean. Anyway, right now the device is useless at the moment and I hope you can help. Thanks!

I'm using a Logitech Harmony 950 remote control with a Flirc Second Generation USB Receiver to control Kodi v21.2 on a Mac Mini 2018. All functions work correctly, but there is a noticeable lag—for example, when pressing a direction key, the image on the screen responds with about a half-second delay. I have tried many settings in the MyHarmony software, including "Input Delay," "Inter-key Delay," and repeated key press options, but nothing has helped. In the MyHarmony software, I selected the vendor "Flirc" with the model "Kodi," while in the Flirc software, I chose "Full Keyboard." I also updated the Harmony 950 to the latest available firmware: version 4.15.330 with hardware version 01.00. Strangely, I used the same MyHarmony configuration and settings with a Logitech Harmony One+ remote control, and the lag almost completely disappears—even though that remote is less expensive. Does anyone know how to eliminate this annoying lag with the Harmony 950 remote?

How long did you have the bad one?

Hi everyone, I’m using the Flirc case for the Raspberry Pi 5 and love its passive-cooling design, but I’ve run into two small issues that I hope the community can help me solve: Power Button Too Short When assembling the case, you slot the tiny side-mounted power button into place before securing the Pi with the screws. On my unit, that button barely protrudes once everything is tightened, so it’s hard to press without digging a fingernail in. Has anyone designed (or found) a 3-D printable extender or replacement button that sticks out a little further? If you’ve already printed one, could you share the STL file or point me to a repo/Thingiverse link? Alternatively, does anyone sell a slightly longer drop-in power button for this case? Custom Top Cover The stock top plate—the matte black lid—looks nice, but I’d like to customize it (add ventilation slots, logo cut-outs, or even a clear acrylic top to show off LEDs). Are there any existing templates for a replacement top panel that fits the Flirc Pi 5 chassis? If you’ve created your own, what material and thickness worked best, and did you need to tweak mounting tolerances? Any tips, STL files, or photos of your mods would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Cheers,

was thinking the same. Thanks

Look up IR repeater on Amazon. One of these should fit your needs.

Hi, I don't know how this will sound but here goes: so got a mini PC accessible in two locations via a USB HDMI KVM that essentially enables me to remote into the machine like as one would using Anydesk or Teamviewer only that this is on a hardware basis. So, in one location I access the PC directly and in another via the said device complete with a monior, keyboard and mouse. I believe you already are familiar with this. What I now want to do is to be able to access the flirc in the second location using my remote since one needs to be within range of the flirc device. Is this possible? How would I go about it if so? Hope all this makes sense.

I did the same test as the OP. The first example is the FLIRC, it averages 224ms but sometimes shorter. Same PC, same MCE RC6 remote, but with a standard MCE Receiver: The key presses on the MCE receiver are not only shorter but extremely consistent

Just posting to add that I've experienced exactly the same issue, again with an old Flirc 2.0 that I hadn't used for some time. Same unit test failure, exactly the same symptoms as above. I've already ordered a replacement from Amazon, just posting here in case the data point is useful.

Try the firetv or shield profile. Those should work. Let me know.

Just to add a +1 seeing this issue. I’m using a flirc firetv edition with a harmony remote, but the enter/ok button does not work in some specific applications. its working fine within the main device menus and most other apps. so either the issue is with the firetv itself, or some apps are not responding to the same remote codes. @jason did you ever get to the bottom of this with your previous investigation?

Just wanted to say, I was unable to connect my remote for many months, finally just found this post and this fixed it today. I was using the latest software, and I was also getting the constant UAC prompts. I had Steam installed, tried uninstalling that, didn't fix the issue. I was never brought to a page with these instructions unfortunately, but I'm glad I finally have it fixed! I wish Windows wasn't always such a PITA.

Posting the raw data from the green button on my DENON AVR-X4200W that I have mapped to alt-tab in the flirc usb: Sun May 18 2025 11:37:17 Flirc GUI Version v3.27.16 Operating System: Windows -24581000 +3353 -1616 +486 -313 +460 -338 +457 -1175 +452 -373 +426 -1175 +456 -369 +430 -1176 +452 -373 +426 -380 +419 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -373 +426 -1175 +456 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -369 +430 -369 +430 -369 +425 -369 +431 -342 +452 -374 +425 -369 +431 -1224 +407 -343 +452 -1175 +477 -349 +430 -342 +452 -374 +425 -1176 +456 -343 +471 -328 +452 -1175 +456 -343 +456 -343 +452 -1175 +457 -342 +457 -1175 +457 -342 +452 -369 +430 -343 +456 -1176 +452 -373 +426 -1175 +456 -343 +456 -343 +452 -343 +456 -14 +456 -343 +452 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -1176 +456 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -369 +426 -369 +430 -1175 +457 -343 +452 -369 +430 -1175 +457 -1175 +456 -343 +452 -343 +456 -343 +456 -369 +426 -343 +456 -343 +452 -373 +426 -342 +457 -1175 +457 -368 +426 -1175 +457 -342 +457 -355 +439 -374 +425 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -374 +482 -313 +456 -343 +452 -1179 +453 -373 +426 -1175 +457 -342 +457 -1175 +452 -373 +426 -369 +426 -1180 +452 -373 +426 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -1175 +452 -374 +425 -369 +431 -368 +426 -374 +426 -368 +431 -369 +425 -374 +426 -368 +431 -1175 +452 -373 +426 -1176 +456 -386 +413 -343 +452 -373 +426 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -374 +425 -1174 +426 -343 +457 -338 +457 -1175 +457 -369 +425 -1180 +453 -369 +430 -1175 +457 -369 +426 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -369 +426 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -1176 +456 -369 +426 -369 +430 -343 +452 -373 +426 -369 +430 -343 +452 -369 +431 -342 +452 -1180 +452 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -369 +430 -343 +452 -1180 +452 -369 +430 -343 +457 -1175 +452 -369 +430 -343 +457 -1175 +452 -369 +430 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -401 +398 -343 +456 -1176 +452 -373 +426 -1176 +456 -343 +452 -373 +426 -343 +456 -1176 +452 -1176 +456 -74000 +3310 -1659 +487 -312 +461 -339 +456 -1175 +471 -355 +426 -1184 +447 -369 +431 -1175 +459 -366 +426 -369 +430 -1176 +452 -373 +426 -369 +470 -1136 +456 -1175 +453 -368 +431 -342 +457 -368 +426 -369 +430 -343 +452 -373 +426 -343 +456 -343 +452 -1176 +456 -369 +430 -1175 +457 -368 +426 -369 +430 -343 +452 -1180 +452 -373 +426 -343 +456 -1176 +452 -374 +425 -343 +457 -1175 +452 -374 +426 -1175 +457 -342 +452 -374 +426 -342 +457 -1175 +452 -373 +426 -1175 +457 -342 +457 -369 +426 -342 +457 -1175 +456 -1176 +452 Here is the recoded green button on my DENON AVR-X4200W to the Skip s1: Sun May 18 2025 11:42:53 Flirc GUI Version v3.27.16 Operating System: Windows -21024000 +3485 -1638 +456 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1206 +452 -351 +452 -1206 +457 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -351 +453 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1205 +452 -1206 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -347 +456 -365 +456 -352 +452 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -347 +457 -1201 +456 -352 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -356 +457 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -347 +457 -347 +457 -1201 +457 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -356 +456 -1202 +456 -347 +457 -1205 +457 -347 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -1206 +443 -41000 +3489 -1633 +467 -336 +457 -347 +456 -1206 +474 -339 +456 -1202 +456 -351 +452 -1217 +446 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1201 +456 -352 +452 -351 +453 -1205 +457 -1201 +457 -347 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -352 +452 -351 +452 -352 +452 -1206 +482 -343 +452 -1206 +456 -348 +456 -347 +42 +457 -351 +452 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -365 +456 -1206 +452 -352 +456 -1202 +456 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1205 +452 -352 +456 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -1206 +452 -351 +452 -352 +452 -351 +452 -352 +452 -351 +457 -347 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -1201 +457 -368 +457 -1201 +457 -347 +456 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1205 +452 -352 +456 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -347 +457 -360 +452 -1238 +424 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -347 +456 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1205 +457 -347 +456 -1201 +457 -347 +456 -347 +456 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -1202 +443 -41000 +3488 -1633 +476 -332 +452 -351 +452 -1206 +483 -338 +456 -1202 +456 -351 +452 -1217 +446 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1201 +456 -352 +452 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -1201 +457 -351 +452 -351 +452 -371 +433 -351 +456 -347 +456 -347 +475 -359 +456 -347 +457 -1201 +456 -347 +457 -1205 +452 -352 +456 -347 +456 -362 +442 -1201 +456 -348 +516 -287 +456 -1206 +456 -348 +456 -347 +456 -1202 +456 -347 +457 -1237 +425 -347 +456 -347 +457 -347 +464 -1194 +456 -351 +452 -1206 +456 -347 +457 -347 +456 -347 +457 -1222 +435 -1206 +444 The Skip repeats the command the Denon does not. Any help would be most appreciated.

I found how to enable admin here: Used Sysinternals Process Monitor to track down skip version I'm running https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/procmon#download Dropped config.json here C:\Users\Beaker\AppData\Local\Packages\SkipApp_nk6j7xazwq5t8\LocalState\ and restart skip. Admin tab very cool.

Update on this: I successfully mapped my remote to the appropriate keyboard binding for the Steam button and Quick Access keyboard bindings using the Flirc receiver app. Why the Skip 1s App doesn't have all the features of that app is beyond me. It should have it. In the meantime have both apps for better customization of buttons. Bazzite, has fixed the issue where the keyboard bindings (CTRL+1, CTRL+2) don't work when you are in a game/app. Valve has not on their SteamOS. my_flirc_config

Hi to All, Doing a little debugging. Capture button from Denon green I have mapped to atl-tab with flirc usb and then captured button from skip s1 mapped to recorded denon green button. Using Flirc usb devicelog with enable IR debugging checked to capture raw data and porting it to AnalysIR to debug. Hex for both are identical Hex 2A 4C 02 89 28 A3 2A 4C 02 89 28 A3 When I review the raw data I see what looks like the data being sent twice for both remotes. The difference is the the pause between the 2nd command. The denon is 74000 microseconds. and the Skip s1 is much faster at 42000 microseconds. To fast? New to debugging IR so take it with a grain of salt. Also noticed pulses were different Denon Green button Protocol JAPANESE Value 2A4C028928A3 Value_2 # Bits 48 # Pulses 300 Carrier (Hz) 0 Skip Protocol JAPANESE Value 2A4C028928A3 Value_2 # Bits 48 # Pulses 200 Carrier (Hz) 0 .