jason
-
Posts
3,758 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
233
Posts posted by jason
-
-
On 5/10/2023 at 12:32 PM, geobrick said:
Jason, Just found this thread for adding new devices but I think I'm missing a step.
1) I added the config file to enable admin mode.
2) I can create a comma delimited text file with the naming convention you described. "Brand-Model-Type1#Type2#...#TypeN.txt" and add the codes I need (assuming I find them).
3) Once that file is completed, I would import it using the "add" option in admin mode.What I'm missing is how the .txt file created to import using the admin mode becomes the .json file that you and others are sharing. And if I want to use one of those shared .json files, what folder would I place it in?
I missed this, I'm sorry. The GUI automatically converts a text into the JSON that you see in the screen after the import. You can simply highlight and copy and paste the result into a text file and rename it with an extension .json.
When I send a json file, I use a python script I wrote to convert the text file into json, since there is are a few other details that are not required in text files, but I like to include.
-
Fixed in the latest update.
-
On 4/9/2023 at 10:01 AM, tommyboy39 said:
Good day,
When I pre-ordered the skip 1s back in December of 2022, the skip web site stated that they would be shipping in February of 2023. The email confirmation I received states shipping in Fall of 2022. It is now April 9, 2023 and I have not received any notification about shipping. I have made 2 attempts so far to contact you via a reply email (one on 3.25.2023 and another on 3.30.203.) and both have gone unanswered to this point. The email states I can reply to it or send an email to noreply@flirc.tv. I have not tried the noreply@flirc.tv as of yet. I guess I will try it as well and see what happens.
I get the whole supply chain thing, bugs and fixes, delays, and that you are at the mercy of the ones putting these devices together for you but some type update would be nice, especially since it did not ship out on time.Sending again. I've sent another 300 out and should get the rest soon, see the larger thread on this, and I'm so so sorry.
-
I'm sorry, I missed your post it was in the wrong category. Try the latest update, it should unbrick it.
-
No it's not being ignored. It's generally very hard to stay on top of everything, since this was a duplicate issue in the beta firmware forum. I thought I was communicating with everyone in the topic, and did not see this. Should be fixed, you should have received an update notification in the app along with a firmware update once downloaded. New firmware resolves quite a few issues.
-
I'm sorry, it's been increasing
On 5/24/2023 at 2:52 PM, RemotelyInteresting said:OK, I appreciate your your reflective candor. But I guess we have different definitions with "communicate." Because you haven't communicated anything.
For example: How many units have been delivered? How many have been "pre-ordered" (see, I don't even know what that is supposed to mean, or a damn thing about your Kickstarted campaign)? How many are on order? How many are expected for delivery? When?
I didn't SHOUT those questions because I've been party to bootstrapped operations myself. But with a post-graduate degree in "communications," I know something about the word and you guys should probably look it up in a dictionary.
To communicate, when somebody asks "when," you provide a date or an estimated date. All you are doing is "communicating" to your customers that you don't have a clue. For example: "the next update" has no meaning to mean since the word "next" suggests I've gotten an update already. And if you are referring to your comments above, those are not reflective of the word "update" any more than they are "communicating."
But to reiterate comments above, I love Jason's stuff. Big fan. Flirc USB changed my life way back. But you are screwing this up because you are NOT communicating.
You are awesome and completely validated. I'm really sorry. It's been really rough. I'm working with a huge supplier and I'm lucky they are working with me, but I'm at their mercy. Dates are meaningless to them. I get promised a date, we go past it, they claim there is a problem, we solve it, then it's something else, like a defect in a part made, we solve it. I'm shipping again, I started two weeks ago. They should have sent all 3,500 at once, but they are a bunch of fuckheads and I'm getting them in small batches. I'm sending the same day they come out, and I have shipped 300 since this started a couple of days ago. I'm being promised another 2,000 will be ready to ship to me on Tuesday. I believe they will this time because they were waiting on USB cables they forgot to order, and I know they have them from the supplier because I escalated directly with them. Last shipment was received in about 4-5 days.
They got the cables, they have them in the boxes, and we have a pick up scheduled. But I've held my breath before.
Since starting, I've shipped close to 2,000 units (yup, me). Once I get the rest, every single pre-order should ship and I should have no more stock issues. I'll have help, and it should take about two days to ship them all out.
The last thing I said to my CM who's managing the schedule was: "I have broken the trust and confidence of my customers. I have never done this or had this happen with a supplier."
She had no response. I'll never do this again. I'll have units in hand prior to selling. It's the worst feeling watching someone pull the rug out from underneath you. Lesson learned. But, their quality assurance has been by far the best of any supplier I've ever worked with. Usually, I get angry because they fuck something up. So far everything has been very well received.
Will be back by tuesday to confirm shipment. Grateful for the support along with the criticism. Well deserved.-
3
-
-
On 5/29/2023 at 1:09 PM, jason said:
I’m almost done redoing all my build tools so this will be included in the release.
I've pushed updates. My effort was focused on fixing auto-updates, linux builds, pi builds, deb packages, etc. I don't know where I left flirc_util, however another utility is now included called irtools.
This is my go to app for debugging protocols, transmitting, etc.
Since it runs on a different interface, you can run it along side the flirc GUI and both apps will be able to open and communicate with the device.
You can use irtools to listen in raw mode. You can also live decode showing the results of my own decoder, the arduino decoder, and decodeir (similar to irscrutinizer)
You can listen and print out pronto equivalent codes
You can transmit using raw codes, or pronto codes.
I do not support transmitting with protocols yet (XMP, HEX: 0x21314) for example.I do not do any edge cleanup. Meaning, if I successfully decode a protocol, I will eventually take the signal, clean up the edges so they are idealized against what the protocol specifies, and reprint those out.
I will also eventually turn this into a library. -
On 6/3/2023 at 6:31 AM, borez said:
Sorry to hear that. You might want to try taking out the batteries, and replug it into another USB port. Restart the computer and run the firmware updater without running the main Skip App. There was a "new hardware" chime when I plugged the bricked device, so my device was likely in "bootloader" mode.
I realise all prior software versions have been removed, leaving all users stranded. There are 2 workarounds - either updating the firmware manually to 4.12.18, or ignore the firmware update.
My remote is now extremely buggy regardless of firmware version. The remote simply refuses to light up after I unplug it from a sync.
EDIT: Attributed this to dead batteries - the stock batteries were completely drained despite not using the remote.@jason @Nathan - please pull the software release and fix this hot mess.
Manual firmware update
1) Locate the 4.12.18 firmware in your Program Files > WindowsApp folder. For me it was located in "C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\SkipApp_0.9.80.6008_x64__sddpyax1dmvqm\Assets". Firmware file is "skip.1s.a06.bin"
2) Extract that file and manually flash the device using the standalone updater.
3) Once firmware is successfully flashed, run Skip app. Everything should be back to normal.
Cancel firmware update
The app button shows "UPDATE" by default. Click on it, and click the "x" button on top. You should be able to sync. The UI/UX is misleading - the software should never encourage a firmware update just to use the app.
The default brightness is too high, you should lower it to 30%.
The new firmware you are using has low voltage protection. If the LEDS are fully bright, and you hit to transmit, it will appear buggy and turn off if the batteries are not high enough to support the current. Without this, we run the risk of restarting the firmware, losing your current profile, or memory corruption. Once you have the new firmware, lower the brightness, newer batteries, things will be much more stable and last a lot longer.When you unplug the remote, the leds auto shut off. This is what you are seeing. The reason is the remote is lighting LEDS based off what you are doing in the GUI. Once disconnected, to protect the batteries and power drain, the LEDS are shutoff, regardless if it was on from the GUI, or if you pressed a button on the remote.
All versions are still available in the forum.
USB upgrades was delayed since January because of various windows issues. We've spent a long time on it, tested months. It's very likely there are issues we haven't caught, but there is nothing we can do, I can't delay firmware forever, never upgrade, and leave features unreleased because of windows bullshit. So we do as much as we possibly can, release it, and as soon as we hear about something like this, we will focus on it to catch a corner case we couldn't reproduce.
I'm sorry to everyone having trouble. I just saw this in the forums, and will now focus on it. I know it appears we are this massive company, I've got 4 people, I do all the firmware, and only one developer doing the GUI now. The other full time people are not technical. My experience and adversity will shine through, and I'll help resolve this.
Again, so sorry for the initial disappointment. I'll follow-up again soon.
-
On 6/3/2023 at 8:20 AM, iBobZero said:
I am also impacted my remote appears bricked since the last update. I have also tried the steps above but the remote is no longer detected. I ended up creating a new topic for me. However I am definitely getting the same issue @gelein and @monkeybrew are getting.
If you go to system information, do you see the remote under USB devices? Hold down option, click the apple icon in the upper left corner. Click on System Information.
-
I'm not sure, this is new. If you right click the msix, and 'run as administrator', does anything different happen?
Did you have any previous version installed ever? If so, did it work?
I'm running on the same version in windows 11. Everything online points to a windows error when this occurs, but like everything, is unhelpful about resolution... -
I’m almost done redoing all my build tools so this will be included in the release.
-
38 minutes ago, snds said:
I have 3 Skip remotes, 1 for my office, 1 for my living room, and 1 for my bedroom. None of them are connecting or being detected by the Skip software on either Mac or PC. I have tried the supplied USB-C cables for each, as well as 3 other known working USB-C cables. The batteries are installed and each remote lights up with pressing the multi-colored button.
Can someone give me a hand here?
Had you recently done a firmware upgrade? Was it ever able to connect? Did it specifically happen on an update?
-
13 minutes ago, infrb said:
I posted it in my previous message at the top. It's the flirc<date>.log, right?
I missed it, I invited you to slack so we make less noise and can debug better.
-
19 minutes ago, infrb said:
Here's the app log
flirc20230511.log
Nothing really different in behavior before. Just inconsistent/unresponsive powering on/off. And this isn't related to the xfinity box at all. The TV doesn't power on/off.
When I hit the power button on the remote and nothing happens, I see the color wheel light up and wait for that to stop. I'll then hit the B button just to see if the remote is responsive and not in a crashed state. When I see the B button light up, I'll hit power again, and often times nothing happens.
I then thought that maybe I have too many repeats on the B activity when powering on the TV, so I reduced that back down to 1. That didn't make much of a difference. Which answers your other question on whether I got the GUI/App to work, I did with the new build.
So at this point I'm no further along with the new firmware. Without remote logs though, I don't think there's much data I can give you to help.
The TV powering on/off on the other activities is also inconsistent, it's not just the B activity.
EDIT: Also just noticed that with the remote just sitting on the table for a few minutes, went to unmute by hitting the mute button and it didn't respond. The B activity light didn't light up either. If I repeatedly hit the mute button, the B activity light eventually lit up and unmuted. I don't know if this is a "crash" or if the remote is going into power-save or some other state.
okay, just tried, and I'm able to pull logs. Can you send me your app logs?
-
37 minutes ago, infrb said:
All good. Testing some things out tonight and am having very inconsistent power on/off behavior. When trying to look at logs I see the following. The remote log with today's date is also blank.
I think as long as you are no longer seeing the remote crashing, it's good. I'm not sure about the log issue, I will try and reproduce this. Can you post your applog? Maybe that will show us something.
What is different in the behavior from before? And how is it acting now? Did you update your GUI settings?
-
17 hours ago, jason said:
@infrb We are finding issues specifically on windows. It's really silly, it's all caused due to me updating the firmware version to the correct board. Customers have A6. If you have a mac, it should be fine. Otherwise, we should have an update soon. Sorry about this.
-
-
40 minutes ago, infrb said:
After applying the firmware, had some issues trying to power off my B (xfinity) activity - TV wouldn't turn off. I then went to connect the remote to grab the logs from the skip app, but I can't. The skip app keeps crashing when I connect the remote. Attached the flirc log, running the nightly builds.
flirc20230510.log
Oh yeah. Let me give you a new gui to try. Hang on.
-
9 hours ago, jason said:
Okay. I made some progress. Memory corruption faults are hard to solve. They can happen a completely different area. But I think I found the cause and am doing a few things to prevent this from happening. I should have an update today with a few improvements.
@infrb okay, I think I found a few issues that could have caused this.
I also added an animation during macro playback.I also block all key presses during this playback, and no longer queue keys, since this was causing a lot of issues. (You don't know you are still playing back, and then you could queue up another macro playback and your remote seems stuck).
I fixed several other bugs and other issues.
If your xfinity is not responding during this playback, it probably has something to do with their receiver. Increase the repeats we send out, not so much the delay. Let me know how this goes. I have a few more things I want to add before really pushing this to a wider audience, but I have to make sure we get rid of the crashes. -
On 5/3/2023 at 7:28 PM, infrb said:
I came back to the TV tonight after the remote was sitting for about 24 hours. I was able to turn the TV on, switch activities, etc. But then when trying to turn on and then off my B activity, the remote wouldn't respond. I then just kept trying to power B on and off and on and off (I'd wait about 20 seconds between each power on/off attempt). It would sometimes respond, but more often than not, I wouldn't get a response (either on or off). Very inconsistent.
I'm not sure how helpful this log is going to be. I don't see much here aside from power button presses. The remote logs that power is pressed and then released, but that doesn't always translate to the TV turning on or off. I don't know if it's a weak signal coming from the remote or not. The IR lights when viewing through a cell phone camera turn on, so I can see that a command is actually sent.
The original remotes for each device work fine, so I know it's not related to that or environment.
It'd be helpful in the logging to see when A, B, or C is pressed, followed by if the power button is turning on or off an activity, followed by the devices that the remote is sending an IR command for and any delay or repeats that the remote is doing.Okay. I made some progress. Memory corruption faults are hard to solve. They can happen a completely different area. But I think I found the cause and am doing a few things to prevent this from happening. I should have an update today with a few improvements.
-
1
-
-
Make sure ADB debugging is off.
-
22 hours ago, infrb said:
The B activity light does light up, but in some cases if I hit the power button multiple times, sometimes the B button light is delayed in responding. The remote will queue up the commands and the B light will light up even if I am not currently hitting the power button. In some cases the TV will turn on or off (depending on whatever command actually made it to the TV), but often the remote is just in a bad state.
I'm unable to reproduce this. If you reproduce it again, can you grab a log. I see the crash line, I'm not certain the cause yet or the calling function of the problem. Before I add a bit more logging, I'd like to see if it's consistent. Also, please help a bit with what buttons pressed before crashing. How long was the remote sitting there. Which activity were you in, and what buttons did you press? How long was it 'okay' before crashing.
I have a funny feeling the original problem has been fixed. A lot of people reported crashing here, and it's gone silent after I put in a bunch of other fixes.
-
6 hours ago, infrb said:
flirc-remote-control20230430.log
Here's a remote control log of when I turned off Profile C and switched to Profile B. As I made the switch to Profile B and hit the Power button, nothing happened on the TV. I tried to power on quite a few times but the TV didn't respond. The log indicates there was a hardware exception.
It seems like whenever I have issues, it's always with Profile B. Profile C works well for the most part, but switching to B, and even interacting with B has inconsistent button presses. This is my Xfinity activity, which I think you had plans to tweak to make it more responsive, but even without those tweaks, my biggest issues are just switching to the activity from either profile A or C.Thank you, this is very helpful. Can you post your config? When you hit 'b' does the activity 'b' light up showing you the profile is enabled?
Do you hit the power button in A, or C, before hitting B?
-
I will get the raspberry pi versions up to date this week
T+A DAC 8 not in your list
in Supported Devices / Databases
Posted
One month was fucked because I was in the hospital for a week and needed to recover. Then I had to somehow manage to catch up on an already 7 day work week.
I know there were a few of your protocols we did together that was missing a few things. I'll now take a look at them this week. Sorry for the delay. I'm just one person.