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Hi All, I've been contemplating how best to make sure users don't buy Flirc is it doesn't suit their needs, equally encouraging them to buy it if it does. To this end I think it would be a great idea to involve the great community here on the forums so you can chime in with your pro's and cons. Ideally i'm trying to make it easy to skim through and read so request we all use the same basic template: Giving something to easily read through. Note: This isn't a requests, support or questions thread - please start a new thread for these. Any posts will be moved out by Myself, Jason or Digitalb0y Pleasant regards, Chris

farewell, but point is, just add a profile of a device you dont have in your HTPC setup, and as the author JASON suggested, i too, strongly suggest you add a TV profile, example either a Panasonic TC-P65VT30 or SAMSUNG LN46C650L1F!! i tested both of these TV profile and they work %100!! No repeat key issues and if you hold down left or right arrow, it'll scroll fast!! then using the HARMONY software or MyHarmony.com just make sure to not leave buttons un'asssigned on which ever profile you use becuz if u do, those un'assigned buttons wont be map'able using FLIRC's GUI! So dont go crazy here, the point is simply to assign actions to buttons on your remote,, which action it is and on which buttons its assigned FLIRC doesnt care! Like i said, your official map'ing will be done using FLIRC's GUI anyways! and also, make sure to not assign the same action twice here!! So use different actions for each buttons! this will prevent the famous 'Button already exists' error from showing up when you'll configure your harmony using FLIRC's GUI! give it a shoti! :)

First off I just want to say that I really enjoy using my flirc, thanks for making such a great product! That said, I really think this should be the default behavior of the wake command (to also put the computer to sleep when pressed) but that may not be possible so here is my solution. Sorry this is so long but that's only because it goes step by step by step. :) Obtain the beta firmware and utility. Current ones as of this writing available After you extract the zip you might need to move the firmware file to the same folder the flirc_util.exe file is in. Open a command prompt and navigate to the folder flirc_util.exe is in. If you have already set up your remote buttons then you should back up your flirc's config, Type flirc_util saveconfig myConfig Then to upgrade the firmware type flirc_util upgrade fw_255.9.bin You can then reload your config flirc_util loadconfig myConfig.fcfg You can now record a button to wake up your computer when it is sleeping. If the button you want to use is already mapped to something you will have to clear it first with flirc_util delete and press the button on your remote that needs to be cleared. Then record the wake command flirc_util record wake and press the button on your remote you want. To make the flirc able to wake the computer type flirc_util suspend_detect enable (there are still bugs and error messages when this is enabled but you can mostly ignore them.) Save your flirc config again now flirc_util saveconfig myConfigWake At this point you should have a remote that will wake your computer from sleep. Its always good to test things so go ahead and try it out! So now that that works we need a way to put your computer to sleep. Eskro has made a great guide on how to do that with a system call shortcut. But we need to put these two together somehow. So instead of a shortcut to a system call we will make a shortcut to a .bat file that will make the system call and other various things. Before you go any further you should move the flirc_util.exe and your myConfigWake.fcfg somewhere more organized. Mine are at C:\HTPC\Flirc. In this folder create a new txt file and name it Sleep.bat Right click on the Sleep.bat and click edit then paste this into it and save it. cd c:\HTPC\Flirc flirc_util loadconfig myConfigWake.fcfg flirc_util suspend_detect enable rundll32 powrprof.dll,SetSuspendState So there is a little bit more in there then just the sleep command but it will soon be clear why. Next we need a way to run this bat file. In Eskro's thread some people suggested creating a shortcut in your startmenu or on the desktop that has a shortcut key. That worked fine for me until I started XBMC and then it wouldn't work any more so I made an AutoHotKey script for it instead and haven't had any more problems. So go download AutoHotKey and install it. Make another txt file and name it Sleep.ahk. Right click on Sleep.ahk and click edit then paste this into it, save it, close it, and double click it to run it. ^!s::Run C:\HTPC\Flirc\Sleep.bat Also we need to make a shortcut of Sleep.ahk and put that in the startup folder in the startmenu. The ^!s in the AHK script means ctrl-alt-s. You can make this anything you want, just make it something you are not using already. We need to setup flirc now to make one of the buttons on your remote press ctrl-alt-s or whatever you made it to be. Actually we're not going to make just any button do that, we need to make the same button that wakes up your computer to press those keys. So back to the command prompt! Type: cd c:\HTPC\Flirc flirc_util delete flirc_util record_api 5 22 flirc_util saveconfig myConfigSleep If you are not using ctrl-alt-s then you will need to give the record_api command different arguments to reflect your hotkey. You can type flirc_util record_api help for the syntax and you can look up the list of HID codes starting on page 53 of this pdf file. We need to make one more .bat file that will be run by windows Task Scheduler when windows is coming out of sleep mode. Create a new .txt file and name it setFlircSleep.bat. Right click setFlircSleep.bat and click edit and paste this code into it and save it. cd c:\HTPC\Flirc flirc_util suspend_detect disable flirc_util loadconfig myConfigSleep.fcfg Now hit start and in the search bar type Event Viewer (yes Event Viewer, not Task Scheduler.) On the left side expand Windows Logs and click on System. You should have some recent events from when you were testing your wake button with a source listed as "Power-Troubleshooter" and an Event ID of "1". Right click on one of them and click Attatch Task To This Event. Click Next, Next, Next, then click browse and find your setFlircSleep.bat file. One last thing to do is to make a shortcut to setFlircSleep.bat and put that in the startup folder in the startmenu. This is to ensure that in the off chance that your computer loses power while it's sleeping, the remote will still be able to put the computer back to sleep when it turns back on. The final contents of my c:\HTPC\Flirc folder are: flirc_util.exe Sleep.ahk myConfigSleep.fcfg myConfigWake.fcfg setFlircSleep.bat Sleep.bat and both Sleep.ahk and setFlircSleep.bat have shortcuts in the startup folder. And thats it! Congratulations on setting up sleep/wake on the same button with your flirc! note: The use of the flirc_util suspend_detect enable and disable commands may be unnecessary with future firmware. They definitely help at the moment but it still might not work every time. I only tested this on Windows 7 64bit but it should work fine on other versions. Also I consider this solution a super messy hack (reprogramming the whole flirc config twice every cycle lol) and I hope this functionality will eventually be supported in the main application but its working fine for me and I'm happy with it.

How to prepare your Harmony Remote before Mapping it with FLIRC? Hi guys, best thing to do is add a one of these 2 TV profiles to your Harmony remote, example either a Panasonic TC-P65VT30 or SAMSUNG LN46C650L1F!! And of course, dont choose the same TV brand you own. i tested both of these TV profile and they work %100!! No repeat key issues and if you hold down left or right arrow, it'll scroll fast!! then using the HARMONY desktop software or MyHarmony.com just make sure to not leave buttons un'asssigned on your chosen TV profile becuz if u do, those un'assigned buttons wont be map'able using FLIRC's GUI! So dont go crazy here, the point is simply to assign actions to buttons on your remote,, which action it is and on which buttons its assigned FLIRC doesnt care! Like i said, your official map'ing will be done using FLIRC's GUI anyways! and also, make sure to not assign the same action twice here!! So use different actions for each buttons! this will prevent the famous 'Button already exists' error from showing up when you'll configure your harmony using FLIRC's GUI! Happy Mapping!! :)

Sorry for not replying, I'm a wee bit tired. We got them in Tuesday and have been powering through them. I have a few hundred left to go. I have the entire "team" helping. Don't get mad if your label is crooked.

Here we go... See attached file for: Windows 7 + XBMC + FLIRC + Harmony 650. I open XBMC when I log into my media account, no password on that since it has no permission rights except read to media folders. Shut down XBMC when I leave or let the laptop sleep. XBMC Keyboard FLIRC.rtf

Sorry for being quiet. We've made progress, can reproduce the issue, and are working on trying some solutions. Big shout out to Michael (Misha) who was two steps ahead of us and did incredible finding nuggets of information scattered on the internet. Seems like a number of applications, virus programs, system apps, Steam (yes, fucking steam), changes a field in the system registry for every USB HID Device's "restricted" boolean from "false" to "true". Why? No idea. Uninstalling the application does not revert the registry change, which validates what some of you experienced. Steam can install advanced drivers to help support controllers like XBOX-360, and this is what changes the field for that specific app. We are trying to create a version of the app that detects this, and updates the field. But this is not so simple. UWP apps don't have permission, and we have to do a run-around. But this seems possible, and the path of least resistance. We have some other ideas, but this seems like the best approach. Un. Fucking. Believable.

The basics of how it all works, just in case: Start with the Harmony config since this seems to be tripping you up. You only need to pick one device for your Shield profile, and (ironically enough) you don't want to pick "Shield TV" WITH the Harmony since that profile is for models that have IR (or WiFi/BT if you have the Harmony hub) and you don't want that since you are using a FLIRC. Just pick something that has a lot of buttons available (for flexibility) and won't interfere with any other devices you have. A lot of us here us the ViewTV AT-163 profile. Pick it and name it whatever you want, like "Shield TV" :) Now your Harmony is programmed to send IR signals for all (or at least most) of it's buttons. *It doesn't matter what those signals are* as long as they are each unique and don't accidentally trigger other equipment (which is why the AT-163 is a good choice....unless of course you have one :) ). All that matters is that when you press a button, a unique IR command is blasted out. The FLIRC will do the rest. Now, the FLIRC. The FLIRC dongle takes those discreet IR signals and translates them to commands the Shield TV understands. When you program the FLIRC via its application and assign IR commands to buttons you want to make sure you use the Shield layout first, for the basics, because Jason updated the software with the correct commands the Shield needs. Specifically, the "ok" button now functions correctly cross-app. So choose that profile and manually (don't click "Go" and have it do it automatically, that will map some commands you want for Kodi later twice) click each button, then press the corresponding button on your Harmony remote to map it. Basically, the 4 directions, the "ok" button, the back button, and the home button. Pick the buttons on your Harmony you want to do those functions (should be obvious) and have at it. Once you've done that, bring up the Kodi layout. Now you can program buttons for things like Play, Pause, ff/rw, etc. If you want even more control, skip the Kodi layout and use the full keyboard layout instead. Pull up (or print) this page for reference: http://kodi.wiki/view/Keyboard_controls . That's a complete list of keyboard shortcuts for Kodi. You can assign buttons to whatever keys on the keyboard you want. Don't forget that with most Harmony's you can also create custom buttons if you want to map advanced stuff, like for subtitles. Again, it doesn't matter what IR commands are assigned to the Harmony for each button, as long as it is discreet! The FLIRC is going to take whatever IR signal you sent it and translate that to the correct keyboard command. Doing this will give you: Basic Shield remote functionality across all applications (except voice control, since there's no mic on the Harmony.) Advanced keymap control for apps that support full keyboard commands - like Kodi. Get it?

OK. I was able to get it working by right clicking the Flirc device in the Device Manager and select Update Driver Software. Then select Browse My Computer and point it to Program Files (x86) > Flirc > Driver > usb_driver All working good now.

Let me start out by saying my problem only occurs with a specific remote code which I am trying to use to get more buttons working. Flirc works quite well when I used any other code with my BellTV remote and my fallback is to simply reload a previously saved configuration. However, I would like to get more keys working. Specifically, I want to get all the PVR (DVR) keys to work on this remote. It's similar, if not identical, to Dish remotes. I am using FW1.0 with GUI0.96. The issues also occur with the recent Release Candidates including 1.0.0.3 release hours ago. I'm trying to use the remote code as described but get the issues as mentioned in the subject line when trying to record buttons. Here is a very simple demonstration using the command line: C:\>flirc_util.exe format Formatting Device, please wait... Done! C:\>flirc_util.exe record 1 Press any button on the remote to link it with '1' Error: button already exists It's appears to be random how many buttons I can record before I get that error message. If I try again, I'll be able to record the button. After this, however, the buttons will not be mapped correctly. Pressing 9 will send a 7, for example. I've uploaded the config file from this particular example session. Flashing to new/old firmware and erasing/formating the configuration hasn't helped. I have a second flirc and it exhibits similar behaviour with this remote code. Doug flirc.fcfg

It's exactly the same feeling. Right now, with the Harmony, if I quickly press, say 6 times the right button, after I have lifted my finger the last time I still see on screen three right button events. Wheres with the Hauppauge RC5 remote, with each key configured twice which doesn't allow me to use all the keys due to lack of space, if I do the same, press six times the right button, when I lift my finger the last time, nearly at the same time (I think it is less than 50ms) the sixth right button event completes on screen. The lag is there and it is noticeable. Sigh. I'm not unhappy with Flirc, on the contrary, I love it, but I still lack a complete solution. I'll get in contact with Jason then. Thanks for the support. By the way, I tried the MCE profile and the problem remains. I'm beginning to think that pretty much everybody here is having these delays, only they don't know it can behave much better.

I know what you mean with project butter - you don't notice it until you have it and look back. I think I understand better what you mean now regarding flirc. Progress on newer versions of Flirc isn't as quick due to Jason being the main developer (as you mentioned), however if you are really unhappy with Flirc get in contact with Jason and i'm sure he'll sort something out - he wants you to be happy with flirc.

I will try using an MCE profile and report back. Indeed, you can´t change that setting on the Harmony 300i. I can´t say it doesn´t work. It does, but after having used a remote which is buttery smooth, you do notice the difference, like going from a 2.x to a JellyBean (4.1) Android ROM. I like the Harmony but unless I can make it work as smooth as the remote bundled with the tuner, I know I won´t use it. Concerning Jason´s post describing how Flirc is coded, I know in LIRC you can configure the gap between button presses. Once configured you don´t have this sort of problem. That is, it is something which has already been done within LIRC; it can be adjusted to work reliably with quite different remotes. I´d love to help him getting it right, but the code within Flirc´s firmware is closed, so only he can do it.

At the moment Flirc uses a "best fit" approach for detected when the user holds down the button or presses it quickly. I embedded a response from Jason describing it some more: //forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/topic/220-better-support-for-multipleheld-down-keypresses/ Another thing to investigate would be using myharmony.com to program the remote as an MCE remote, something like: Manufacturer: Microsoft Device: MCE Keyboard Though the gap between packets sent by the harmony may be a setting set my logitech and Hauppauge decided to go for something different (even if they both emit the same packets). In more expensive harmony remotes inter key delay can be changed but I don't think it can in the cheaper ones (unfortunately). Sorry if I made you buy a harmony 300 unnecessarily, I have a harmony 300 and find it great (I use the panasonic profile), whilst the scrolling isn't absolutely perfect it's better than my TV and other devices I have so i'm happy with my flirc.

I have finally bought a Harmony 300 but I can't get it to work smoothly with Flirc. With my other remote from a Hauppauge DVB tuner card, I have to program twice each button, but afterwards it is silky smooth. With the Harmony 300, OTOH, using the SAMSUNG LN46C650L1F profile, since my TV is a Panasonic, there is too much delay between key presses. Reducing Flirc's interkey_delay helps a little bit but not enough. Using a Sony KDL-55HX855 profile the behavior is slightly different. The delay between key presses is shorter, smoother, but there is another noticeable delay before every key press. The result is that you notice a delay between the instant you press a button and the instant the action is executed on screen. Since the Hauppauge remote (which uses the RC5 protocol), after programming each key twice, is silky smooth, I tried using its profile on the Harmony. I used the IR receiver on the bottom of the Harmony to copy the IR codes of the Hauppauge remote. Then I configured Flirc with this new profile, also programming each key twice, but there's still a noticeable delay before each key press. I have also tried playing with Flirc's sensitivity and interkey_delay options but there was not improvement. I wonder if there is any way to get the same silky smooth response I get with the Hauppauge remote (with RC5 protocol), after programming twice each button, with the Harmony 300? Otherwise it will be another botched purchase.

Changed to use the Samsung profile (had been avoiding it as I have other Samsung stuff) and this seemed to fix up my double-pressing problems with the FLIRC and the Harmony One. I used the default key delay (which is 0ms, so nice and responsive) Thanks for the advice !

How odd, can you check to see if multiple buttons aren't mapped to the map function in the harmony software (and therefore the remote) Chris!

I followed your guide exactly and used the Panasonic profile, but I have more repeat key issues than I had on my generic MCE IR. Any tips on getting this working like yours? :). Btw, I'm also using a 650, and I dropped the 2 delay types for the Panasonic device to 0. Thanks..

I figured it out. When I initially programmed it I did it under the tv instead of programming it when I was in the activity.

Welcome to the forums, You should be able to program Flirc to recognise the buttons on your remote (programmed as a panosonic device) then it will work. Unless that wasn't what you were asking - if not can you try explaining it in a different way? Cheers Chris!

Im having some trouble getting things setup maybe you guys could help. I have a Harmony one. I added the Panasonic tv as suggested. Now when I go to my activity of watch movies I cant control XBMC but if I choose devices and choose the Panasonic it works. How do I get it to control when in the activity. Thanks for any help.

Thanks!

I'll admit that whilst I could read it RFT is really a Mac text editor thing (as far as i'm concerned) Here it is in PDF XBMC Keyboard FLIRC.pdf

The rtf doc have no data ?

Here's my setup with a Harmony 650. Nothing noticable after a few days: ... Tried to post in a nice format... didn't come out. How do I add an attachment here (want to add a table - RTF, doc, or xls)

See our knowledge base for help and information https://flirc.zendesk.com/

I'll go first :) Remote being used Harmony 300 Pros + Easy to set up + I'm able to control way more functions of XBMC with it. + Great signal reception Cons - Repeat rate isn't as smooth as possible, i.e. when a key is held down for an extended amount of time sometimes it will go too far. There is a request for this to be tweaked () Overall I think Flirc is great - very happy with my purchase. Way better than the other receivers I tried (including HP receiver for MCE remotes).

Glad to see the first Linux version of the Skip app become available for download! The app launches but does not appear to recognize the remote when it is plugged in via USB. Details are included in a separate thread <opening this thread in the Beta feedback section of the forum.>

Opened a thread for this USB detection issue in the Beta feedback section of the forum. https://forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/topic/11414-linux-v0980-skip-app-usb-plugin-unrecognized/

Quite depressing as I hit refresh every day. They took a bit to clear customs, left china, they are in or over Japan now?. No expected delivery time. Last time with the same shipping service, they got here in 4 days. I feel defeated every time I make an estimate. They are on their way, I have no idea if they'll get here before the end of the week, or next week. I don't know anything anymore. = ( I'm just waiting with everyone else now.

Letting everyone know that they were shipped yesterday, picked up, and there is movement on the tracking.

I’m going to fix this. I’ve reproduced it twice but I am working out a log that will diagnose it.

I absolutely love the Skip 1S. Building a new hardware remote is hard. Making an interface to that remote that is easy to use is really hard. I know, I've tried. Please take my observations with nothing but respect for the work you've done. General: I love that you can export your remote configuration to a JSON file. This is hugely powerful, beyond troubleshooting. Everything is right there in plain text glory. With access to the configuration I could Clone an activity. I exported the remote configuration, opened it up in VSCode, copied the A activity entry, updated the Activity ID to B, reimported, and it just worked. Change the color of the devices in the activities to match between activities. Create a repo for my remote configuration in github. Now, when I (inevitably) screw up my configuration, it's safely versioned. The developers have been amazingly responsive to forum users. It feels very much like when I was part of the JP-1 community. The remote is (mostly) well-designed, with a good selection of buttons without being overwhelming Software: You can't program macros to activity keys (turn on X, Y, and Z, and then switch to Watch TV activity). I asked about this on another post, but this is my biggest issue. When I sit down to watch TV, I don't want to press one button and then have to press another. I want it to turn on with a single button press and just be ready. The Power button seems to maintain some sort of state, but it doesn't always seem correct. Ideally, I could program a macro to the power button as well, as the only time I'd use it would be to power off everything. I can kind of do that, but it is a pain. The colors between activities don't match the devices, so activity A with my Yamaha receiver is Red, but on activity B it is Blue. I couldn't find a way to adjust the color in the app, but I discovered I could in the JSON. Each Activity gets its own device list, which is strange to me. I have one set of devices and I would only use the remote in that one location. Being able to add devices to the app independent of an activity would be more usable for me, then I could mix and match devices without having to re-add them. Can't see what device is currently on any activity (e.g. the name of the selected IR codes). I could in the JSON, but not in the app. If you go into the wizard on an existing activity and click one of the already added devices, it takes you to the "Do you want to set up a new device" screen. Am I replacing the device, adding a new one? I'm not sure. The last page in the Activity Wizard is "Your Activity Summary", which asks "Does everything looks okay?"[sic]. What am I supposed to do on this page? It looks like I should be able to configure the power button options, but I can't change anything. There should be a way to search the button panel instead of having to scroll, hoping you find what you are looking for. If you are in the button panel and open a button on the remote, selecting another device in that activity will close the button. So if I'm setting up a multi-device macro on a button, I have to open the button each time I switch devices. A long press option would be nice, at least on the activity buttons. This would allow the remote to handle up to 6 devices. I wish there was a way to upload the JSON directly to the remote without having to import into the app first. I'd also like to be able to directly sync with git any changes I made. One can dream. Hardware: The activity buttons on the remote look like they have little stickers on them instead of printing The color button icon on the remote is off center. The remote is too damn slick in my hands. Some texture can make for a better user experience. The media buttons are spread apart. The STOP and RECORD buttons are at the bottom of the remote, but the FF, REW, PLAY are at the top. Like phones, thumb-ability is important in a remote. Being able to hold the remote comfortably in one hand is important. Being able to rest the remote in your hand in a braced position (bottom corner in the palm of the hand) makes it easier to use. The color wheel is just outside my (long) thumb rang. I can comfortably reach the bottom part of it, but the rest is outside my reach unless I shift the remote down. I can adjust my grip, but moving the wheel down would be the more usable solution for most people.

I'm not disappointed. I know this is still a product in development and there will be issues. The developers have been quite forward with their development efforts, so I'm willing to give them the time they need to get to a release state. Right now it's still beta level. Having a global sleep command would be nice though. Some buttons have a delay, but not all of them.

If you've got a remote already, you signed up to be a beta tester of the hardware and software. If you signed up to be a beta tester, thinking it wouldn't come with associated issues, you probably misinterpreted what a beta entails because the word is basically just used interchangeably with "early-access" nowadays.

1) Had the Flirc software loaded on my Windows 8.1 machine and it worked fine, upgraded to Windows 10 and it STILL works. 2) Did NOT have Flirc program loaded on another Windows 8.1 machine, upgraded to Windows 10, installed Flirc program and it will NOT work. When I check the device manager it says that there is a driver problem with the Flirc device. If I start the Flirc program it does not show the device as connected and when I exit it tells me that the program is not working properly and forces a program shut down. Anyone else having this problem or know how to correct the driver problem? Can I obtain the Flirc drives so I can point Windows 10 to them? Thanks in advance

No. But you can imagine how hard it's been with the virus. Everyone is at home. My supply chain is constrained, and I have to do everything myself.

Is there a way to have a profile created that assigns Android Keycodes to remote buttons? I am using an Inteset remote and want to use the android keycodes in the link below to map each button. This will be for full funtionality on a Nvidia Shield TV. https://elementalx.org/button-mapper/android-key-codes/

This is probably unsupported in any way by Jason so please don't report bugs in other threads when using this solution. If you have any problems with this setup it is better to post them here and I'll try to help if I have time to do so. Hi, This how-to is for users who want to build more advanced control schemes using their Flirc devices. It is mainly directed to Windows users because there is no way in Windows to capture input from a single keyboard, but can be done in Linux. But it should be also applicable in other OS-es when used with correct software. The problem is that not everything can be done just by defining a single key combinations. There are applications like AutoHotKey (AHK) or EventGhost (EG) that can capture specific key combinations but there is a problem. Having many buttons on the mapped remote it is sometimes hard to find key combinations that are not used as OS or other apps shortcuts already. By capturing the specific key combination in AHK or EG user basically blocks this combination even on a normal keyboard connected to the PC (as there is no way in Windows to capture only input from one specific keyboard). Here comes HID standard for the rescue. HID keyboards are just one of the many usages of this standard. Because of that the HID standard has been split into multiple usage tables. Standard keys on keyboards use table 7 and in Windows codes from this table are immediately captured by HID keyboard filter driver and are converted into key presses. On the other hand keys like multimedia keys are defined in usage table 12. Codes from this table are not captured by the Windows. Only a few of them are natively supported (like volume, mute, play, pause etc). Flirc GUI and CLI util provide the ability to map only a few of the keys from table 12. Those keys when mapped are not recognized by AHK or EG when used with keyboard input plugins. This gave me an idea to do some experiments. I needed to find out how these multimedia keys are stored in the Flirc which can be checked by inspecting saved config file. After that I checked if I can assign any HID code from the table 12 and I was successful. I've found out that there is a key code which acts as a marker for Flirc to send usage 12 instead o 7. When this marker is found then the actual HID key ID is stored as a modifier. It is possible to use flirc_util to map almost any code from table 12: flirc_util.exe record_api 176 102 where 176 is decimal value of key ID (Play key in this case) and 102 is a marker that tells Flirc that this is key from table 12. Table 12 has more than 256 keys defined but unfortunately Flirc can only hold a single byte value so there is still a restriction in the number of keys. There are also holes in the list of keys in this table which I've used in my own config so I don't have any conflicts with other hardware and software. These are the usable values: 4-31, 34-47, 55-63, 73-95, 103-127, 159, 165-175. There are probably more but I've stopped looking other codes that are not mentioned by the standard. I think that other keys that are in the standard are also usable. Most of them are not natively supported by the Windows but I used these ranges in my case to be on the safe side. The way to record these keys is to change the first value to one in these ranges and record a button to them incrementally. In my setup I've used EventGhost to capture HID events and map them to things I want them to do. It provides some nice features like programmable on screen menus and many plugins for specific apps like XBMC (it uses XBMC RPC API). To capture events from HID device a Generic HID plugin must be used. Unfortunately there is a small problem with this plugin and it sometimes sends multiple HID events on single button press (this is not the same problem as with repeated keys). I have a modifier Generic HID plugin that works very well with Flirc in this mode of operation. I can share it if there is a demand for it. I can also extend the how-to to some basic EG configuration. I haven't used AHK but I know that there is also a way to capture HID events in it and use them to control things. All the numbers I'm referring to are taken from this document http://www.freebsddiary.org/APC/usb_hid_usages.php

100% confirmed. I just got my own copy of windows 10 yesterday and I will work on solving this over the weekend. I'm very sorry for the inconvenience. The biggest lesson for me, is that I need to start signing up for developer access for windows and mac. Thanks so much, hang in there. I believe you can pair it on another machine and use it in windows 10 just fine, can you confirm? Very Sincerely, Jason

Hi, I'm trying to find some information on how to set up apple remote style long press handling. For example if I press "up" once on remote then it means Up, but if I hold "up" on remote it means Volume up. To be honest I'm getting frustrated from your forum based documentation. I've read through many forum threads and some blog posts but in the end I usually find out that those threads are outdated. My current impression now is that at first long press was supported by custom beta firmwares which are now outdated (and no longer available) by official beta release of gui which contains latest firmware. If this idea is correct (I'm not even sure about it) it means current gui should record long press from apple remote out of the box, by automaticaly uploading new firmware first. However it doesn't work for me. When I tried to solve it, I noticed a button for forcing firmware update which told me if I want to replace current 1.0 by new 2.0. Although I didn't understand why it didn't updated the firmware automaticaly, I agreed so I think I now have the latest firmware, but that doesn't help. Current gui behavior is that the key is recorded imadiately after I press anything on a remote. I noticed another setting in advanced gui menu - Inter-key delay. Does it somehow relate to long presses? Because I've read some threads that mentioned that long press could be mistaken with fast consecutive presses which is pretty bad because I don't want my walking through some list being mistaken for volume up (using the example I've given in the begining). So although I know what I want I don't even know how this feature works or how it's supposed to work. After hours spent reading a forum threads I give up. Is there any up to date info about how to set up long press detection and how does it actually work? Can somebody explain this topic to me?

I just want to express my positive feedback on the Flirc SE (Streacom Edition), wow it just works! After reading the posts of Jason (his follow up in cases there are bugs in a release) I was very confident about the product and bought it this weekend. After adding my Xbox one remote I am now a very happy user / customer. So thanks and keep up the good work! Regards, Mark

This was the easiest to use out of the box experience of any product I have ever purchased. I opened it and plugged it into my Windows 8.1 system. Went to the web site, downloaded and ran the software. When it finished installing, I browsed through the various controllers, choose the Windows Media Center, selected several buttons and pressed the same button on my remote. After configuring about 8 different buttons, I unplugged it from my system and plugged it into my new RASPLEX box and booted. As soon as the RASPLEX came up to the main screen the remote was working. Start to finish, less than 10 minutes. I wish all products worked this well straight out of the box. Can't wait to see what you guys come up with next. Have already shown this to about 8 of my friends and 2 are ordering theirs today. Will keep an eye on your website for new products. Thanks, Keith P.S. I tried it today just for the heck of it on my Windows 8 system and was able to control Windows Media Center, Plex App, and the Metro interface with the same remote I was using for my TV. What a cool product!

Hello to every one, this "how to" guide is writen for people who are new both to flirc and XBMC, and to all who want to personalize their flirc/xbmc expirince. I would like to thank Jason for flirc an all of his hard work on it, to jhsrennie for his Keymapedit and to Chris! for his help with this guide. Keep up the good work guys! I am just an end user like you guys - so I don't know how all of this things work, but i know they work - that is important. INTRO XBMC can be personalized to the smallest detail - keyboard also. You can program flirc as minimal remote, xbmc remote or keyboard - I use the latter (keyboard) as it will give you most flexibility and you can "unlock secret xbmc treasures" this way. On XBMC wiki you will find "full list" of built in keyboard controls for xbmc. ABOUT ADDITIONAL FUNCTIONS IN XBMC I use uni remote, like many remotes (for me) it has a design flaw, media contol keys are all the way down, so you need to move your hand when moving from navigation keys to ff/rev and pause (when you are watching your favorite TVshow and you want to ff intro). I have my remote setup that way that when in full screen video my left/right navigation keys are used as ff/rev keys, my up/down keys are used for direct subtitle +/- offset and OK button is used for pause. My power button will put XBMC to sleep - without need to go through power menu and so on. For me this is the ultimate - because there are so many thing that you can do by just pressing one button on your keyboard, the beauty of this combination is that you can assign any key on your remote to any key on your keyboard. For example: you can send update library command when in main menu - if you have recently added video enabled in your skin, you can go directly to latest movie/tvshow episode from recently added menu, without need to search them in library - if you have lots of movies or tv shows with many seasons you know this is great. You can go directly to video/music/settings window and so on One of my favorites is running scripts with key press - I only use it to run "Cinema expirience" normally you have to go to movie info and select CE "button" to run it, if you have lets say F2 key assigned to run script you can run it directly from your library https://lh5.googleus...xcpoc_EfaKlu3sQ HOW TO - IN A FEW EASY STEPS First locate your "\XBMC\userdata\keymaps\" folder - its position will depend on OS you are running your XBMC on, the folder will be empty - latter on will put keyboard.xml there IMPORTANT: all keys that you put in this file will override default behaviour of your keyboard keys, so be careful what key you chose (use link to wiki to chose keys that have no function assigned in XBMC). 1. METHOD OF CHOICE There are two ways of doing this that I know of: 1. manually make kayboard.xml - you will need to know functions of xbmc + html - PLS DO NOT ASK ME ABOUT THIS METHOD - haven't got a clue 2. Use KeyMapEdit - it is only for Windows though - you Linux guys can run some vitual machine to set it up or something - maybe there is a linux version i don't know 2. USING KEYMAPEDIT Using this little program is pretty easy - apart from the fact that there are so many functions You have to things that need your attencion: a) append section B) append key a) append section - will not add commands but make a "sub section" so you can assign same key to diferent function when in diferent menu/window of XBMC -like my full screen video left key is rew in full screen video, but if i call OSD it is again left. B) append key is where you actually assign letters to function. You will need to explore and try some thingS on your own, there are so many functions that there is no point for me to try explain all of them. It is simple - chose key on your keyboard - chose what you want it to do NOTE: some buttons (in my experience) will not work well when you try to assign double functions to them so it my be needed to change some default buttons to max out your setup, for example I have assigned leter "J" to be my select buton - if I leave "enter" it will not work properly for pause in full screen video. 3.USING YOUR NEW SETTINGS Save your config file as keyboard.xml and put it in \XBMC\userdata\keymaps\. NOTE: you need to restart your xbmc to pick up your keyboard.xml as it will only serch for this file and load it on start. You can add /delete keys at will, no need to make new file every time. TIP: Make your self shortcut to your \XBMC\userdata\keymaps\ and put it in documents map as Keymapedit will not remeber path to file when restarted - so you will be able to navigate to keyboard.xml easily. If you have any questions please be free to ask them, we will try to help you in any way we can.

Hi all- I'm trying to record just the Windows button- just the basic press of the Windows key (between Ctrl+Alt)... It doesn't seem to be listed in the command line record options and the GUI seems to only want me to be able to use it for shortcuts like Windows+R, etc... What am I missing?

Same problems here. Was working fine until yesterday evening. I was working on programming a Harmony then adding buttons to flirc, when it started disconnecting at every key press. It will say transfer error and immediately crash the gui. When I do get it to stay open, I can't erase a particular button. Have tried downgrading, upgrading, clearing config, loading config, can't seem to get it to work like it did for the past week. All of us with this same problem can't be experiencing a bad usb port, that would be too much of a coincidence. Maybe it's a government conspiracy. Are there certing commands using the flirc_util to completely clear and start over? How do I know if I'm using the correct gui with the correct firmware? I have no idea. I loaded the latest rc.4 so my gui says version 1.0 and firmware says 255.12 What has happened to our flircs? Has the internal hardware fried? Did this on a win7 laptop and my win7 htpc, same connecting/disconnecting and transfer errors.

I bet it's a physical block. You might be able to get around it if you know how to crimp a network cable. Make sure you have an RJ-11 end for your network cable to replace Unplug your network cable cut the end off unwind the "twisted pairs" Find the one with a white stripe Peel it back, away from the others Place all of the other cables back into the new RJ-11 prong Crimp that end down Plug it back in White = RCA video. Removing that connection will allow you to circumvent any firewall setting saved in your NIC chipset that is related to video. Since your monitor and the PC are still able to communicate, your video will display and, of course, audio will not have been affected because your sound card has no firewall.

If you are familiar with running Command Line, "fdisk /mbr" should have nearly the same effect.

Hi All, Thought i'd let you know that Jason is concerned about the "sticky key" effect sometimes observed (e.g. when a key on the remote is pressed multiple times in quick succession resulting in a lot more scrolling than anticipated). This is due to the way Flirc currently implements how it receives a signal, Jason explains it beautifully below: As you can see there are significant variables in there: As you can imagine and appreciate it will take a lot of Jason's work and (personal free) time, so your patience is appreciated - rest assured it's on his list, at the earliest after wake is perfected. Pleasant regards Chris