Jump to content
Flirc Forums


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by jason

  1. Just now, virtualshock said:

    I don't think this is limited to multiple activities.  I only have Activity A on my 2 remotes. After some amount of time after Powering On if I hit the Power button it does not send the Power Off.   It seems to send the Power On again because my video inputs are resent which is only specified in the Power On sequence.  If I immediately hit the Power button again the Power Off sequence is sent.  Maybe there is a reboot/reset happening.

    @virtualshockwill have a fix posted really soon, everything is taking a lot longer with random things coming up, but I'm really almost there for a ton of stuff


    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. 2 hours ago, theboomr said:

    Just tried it out! Short answer, yes it's working on my desktop now! Longer answer: I open the new Skip App, connect my remote, and I get the UAC prompt before it opens the terminal window. After the terminal opens, I get a successful connection. But then, if I close the terminal popup, I get a second UAC prompt and a new terminal comes up for a few seconds, then it and the Skip app both close down on their own. If I leave the remote connected and re-open the Skip app after this, it is successfully staying connected without having to open a new terminal window; but, if I disconnect and reconnect the remote, it needs to open a new terminal window again, seemingly every single time I plug the remote back in.

    How much of that is expected behavior?


    EDIT: Also worth noting that this new installer installed the latest version as a totally separate instance of the app, unlike all the previous installers where it updated the same installation.

    Nothing is expected. What's expected is that Steam isn't a fucking asshole. Looks like they leaved their software running and it's constantly changing the field. I think this is a proof of concept that works, and needs some time and cleanup.

    • Like 1

    Posted  · IP  (edited

    I agree with most of your feedback, reply inline:


    1) I don't keep my PC in the living room. This needs to be a mobile phone app very badly. So frustrating. So I tried to setup my bedroom TV, which has many, many less devices, just the native fireTV (TV has fireTV built-in) and a shieldTV. Still didn't work due to reasons below.  

    - I don't have a solution for this, it'll come when it comes. That's why we chose react native desktop, so we have an easy path forward. But quite frankly, supporting android is going to be as bad as our windows development has been

    2) App is slow, animations are glacial.  

    - Windows performance is horrible, mac is like butter. You'd think microsoft would put more love into their own OS, but we have an entire branch for windows performance fixes and it's much better. It's coming after we fix windows USB bullshit.

    3) Getting to button remapping is extraordinarily counterintuitive. You need to go to activities and then click the little right arrow to get there.  

    - We'll open this after the activity is created, or make it so the app forces you too like the wizard, would that help?

    4) The "tips" panel on the right appears to have movies from a completely different piece of software. There is no "filter view" etc. C'mon.  

    - There are some small things that are not public, but it's not all that bad. Most is relevant.

    5) As mentioned in many other posts, since it doesn't have my devices listed I need to basically check all of them. Since my PC isn't in the living room this is an extremely frustrating experience.  

    6) Commands are missing. I can't find any way to "home" on the toshiba fireTV in my bedroom. None of the many, many commands labeled "menu", menu main, menu quick, men top, etc, do it. The only way for me to go to the internal fireTV input is to use the "input scroll" command (discovered via laborious trial and error trying EVERY SINGLE INPUT.) I did of course have to try EVERY single toshiba TV listed as well.

    - What device did you end up picking that is working? Do you have the original remote? Is it IR or bluetooth?

    7) Erasing a command is annoying. You need to precisely click on the little trashcan and then hold the button there for a second. Very poor UI, I find myself failed to delete over half the time. There should be a drag handle to reorder, so a single click works to delete.  

    - Yes, believe me, I know. We have this fixed in nightly. Dragging and the duplication bug is fixed too. All this got held up because of windows. After shipping a bunch of units, the app wont connect. Apparently windows wants everyone to use UWP apps, but allows other apps outside of UWP to change the permission of our own USB devices so we can't connect, but provide no way to easily change this back. 

    8) Since there's no way to give a CEC menu or home command there's no way to go home on the ShieldTV either (as it does not have built-in IR) unless you use a Flirc USB. That isn't necessarily the skip1s's fault, but it is a major obstacle to switching (in that I would not switch).  

    - Why do you need CEC if the firetv is built into the TV? I'm not following, however, I think that if it's a toshiba tv, there must be a code to support this that we have to discover.

    9) Even though many models of the ShieldTV don't have IR, the app lets you pick it anyway. This led to a lot of head-scratching for me until I realized what was up.

    - Some shields have IR. We will list the models so it's not confusing. Would that help? Does yours have IR?

    Not to be completely negative, in the pros column, syncing is really quick, easy, and works flawlessly. Unfortunately that's the only positive feedback from me.

    I could go on if I were still trying to use the remote, but at this point I'm giving up until a lot of development goes into the software. This device is not usable for my purposes. I hope the app and the overall experience improves. Until that day comes, it will be sitting in a drawer.

    - I have to respectfully disagree with your conclusion. While the software needs a lot of work, it's objective is to get your remote setup, and you should never have to mess with it again for 2 years until your setup changes. The hardware is solid. If the software is not permitting you to even get set-up, than I need to help you get past that.  Please let me know what I can do.

  4. 14 hours ago, Tony said:

    I was wondering if it would be possible to put together some sort of guide of what to do if you want to help out with debugging? This thread is getting quite long and if you haven't been involved from the start it can be a bit hard to follow what needs to be done if you want to test things. I'm scheduled to receive my remote this week and I have had problems with the app on Win10 so if you need more people reproduce errors I am willing to help and if there was a simple enough step-by-step guide of things to try, where to find logs etc I'm sure more people would be willing to help when they get their remotes.

    Just a thought :)

    Sorry for being quiet. We've made progress, can reproduce the issue, and are working on trying some solutions.

    Big shout out to Michael (Misha) who was two steps ahead of us and did incredible finding nuggets of information scattered on the internet.

    Seems like a number of applications, virus programs, system apps, Steam (yes, fucking steam), changes a field in the system registry for every USB HID Device's "restricted" boolean from "false" to "true". Why? No idea. Uninstalling the application does not revert the registry change, which validates what some of you experienced. Steam can install advanced drivers to help support controllers like XBOX-360, and this is what changes the field for that specific app.

    We are trying to create a version of the app that detects this, and updates the field. But this is not so simple. UWP apps don't have permission, and we have to do a run-around. But this seems possible, and the path of least resistance. We have some other ideas, but this seems like the best approach.

    Un. Fucking. Believable.


    • Like 4
  5. 1 hour ago, PaleBlueDot said:

    The interkey / inter-action delay doesn't appear to do anything.

    Specifically, I have the power on and off sequences set to turn on/off my TV, Satellite Receiver, and Sound System (i.e. three button presses). However, the remote outputs the key-presses one after another with zero noticeable delay in between.

    This is evidenced by the fact that if you look at the front of the remote with your phone camera, you can see the IR light flashing. It sends out a bunch of pulses, that last maybe half a second in total, right at the start, then nothing, even after several seconds. It's pretty random which of the three devices turns on and off.

    If I set the Delay slider to  4s, 6s, 8s, etc it makes no difference. Nothing is output after that first burst in the first second.

    I would have expected that if the Delay was set to X Seconds on the first and second action, it would send the TV Power On command, wait X seconds, send the Sat Receiver Power On command, wait X seconds, then send the Sound System Power on. But this definitely isn't happening.

    Settings Export attached.

    Front Room.skip 131 kB · 0 downloads

    I’ll take a look. I’ll be out most of today but should have something to say about it tomorrow. 

    • Like 1
  6. 19 minutes ago, bantar said:

    Seeing your profile issue noted prior to me installing, I chose to create a brand new profile.   I installed on that profile, so I don't expect a corrupted profile.   It exists for the sole purpose of testing Skip.   I do have BitDefender installed, but nothing ASUS related.  I'm on a Dell Laptop.   It's easy enough to disable BitDefender to see if anything changes.

    I've never downloaded the software from the website, because I didn't know where to look.  Was looking on the forums page.    I can try it when I get home.

    I loaded 5276, and when poking around, it wanted to update to 5293.  When that happened, no connections to the remote were possible.  Downgraded to 5276 and it worked fine.  I wonder what version is on the website?  I'm guessing 5293.   Secondly, I've not tried a clean install of 5293 either.

    We have read bit defender can be the cause, and other protection programs. More troubling, they add to the registry, even after uninstalling, these entries need to be manually removed. Trying to determine if that's the cause, although you can connect, so that's not this for you. @bantar

  • Create New...