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I'm trying to use sendir to send volume up and volume down commands to my AMP. The commands are RC-5 16 and 17 with system code 16. How can I convert these codes into a pattern that sendir understands? Is there are way to record the commands from the existing remote and just play them back on linux?

GUI Universal Build, 1.3.6 Firmware 3.6 Controllers: Full Keyboard Mac Yosemite 10.10.2 Mac OEM Wireless Key Board MacMini Just upgraded to the new gui 1.3.6 and Firmware. The Command and Control keys are still reversed. For example when I press Command + anykey the Control +anykey pressed lights up in the GUI. When I press Control + anykey the Command + anykey pressed lights up in the GUI. Also, in an earlier build the Command or Control key would light up (by itself) as soon as it was pressed. Now the special key won't light until the paired key is pressed along with it. It was a lot more friendly the other way.

GUI Universal Build, 1.3.6 Firmware 3.6 Controllers: Full Keyboard Mac Yosemite 10.10.2 Mac OEM Wireless Key Board MacMini Just upgraded to the new gui 1.3.6 and Firmware. The Command and Control keys are still reversed. For example when I press Command + anykey the Control +anykey pressed lights up in the GUI. When I press Control + anykey the Command + anykey pressed lights up in the GUI. Also, in an earlier build the Command or Control key would light up (by itself) as soon as it was pressed. Now the special key won't light until the paired key is pressed along with it. It was a lot more friendly the other way.

You can't brick it. Message is erroneous. You probably just needed to re-run the command as sudo.

Android TV was launched last year and there will be more device coming using this platform. Flirc will gain alot of popularity on Android TV by adding many additional commands that factory devices do not provide. Unfortunately, Flirc is missing an important command that all Android TV devices use: Media Home key. Android TV uses this key to exit and go back to home screen from any apps. There is workaround (esc+tab) but it is not true Home key. any plans to add this command?

Hello, I'm looking to control two Cox STBs at a bar using two FLIRCs on the same computer via the command line in Windows 11. The STBs will be the same model, and so I'm wondering if the FLIRC command line has an ability to send IR commands to specific USB ports, com port names, or something like that which would help me then let the customer pick which STB they want to change channels on. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I really want to use this skip remote but im having a single issue thats preventing me. My harmony remote has separate buttons for pause/play and my cable box has a pause and a play button no pause/play toggle so you can see my issue. I configured the pause/play button with both pause and play but the remote doesnt know if its already paused or playing so when i hit the button it just repeats the command. If im paused, it stays paused, if im playing it stays playing. or it gets stuck in-between and i cant pause or play. I have tried other solutions online which were to make it play only or pause only because some cable boxs are toggle by default if one is selected. This doesn't work with my cable box. DCX3501-M If there was a way to make it so the remote knows if its paused, then it could play and visa versa. Any ideas?

Hello, I am using a mid-2014 rMBP running 11.7.10. I have downloaded the app .dmg, opened it, and dragged the application into my applications folder. After rebooting, I tried opening the app and I get a crash w/ segmentation fault. I've never had difficulty using a mac .dmg before... This is what comes up in the command window: /Applications/SkipApp.app/Contents/MacOS/SkipApp ; exit; Segmentation fault: 11 logout Saving session... ...copying shared history... ...saving history...truncating history files... ...completed. [Process completed]

This may need a look. MCE /eHome use a different command for the second command, and if that second different command isn't registered, it might not respond. It was an issue back in the day with Flirc USB. I'm going to move this to the supported devices forum for more feedback.

You can not map the letter k in CLI with the record command. It throws an invalid key error.

My remote interface remote buttons can not be "held down" to create a long press. For example, I was hoping to be able to use one ir signal for the skip forward and a different IR signal for the long press to get fast forward thereby splitting the skip forward and fastforward in to two different buttons. However, Flirc will not let you store a different IR command for the long press than what is stored for the short press. Is this something that could be fixed?

@vavila You inspired me to dust off the remote and take another pass. I seem to be stuck at the same point as I was at months ago. I can switch everything on but it doesn't sent the input correctly. I can't figure out how to have it send out an HDMI input command to switch to the input that the Roku is plugged into. I tried everything I could think of in the app but nothing gets me there. I posted a new message on this issue. I didn't see anything in the other posts that helped but I will keep looking.

Ok I am trying to program the flirc with the pause button on the PS4 (as my research suggest the pause button functions just like the ps button). I can not for the life of me get it to work. I navigate to the flirc folder in program files (x86) in my drive type the following: flirc_util record pause Hit enter which seems to do nothing command line just goes back to the flirc folder not sure if I'm supposed to see feedback from the flirc_util,I then hit the button on the remote that I want to program to pause, hit that button, and it doesn't register as a key press. I have tried several times, tried running cmd as administrator, etc. and I just cannot get it to work... what am I missing? UPDATE: Have officially tried using the api for the pause/break button and it still doesn't work I"m about to start pulling my hair out here because if i can't get this to work this device will be completely useless to me. I really need to try and find a way to get this to work with ps4

Here is the full listing of Pronto hex codes for Flirc. I used the specification provided by Jason to write an command line utility to generate Pronto hex codes. I've tested them on my Nvidia Shield and they seem to work fine. I was able to control the Shield by directly sending Flirc commands with my IP to IR flasher and not requiring any configuation of Flirc, it's just plug and play. This should make things easier for those that have more sophisticated IR controllers. I've attached the listings of all the codes for each device. I've even included commands that don't exist yet. Use the Flirc IR Documentation (above) to find the command you want then look up the code for it using the device ID and command ID. The Pronto codes follow the command identifier in square brackets. Here is the link to my utility on gihub: https://github.com/rossmacgregor/FlircProntoCodes FlircProntoCodes.zip

I have been using my Flirc for a month or so and it has worked brilliantly, except... My problem is double key presses. My configuration won't help any as I am using a Skippa remote to control an IceBox. What's a Skippa and an Icebox, I hear you say? The Skippa is a PVR (now dead) that is unique to an Australian company called IceTV that provides a unique EPG service that allows you to set recordings on the PVR from anywhere with cellular service. The IceBox is a later version that is based on a NUC running LIBREelec and Kodi software as well as an IceTV plugin that allows the IceBox to communicate with the IceTV service. The IceBox came with an RF remote out of the box, which didn't suit my setup which uses InfraRed extenders to allow the various entertainment devices to controlled throughout the house. It's all actually more complex than that, but I doubt anyone will make sense of the setup. My solution to integrate the IceBox into the setup was to record the keys from the Skippa remote to a Flirc and use a plug it into the IceBox. A key point is that the Skippa remote I am using is not configurable. It is an out of the box remote, i.e. not a programmable device. As I said it all works brilliantly, except for the double key presses. When I press the '2' button on the remote the IceBox sees '22'. I immediately recognized the problem. The Flirc was responding to the multiple '2' pulses, that the remote generates with a single press of the key, and pushes out what it receives. The biggest problem is the Pause/Play button, i.e. a Pause is immediately followed by a Play. I have researched the issue in the forum and quickly found threads where the problem was discussed, and the solution was to adjust the Interkey delay on the Flirc. Unfortunately, in the current version (Build 2?) this adjustment of the Interkey Delay is no longer available. I saw a suggestion to use the Command Line "interkey_delay" command available with "flirc_util.exe", so I hunted around and found out how to do this but got the response "inter-key delay: N/A for current firmware". Can anyone explain why the Interkey Delay capability has been dropped? It seems to be such a logical function to have. I also note that every time someone raises interkey delay for Build 2 Flircs, all conversation stops. This makes no sense to me. I can understand that the function has been withdrawn for some reason, but why not just say so? I have yet to find a thread where the withdrawal has been explained. Of course, if someone can point me to a solution that would be greatly appreciated, but I have little expectation of one.

No problem, just good timing on when you posted. I guess you expected the new app, to block the skip software from connecting, in a similar way that the logitech service does. And I guess that proves you can grab sole control over the remote when they are plugged in without asking for extra permissions. Very happy to test any versions as you need (timezones permitting of course will depend on the speed of the answer). PS those commands I mentioned are one of the worst case options, next to doing it manually in the service panel, they just need sticking in a batch file (or run from a command prompt) as long as it has admin privileges - it will just stop and then block the service.

Sorry timezones and such make answering slow at times.. Happy to test anything you have, but to be honest we have a solution, just add that to the faq. Or give them a batch file that if run as admin stops the service and then disables it. A quick test these are the lines people would need to run in a admin command prompt. net stop logi_lamparray_service sc config logi_lamparray_service start= disabled And sc query logi_lamparray_service checks if its running. Still waking up, but could be thrown into a batch file, or I assume you can call this within an app. As said I think you have spent too much of your precious time fixing windows issues, to do much more than have a faq somewhere. But if you have something happy to test and feedback.

Having finally made my remote connect via a USB-C to USB-A adapter, I have a bunch of feedback on the app in both UI and functionality. I'm coming from Harmony which also has an _excruciatingly_ bad UI so I'm used to that, although the skip UI managed to be just as bad in completely different ways. It's the missing functionality that renders it unusable for me. My feedback comes in no particular order, stream of consciousness as I messed around with it this afternoon. 1) I don't keep my PC in the living room. This needs to be a mobile phone app very badly. So frustrating. So I tried to setup my bedroom TV, which has many, many less devices, just the native fireTV (TV has fireTV built-in) and a shieldTV. Still didn't work due to reasons below. 2) App is slow, animations are glacial. 3) Getting to button remapping is extraordinarily counterintuitive. You need to go to activities and then click the little right arrow to get there. 4) The "tips" panel on the right appears to have movies from a completely different piece of software. There is no "filter view" etc. C'mon. 5) As mentioned in many other posts, since it doesn't have my devices listed I need to basically check all of them. Since my PC isn't in the living room this is an extremely frustrating experience. 6) Commands are missing. I can't find any way to "home" on the toshiba fireTV in my bedroom. None of the many, many commands labeled "menu", menu main, menu quick, men top, etc, do it. The only way for me to go to the internal fireTV input is to use the "input scroll" command (discovered via laborious trial and error trying EVERY SINGLE INPUT.) I did of course have to try EVERY single toshiba TV listed as well. 7) Erasing a command is annoying. You need to precisely click on the little trashcan and then hold the button there for a second. Very poor UI, I find myself failed to delete over half the time. There should be a drag handle to reorder, so a single click works to delete. 8) Since there's no way to give a CEC menu or home command there's no way to go home on the ShieldTV either (as it does not have built-in IR) unless you use a Flirc USB. That isn't necessarily the skip1s's fault, but it is a major obstacle to switching (in that I would not switch). 9) Even though many models of the ShieldTV don't have IR, the app lets you pick it anyway. This led to a lot of head-scratching for me until I realized what was up. Not to be completely negative, in the pros column, syncing is really quick, easy, and works flawlessly. Unfortunately that's the only positive feedback from me. I could go on if I were still trying to use the remote, but at this point I'm giving up until a lot of development goes into the software. This device is not usable for my purposes. I hope the app and the overall experience improves. Until that day comes, it will be sitting in a drawer.

I found a way to do sort of do this in case you are comfortable using the CLI. (I'm also surprised this is not a native feature!) First, go to Flirc GUI and there go to File > Device Log. Turn on the Enable IR debugging checkbox and press a key on your remote against the Flirc receiver. There will be a number of new lines. Ignore the ones starting with a colon and look for a line with a long sequence of numbers separated by commas. Note that this line will most likely be wrapped around into multiple lines and it usually (maybe always?) starts with a zero - the zero is the first number of that sequence but the line will likely break right after it. Cope the whole sequence into your keyboard. Next up, find where the Flirc CLI is on your system, on macOS it is in /Applications/Flirc.app/Contents/Resources. Use your terminal to enter this directory and in it, run this command substituting your actual pattern from the Flirc GUI: ./flirc_util sendir --pattern="0,…" This will replay the recorded sequence using the IR transmitter in Flirc. I was able to verify this works by using a remote-controlled LED strip and recording one of the color buttons and then changing the color to something else with the remote and replaying the original color IR sequence using Flirc CLI and the LED strip consistently switched back to the recorded color. Hope this helps anyone! And also hope Flirc will kick the support up a notch, it almost seems like the product is abandoned :/ Which is a shame, because it is genuinely great.

The Flirc has some great features and *can* be relatively easy to use. However, without documentation of any kind, I must start actively recommending fellow hardware users in various hardware forums I participate in to avoid purchasing the Flirc (I have been actively pushing the Flirc for various devices for over a year up to this point). I can't understand how anyone can release hardware of this potentially advanced nature without any documentation whatsoever. Even as a one man shop, documentation should be of the highest priority in any hardware and software released for public consumption. Take the command line utility flirc_util.exe. It seems to be very powerful and is often given as the cryptic answer for various issues all over this forum. Cryptic is the key: without documentation, how is anyone supposed to guess at its actual workings? A perfect example is the record_api fucntion.. I've seen 10's of threads asking how to record the "menu" key for various hardware. The answer is often given as use flirc_util's record_api fuction. Wonderful that the developer has created such a utility that can solve those kinds of issues, but without documentation it is limited to his own use and a cabal of a few other advanced users only. I'm not trying to bash the Flirc in any way... I see it as a wonderful piece of hardware with great potential and easy use for limited applications. I am a realist, however, and the conclusion of that realism is: without documentation the Flirc is more of a potentially frustrating curiosity than an actual tool for many people. Please document both the GUI and, most important, the command line utility for those that actually need to go beyond an extremely simple setup. Thank you.

Posted 4 hours ago · IP (edited I agree with most of your feedback, reply inline: 1) I don't keep my PC in the living room. This needs to be a mobile phone app very badly. So frustrating. So I tried to setup my bedroom TV, which has many, many less devices, just the native fireTV (TV has fireTV built-in) and a shieldTV. Still didn't work due to reasons below. - I don't have a solution for this, it'll come when it comes. That's why we chose react native desktop, so we have an easy path forward. But quite frankly, supporting android is going to be as bad as our windows development has been 2) App is slow, animations are glacial. - Windows performance is horrible, mac is like butter. You'd think microsoft would put more love into their own OS, but we have an entire branch for windows performance fixes and it's much better. It's coming after we fix windows USB bullshit. 3) Getting to button remapping is extraordinarily counterintuitive. You need to go to activities and then click the little right arrow to get there. - We'll open this after the activity is created, or make it so the app forces you too like the wizard, would that help? 4) The "tips" panel on the right appears to have movies from a completely different piece of software. There is no "filter view" etc. C'mon. - There are some small things that are not public, but it's not all that bad. Most is relevant. 5) As mentioned in many other posts, since it doesn't have my devices listed I need to basically check all of them. Since my PC isn't in the living room this is an extremely frustrating experience. 6) Commands are missing. I can't find any way to "home" on the toshiba fireTV in my bedroom. None of the many, many commands labeled "menu", menu main, menu quick, men top, etc, do it. The only way for me to go to the internal fireTV input is to use the "input scroll" command (discovered via laborious trial and error trying EVERY SINGLE INPUT.) I did of course have to try EVERY single toshiba TV listed as well. - What device did you end up picking that is working? Do you have the original remote? Is it IR or bluetooth? 7) Erasing a command is annoying. You need to precisely click on the little trashcan and then hold the button there for a second. Very poor UI, I find myself failed to delete over half the time. There should be a drag handle to reorder, so a single click works to delete. - Yes, believe me, I know. We have this fixed in nightly. Dragging and the duplication bug is fixed too. All this got held up because of windows. After shipping a bunch of units, the app wont connect. Apparently windows wants everyone to use UWP apps, but allows other apps outside of UWP to change the permission of our own USB devices so we can't connect, but provide no way to easily change this back. 8) Since there's no way to give a CEC menu or home command there's no way to go home on the ShieldTV either (as it does not have built-in IR) unless you use a Flirc USB. That isn't necessarily the skip1s's fault, but it is a major obstacle to switching (in that I would not switch). - Why do you need CEC if the firetv is built into the TV? I'm not following, however, I think that if it's a toshiba tv, there must be a code to support this that we have to discover. 9) Even though many models of the ShieldTV don't have IR, the app lets you pick it anyway. This led to a lot of head-scratching for me until I realized what was up. - Some shields have IR. We will list the models so it's not confusing. Would that help? Does yours have IR? Not to be completely negative, in the pros column, syncing is really quick, easy, and works flawlessly. Unfortunately that's the only positive feedback from me. I could go on if I were still trying to use the remote, but at this point I'm giving up until a lot of development goes into the software. This device is not usable for my purposes. I hope the app and the overall experience improves. Until that day comes, it will be sitting in a drawer. - I have to respectfully disagree with your conclusion. While the software needs a lot of work, it's objective is to get your remote setup, and you should never have to mess with it again for 2 years until your setup changes. The hardware is solid. If the software is not permitting you to even get set-up, than I need to help you get past that. Please let me know what I can do.

New to the Skip 1s realm. For the life of me I cannot understand why something so simple as the Home Button isn't already assigned with respect to a LG OLED C2/C3/G3 class of products. The Home button is an essential command. Considering the position of LG as a television mfg, what am I missing - - or what gives?

I know this has been asked before but the previous solutions (unplugging for a day, running windows update) does not seem to be working for me. I can record a new button but when I click it the button is not sent. Any ideas?

Scenario: * I'm in activity A now (watching Bluray from HDMI1 input). * I want to switch to activity B (watching cable TV from HDMI input2). * I press red button. Remote will send command to switch to HDMI2. * TV is showing content from cable TV. When I press navigation buttons, there's no response because remote is still in activity A mode. I want to add switching activity command after switching HDMI command. Any idea if it's possible now?

After lots of faffing, I have two FLIRCs connected to a FireTV and Windows based XBMC, translating IR codes from a Global Cache iTach IP2IR into simulated qwerty keyboard keys. I'm using Command Fusion's iViewer app on an iPad to present the user with a touch screen virtual keyboard. iViewer is in fact controlling a fairly large and complex AV system and I desperately wanted to remove the need for a physical keyboard. I just wanted to give a quick run down of some useful tools and the issues I encountered. Because of the sheer number of unique IR codes needed (150+) to cover a full keyboard implementation for two devices, rules out using an old remote control to programme the FLIRC. So instead I used IR Master http://hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13655 to generate clean Pronto Hex IR codes using the JVC protocol. I initially used NEC1, but this interfered with some other devices I have, not to mention conflicting with some standard MCE IR codes, including the Streacom IIRC device installed in the XBMC HTPC. As a side note, the Streacom IIRC unit should be capable of acting as an IR keyboard, but if you can work out how to use the custom programming tool then you deserve a medal. I then used Global Cache's iConvert tool to convert the pronto hex in to something the iTach unit understands. I wrote a simple AutoIT script to convert each code, pulling the pronto hex code from a file, converting it in iConvert and saving the converted code back to another file. Once I had configured the iViewer app on the ipad to send the JVC codes in response to me pressing the keys on the iViewer virtual keyboard, I set about programming the FLIRC using the XBMC, FireTV and Full Keyboard profiles in the FLIRC GUI. This took some time, especially as I encountered some issues erasing keys when I made a mistake. I did not find any way around this other than doing a full wipe and starting again taking more care. The only other problem I encountered concerns the US keyboard mapping in the FLIRC GUI. For XBMC this means that symbols were not being interpreted correctly. If FLIRC is going to be your only keyboard then you can configure windows to just use a US keyboard layout, but I want to be able to easily switch back to a UK keyboard. For this I found this utility, http://www.codeproject.com/Articles/20994/Using-multiple-keyboards-with-different-layouts-on. This remaps the layout for each keyboard. You would think this would be something Windows could do on its own, but apparently not! The keyboard layout doesnt seem to be an issue for FireTV because it only makes use of the Alphanumeric keys as far as I can tell. I'd be happy to expand on the steps if this doesn't make sense, but it might point someone in the right direction and save them time.