About to give up

[Brigitte]

Hi,

I’ve spent the better part of this Sunday on trying to get my new Flirc usb2 to work. At first I thought it was the GUI that was acting up and not saving or losing my stored keys, so I switched to the command line utility. It’s a good thing I saved the config each time because the device seems to suffer from dementia. Plugging it in in another USB port, a reboot, or simply watching a movie for half an hour is sufficient for the device to stop responding and when I look in the settings, all keys are missing. It doesn’t make sense because you’re supposed to be able to program the Flirc itself and take it to another PC. Mine can’t even work consistently on the same computer. 

This is a Windows 11 machine and the Flirc has the latest firmware. The device log after the latest attempt to use it is this (now it is blank again). 

<1>malloc_addblock(49): Heap Block: 0x20001CD0 - 0x20003BFF (7k)
<3>hashtable_ready(725): IR table CRC Mismatch: 0xB1D4C71B != 0x11DA06B7
<3>ir_hashtable_init(768): hashtable broken, formatting
<3>hashtable_ready(270): RB table CRC Mismatch: 0x32EF6B1C != 0xFFFFFFFF
<3>iospirit_eep_init(313): hashtable broken, formatting
<3>ir_finished(72): too many edges
<3>ir_finished(72): too many edges
<3>ir_finished(72): too many edges
<3>ir_finished(72): too many edges

I admit I was getting frustrated and pushed the same button several times in the end, would that explain the “too many edges”? No idea what the other errors mean.

Anyway, right now the device is useless at the moment and I hope you can help. Thanks!

Edited June 22 by Brigitte
Typo

[jason]

Is this plugged directly into the computer or ina hub? What kind of computer? I’m really sorry about this. Can you save and share your configuration here. 
 

can you also tell me what sku you have? I’ll generate some firmware to troubleshoot this 

[Brigitte]

Hi Jason, thanks for responding. 

I tried directly plugged in to the computer (front, not the preferred method but since the computer is in a cupboard and onboard BT is not working since the chip is located at the back, I doubt it can be plugged in the back usb ports). I also tried an extension cable and hub, all have the same effect. It's a newly built Windows 11 HTPC with a Ryzen CPU (7 7700 if at all relevant).

Attached is my config. The device self-tests OK. 

The SKU is 2.0 Marlin: 

3.27.16
FW Version: v4.10.6
   SKU:     Flirc 2.0 [marlin]
   Branch:  release
   Config:  release
   Hash:    0x6B1ED7E7

Settings:
  sleep detection:  always enabled
  noise canceler:   always enabled
  inter-key delay:  N/A for current firmware
  variant:          Flirc
  builtin profiles: NA
  Memory Info:      NA
  product sku:      Flirc 2.0 [marlin]

Interestingly enough, the firmware version is newer than the one shipped with the most recent software. Reloading firmware is out of the question, I tried. 

flirc.fcfg

[Brigitte]

This is the same issue. Unfortunately, it hasn't been resolved.

 

[Brigitte]

I’ve initiated an RMA request for the device. My Streacom case was sacrificed so I could use its SE and at least that unit works like it should. 
On a personal note @jason, people pay hard earned money for your products, you can’t just leave them hanging like this without support. It’s not just me, most other forum threads go unresolved. Stand by your product or pull it off the market please. 

[Want_it_to_work]

On 6/27/2025 at 1:19 PM, Brigitte said:

I’ve initiated an RMA request for the device. My Streacom case was sacrificed so I could use its SE and at least that unit works like it should. 
On a personal note @jason, people pay hard earned money for your products, you can’t just leave them hanging like this without support. It’s not just me, most other forum threads go unresolved. Stand by your product or pull it off the market please. 

You were lucky that Jason responded so quickly. It took 3 weeks before I got a response via email and equally as long to join the forum because it did not send the confirmation email.

Through trial and error, and without support, I managed to get mine working (running on Win 11 Dell laptop and also Ubuntu 24.04 on Pi5. I used the CLI because I was using macros.  Hence my user name!

When the Flirc USB works, it does a good job.  But I can understand people's frustration when it does not work and there is no support.  Unfortunately, this has been going on for a long time, so buy with your eyes open and be prepared to experiment without support...

[jason]

On 6/26/2025 at 8:19 PM, Brigitte said:

I’ve initiated an RMA request for the device. My Streacom case was sacrificed so I could use its SE and at least that unit works like it should. 
On a personal note @jason, people pay hard earned money for your products, you can’t just leave them hanging like this without support. It’s not just me, most other forum threads go unresolved. Stand by your product or pull it off the market please. 

Where did you initiate an RMA?

[Brigitte]

The shop in the Netherlands where I purchased it. 

Edited July 3 by Brigitte

[Brigitte]

19 hours ago, Want_it_to_work said:

Through trial and error, and without support, I managed to get mine working (running on Win 11 Dell laptop and also Ubuntu 24.04 on Pi5. I used the CLI because I was using macros.  Hence my user name!

Glad you got it working in the end. For the sake of future visitors, do you remember how you managed to fix it?

 

[Want_it_to_work]

7 hours ago, Brigitte said:

Glad you got it working in the end. For the sake of future visitors, do you remember how you managed to fix it?

I wanted it to work, trying both Windows and Linux, GUI and CLI, and 2 different remotes.  I am happy with the results but not pleased with the effort, and lack of support, to get there.

I posted my results here on the forum with a link to detailed documentation on how to set things up. It may help others to use the CLI. The GUI cannot do macros to emulate a keyboard for a software music player.

In your case, I suspect you have a faulty device, but it may be too late for you to try again? 

[jason]

On 7/3/2025 at 5:31 PM, Want_it_to_work said:

The GUI cannot do macros to emulate a keyboard for a software music player.

You can. First record the first key normally.

Then go to the GUI. File->Advanced.

Then change the recording mode to macro. Now record the same button on your remote. Rather than getting a 'key already exists' error, you should be able to keep recording on that key. Same goes for long press.

Sorry, I just checked, I thought that was in the manual. It's going to get updated soon. I had to drop gitbook, they lost my manual, and I can't edit it. So I had to re-write it in docusaurus.

On 7/3/2025 at 5:31 PM, Want_it_to_work said:

I am happy with the results but not pleased with the effort, and lack of support, to get there.

I'm really sorry, I fucked up and let you guys down. I'll do better.

On 7/3/2025 at 5:31 PM, Want_it_to_work said:

In your case, I suspect you have a faulty device, but it may be too late for you to try again? 

Sounds like it was replaced. I heard of the 'memory' issue one other time. Waiting for a device to reproduce it. I was hoping @Brigitte still had it.

[Brigitte]

I returned it and am now using the Flirc SE. A real pity that unit is no longer available. With my Fractal Ridge I didn’t even have to mod the front, it’s working through the fabric and can turn the pc on and off as a bonus.