Brigitte

I returned it and am now using the Flirc SE. A real pity that unit is no longer available. With my Fractal Ridge I didn’t even have to mod the front, it’s working through the fabric and can turn the pc on and off as a bonus.

Glad you got it working in the end. For the sake of future visitors, do you remember how you managed to fix it?

The shop in the Netherlands where I purchased it.

I’ve initiated an RMA request for the device. My Streacom case was sacrificed so I could use its SE and at least that unit works like it should. On a personal note @jason, people pay hard earned money for your products, you can’t just leave them hanging like this without support. It’s not just me, most other forum threads go unresolved. Stand by your product or pull it off the market please.

This is the same issue. Unfortunately, it hasn't been resolved.

Hi Jason, thanks for responding. I tried directly plugged in to the computer (front, not the preferred method but since the computer is in a cupboard and onboard BT is not working since the chip is located at the back, I doubt it can be plugged in the back usb ports). I also tried an extension cable and hub, all have the same effect. It's a newly built Windows 11 HTPC with a Ryzen CPU (7 7700 if at all relevant). Attached is my config. The device self-tests OK. The SKU is 2.0 Marlin: 3.27.16 FW Version: v4.10.6 SKU: Flirc 2.0 [marlin] Branch: release Config: release Hash: 0x6B1ED7E7 Settings: sleep detection: always enabled noise canceler: always enabled inter-key delay: N/A for current firmware variant: Flirc builtin profiles: NA Memory Info: NA product sku: Flirc 2.0 [marlin] Interestingly enough, the firmware version is newer than the one shipped with the most recent software. Reloading firmware is out of the question, I tried. flirc.fcfg

Hi, I’ve spent the better part of this Sunday on trying to get my new Flirc usb2 to work. At first I thought it was the GUI that was acting up and not saving or losing my stored keys, so I switched to the command line utility. It’s a good thing I saved the config each time because the device seems to suffer from dementia. Plugging it in in another USB port, a reboot, or simply watching a movie for half an hour is sufficient for the device to stop responding and when I look in the settings, all keys are missing. It doesn’t make sense because you’re supposed to be able to program the Flirc itself and take it to another PC. Mine can’t even work consistently on the same computer. This is a Windows 11 machine and the Flirc has the latest firmware. The device log after the latest attempt to use it is this (now it is blank again). <1>malloc_addblock(49): Heap Block: 0x20001CD0 - 0x20003BFF (7k) <3>hashtable_ready(725): IR table CRC Mismatch: 0xB1D4C71B != 0x11DA06B7 <3>ir_hashtable_init(768): hashtable broken, formatting <3>hashtable_ready(270): RB table CRC Mismatch: 0x32EF6B1C != 0xFFFFFFFF <3>iospirit_eep_init(313): hashtable broken, formatting <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges <3>ir_finished(72): too many edges I admit I was getting frustrated and pushed the same button several times in the end, would that explain the “too many edges”? No idea what the other errors mean. Anyway, right now the device is useless at the moment and I hope you can help. Thanks!

Hi, Just wanted to share my problems getting Flirc to work with a Harmony Elite and hub/blasters. Maybe it can save someone from countless hours of fiddling, which is what I had to do. Setup: - Windows 10 Pro - Flirc Streacom edition - Streacom case in a cupboard - Harmony Elite with hub and blasters - Flirc/Kodi profile in the Harmony software Problem: First, I checked the mapping of the Harmony keys in the Harmony software (they keys were based on Flirc Media Player). Out of the box the Flirc software didn't respond to the Harmony key presses so I had to record the keys. This is odd in itself, I believe. It then turned out that the Harmony sent multiple (and I mean up to four!) different signals for each key. I tried recording the second (and third and fourth) presses in the Flirc software, but that didn't work as the signals got mixed up (e.g. pause was space three times and P the fourth). However, in the command line (flirc_utils keys) all key presses had different codes. I tried noise cancellation on and off, a different profile in the Harmony software (media center PC) and other remotes (MCE, TV) with no success. As the Flirc is built into the case, it was too much of a hassle to try it with another PC. I also assigned the particular blaster to the activity in the Harmony software, didn't work either and even tried it with the cupboard open. Solution: Yet another remote (OPPO bluray) proved the solution. Using the full keyboard in Flirc, I programmed the buttons with the OPPO remote and I then proceeded to teach the keypresses of the OPPO to the Harmony using the Harmony software. Setting the Inter Key Delay in the Flirc software to 2 or 3 made navigation run smoothly. It's a ridiculously complicated procedure, which I'm convinced is due to the Harmony or blaster as Flirc is now running fine.

Thanks Tullius. My Harmony does not have a sleep button, unfortunately. The problem with the Ultimate seems to be that the "Off"-button is not recognized by Flirc.

Nailed it, hope I didn't opt for a needlessly complicated procedure but I have yet to find a simpler solution. Create a Flirc device in the Harmony software (Flirc/Kodi) and create an activity for this device.Note that Logitech adds a "power off" action (on screen in my Ultimate) that actually turns on the PC.Create a shortcut to the command %windir%\system32\shutdown.exe -s -t 5Pin this shortcut to the taskbar in e.g. position 1 next to the start button.In the Flirc software, link any unused button on the Harmony remote to "Win X" (available in the "full keyboard" preset), with X being the position chosen in step 4. In my case I opted to link Win 1 to the button "blue".In the Harmony software, go to the Flirc device and change the power settings. In my case I had to opt for two buttons for on/off and link the Logitech default "power off" to Power on and the blue button to Power off.As always, YMMV, this works for my Logitech Harmony Ultimate and a Flirc SE using Windows 7 64 bit.

Hi everyone, First off, best wishes for 2016! I recently purchased a Streacom case and a Flirc SE addon card, to use with my Logitech Harmony Ultimate. In the Harmony software I set up a Flirc device with Kodi as the model. At first, the PC wouldn't start, but then I found that the command Logitech had added automatically ("Shutdown PC") was actually the proper command to turn on the PC. I switched the power settings in the Harmony software and now the remote can start the PC. However, I've been unable to use the remote to shutdown the PC, the computer is simply not responding. It is running Windows 7 and the "what happens when I press the power button" is set to the default "shutdown". I tried recording the power button using the commandline and flirc_util, but this breaks something, the PC will no longer start up. Any ideas? A second issue I'm having is that the power button on the remote now starts two PCs. Is there a way to differentiate between the two computers? The second computer has an IMON display/IR receiver. Any help is appreciated.