jason

Just save the config from the remote manager and everything you need is there along with extraneous info.

Will be catching up with codes this week.

Catching up, will be getting to codes this week.

I'm catching up. Remember to create a new topic for your device. I created one for you and will post a config there for you to try when I catch up this week: https://forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/topic/11430-scepter-u55cv/

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Which specific model? Is it sometimes working or not consistent?

Do you have a model number of the TV?

Are the two remotes you have Infrared or IR? I've looked through those forum postings and they don't have anything new unfortunately. You can open the files they shared with a text editor. They are just the standard remote commands. The link they posted here looks more promising: https://github.com/Lucaslhm/Flipper-IRDB/tree/main/Streaming_Devices/Roku I need to convert these, once I'll do, I'll post something you can try. Roku_remote_4.ir Roku_remote_3.ir Roku_remote_2.ir Roku_remote_1.ir Roku_remote_0.ir

Thank you so much for the kind words. Give this a shot and let me know how it goes. Kanto - YU4.jsonKanto - SYD.json

Ah interesting. Do you have steam installed along with their usb drivers by any chance?

Do either of you hear the new device sound when you connect?

Hey @brittonal The software does it's best to setup the buttons best as possible, but it's very likely some got mis-assigned. If you can save your config, and post it, I can take a look to see how we can improve it. Remember to go into the activity and you can see everything in your list, where you can quickly assign and test buttons. If it's a matter of specific codes for that model, we're working on making this better, but let's start with the above.

Thanks for all the info. Have you ever run a previous version? If you have, make sure you fully remove it, and delete any folder in user data if it's left there and re-install. I know way back we made some changes that started freaking out some newer builds. Let me know.

Once you said up your activity, click on the activity and the power button. You can remove the unnecessary one. Like the attached. Will start looking into getting codes for that for the next update, which is going to be next week. I'll post a trial config here for you to try before. CleanShot 2023-06-23 at 14.34.26.mp4

Probably low battery. Once you update you should lower the brightness of your LEDs to 20%. It should be fine and last a year at that setting. 100% is good for factory testing but not good in the long term. Please let me know.

I edited your post. Be nice or go somewhere else. I can't help you if you are just going to insult me. Your only warning. Help me understand what is going on so I can help. Post your config, and an explanation of what you are seeing. Also make sure you are using the latest firmware.

I haven’t updated it. Sorry. We are catching up on shipments.

Sorry for not replying, I'm a wee bit tired. We got them in Tuesday and have been powering through them. I have a few hundred left to go. I have the entire "team" helping. Don't get mad if your label is crooked.

Yeah I’m working on the next update. It’ll have that and posted soon.

Quite depressing as I hit refresh every day. They took a bit to clear customs, left china, they are in or over Japan now?. No expected delivery time. Last time with the same shipping service, they got here in 4 days. I feel defeated every time I make an estimate. They are on their way, I have no idea if they'll get here before the end of the week, or next week. I don't know anything anymore. = ( I'm just waiting with everyone else now.

Sorry. I mean delete the key. And then record it again.

I’ll post that for you. Let me dig it up. can you post your config? It is possible you just need to re record those keys on the new firmware. But backup a copy first.

Okay, I'm pushing an update to fix this. I think the result is there, it's just adding a bunch of muck. Here is what it should look like: I think I have an extra decode on there, but the results are easier to read. I print the raw code, the pronto code, and a bunch of decoding results. I'll eventually turn this into a library so you can pass it a buff, and get a result

I would try recording the keys that don't work again and sending me a new text file.