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When you follow the guide for a Harmony and then you added the Open Kodi command by teaching from the Panasonic remote had the Panasonic button already been taught to Open Kodi?

Thanks, I found the cli command for just the windows key. The thing that is confusing me is that I have used a Smart Control Harmony ( with the hub) and made an XBMC media player using the FLIRC profile in the My Harmony database. This does not leave a whole lot of active buttons on the remote. Not all buttons will be active. In order to record a new key in FLIRC don't I need to use a remote that has active buttons?

Hi, You can always record new keys in Flirc GUI if you have enough space in Flirc EEPROM. It can store almost 200 keys (built-in profiles don't count into the limit). You can use built-in profile and record extra keys or you can disable built-in profiles and record all the buttons from the start. That way you have more control. I would not recommend using MCE remote for any key, not only Windows one. Also there is a problem with Windows key because you can't assign anything to just Windows key in the GUI because Windows key is a modifier and it can be only used with some other non-modifier key. You would need to use Flirc command line tool for that. I've described it sometime ago so you should be able to find it using forum search function.

Re: "The software sees the flirc fine, the flirc just doesn't see any remote." So you can program the Flirc without a problem, i.e., you get the "command learned" confirmation dialogue and then if you press that key again it will light up on the GUI? What system did you use to program the Flirc? What happens if you use a keyboard with the OSMC/Kodi system? Does it stay "connected" and recognize the commands it sends?

I've got two Harmony/Flirc setups, main one using a 650 , secondary using a 550. Logitech had no profile for the Flirc when I bought them so I just programmed manually. In the Harmony software I set the Flircs up as Media Center PC. Any Harmony buttons that weren't given a function by the Harmony software I programmed manually using an old TWC cable box remote(including several softkeys). In my experience (again, manually programming vs using a pre-populated profile) it doesn't matter what command/signal you teach the Harmony to output when you push a button as long as it is a unique IR command--that is, different from all other IR commands used by your system. Once the Harmony is set up, I move on to the Flirc. I start by assigning the navigation arrows, select, return, home, and info buttons with the Flirc's FireTV interface. Then I switch the Flirc to the full keyboard interface and assign the remaining keys (play as P, pause as spacebar, etc). I like taking advantage of some of the more niche keyboard commands like ' for jumping back 7 seconds, switching subtitle languages, next audio lang, etc, and so that's why I always go to the trouble to teach every button on the Harmony. One other thing I do when programming the Flirc is make a list of the Harmony key and the corresponding Flirc/Kodi command. Once I'm all done I fire up the system and run down the list to make sure everything is working as expected. Anything that isn't gets reprogrammed, and the list ensures that I'm consistent with my button assignments. Hope this was helpful. Having said all that, my 550 has always worked perfectly (probably shouldn't have said that). My 650 is another story. Lots of problems with double key presses. I've experimented with every value for Interkey delay, bouncing the IR off 2 walls when programming the Flirc, following Harmony's troubleshooting for "my device responds too much". Nothing seems to make it work as well as it does with the 550. I've swapped the Flirc's, updated to latest FW, yet it's always the 650 that misbehaves. The 650 has no problems with any other gear in my system, yet the Flirc works as advertised with my 550, Unfortunately they just don't seem to play well together.

I've updated my Logitech Harmony to the latest Flirc Kodi device, and I've also upgraded to firmware 3.6. However, I've noticed a few things using logkeys Pressing the following keys: MENU - Nothing, expecting 'M' or 'C' STOP - <BackSp>, should be 'X' PLAY - <Enter>, should be 'P' or <SpaceBar> PAUSE - <E-a6>, should be <SpaceBar> FORWARD - <E-d0> SKIP FWD - <E-a6> REWIND - <E-a8> SEEK BACK - <E-a5> Ch/Pg UP - <E-a3> Ch/Pg DOWN - <E-a5> Anyway, point is, the keys don't seem to be issuing the proper command corresponding to Kodi. Any idea how to fix this? I tried manually remapping the keys, and that doesn't seem to help/work properly. It's also registering double-keypresses, maybe because I set the Inter-Key delay to 0.

I found the steps to downgrade in the Firmware > Bugs forum. Based on a post from another user, I went back to firmware version 2.6, and my FLIRC was usable again. A firmware downgrade was the only thing that worked for me, so hopefully it's OK to post this: Download and install the GUI+Firmware version you want from http://downloads.flirc.tv/release/gui/ Open a command prompt, change to the FLIRC directory, and run flirc_util dfu Start the FLIRC GUI When the GUI starts, it will detect the FLIRC boot loader and download the version of the firmware bundled with the GUI. I was never able to get the Force Upgrade button in the GUI to work, but these steps worked every time.

This doesn't work. I have tried your method with 2 different flirc's. Does not work. Keep getting messages 'button already recorded' when the button has not been recorded. Your device does not work with JRiver MC20 using the keyboard controller GUI. I have tried numerous times. I open the flirc keyboard controller. It prompts to 'click a key to start recording'. I point and click on 'control' and 'P'. It then prompts to push remote key you want to match with command. So I push 'play' the key on my URC 900 that has been loaded with sony dvd commands (since I do not use any sony devices). It states 'recorded successfully'. No message comes up to prompt choosing another button/command. So I push 'control' 'S' and am prompted to push a remote key I want to match. So I pushed the 'stop' button I my remote. Then on the GUI the 'control', 'P', and 'S' buttons are all flashing on and off !!??? It doesnot allow me to record any other commands. Keeps saying that the button has already been recorded, cancel/redo. Either I am not understanding your instructions or your firmware does not work. If I am doing this incorrectly, please help me understand how to do it correctly. If the firmware is not working please fix. Or better yet , make a controller specifically for JRiver MC as you have done for Windows Media or boxee.

I am trying to use a URC-900 remote to control my laptop when running JRiver MC20. I read on the support page the hints on using a URC remote. I loaded sony commands into my URC. I then went to the gui. I have the choices under 'controllers' of minimalist, full keyboard, etc. The best choice seems to be 'media keys'. So I matched the sony commands to the 'media keys' and then tried to control MC20. It responded, but didn't work correctly. If I hit the 'next' > key on my remote it skips to the next song, BUT THEN EVERY FEW SECONDS IT WILL SKIP TO THE NEXT SONG without hitting any remote keys. Its as if it were receiving ir commands on its own. I moved the remote out of the room to make sure that the remote wasn't sending an unwanted command, but the problem continued. Am I using the wrong 'controller' page for setup?? I have the JRiver MC20 keyboard hot keys and could use them to enter and match commands if that is possible, but when I opened 'full keyboard' it seems to be for controlling an external device like playstation with a computer keyboard key punch, which is not what I want. Is there a controller page specifically for JRiver MC??

Hi there, It's been a while since I've been to the flirc forums. I have 4 flircs in the house at the moment, all connected to seperate htpc setups and all working great. A while ago in these forums I suggested a feature to add secondary functions to buttons to add more functionality for smaller minimal button remotes like the apple tv remote. An example would be; to wake the pc push and hold a button to trigger the wake command, or push and hold 'up' to adjust volume. Essentially this would double the amount of functionality of a small remote. This suggestion seemed to gain momentum with the creator of flirc even stating that he was even working to implement the feature in a future firmware update. However that was quite some time ago, I don't seem to see any progress on this. Can it be done? And will it be done? Would be great to experiment with this, I'd love to have a secondary function to trigger an IR Blaster to wake my TV using the apple remote.

Hi tommy, I'd guess you didn't record the power button yet (?) To do that, you need to run command prompt, navigate to the folder where you have your flirc installed and run "flirc_util.exe record power" - and press power button on your remote. let me know if it works

update: I've installed it to another PC connected to the same screen - same behavior. After boot or after waking the screen FLIRC gets stuck for few minutes. Keyboard and mouse work fine. I does not happen every time, but frequently enough to drive you crazy. When it stops responding: - rebooting flirc via flirc_util.exe reboot command does not help - if i try to record key via GUI, it records some random stuff immediately - if i reboot the PC, it starts working OK

Hi. The TiVo remotes have a switch that chooses between two TiVo units. When you set them up you choose a unit number for each one and assign a number from 2-9 for each. I want to use TiVo-2 to control the Kodi on a raspberry Pi, and the other to control the tivo itself. I also want to intercept the TiVo command to allow a Kodi plugin to switch my AVR between the TiVo and the Pi. It seems Flirc does not distinguish between the two. I know the internal data values differ in the high order bits. Any way to have separate Flirc key mapping from the two TiVo settings?

Do I understand correctly that you want to map just the Windows key to some button on the remote? You can't do that using the GUI because the Windows key is a modifier key like Shift, Ctrl and Alt keys. The GUI expects that the modifier keys are used with some non-modifier key (so you first click on the desired modifiers and then on the key you want for example ctrl + a). You need to use flirc_util (command line utility): flirc_util.exe record_api 8 0 This will record a HID code 0 (which indicates that no button has been pressed) with Left Win key as a modifier. I've tested this and it works.

Ah ha! To downgrade I found that I can run 'flirc_util.exe dfu' from a command prompt and then start flirc.exe That seems to kick in the bootloader and then things start to work. I tried all versions after 1.2.4 and all of them show the same issue for me sadly :(

Just wondering if you had any luck figuring out the issue? I ordered the remote thinking it should work fine with Flirc...however like you can program one button. Flirc acts like all the buttons are tied together and each isn't sending their own command. This makes me wonder if the remote has to be pseudo paired somehow to get all the buttons to function. Thanks!

Hi: I discovered this amazing product about a month ago. The best thing I like about the Flirc is that the HTPC is programmed to the remote's output, and not vice-versa like "universal remotes" are set up. This means that the smarts are where they belong - in the PC. I thought I would share the hurdles I had in setting up a unit the way I wanted it to run, and how I got around them. A couple words of warning - this is a little DIY. I CAN IN NO WAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RESULTS OR OUTCOME OF THIS PROJECT. If you proceed to follow these directions - you do so at your own risk, My system is custom built like most enthusiasts. It is nothing special except that it has a very porous case with lots of cooling. I do this because I have 12 TB of storage for all my movies, songs and what not. I've lost a lot of equipment in the past by letting it overheat, and that has been painful. This setup can be kind of noisy and collect a lot of dust, so I have it in a cooled entertainment center cabinet behind glass - and therein lies the problem. As you know, IR equipment does not like to work through glass. Even the BEST remotes I could find were only 85% reliable through it. In addition, the USB dongle Flirc offers did not have the ability to turn the system on and off via the IR remote from the S5 state, which meant that I STILL HAD to open the door to turn the unit on. I still wanted to use a Flirc, but I needed a receiver that could be placed away from the system outside the cabinet. Enter the Flirc SE (http://www.streacom.com/products/flirc-se-adaptive-ir-receiver/). This is a version of the Flirc made for Streacom Cases. It is a simple circuit board with the IR receiver elements on it and a couple of header connectors - AND IT HAS THE ABILITY TO ACTIVATE THE PC POWER SYSTEM. So with the Flirc SE, an old power supply box, a couple of 10 ft USB 2.0 cables (Type A Male to anything else), and an external power bracket, I was able to build something that fit my needs. STEP 1: I stripped the old Toshiba power supply keeping only the box. Pick a box which has a good size window for the IR receiver/transmitter elements in the Flirc. In addition you'll need the Flirc, a couple of 10 foot USB cables, an external power bracket, and some odds and ends including some colored acetate for the window, Epoxy, and a small standoff/other means of holding the circuit board in place. STEP 2: Epoxy the standoff in the box so that the Flirc elements are in the window and you can get at the header connectors after assembly. Set it aside to dry well. STEP 3: You'll need to be good at soldering here - The Flirc SE comes with some cords that help with installation. We will need to use the connectors from these cords. Remove the miniature ends from the 10 ft USB cord and the header connectors that came with cords on the Flirc SE, and solder the two together. CAUTION: Be sure to follow the color code/pinout standards FOR USB that can be found throughout the web. This will be how the Flirc will communicate the normal IR commands to the Flirc software. This will give you a 10 Ft. cord with a 4 pin Female USB header connector on one end and a Type A USB male connector on the other. STEP 4: Remove the ends from the 2nd USB cord and the power switch cord that came With the Flirc SE, and solder them together. The correct wiring diagram can be found at the Strecom website above under user manuals section. CAUTION: Be sure to keep track of the Positive (+) and Negative(-) terminals all the way through to the connection to the motherboard. For my setup, I used some old Molex ® connectors I had around to match the multi-Molex ® external power bracket I had already installed for some fans in an empty slot. This will give you a 10 Ft. cord with a 4 pin Female header connector on one end and (in my case) Molex connector on the other. STEP 5: Assemble the box. Be sure the tie knots in the USB cable just inside the box for strain relief. STEP 6: Wire the inside of the computer. One pair of the power switch leads from the Flirc power plug will go the computer's power switch, the other pair will go to the motherboard. CAUTION: Be sure to observe polarity throughout if there is one marked. STEP 7: Download and install the latest Flirc software and firmware. At this point in time, you will have to run the "flirc_util" command line software to record the key you wish to press to turn power on and off. That information can be found by searching out "flirc_util.exe record power" elsewhere in the forum. Please see the attached photos. Hopefully they'll help. You'll see I have an iRainey pictured here, but it doesn't matter WHAT remote you use. You're free to use any remote you want! That's about all I can think of. I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but this one worked for me, and it was FUN! Good Luck! JoeA

Hi, You can't do this in the GUI, but there is a command line tool (installed with the GUI) named flirc_util, which allows to display recorded keys: flirc_util keys There's a bug on Windows so you need to execute it with full file name: flirc_util.exe keys You need to be on one of the latest releases (1.3.5 or 1.3.6 maybe) because earlier versions haven't displayed all the keys.

Hey, I also noticed that behavior. My Harmony Ultimate One and Streacom FLIRC-SE only seem to wake my Windows 8.1 HTPC sporadically. I added an second wake command to "Watch Series/Movie" action profile to be sent when activating it. I enabled sleep detection and built-in (Harmony) profiles in the advanced options of the flirc gui. Firmware Version is 3.6. Are we doing somehing wrong? Thanks in advance.

Nope command not found, I have a crash report

command not found.. what path is it?

I would like to try this as I'm still getting double keys even after changes to both Flirc via GUI and the Harmony interface. So I open a command line, run "flirc_util.exe", get the list of commands, but obviously I'm not a DOS guru because regardless of which command I then enter at 'C:\Program Files <x86>\Flirc>" I get 'interkey_delay" or "status" or "keys" is not recognized as an internal or external command, operable program or batch file. My flirc is plugged into a USB port, and it is recognized by the GUI version of the software (although I closed the GUI before running command line tool. Any suggestions?

I'm trying to upgrade my current FLIRC package using the following command rpm -Uhv flirc-1.2.6-2.i386.rpm and it produces the following error / conflicts Preparing... ################################# [100%] file / from install of flirc-1.2.6-2.i386 conflicts with file from package filesystem-3.2-19.fc20.i686 file /lib from install of flirc-1.2.6-2.i386 conflicts with file from package filesystem-3.2-19.fc20.i686 file /usr/bin from install of flirc-1.2.6-2.i386 conflicts with file from package filesystem-3.2-19.fc20.i686 is this the latest and is there a packaging problem here?

Since some remotes send alternating codes and there are multiple questions/postings about having to record the same key twice, why not record two key presses when going through the setup? The second press could confirm the original code, or determine if the remote alternates codes between presses. If users don't want to go through this process, you could also just make this an option in the Advanced menu "My remote uses multiple codes per button". Possible workflow: 1) Press a button on the gui or use the flirc_util record command 2) Prompt user to press a button on the remote 3) User presses button on the remote 4) Acknowledge the code was received and prompt the user to press the key again 5) User presses same button again 6) Acknowledge the second press. If the codes are the same each time, record the first code. If they are different, record both. You could even prompt the user to press the button again, to recognize that the third press matches the first. This would eliminate the headache for MCE style remotes.

Just wanted to say thanks for a great product. My apologies for the long post. This is kind of a feature request/bug report of sorts. More than anything I'm sure the problem lies with the myharmony app, but I'm hoping you find this worth reading and can come up with a solution. I have run into an issue that I thought should be brought to your attention. I recently purchased a Flirc and a Harmony 650 for use with an HTPC running XBMC. The biggest motivation for me in purchasing these products was that I have an older tv that has some HDMI handshake issues with my AVR. Everything works, but only if I turn it all on in a certain order (htpc first, then avr). If I turn the avr on before the htpc, then my screen will basically flicker between on and standby every 5-10 seconds. For that reason, I purchased a Harmony 650 with the intention of using its activities to make powering everything up in the right order as simple as possible (especially for my girlfriend). While trying to set this up, I noticed an odd issue. After setting up my remote with flirc for use with xbmc, and even getting so far as to configure fully functioning buttons for putting my htpc to sleep and wake it, I then went to create the activity to turn everything on in order. I selected the flirc and my avr as the two devices to be used in this activity and instructed the myharmony app which input I wanted the receiver set to. Upon completing the creation of the activity, I tested it out and it didn't work. It turned the avr on, but not my htpc. I then went to customize the activity to see if there was something I could change to get the functionality I wanted and that's when I noticed it: in the table showing the activity startup commands, the only thing being listed as being turned on was the avr (the flirc was nowhere to be seen). Of course, I could add the flirc and the command that I had bound to wake the htpc up from sleep...but only after turning the avr on (the activity startup commmands has a default order of execution that can't be edited or reordered). This was the exact opposite functionality that I needed from this in order to avoid the hdmi handshake issues I mentioned. I then went and loaded one of the Panasonic TV profiles and configured all of the buttons manually with flirc, essentially following all of the same steps as before. But this time when I made the activity the myharmony app listed turning on the Panasonic TV (my htpc in this case) first and then turning on the avr. This was exactly what I was hoping to achieve. However, I much preferred how the htpc responded to controls from the flirc profile than from the Panasonic TV profile in regards to delays etc. I noticed that the flirc profile didn't actually have a command titled "Power On" and thought that might have something to do with it. So I grabbed an old remote and used it to teach an IR signal to my Harmony 650 with the intention of using it as a "Power On" signal. However, the original behavior where the receiver was listed as the first (and only) device to be turned on repeated itself. I've included screen caps of the flirc and Panasonic profile activity startup command tables so you can see what I'm talking about. Is there something inherently different about the myharmony Flirc profile as compared to the Panasonic TV profile that is preventing me from using it how I'm wanting to? Would it be possible for any changes to be made to the Flirc profile so that it behaves like the Panasonic profile does so it can get listed as the first device to be turned on?