Jump to content
Flirc Forums

jason

Administrators
  • Posts

    3,723
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    228

Posts posted by jason

  1. This extender doesn't have any electronics for sure. I had at least two of those in the past and I've disassembled one of them to use the cable and the socket for my own needs.

     

    Possible issue here is that the cables used by the Logitech in these extenders are really thin and prone to interference if not properly shielded. Is your PC grounded properly? The ground connection is connected to the shield of the USB port and connects to the cable shielding. If not grounded properly and thin enough the cable will act as an antenna catching different RF signals. Maybe that interference is what wakes up your PC.

     

    I think you're definitely right, as always.

  2. Problem solved! I was plugging in the flirc to an old USB extender from a wireless Logitech keyboard so that I could place the d ice ice directly under the TV. Turns out that this extender was keeping what was preventing my PC from sleeping!

    I plugged the flirc into a USB extender cable and it now sleeps and wakes perfectly!

    Thank you all for your help! Think I might get another flirc now for my Raspberry Pi!

     

    Thanks so much for following up. I really appreciate it and am certainly surprised by the solution. Can I get a little bit more information bout the hardware that was preventing it from sleeping from logitech? Do you have a link?

    Thanks again.

    • Like 1
  3. Okay, how about this: http://cl.ly/2j3g3V2D0a0q

     

    I found some duplicates, play and pause. Please re-record that.

    I also found the wake key, which is strange, as that's now the only button that should be able to wake your machine. I deleted that, just in case it was an accident. Re-record it if it wasn't. I've also disabled built in profiles, in case noise was matching those signals.

     

    Give that a shot and let me know if it works. If it doesn't, try going to advanced, and enabling the noise filter.

     

  4. Yeah, I got mine and it's not working. It looks like a standard 38khz frequency, but I'm going to say the wavelength of the light is funny. It's just not working and it's going to take me time to figure out why. Sorry, guys, not something I'm going to be able to get too right away, I have a ton on my plate. 

  5. The first one was V1.0 or something. GUI was good and firmware was good till I stuffed it up by upgrading the firmware, but eventually got it working mostly. Second one was V2 or something. Shit from the start. Had to program it through DOS because it wouldn't work on the GUI. Would've of been good but accidentally programmed 3 buttons wrong and couldn't for the life of me erase it on DOS or on the GUI, but lived with it. When the latest version came out I hoped all the small issues would be fixed. I upgraded 1 of them, had a few dramas programing it but eventually got it mint(still had to use AutoHotkey though for skip back and fast foward). Saved the config file and used it to upgrade the 2nd flirc. But now I'm worse off because they are now both affected and I have to get off my ass and skip the ad with the mouse by the TV.

    Recently built a Media Center for a friend and opted for a Dell RC6 Media Center remote and IR receiver in stead of a flirc. Something that I may have to do on my own system.

    I'm really sorry you are having trouble. But there is no reason for name calling. I do this on my own, and to fundraise for cancer research. Without anything constructive, I can't fix the problem. 

    If you could please help by describing the problem a bit more, I can try to address it. Or better yet, we can connect on skype and go back and forth with questions. But please give me the opportunity to try to help. I understand you are frustrated. I'm sorry about that.

  6. I have 2 flircs. The first one went well straight off the bat. The second has been shit. Then I accidentally upgraded the firmware on the first one, now I have two that are shit. Can't you just make a program that reads an editable xml file or something? It really is starting to piss me off now!!

     

    The two flircs are running the latest firmware which I thought would've been sorted by now but obviously isn't.

     

    The flircs lose their settings!! I am running a windows 7 32bit media center as a HTPC. All works then I lose a button. Then the whole lot goes. Without the computer even doing a reboot or anything. Reinstalling the same firmware then clearing the setting then reloading the settings gets it going, but with the wrong commands. I know I saved the correct settings, but it's either reloading it wrong or it didn't save it correctly to begin with.

    Pause and play were two seperate commands working fine but now play is on the record button and the play button is control+alt+shift+t(using flirc utilities-key events to find that out).

    The stop button stopped working, key events came up with nothing even though the flirc gui said the stop button was stop and that i could redo it. I erased the stop button, then reprogrammed it now keyevents comes up with ctrl+alt+shift+s. I erased it again and using the key board menu re-recorded it as ctrl+shift+s, but the key events is saying it's recorded as ctrl+shift+alt+s again. What gives!! I've tried different remotes, did a reinstall of the operating system(not purposely for the flirc). Computer restarts as well. After all these years I thought you'd have this sorted by now.

    I can't even up load my configuration file because it says "No file was selected for upload" even though it was.

    I know what the problem is. I've had a really hard time these past few weeks. I'm going to release an update over the weekend that allows people to change this setting before I figure out how to do it on the fly. Hang in there and watch the beta forums. I'm sorry for your frustration. What firmware were you at previously?

  7. I'm fairly certain I am also getting this problem, and it's continued to be a problem in both Linux (mint 17.1) and windows (8.1) for me using Harmony 650. I've tried both the Samsung/Panasonic TV profile method and also the special Flirc profile on the Harmony and neither has solved this problem. My center was running linux at first, and I was getting the problem no matter what I did, so I just set flirc aside for the time being. After a while the machine came to run windows 8.1, and the exact same problem persists with flirc there as well. For some reason the flirc will start out working just fine, then at some point it just begins "cutting out" (which I've actually come to find is endlessly stuck keypresses), then eventually only send "phantom"/repeated keypresses over and over even if I restart, even if I re-plugin Flirc. I've tried using USB 2.0 hubs, and I've tried ensuring that the drivers pick up flirc on the media center - It gets the problem when I try to record, that it will instantly register some random key and I can't even program it anymore. I've tried every inter-key delay in the list and none solve it. I am using Firmware 3.6. It's not just in Kodi where it misbehaves, of course, but in the OS itself as well (constantly pressing the key and typing whatever that happens to be in any dialog or box that comes up).

     

    After reading a few threads about "lamps" and "light interference" (...) I've even tried taping boxes over it in a very silly attempt to get it to be nice and happy in its own dark little box-world, but to no avail. So.. I'm really not sure what to do, and sadly rearranging my room to have no other electronic in it except the PC and flirc is not exactly feasible. Any suggestions?...

    Is it always the same key it's spamming? Or is it random?

  8. My own fault actually- was running V1.3.6 of the GUI which wasn't playing nice with the v3.7 on the FLIRC. Updated to V1.3.7 of the gui and all now working as it should. I musn't have dropped the Flirc 1.3.7 GUI into the Applications folder the last time I ran it to update the firmware so was still running V1.3.6...

    Glad you got it working.

  9. While the sensitivity is pretty high, the idea is you are sitting at your computer while doing the recording and right next to the device. So you bounce it off the wall and get a much more realistic signal. Then when you sit on the couch, you are much farther away, and therefore can point it directly at the direction of the device.

    With the bouncing off the wall for recording method, do you have better luck with it working in notepad, etc?

  10. Eric - 

    Publicly saying I'm sorry. I responded to your email and my suggestion was making sure both devices are not set to use libusbk. Try removing the driver for both, rebooting and seeing what drivers get loaded for each. 

    Thanks Eric for the patience, and again, I'm sorry for the trouble.

     

    Sincerely,

    Jason

  11. The issue I reported was with firmware 3.6.

     

    I just tried 3.7-rc.1 and it appears to have solved all of my issues (the one I reported here, plus extraneous +U00 keys being added to my combos at random) with Sequence Modifiers enabled.

    Hooo Rah!

     

    Awesome. Thanks for letting me know. I had a funny feeling I fixed this. 

  12. I understand, it gets a bit complicated. I also have distributors that I don't want to directly compete with and their enabled and encouraged to use amazon.

    Where are you from in particular? Do you mean you want to go to amazon.com and order an international order, or amazon.co.uk etc?

×
×
  • Create New...