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What exactly do you need help with? The Harmony profile provided from Flirc includes a Poweroff command that sends the XBMC the keyboard command Ctrl-F12. Since that keyboard command does absolutely nothing I'm simply telling the XMBC to respond to that keyboard command by suspending through a custom keymap profile. This is how to ssh into openelec: http://wiki.openelec.tv/index.php/OpenELEC_FAQ#SSH This tells you everything you need to know about keymapping in xbmc: http://kodi.wiki/view/Keymap

Hello, I have the same "Keys stuck" problem that many others seem to have recently. As in this thread: I'm using openelec on an x86 computer and I'm using a Samsung TV remote to control it. I am a firmware programmer with experience in USB HID devices and I've studied this problem with my USB analyzer. I believe I understand the problem. First a bit of background: The Flirc firmware enumerates as a USB HID keyboard which sends keypresses. It also detects IR signals from remotes. IR remotes use codes that repeat when a button is held down, so filtering is necessary to prevent unwanted repetition of a keypress. Keyboards also have key repeat rates, but it is implemented differently than IR remotes. USB Keyboards use key on and key off messages. It is up to the OS or application to fascilitate key repeat. The problem is that this key repeat delay varies from O/S to O/S, and in some cases from program to program, which is why the inter-key delay settings don't work the same for everyone. If you press and hold down a key on your keyboard you'll see the keypress immediately register, then a short delay, then it will begin to repeat that key. Another thing that complicates things is that IR signals takes some time to actually be received and the IR remote repeat rate varies from remote to remote.. I'm assuming that the vast majority of remotes should take less than 50mS to send a key press, hence my default InterButtonDelay value below. I've captured the USB traffic with several different inter-key delay settings in the Flirc v3.1 firmware. It appears that the inter-key delay setting is actually changing 2 separate things with one delay. I think this is where the trouble lies. Both the IR command ignore delay AND the key down time seem to be modified by this one setting. If the delay is set too low, then the IR repeat rate becomes the dominant factor and you get multiple key presses because of the IR remote sending too quickly (which is unavoidable). If the delay is set high, then the key down time starts becoming long enough that the O/S thinks the key is being held down, so it starts repeating the key. The key down time shouldn't be increased simply because the IR button delay time is increased. When changing both of these, it becomes a balancing act between the two indpendent problems. Most people don't realize that setting the delay to 6 isn't actually the safest choice and 0 doesn't work well either. It isn't obvious why this would be the case though. You really have to find the happy medium that works best. I found a setting of 5 worked best for me, but it still wasn't working completely perfectly. I propose a different implementation of the inter-key delay that works by detecting how long the button has been released and sending the key up message as soon as it has been detected as released. Expected behavior: *If the button is pressed rapidly, as long as there is at least a 50mS pause between presses (button press 20 times per second should be a reasonable limit), then all presses should be recognized as individual presses and releases. *If the button is held down, as long as it is not released for more than 50mS, then the key released event will not be fired and the OS will eventually start repeating the key as expected. *If two different buttons are pressed within 50mS of each other, then the first will be pressed briefly and released as the next is pressed. (This should yield expected behavior) I implemented the keyboard sending code as a queue to guarantee that if 2 commands are needed back to back before the next USB EP1 IN request, then both are guaranteed to be done. This could be implemented a few different ways. A queue is just the mechanism I used. Initialization: ButtonPressed = false; ButtonReleasedTime = 0; InterButtonDelay = 50; //default value in milliseconds.. should be configurable. (this is the time the button is RELEASED, not held...) Upon receiving a recognized IR command (ReceivedKeyCode): if (!ButtonPressed) { QueueSendKeyboardCode(ReceivedKeyCode); //new button pressed: ButtonReleasedTime = 0; //Keep track of how long the button has been released ButtonPressed = true; ButtonPressKeyCode = ReceivedKeyCode; } else { //a button was pressed and we are waiting the minimum release time of that button: if (ButtonPressKeyCode == ReceivedKeyCode) { //Same button was pressed: ButtonReleasedTime = 0; //restart the release timer } else { //different button pressed before the release timeout. Switch buttons QueueSendRelease(); //release previously held button QueueSendKeyboardCode(ReceivedKeyCode); //send new button //new button pressed: ButtonReleasedTime = 0; ButtonPressed = true; ButtonPressKeyCode = ReceivedKeyCode; } } Timer routine (every millisecond - should be thread safe... should be non-interrupt context: same as above code): if (ButtonPressed) { ButtonReleasedTime++; if (ButtonReleasedTime > InterButtonDelay) { QueueSendReleased(); ButtonPressed = false; } } By the way, I understand that this is a closed source project, but if you'd allow me access to the source I'd be happy to work on the project. I don't have direct experience with Atmel chips, but I have worked with Microchip and ST, and to be honest it doesn't make all that much difference once you have the basic framework in place. I've attached one of the USB captures I made that I exported to excel format to analyze what was going on. Joe flic brief presses several repeats interkeydelay is 3.zip

Alt+esc got the home button!! Although I'm on a mac right now and the command+esc and command+space didn't do home/search. I can try again later from a windows machine but I assume they send the same keys.

You should not be able to record the same key again without deleting it before recording again. My last suggestion is for you to try all codes from 1 to 255 (second number still 102). I know that this may take some time. Maybe save your current config from the GUI or command line, then erase Flirc and start recording starting from code 1 102 and increment for all available buttons on the remote (remember which code for which button). Then try all the buttons with Android TV and if you don't find the Home button then erase again and start from next code after the one you recorded in previous round.

Normally the record_api command in flirc_util.exe allows you to record a key with a modifier. The first number is a combination of modifiers (left/right shift/control/alt/windows) and the second is a USB HID key code of the key. There is a special case when the second number is 102. This tells Flirc to send a key code defined by a first number from different HID usage table. The code 154 then means a Media Select Home button. I'm not sure if this is the correct one so you need to check it yourself. I've described more in this thread:

Same problem also here with same setup. Interkey 0 and noise cancelling helped a bit, but often when pressing up und down the command is issued twice. Latest FW 3.1 running with Fire TV profile.

Hi, Do you know how to use command line? There is an executable called flirc_util.exe in Flirc folder (on Windows) or just flirc_util under Linux and OS X. You can try running it like that: flirc_util.exe record_api 154 102 (remove .exe from the command name in case of Linux and OS X). After you press enter it will wait for a remote button to be pressed like in the GUI. Please let me know if this works.

Hey, I've got a lot of troubles with my Flirc. For beginning, it didn't function at all under Win7, GUI crashed immediately. After searching for a while the problem was a WD external HD, it sounds totally funny, but after the WD was connected to the external USB3 port, and the Flirc to an internal USB2 the Gui crashed. After connecting the WD to an external USB2 port, the problem was gone. Making any sense, not at all, but it was the solution! But now if installed Win 8.1. Flirc is correct installed, and functions. But i can't program it, can't bind keys, can't delete keys, nothing at all. When is use the command based version of Flirc, it telles me that the Firmware version=V240.240 . I think it isn't able to write and read from the Flirc, if i change a setting, Interkey Delay, it isn't saving the value. Anybody with tips? Running in win 7 modus doesn't help.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "remote profile." I launch Flirc. I select Full Keyboard, because I need to teach it keyboard commands such as Command F1 through Command F5 and Option F1 through Option F5, plus Command ESC, and so on. I'm not pairing Flirc with Boxee or Plex. I'm using Flirc to trigger keyboard commands that control various applications. I checked Advanced Settings, and Noise Canceler isn't checked. I'm not suggesting Flirc doesn't work. I'm just finding that it often misses commands if the remote isn't pointed enough in its direction, and I'm surprised because it sits next to my Mac's IR receiver which has no trouble picking up commands even if the remote is pointed nowhere near it.

First of all is the Flirc below the "line of sight" when you take the IR signal bouncing from the wall in front of the couch? What I mean is you point the remote in the direction of the stereo and it bounces from the wall and goes back. If not you could use an USB extender cable to rise the Flirc higher so it can see the bounced signal. I have my Flirc out of the line of sight from the remote (actually in another room next to the one with TV) and I get 100% reception of the IR signal when pointing remote at the TV (it bounces of at least one wall). It also depends on the power of the remote's IR LED. Now to your question. Short answer: yes, it's possible with some amount of work. Long answer: It depends on the firmware of your router. Are you using OpenWRT or some other custom firmware? I'll base my answer on OpenWRT as it is most popular and open router firmware. There is a daemon (service) called triggerhappy. It's available in package repository for OpenWRT so it's installation should be easy but you need to be comfortable with using Linux terminal. Triggerhappy allows you to catch events from an input device (like keyboard) and execute your own scripts upon them. Next you would need some software or script on both devices (the router and the Mac) which would allow to push events over the network. I'm not familiar with Mac applications so I can't help you with this part. For Windows I would use EventGhost which has network input plugin (acts as a server and allows event generating clients to connect to it and push events to it). I also see a way to keep the wake key functionality. It requires the ability to wake the computer with Wake-on-LAN magic packet (most modern computers do) and just map the power button to wol command in the triggerhappy config.

Alongside some back-and-forth with Jason (THANKS man!) -- I blew away 2 of my 3 flircs (in very similar fashion to the process you used, maxwell), and additionally made an adjustment to my Harmony 650 per the instructions here: http://support.myharmony.com/en/article.htm?faqid=s-a-2158&ref=s-ts-3001--a-3-3& There, I changed Device Command Repeats to 0 (from 1) for the Flirc Media Player device. After some testing I handed the remote back over to the missus, who is usually the best test case ever. She didn't manage to cause repeating keys, so I'm cautiously optimistic. edit=fired it up this morning and unfortunately I'm hitting the bug again.

Hi Guys Thanks for all the useful information in this thread. I started on the journey with a harmony 650 and the flirc xbmc profile. The latest gui (3.1 at this point) takes away almost all the pain for XBMC. The only place where I got stuck was - The amazon fire home button - couldn't get it to work with the command line mapping to 101 - Solved The back button for amazon fire (the return button works fine for xbmc) - Not Solved If anyone is looking for a solution to home button not working with 101 - I ended up using 69 ( in the command ;) ) as follows - flirc_util.exe record_api 0 69 The logic behind that number is this post here which maps all key presses to their codes - Additional details for logitech Harmony or anyone trying to troubleshoot remote key presses- As mentioned, I was working with a Logitech Harmony 650. I waanted to map the Menu button with Home and exit button with back for fire tv (not XBMC). For a while I tried a few other buttons and couldn't see any of them even registered on the remote as sending anything. If you understand the harmony remote universe, I was trying this within an activity for watching movies - i.e. while the remote was working in a combined mode of sending key presses for volume commands to the amp and any media key presses to flirc+aftv etc. To be able to see what exactly the remote was doing, I installed eventghost (free). If you have used it you would know what its for, if you haven't - suffice it to say it can be used to program your windows OS (and therefore XBMC on windows) to map remote buttons to specific actions. So the setup was - My laptop running wondows + eventghost and flirc plugged in to the laptop. I also enabled the keyboard plugin on eventghost so that it listens and translates to flirc events as keyboard events. That would mean that any keypresses on my harmony were seen by flirc Passed to EG and displayed on screen as keyboard event they represented. Result - Part 1 - Event-ghost confirmed that the menu and exit keys on my remote were not doing anything. For this one, I used the harmony software to include these keys for my chosen activity (watch movies). The action on these buttons could be anything for now, as I wanted to just ensure that the keys were working. (For good measure, I also added these two menu options to the onscreen menu on lLogitech but you can ignore that ) Part 2 - Now that the buttons were firing, I needed to map them to send in whatever fire tv receives as a home button. I repeated the command line option in the thread so that the button press would be seen as F12. Maybe I tried it too many times but for some reason I couldnt get EG to report it as F12. It would either be registered as something else or an F12 followed by two returns. That is when I did some more digging and got to the post mentioned above with details on key presses and their numerical equivalents. Ultimately, I got to see F12 and it works. Part 3 - For some reason though, I still couldnt get the whole thing to work for back button. It should be recognised as an escape key. As with F12, I have used the corresponding code for my harmony exit button as well as the screen option. It is received as an escape followed by two returns. It might be a case of flirc keeping the old values, although I've tried deleting it a few times. Or it might be a case of fiddling with the key repeat time etc. I was too tired to persist with it but will try again later Hope all of that is useful to someone.

There is something else fishy going on! I was just relearning some of the keys missing, number 1 to 4 and added two keys with modifiers "Ctrl+Shift+X". Here is a before/after Lirc_Util keys command. Look at the second output how "7" is suddenly missing! Maybe this related to the sometimes strange behavior of the dongle, seems like a bug whatsoever. Sequence Modifier are disabled in GUI. Is this needed to be able to learn keys with modifiers? As I understand it right, it is okay to not see every index number in the output as these are probably unprintable commands. Right? C:\Program Files (x86)\Flirc>flirc_util.exe keys Recorded Keys: Index hash key ----- --------- --- 0 5E639B9B 5 1 2A32099B 6 2 BA0E9B9B 7 3 CC95779B 8 4 EE402D9B 9 5 3825899B 0 6 F79C9B9B up 7 3339099B down 8 87792D9B left 9 90F9099B right 10 9A00099B return 11 8C0C899B backspace 12 1BE91B9B c 13 65CE779B s 15 FA3E659B F8 16 2993899B f 17 5901B9B r 18 609C9B9B y 19 C7A8F79B suspend 20 9E2A9B9B l 21 A3171B9B e 22 29DC9B9B h 23 8BC72D9B i 24 C7639B9B tab 26 652FF79B x 27 D0C0099B space 28 956CAD9B p 29 32F3AD9B pageup 30 F7573F9B pagedown 33 C8021B9B w 38 20D59B9B F7 39 59D03F9B 1 40 F5AB099B 2 41 BEA1F79B 3 42 4E7E899B 4 43 C9F3AD9B F9 44 8A1AF79B F10 C:\Program Files (x86)\Flirc>flirc_util.exe keys Recorded Keys: Index hash key ----- --------- --- 0 5E639B9B 5 1 2A32099B 6 2 CC959B9B 8 3 EE402D9B 9 4 3825899B 0 5 F79C9B9B up 6 3339099B down 7 87792D9B left 8 90F9099B right 9 9A00099B return 10 8C0C899B backspace 11 1BE91B9B c 12 65CE779B s 14 FA3E659B F8 15 2993899B f 16 5901B9B r 17 609C9B9B y 18 C7A8F79B suspend 19 9E2A9B9B l 20 A3171B9B e 21 29DC9B9B h 22 8BC72D9B i 23 C7639B9B tab 25 652FF79B x 26 D0C0099B space 27 956CAD9B p 28 32F3AD9B pageup 29 F7573F9B pagedown 32 C8021B9B w 37 20D59B9B F7 38 59D03F9B 1 39 F5AB099B 2 40 BEA1F79B 3 41 4E7E899B 4 42 C9F3AD9B F9 43 8A1AF79B F10 C:\Program Files (x86)\Flirc>123456

For me: "Or the only remedy is to press another key, but that key gets stuck." Not just a bit sticky like when I hit keys too many times to fast. Really stuck till the break of dawn. ;-) Right now, on another USB port, my nice Flirc behaves brilliantly, no stuck keys, nothing. I am back on FW3.1 by the way. And yes, I see it works great without replugging. I even have the GUI open, using flirc_util and test the commands in XBMC all at the same time right now, just minimizing the GUI. The time with the stuck keys I am very positive that I weren't able to press ANY learned keys by just closing the GUI. I had to replug Flirc first. I am using Flirc on Windows 7 64 bit right now to program it and will now hop over to the Ubuntu HTPC to test Flirc there. Thanks for the effort and your support! On another note: flirc_util only give output in a command window when you type "flirc_util.exe" INCLUDING the file extension. Made my head scratch pretty hard. ;-)

To get the right decimal HID value from your keyboard to use in record_api command, you can use this in a shell command as well: su -c "while true; do od --read-bytes=144 --width=144 -d /dev/input/event3 | awk 'NF > 1 { print \$12 }'; done" On another note, I think it is a huuuuge hassle to do all this just to get my Flirc use the "-" key instead of the "ß". :-/

A few moths ago, I purchased Flirc and programmed it on my windows machine using the Panasonic TV profile as posted at Plugged the Flicr dongle into my XBMCBUNTU machine and everything worked great. Best gadget I have ever purchased. I have since had to reinstall XBMC on that machine and instead of using XBMCBUNTU like I originally did, I installed Ubuntu and added the xbmc packages. I was expecting to just plug the Flicr dongle in and it would work just like before since the programming is contained on the dongle, but it now does nothing. The remote is sending the command(based on the feedback indicator on the remote), but I get no response on the XBMC machine. I did the obvious things: 1. Add 'deb http://apt.flirc.tv/arch/i386 binary/' to /etc/apt/sources.list 2. apt-get update 3. apt-get install flirc Enabled the 'remote sends keyboard commands' option within the XBMC configuration. Was there some other step that I had forgotten or overlooked that was part of the XBMCBuntu install that would be missing by installing the full OS? I have ran out of ideas of what to check, where to look, etc Any suggestions?

That was it !!!! Connect the dongle to my windows machine and started the GUI - a few moments later it indicated the firmware update and I was up and running again. No additional programming needed. Thanks Jason #output from flirc_util command flirc_util version v1.2.6 [v1.2.6] Firmware: v2.6 ....

# output from flirc_util command flirc_util version v1.2.6 [v1.2.6] Booloader: v2.0 Commands: delete Delete next remote button flirc sees from saved database delete_index Delete button at index displayed in `flirc_util settings` dfu Kick in or out of Device Firmware Upgrade mode dump Dumps contents of eeprom to console format Remove all saved buttons from flirc help Show this help. Also try `help <command>` interkey_delay Test run command keys Shows the recorded remote keys and their pairings loadconfig Load configuration file from disk to flirc noise_canceler Noise canceler to prevent phantom presses normal Put flirc in normal user mode peek Peek EEPROM address profiles enable or disable built in profiles reboot Displays all the devices current settings record Record infrared buttons and link them to HID keys record_api Advanced button recording saveconfig Save configuration file to disk settings Displays all the devices current settings sleep_detect Turns on sleep/suspend detection space Displays information about the space used and remaining status Last Flirc Status upgrade Uploads new firmware image to flirc hardware version Print the application version and device version if connected wait Waits for the device to be plugged in (used for scripting)

I recently bought an Xbox One, and one of the neat things it can do is control your whole home theatre by voice command. It uses the Kinect as an IR blaster, and it can turn on and control your AV receiver, TV (or projector in my case), and TV set top box. You can even turn the whole shebang on and off by saying "Xbox On" or "Xbox Turn Off". It lets you change channels with your voice, and even gives you a really nice schedule program grid for watching TV, which is something my OTA STB (on the far left of the photo) doesn't do. Unfortunately, there's one thing it can't do, which is change the inputs on anything, or control an HDMI switch. As you can see in the previous photo, I've got a Monoprice 4x2 matrix switch handling all my devices. It lets me take any of my inputs and send them to either the projector, or my PC monitor on the other side of the room. Normally I use a Harmony remote to control everything (to help me remember which inputs are which). The Xbox One was actually a fifth input, but that didn't matter, because the Xbox One has an HDMI input that you run your STB through. Anyhow, I really wanted to be able to turn everything on and off with the Xbox voice commands, and I noticed that the HDMI switch has a serial port on it: It turns out that you can completely control the switch via the serial port, doing anything that the remote can do. Even better, Monoprice publishes (on their website, despite the big "CONFIDENTIAL" label) documentation on the commands you need to send to control the thing: Serial ports are kind of hard to find on modern PCs, but I had an ARM dev board lying around. It's a PandaBoard, which has the hardware of a high-end smartphone from two or three years ago. My original plan was to stick it inside an empty NES case and use it for emulation, but that didn't pan out (not fast enough, and vsync didn't work), so it's been sitting on a shelf for ages. I thought, this thing has serial ports, and some googling turned up FLIRC, and this thing has USB ports, and even though it's got an ARM chip, you can load Ubuntu Linux onto it instead of Android... It would be crazy expensive to buy this just for this project (the board is a few hundred dollars), but since I already had the thing lying around... I figured why not put it to some use for a change. If I was doing this from scratch, I'd grab a Raspberry Pi to do it at a fraction the cost. Anyhow, here's it all wired up (albeit pulled out from the back of the shelf): I programmed the FLIRC to send a keystroke whenever it saw the power command for my OTA STB, because the Xbox One would be the only thing that would ever send that command, and it would only send that command when it was turning everything on or off. Then I configured Ubuntu to run a script whenever it saw the keystroke the FLIRC would send, and I wrote some bash scripts: And what's the result? It all works! The final setup is actually the *first* photo in this post, you can just barely see the PandaBoard and FLIRC hiding at the back of the shelf behind the AV receiver, out of view. I can now say "Xbox On", and the FLIRC will see the Xbox's commands, and cause my HDMI switch to get turned on and switched to the right inputs. It also turns the HDMi switch off when I tell the xbox to shut down, although the scripting on that is a little spotty (it only works about half the time), so I'll need to tweak the script to get that as solid as the power up. Here's a youtube video of everything getting turned on. I've cut out the lengthy wait for the projector to warm up. Keep in mind that the XBox has absolutely no way to directly control the HDMI switch!

Temporarily changing the inter delay setting didn't work for me. Plus, I've had to disable the Noise Canceler feature as it caused the response to be fairly sluggish. So my two issues continue to be: (1) the Alt-F4 mapping, which almost always send that command twice, and (2) crazy key repeats are still occuring on average 1-2 times per week.

Hello, I've searched to try and find a way of mapping a button so that when and if xbmc freezes I can push this button and it runs killall -9 xbmc.bin. However what I have found doesn't seem to work. I am running xbmc as a desktop so it boots straight into it. I created a script which is just the command mentioned above and made it executable. When I'm on the desktop and run it, it works. but when I reboot and go to xbmc it will not work. Can someone who has done this can give a quick tutorial on how to make this work it be much appreciated. Thanks.

I'm using Openelec on a Raspberry Pi B+ and recently bought a Logitech Harmony to control it. I'm trusting the embedded profile, and it seems to work very well. After a while though the volume down key or command (and ONLY this one, so far) stops working. Unplugging and replugging the FLIRC doesn't help, only a complete reboot of the RPi will let it work again. It's not a tremendous hassle but it's somehow distressing. Anyone got any clue on this? Is it a firmware bug?

I just noticed something that could be relevant. I was using my remote with Flirc, just browsing my Plex library, and decided to turn of my air conditioner. When I did so using the IR remote, I heard the USB disconnect sound come from my media center, which I found odd. I went back to the couch and my Flirc was no longer responding. I plugged it out and back in, all was working again. So i turned my AC off on and back off and same thing, Flirc is disconnected. IT seems as though Flirc is receiving a shutdown command from my AC remote. How can i disable this?!?!

hi mate thanks for the reply. using v3.0. and using the following remote http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-WINDOWS-MEDIA-CENTRE-REMOTE-CONTROL-W-BATTERIES-RC118-H24-DG1-/300821546294?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item460a5c8536 i was under the impression that this can be used with ANY remote. that was main attraction to this device. with regards to f9.f10 etc, those are the buttons that adjust the volume on xbmc. im also unable to use any command with the centre windows button. can you help please.

This solution is incorrect. Please look at my next post for a proper one. You can use flirc_util command line utility. It has a record_api command which allows you to assign a remote buttons to any arbitrary key and modifiers. From the help in the utility itself (version 1.2.6) the usage is as follows: flirc_util record_api 136 4 where 136 is the combined value for modifier keys, and 4 is the key code on the keyboard (all values are decimal). The modifier value is composed of following values: LEFT CONTROL 1 LEFT SHIFT 2 LEFT ALT 4 LEFT CMD|WIN 8 RIGHT CONTROL 16 RIGHT SHIFT 32 RIGHT ALT 64 RIGHT CMD|WIN 128 So if you want to use for example left control + left shift then the modifier value for the command will be 3 (logical OR, but you can just use sum of both values). The key codes are a little different for each keyboard layout. That's why you have problems mapping the buttons using GUI as it is based on US layout key codes. You need to find a list of key codes for French layout or you could use some application that shows you the key code when the key is pressed. BTW the key codes are assigned to a physical key, not to a letter or symbol. So for US keyboard layout = and + have the same key code but they differ in modifier keys used (in case of + sign you need to add shift modifier key).