Jump to content
Flirc Forums

rlively

Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

rlively last won the day on December 28 2023

rlively had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

rlively's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • One Month Later Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. Thanks, I was able to program my remote using a Win11 VM.
  2. @jason Any update on a possible workaround or fix for this? You mentioned that uninstalling Steam won't even help because Steam leaves traces behind that still interferes. Is there any way I can set up this remote on a machine that has Steam on it?
  3. I enabled SVM in my bios and looked into enabling the Windows Containment you mentioned, but I'm on Windows 10 Home not Pro so it's unavailable. I am running Comodo Internet Security though which has a containment feature so I used that. When I launch SkipApp.exe contained, it just hangs at the blue screen with the logo in the middle. Checking Comodo logs I see that it launched WerFault.exe but never SkipDeviceRestrictionBroker.exe so I'm assuming it just crashed when it was unable to prompt for UAC and launch the restriction broker. At least that's what it did the first time - there after it just opens then immediately closes. I see it launching WindowsPackageManagerServer.exe.
  4. In my original post I mentioned that I tried exiting the app, closing Steam, and reluanching and that didn't help. There was an update to the Skip app I took before this test. Then I changed the Steam settings not to automatically launch at startup restarted Windows (holding Shift to get the blue screen to force it to do a "real" restart not a fast startup). In the skip app the indicator at the bottom stayed on "Connecting" for 10 minutes and never changed. Logs attached. LocalState20240114.zip
  5. There was also this problem of a missing HDMI input code I was wondering if he was able to solve. I have the same problem with an LG TV I tried - no HDMI Inputs are available. The only options under LG are three generic ones (Code Group 1, Code Group 2, and Most Models) and one specific model (OLED48C25LB). Code Group 1 has HDMI inputs but the buttons don't work for the TV (such as power). Code Group 2 had power buttons and navigation that worked but no HDMI inputs. The specific model only has a few buttons and no inputs.
  6. Yes, I do use the harmony app to do that, but the experience is better with a remote which is why it would be great if the Skip 1s could send commands to the hub.
  7. I just received a Skip 1s remote and set it up using the app while visiting and found it working well. After arriving back home, I launched the app and did not plug in the remote when prompted (chosing "later"). I then configured activities and buttons to my liking and plugged in the remote to sync it. Windows prompted me to allow admin permission to SkipDeviceRestrictionBroker.exe but I still couldn't sync. I unplugged and replugged in the remote but then windows said it was an unknown device and Device Manager showed an error device under Universal Serial Bus Controllers. Also no buttons would light up when pressing any button on the remote. I resolved that by taking the batteries out for a few minutes and putting them back in. Then the buttons would light up and SkipDeviceRestrictionBroker.exe prompted UAC again. Still could not sync. When I first launch the app without the remote plugged in, it says "Offline" then when I plug it in it transitions to Connecting and hangs. (Sometimes ... other times it changes to Connecting then immediately back to Offline.) I am unable to launch the Skip app as administrator (not an option in the context menu). I exited out of Steam and restarted the Skip app, but that didn't help. I have not performed any firmware updates. Log attached. Skip app version 0.9.955. What can I do now to troubleshoot and resolve? flirc20231227.zip flirc_devicebroker-12_27_2023.log Next-day update: retrieved the original USB C cable that came with the device but the behavior was the same as with the previous USB C cable. Also the same results on a second Windows 10 PC ( Windows 10 Home Version 22H2). @jason Is this something you can help me with?
  8. It is counter-intuitive to me that what category is picked to find the device changes how the buttons are mapped and what options are available. I thought it was just a multilevel search to help you find the device easier. Were you able to find your exact model receiver in both categories? When customizing remote buttons and other behaviors I would expect all of the options on the device to be available no matter what category was chosen.
  9. I have a similar issue but with discrete HDMI inputs for an LG TV (code group and specific models don't include the HDMI input signal). Without this the remote won't be of much good. A guide of how to find the signal and how to manually update the config JSON woudl be helpful in the near term.
  10. Not that I know of. Is there any option for an IR-to-bluetooth emulation for the hub or some other clever solution using other products or coding? I have hubs that are working but harmony remotes that are not.
  11. @Nicodeme Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I have the same one but for an LG TV. The specific model listed isn't applicable (still doesn't have discrete input button names) and the generic "code group" ones don't either. I tried pasting the exact model and it did not take it.
×
×
  • Create New...