jason
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Posts posted by jason
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3 minutes ago, theboomr said:
It's definitely the device with "20A0" in its Hardware Ids, and it is the device that disappears from the list if I unplug the remote, so I'm pretty confident it's the right device.
I tried searching for the Physical Device Object Name from the USB Input Device (which is "\Device\USBPDO-18" and does not change every unplug/replug the way the HID-compliant vendor-defined device does) and that also returns zero results in Process Explorer.Can you make a video as previously done but with the vendor define device?
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2 minutes ago, theboomr said:
Hmm, so when I search in Process Explorer, there are zero results matching. I tried with the Skip app both open and closed, same thing. Also, not sure if this matters, but I noticed that the value for Physical Device Object Name seems to be incrementing by 1 (in hex) every time I unplug and plug it back in. Is that expected?
It's not impossible. Are you sure you opened the right device in device manager? Maybe try the other 20a0?
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46 minutes ago, theboomr said:
Major thanks to @Agustin
Okay, FInd our Same 20A0 device under HID-compliant Vendor-Defined Device.
Go to the details tab. Go to `Physical Device Object Name`
Now open up the process explorer application. Search for your `value` you have for above, here is mine in the screenshot:
What is the process? If it says non-existent, go to run->resmon
Sort by PID, and find the match!
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25 minutes ago, theboomr said:
I probably can a little later this afternoon, like around 2pm MST? I would only have about 15-20 minutes for it, unless we waiting until way later tonight after I'm done with work. Fair warning, my internet upload speed is only like 3-5 Mbps so it will be a laggy experience unfortunately
Ah no problem, let's wait.
Okay, for now, can you do the following. Find the device in device manager again. Go to the first entry in the list, take a screenrecording, just hit down on your keyboard, pause for a couple seconds, hit down again, until we get through all the entries. There must be a clue somewhere what has our device open.
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22 minutes ago, theboomr said:
Nothing comes up for "20a0" in the search; I attached a screenshot of what comes up for "hid". I had to download process explorer from here for anyone else doing this.
Are you able to do a team viewer session?
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31 minutes ago, pen2paper said:
Hi guys, I'm having difficulty setting up my Philips TV remote for use with a Win 11 machine running Kodi - specifically, the arrow controls and OK button. When I try to map these controls, they seem to alternate during use for some reason. So, pressing Up will ether either result in Up or OK, Left either Left or Right, Right either Right or Left, and Down either Down or nothing.
Any advice appreciated!
Can you go to advanced->device logging. Enable IR debugging. Press and hold one problematic button. Pause, and do the same with the other? Attach your logs, let me take a look.
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6 hours ago, AeroCluster said:
I've attached all of the requested screenshots (I think. I might have missed a step catching up with the recent posts.).
Hopefully these help. Let me know if there's some other info you could use.
can you and @theboomropen ‘process explorer’, Click the ‘find button’ of the menu bar. Type in 20a0. Does anything show up? If that doesn’t show anything, search for ‘hid’
Thank you for the help.
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4 hours ago, sb5 said:
The main reason I asked if it's a problem that the date isn't format correctly and I cannot see the serial number is because I would very much like to receive future firmware updates for my remote. And perhaps if the app can't read my serial number it wouldn't be able to upgrade the firmware in the future?
Valid concern but don’t worry. This is a UX implementation issue.
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3 minutes ago, theboomr said:
My personal opinion would be stick to removable batteries, switch to AA if you have to in order to have backlighting on all buttons. I think it's way nicer to use rechargeable AAs than have devices with built-in rechargeable batteries. Maybe it's possible to have charging circuitry in the remote that can charge AAs in it? That's prolly too complex though...
I wanted to have a charger in it but the regulatory requirements are not trivial so we held off “for now”.
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6 minutes ago, theboomr said:
Ooh I'm having this issue with a Series X as well. I thought maybe it was just that my Xbox is at the bottom of my console and wasn't receiving the IR well enough but even if I stick the remote directly in front of the IR receiver on the console, it still doesn't seem to be 100% consistent.
What was the make and device of the code you have installed. I should have this figured out tomorrow
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4 minutes ago, theboomr said:
Ok I did try with a USB hub and no change in behavior. Didn't try the rest of USB ports in back of my PC but I strongly doubt it would make any difference.
No I don’t think so. But I’m convinced it’s a symptom of this other issue. Are you able to top back drivers in the device?
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18 minutes ago, jason said:
I think we might have a repro from a team member, will start to work on this
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On 1/11/2023 at 12:35 PM, virtualshock said:
I get it. Really like the remote and app so far but I know it is a lot of work to get it polished. Thanks.
Definitely needs polishing. You should see our Jira...
But that's why we have the software in beta. The remote is solid though. I should have a firmware update soon. Thank you for the feedback.
Any chance you can get the codes in pronto format? I'll be documenting how users can easily add their own at run time. -
4 minutes ago, infrb said:
I do have the original remote, but I don't have a flirc USB. Is there anything you'd like me to do with my cable box setup?
I'm willing to bet whatever @Fardi273is seeing, is the same issue. If it's a problem with the database, or decoding an entry, I'll fix it. So let's wait for @Fardi273, me to pull out some hair, and I'll get it fixed. Promise.
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On 1/10/2023 at 10:44 AM, tommyboy39 said:
Curious as to why the Skip 1s database is not available for the public to see. I can see it saving a lot of time in answering some of the questions regarding if "my" certain remote is on the list or not. I have a particular remote from a less known brand of set top media players and perusing the database on my own to see if it is on the list or not might end up being a bit of a time saver for both parties. So, is Dune, Egreat, Zidoo or Zappiti on the database list?
Our software is public now and anyone can download it. It's a mysql database so we would have to make some web interface to view it online.
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On 1/9/2023 at 7:32 AM, MichaelSage said:
I haven't received my remote yet :( Are they shipping now?
Yes, I got yours out, let me know if you didn't get your tracking.
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3 minutes ago, virtualshock said:
I am using MacOS latest beta. The serial number is showing up now but the date just isn't showing up correctly. I am having trouble switching remotes on the screen manually when nothing is plugged in and sometimes when one is plugged in the manual option doesn't work right. When a remote is plugged in it has been picking the right profile, showing it is connected and is able to be synced. I can't delete a remote profile but that can be fixed later.
Thanks for these, that's extremely helpful. Can I trouble you for your logs? Let's enable admin mode real quick. Fire up a terminal and do:
mkdir -p ~/.config/SkipApp && echo -e "{\n \"showAdminPanel\": true\n}" > ~/.config/SkipApp/config.json
You'll see a new tab at the top of the software. Head over there, go to app logs, and open that folder. Attach the logs. I'll get all these issues fixed in the next release.
o
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Thanks for letting me know, I'll get that fixed in the next release! Thank you.
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They are for old remotes that have the four colors but also to house any extra keys and or macros. You are right, the documentation should be better, I'll get that updated.
Here is a quick video. To assign buttons to that mode, enter the color mode by hitting the four colors. Do your assignment, and hit that button again to exit color mode.
Sync, and just like the app, to send the keys stored in the colors, press the color dot on the remote, and then the corresponding d-pad you assigned those functions too.
Hitting a button in color mode with no assignment will light the ring red showing us an 'error'. Because no key is assigned to that yet. Let me know if that makes sense. -
2 minutes ago, Fardi273 said:
Yes, i have the original remotes and I also have flirc usb
Perfect, can you fire up the Flirc USB app, go to file->device log. Enable IR debugging.
With the original remote, click and hold one of the problematic buttons for a couple seconds. Then wait about 2 seconds, and do the same on the skip with the same button. That will be really helpful. Not to worry, this is fixeable. Just let me have a stab at it.
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On 1/15/2023 at 10:04 PM, bitzie said:
Like many others I have a Harmony Companion Hub. I was totally bummed that they discontinued it because I can't really change anything with it as the Android app is horrible and simply doesn't work anymore. But then I saw the Skip 1S. Sounds awesome. I was using a flirc usb years ago with an older Harmony and it worked quite well so I figured I would give the Skip 1S a shot.
I'm starting to regret that decision. Using three remotes might just be a more convenient route....
My setup isn't that convoluted. Nvidia Shield 2017 (either used for Kodi/Plex or streaming services) goes into a Denon AVR-X1500H which then outputs to a TCL 55R646. All I want to be able to do is to turn everything on with one button then control the Shield. The tv is basically dumb, I don't use any of the in-built apps or anything it just needs to turn on and off. I have the flirc usb plugged into the Shield with an extension so it's pointing right at where we sit on the sofa. So far, here's what I've been able to do:
1: Turn the tv on or off, but nothing else. If I manually turn on the rest, I can control both the receiver volume and the Shield/Kodi.
2: Turn the receiver on, but nothing else. If I hit the power button again, sometimes the tv will turn on, sometimes the receiver will turn off. Nothing changes with the Shield power-wise, but when it's on I can control it.
Thankfully at least when everything is on, I can fully control the Shield so there's that. But that does mean I still need multiple remotes to get to that point, so it's basically pointless.
Are there any actual guides on how to properly set this up and deal with the rather janky app? I'm really, really close to just tossing the Skip 1S and flirc usb in the trash and setting it all on fire.
Can you share your configuration with me? I'd like to take a look.
** EDIT ** - I think your setup is extremely manageable and think I could help fix it. In Remote manager, Tools->Export Remote Config, attach here. I'll get this fixed for you.
Does your TV have CEC? If not, don't worry.
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Hang on, I'll have an update that will fix this for you tomorrow.
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I'll figure this out. Do both of you have the original remotes?
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20 hours ago, Stewart said:
hi, dont worry ive returned the item. maybe defective?
thanks
It sounds like it, every unit is tested and I have records, I will investigate it. Where did you return, did you need a replacement?
Philips TV (Kodi)
in Remote Controls
Posted
It's a bit unclear which buttons you were pressing in the log, it looks like more than one.
Let's do this. Clear the log, Press and hold up. Stop the log, save this to a file called up.txt. Do the same with okay. Let's keep the buttons separate.
Thanks for the help.