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splice last won the day on April 3 2023

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  1. I had a similar issue and was very confused by it. Turns out the firmware version on the remote was outdated and a firmware update fixed this kind of behaviour right up. Firmware updates are neither automatic nor was I warned that my remote was on outdated firmware. Do have a look at what firmware version you're at and what the current firmware is, you may end up being pleasantly surprised after a manual update.
  2. Some further info: yesterday I powered on activity A and remembered I wanted to modify the remote config, so less than 30 seconds after powering on I went to power it off by pressing power again. In that short span, it forgot the power state and tried to power on again. It will only power off activity A if I press the power button and then immediately after (no more than a few seconds) press it again so it queues a power down command after the power on. Otherwise, it forgets it's powered on and just tries to power on again. I can swear that activity B didn't behave the same because I did successfully power down without pressing the button twice a few times. However, there's maybe some kind of idle timeout involved too because I've also had it completely forget that I am in activity B and when I went to power down it just reverted to activity A and tried to power it up instead. It's very confusing what's going on with power states. I'd appreciate some kind of feedback about it. I can run tests for you or something but I think this is a big bug (or more than one) that really needs to get addressed.
  3. Apologies, I somehow missed the reply. I am using Windows 10 at the moment, although the FLIRC USB is currently connected to an android box (NVidia Shield) if that makes it more convenient somehow. Just for reference, this is about capturing codes from my current remotes using FLIRC USB or exporting them from Harmony.
  4. You can find an exported list of supported devices here: Note that you may not find your exact model and there'll be different "groups" of devices under specific manufacturers and I don't think there's a way to figure out which your device officially falls under, you just need to test everything and hope you find one that works for you. If you can't find anything I imagine you can reach out to the devs and figure out a way to get your device added although they should be adding learning IR codes sometime in the future which could allow you to capture your own remote and use that.
  5. Guess I'll have to do the same for now. I was expecting to do something similar when the end up implementing macros for activity buttons. While you may not prefer the power button retaining states, it certainly is supposed to be that way right now and it certainly fails completely at it for me. No, I don't expect the remote to understand state changes that it does not initiate, that's silly. Harmony never did that either but at least it was able to remember the state of every device in all of its activities and was smart enough to switch them on and off depending on activity switches and using the power button to power off everything. In that model the power button was only for shutting things down too so the power button itself didn't need to remember states but it definitely did need to for activity switches, remembering power states for devices is essential for smart, seamless activity switches if they don't all use exactly the same devices. I was hoping for some troubleshooting questions from the devs to help them figure out what's wrong though. Hopefully they'll get around to it.
  6. Good to know, I'll keep an eye out for a future update on it. Still using it for now, just mildly annoying.
  7. I've seen something similar and it looks like it may be tied to how powerful the IR transmitter is (or rather its lack of power). If I go sit in front of my flirc USB receiver the remote seems to respond normally and quickly. A few feet back and it's once again sporadic. Harmony has, of course, absolutely no problem with being 6 feet from the IR receiver. I even bought a 90 degree USB adapter to raise the IR receiver above my Nvidia shield for better reception but no joy, remote still has those weird skips as if it sometimes can't reach the IR receiver. So far it seems this remote is struggling with the basics.
  8. I configured the power on/off macros with "TV Power On" instead of toggle for that specific reason, so that even if the remote fell out of sync with the state of the devices it shouldn't screw it up by powering off something I'm trying to power on. Unfortunately, the remote seems to have a terrible memory for states. Powering on an activity works fine but then if I try to power off the same activity an hour later (without switching activities at all), it still tries to power on instead of powering off. I have to press the power button a second time to get the power off sequence. I have no idea why the remote forgets it powered on the activity so quickly and I'm really disappointed in that.
  9. I am trying to get used to how this remote works but this one has me stumped. I have one activity configured to watch TV. The Power On macro powers on my amp and TV and switches the inputs to the correct ones. The Power Off sequence powers off the amp and TV. Pretty much all of the time I try to power off the activity it powers it on instead. I'll power on normally, watch an hour or two, then press the power button on the remote to shut off everything. Instead, it tries powering on everything again and switches the inputs again, after which I have to press the button a second time for it to actually power off. What is the logic behind how the power button works? I haven't even switched activities. I powered on everything to start with and it did that properly. Why does the remote apparently forget that power on was the last command the power button sent and does not power off the activity the next time I press the power button? I would think this is one of the very basic things the remote should be able to do. Remembering the state of the one activity I powered on and knowing to power off when I press the button an hour later should be very straightforward, so why doesn't it do that properly?
  10. I can confirm that with this config, the "HDMI OUT MAIN" mapping works with my device. Just FYI the other two (HDMI OUT SUB, HDMI OUT BOTH) were already present in the "TX/DTR/DHC Series Main Zone All Models" definition, only MAIN was missing.
  11. If I am equipped with a Harmony IR remote, a FLIRC USB IR receiver and a Skip 1s, is there any way for me to either export pronto codes from harmony or its software, or use the FLIRC IR receiver to capture and give me the pronto codes for a button press?
  12. The "TX/DTR/DHC Series Main Zone All Models" definition has "HDMI OUT BOTH", "HDMI OUT SUB" but "HDMI OUT MAIN" seems to be missing entirely. Unfortunate. Also, I would very much like both a scrollbar and search field for the list of buttons. It's a bit grating to have to use the mousewheel to browse through long lists and I'm not sure if I'm missing "HDMI OUT MAIN" because it's worded differently.
  13. I just downloaded the CSV of supported devices to take a look and apparently the device is listed as "TX/DTR/DHC Series Main Zone All Models" under Onkyo/Integra instead of just Onkyo. Not sure how I was supposed to know that (I have no idea what Integra is and don't recall seeing that brand name anywhere when buying/setting up my receiver) but now that I found the (presumably) correct profile the buttons are available. I'll start testing soon-ish.
  14. Yes? I listed exactly what device I am trying to control, I listed the device mapping I found and am trying to use, and I listed the buttons I am finding no mapping for when using that device definition. I am not sure what part was unclear, but yes, buttons are missing, the buttons I listed and said I can find no mapping for.
  15. The Onkyo TX-NR7100 is the specific device I immediately saw was missing buttons. There is no specific mapping for this device, only the generic Onkyo profiles (A series, GXW Series, HTR Series Main Zone and HTR Series Zone 2, none of which really match my device). I use the HTR Series Main Zone mapping. There is no mapping for "HDMI Out Main", "HDMI Out Sub", "Input StrmBox", "Input CBL/SAT", "Input Bluetooth", "Power On", "Power Off" (only has power toggle). I was hoping to use the Power On/Off instead of toggle because of how I am used to the Harmony remote (switching activities intelligently manages power status and keeps necessary devices powered on and powers off unnecessary ones) but now that I found out activity buttons apparently do nothing to trigger power on/off and just change the remote personality I imagine that's a non-starter anyway. The inputs and HDMI out settings are pretty essential for me though. I imagine there's more missing functionality but I'm not going to start testing things out until I at least get some minimum functionality and the missing buttons means it's stored for now.
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