Jump to content
Flirc Forums

Not a great first run experience so far


bfliar
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm working through trying to set up my equipment and in the first 45 minutes I have run into the following issues:

1. When I clicked the sync button the first time, the app went back to the first screen and wanted me to set up a new remote from scratch. I did so, but then the app found the original configuration and now I have two configuration for the same physical remote, with no way to delete either of them that I can see or find.

2. Sometimes the app will get confused and think it is connected to the opposite remote configuration I'm trying to set up. This especially happens when I manually hit the sync button.

3. None of my devices can be found when I go to set up devices. For example, I have an LG projector. When I go into set up my projector as a device, I can't search by model number - there are just a bunch of generic options. So far not one of those generic options will actually operate my projector (I have a HU810P). The same goes for my Onkyo receiver - I go to set it up and I can't search by model number, more generic options.

4. When adding devices, not clear what the difference is between "Audio" and "A/V". Thankfully I was able to get my Onkyo receiver working with one of the options under Audio, so that was a small win.

5. There is a test device button that appears when I have selected a device, but it doesn't seem to do anything when I press it.

6. There is no way I can find to configure devices that I can then use in activities. This means I either have to start by copying an activity, or re-set up the device for each activity which is tedious.

7. Power toggle didn't work for my projector, I had to reconfigure the power buttons to power on and power off - I wish that was the default.

So far all I've been able to connect is my receiver, which I can turn on and off. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With regard to 1 and 2, are you on Windows or Mac?

Regarding 5, what should be happening when you hit the test button is your connected remote should be sending the power toggle command to your selected device. Is that not happening?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My first experiences and insights with Skip1S:

- It takes half an hour to understand how the software works, but after playing around with it for a while, it is easy to handle
- I experienced that sometimes the gear in the upper right corner of an activity disappears and I had to restart the APP to see it again
- I am working with a MAC so I didn't have the Windows Errors, discussed here :-)
- The syncing of the software config to the remote is super fast and much easier than with Logitech Harmony
- The database of devices (50.000) is very, very small compared to Logitech Harmony (225.000)
- in my case I did not find my Philips TV
 and had to use one of a few "generic" configs
- The generic config names "group 1", "group 2" and so on are not self-explanatory. That means "trial and error"
- Much more annoying is that I did not find the central/heart of my installation: the AV-Switch, where everything is connected. That means I cannot use my Skip 1S at the moment because...
- ... there is no chance to teach the Skip 1S the few commands of the AV-Switches remote to change the HDMI ports of it. So I am desperately awaiting the teaching/learning function
- CEC is nor really an alternative for me, because the different implementation of CEC by the manufacturers is sometimes not interoperable. In my case the AppleTV sometimes takes over, connects to the TV and stops me from watching TV or Blu-ray 
- Another annoying point is that switching between activities means: every device of activity A is switched off and then every device for activity B (or C) is switched on when you change activity. Practically that means: at least the TV is switched off and on for every activity change .... grrrrrrrr
- and the last point - but in that case, the Skip1S is not to blame - Infrared must see the devices. So it's a good idea to spent a few bucks and buy an IR repeater like https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01F91NHYA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Regards
Martin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the IR database is very limited. It didn't have a bunch of my devices, and they're extremely common. No Xbox Series X, Sonos Beam, or LG OLED C1 in there. It did have the Nvidia Shield, so that's something, but given the Flirc history it would be astonishing if it didn't.

Note that while those devices weren't listed, the Xbox One, Sonos Arc, and a bunch of generic "LG TV" codes were in there and my guess is they would probably work. I can't test it due to either USB-C or the Windows software issue.

Edited by norrishh
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, norrishh said:

Note that while those devices weren't listed, the Xbox One, Sonos Arc, and a bunch of generic "LG TV" codes were in there and my guess is they would probably work. I can't test it due to either USB-C or the Windows software issue.

Pretty much this. Almost every brand reuses codes over and over again. Because this picking of group codes is clearly uncomfortable for a lot of people, we're looking into solutions to match specifically with exact models. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nathan said:

Pretty much this. Almost every brand reuses codes over and over again. Because this picking of group codes is clearly uncomfortable for a lot of people, we're looking into solutions to match specifically with exact models. 

I also will really appreciate a change to this, even if 2 different devices are technically identical under the same device "group" or "family" from a manufacturer, it would feel much better to see the software specifically list the models I'm looking for, so then if there's an issue, I already know whether my specific model is actually technically in the database already or not. As it is currently, I have no way of knowing on the surface if, for example, my LG C1 OLED is part of "group 1" under LG TV devices other than by actually trying every single button after syncing that device to the remote. (It does work just fine, just saying from a knowledge/detail perspective).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...