jason
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Posts posted by jason
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New Wizard
- Improved - Wizard Add New Device
To Do
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Fix - Link in Wizard Device List should jump to record editing if it's a recorded device11-20-24 -
Manufacturer List not in alphabetical order11-19-24 -
Button List not in alphabetical order11-19-24 -
Manufacturer List Missing Recorded Devices Unless Manually Searching11-20-24 -
Search Boxes should support fuzzy searching11-27-24 -
UX - Improve search box sizes to match design11-27-24 -
UX - Improve compact mode to match design12-06-24 -
Search Box designs are pixels off11-27-24 -
Some icons do not match design11-27-24 -
Recording a new remote link should always be shown, not just went remote is connected11-27-24 -
Add 'Edit' Link if selected device was previously recorded12-20-24 -
Don't reset settings when going back in the wizard12-20-24 -
Recording Devices can't be tested in wizard11-19-24 -
Second activity should include shortcuts for previous devices12-06-24 -
Linux Wizard Broken11-21-24
New Wizard
No more are the terrible drop down search bars. We have all new selections with a better search. Also gone is the useless 'test' which only does the power button. Because of the limitation of our licensed database and how datasets are grouped, it would be much more beneficial to test any of the buttons in the selected device. So now you can!
Downloads
Mac Download
Windows Download
Linux Download** EDIT **
About ready to release this, some more bugs and stability to solve, but would appreciate any and all feedback.
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This version has now transitioned to the release candidate found here:
Please write any follow-ups in this post.
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Published
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Thank you so much for finding that, we are publishing a fix to the RC candidate within the next hour.
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See note at top->
UPDATE [November 14th 2014]
This has been frequently updated, too many updates and bug fixes to note. This release is still valid, and can be used to play with the new wizard, it will continue to be updated, but merged soon. Which means updates will stop and a new RC will be released. We were far from ready as I have found a lot of issues. For the time being, we have removed the Release Candidate tag. Feel free to play with it, it's stable.
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What's New
- Fixed - Abstracted Network Interface and Simulator
- Fixed - Bugs and Stability
- Firmware - Supporting Toggling of Play/Pause and Mute
New Toggle
Here is how this one works. If the device you mapped has a the toggle for record or play/pause, we use that by default and these buttons remain singular. However, if there is no toggle present but a distinct on/off, we use the on/off and enable the toggle for you.
If it supports toggle, and on/off, we still use the toggle.
If you accidentally delete one side, this will cause the remote to misbehave, you'll get a 'Red' Led error on the side it's missing. So we prevent this behavior. If you remove one side, this is considered invalid, and we assign the singular key to both states for the remote. -
On 11/9/2024 at 9:30 PM, Deepcage said:
im not entirely satisfied with this purchase, but ill give it some more time. maybe it will grow on me. Thank you for taking the time trying to solve my grumpy problems.
No worries, I know it can be frustrating and my documentation is not great. I am almost done revamping this so it's released with new versions. Please do keep me posted and let me know if you have any feedback or questions. I'm happy to hop on a call if it makes things easier.
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I bought a remote, I'll take a look when it comes. Send that config when you have a chance.
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Yeah, can you also save and post your skip config?
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19 minutes ago, AndrewCowley said:
Jason thanks for the quick reply.
You should definitely prioritise smart activity switching over making it easier to learn IR commands. Once you get used to the learning it’s fine. It’s just very unintuitive.
Do you have long key presses in the pipeline?Yes, I hear you, I'm just naked without my simulator. But I have started initial planning.
As I think about how to handle device states in smart activity switching... I think a good compromise for forcing a specific action like 'power up' or 'power down' of an activity would be to do this via long press. So yes, in that regards, but not as feature for each button...yet.
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2 minutes ago, AndrewCowley said:
My thoughts on this remote.
Feels great in your hands. Button placement is perfect. The buttons have a nice feel; not too clicky but also not too mushy. All in all, it feels like a quality product.
The software is ordinary. Definitely takes time to get used to it.
I have only a few devices so can’t speak much about the IR database and its depth and accuracy. I found all my devices in there. Same as a Harmony remote if you can’t find an exact match you should be able to find another device from the same manufacturer that works.
It does have a learning function that works well. Albeit to learn commands you have to add a phantom device into your activity and learn the commands into this device. You cannot learn commands into a supported device that you chose from the device list. When creating each activity I added a phantom device into the activity to make future learning easy. I’m making a point of this because adding a device into an existing activity is possible but doing so overrides all the buttons you have customised; all the buttons get returned to the default. One of the many annoyances of the software.
Configuring the buttons is fairly easy. You drag and drop commands onto the buttons. It would be a lot better if it supported long key press and double click commands.
In use it works fine. Except there is no power on/off management when switching between activities. This will be game over for some people. It is silly that the A, B and C activity buttons can’t have commands assigned to them. You could work around the power on/off issue if they could.
The IR strength seems pretty good. It is perhaps a touch slower than each factory remote I have. You don’t really notice this though.
All in all I’m happy. It’s really close to being excellent.
Would love to hear what’s coming next. Don’t see much on this forum for the past few months.
Thanks for the great feedback, smarter activity switching is coming in beta release very shortly. We are trying to fix all the issues with the new beta candidate with an improved wizard experience.
I understand regarding the 'record' into an existing device. I've given a lot of thought about this. We will do something to make this easier. But I prioritize what we're working on based on feedback.
Again, I'll have a release candidate with smarter activity switching soon, I need my simulator working again with the GUI and am waiting to get this fixed while we address other bigger bugs.
Thanks again. -
On 11/10/2024 at 5:03 PM, mattmoore5553 said:
I have the flirc and looking to see if this will work on mac 10.4 ? I know it is an older mac but need this to work . Is there anything I can do ? I see the software download on the site is for mac 10.10 ? I am trying to get an old remote to work - keyspan rem17b.
https://www.iospirit.com/products/remotebuddy/hardware/keyspan-ir-remote/
I see on the site that it lists flirc usb and able to work with it. I can not get any other IR anymore.
I'm unfortunately not holding on a machine that I can test it on. Flirc USB should work, Skip wont without a bunch of work...
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Can you send a pic of the remote that it came with that works? Could be something else. Modulation frequency or timing.
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Yes, you can do what you need, but please read my explanation above of how flirc usb works.
I'm really sorry, I've re-read everything, I still do not see where you were explaining that you wanted to use the skip and flirc together to control media on the computer in a browser. Only that it wasn't working with the computer. But without context, I only understood that to be you could not set it up.
The remote is a universal remote, it's meant to control anything IR.
Flirc USB emulates keyboards and HID (human interface devices). You HAVE to pair it for it to work. By itself, without any setup, it's not going to do anything. It's going to receive an IR code from the remote, and do nothing. You need to use my pairing software to configure it to your liking. You are not using the correct app.
SkipApp loads profiles on the remote control. When random things were happening like 'print screen', it's because these are pre-loaded on Flirc USB so you don't have to pair them. However, as you mentioned, they are not going to function correctly. For example, a key that might do something within PLEX, does print screen in windows.
Download the flirc usb software. You can record remote control keys as keyboard keys. If you know what pauses the movie, like spacebar, pair the button on the remote with spacebar.
Check out controllers->media keys. Here are global hid keys which should work for various apps on windows. The specific keyboard keys are dependent on what you are using on your computer. No keyboard or hid device will be able to control the browser window while not in focus that I know about. VLC would/should work.
If you want to have more control, you can use eventghost. But that's out of my knowledge. I see a lot of users and blog posting about it and flirc.
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I have no idea what you are trying to achieve. Sounds like you are trying to use the Skip remote with Flirc USB? But not sure how and what you are expecting. Let me try and explain this a bit.
Flirc USB emulates a HID device and or a USB keyboard.
If you want to use flirc - usb on a FireTV, I have all the HID codes on the USB device. I also have custom IR codes that will not interfere with any device in your living room specifically for Flirc. Loading this profile onto skip will allow you to use your skip remote with Flirc USB. Skip sends out custom IR codes, and in turn, the FLIRC USB receives these codes and sends out the necessary HID codes to the FIRE TV for you. Automatically, nothing else should be required for flirc.
If you are trying to use the remote and flirc usb on your computer, you can do this as well. Say, you are using XBMC/Kodi, no problem. Just select the SKIP / Kodi profile in the skipapp, and launch KODI on your computer. The correct Keyboard keys will be sent wihen you press the correct buttons on the remote, assuming flirc usb is plugged in.If you want to control VLC, that's no problem as well. Just load an arbitrary IR device into skip that is not in the same room. Launch the flirc usb app, and then pair the keyboard keys yourself. The flirc usb app will allow you to dynamically pair remote control keys with any arbitrary keyboard or HID key.
Here is where you can get the flirc usb software: https://flirc.tv/products/flirc-usb-receiver?variant=43513067569384#spec2
I hope that helps clarify how these can be used together. Any information an what these are plugged into and how you intend to use them would be great, if I didn't help with the above.
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57 minutes ago, Deepcage said:
So... any news @jason?
From the moment i mentioned the remote does seem to work, but not as intended, its been radio silence. Is this your way of saying; "ok the customer confirmed the product is working, no further customer service is needed"?
Yes it works, but the buttons are not doing what they are supposed to do and i cannot seem to change them with the skip app. syncing doesnt seem to do anything and im still seriously disappointed with this remote thing you sold me. I expected more.No, it's just me, and I have to manage everything. Sorry, didn't mean to leave you hanging, just trying my best.
Sounds like a configuration problem. Any button can do anything, sounds like you just need to make sure they are mapped to you're liking. I suppose what we automapped isn't correct. So please save your current file. Configure it, and then save the new file, so I can see how you changed it.
Maybe I misunderstood the problem. -
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wait, at the first record? That doesn't make sense. What if you do the command by itself without all the other stuff in front of it?
Just do this on it's own: flirc_util.exe record_api 0x2 0xA6
If that works reliably, it's something else related to windows -
try putting in a sleep 200 ms after each record. You probably have a race condition.
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7 hours ago, Peter D said:
Dear Jason, thanks for the info and I, and of course the Skip, have learned quit a lot again. System is operational and satisfying. One small question: is it possible to remove two knobs out of the recorded file which I have programmed to much?
Do not forget to elect the right person for the next coming 4 years. In EU we all hope for Kamala.
You can remove it by dragging it to the recycling bin that shows up:
Ive gotten in trouble in the past in a blog post when I wrote 'fuck trump' after watching him try to repeal pre-existing medical conditions 4 times (my wife and I are cancer survivors so this was certainly stressful and upsetting).
So I wont make that mistake again.
Oh yeah, before I forget, fuck trump. -
17 minutes ago, Deepcage said:
on a sidenote. you mentioned you are forced to use UWP, something you are bound to. I find this an odd statement. Look at it like this. There are thousands, probably milions of applications on the internet, of which mostly executables or msi installers. Most of them work on the most recent operating systems, seperately from that stupid windows store. A feature i would not even use if i had a choice.
Why dont you write a seperate software package like that? outside of that UWP bullshit? Just thinking out loud ;)The future for the remote is bluetooth/wifi. Once we have those, we need a mobile app. I have a small team, I don’t have the resources to do a different app for every platform. So we are using react native desktop, which microsoft is behind. Once we make the switch, it should be easy to get apps out. However, in order to have a react native desktop app, microsoft’s compiler only creates a UWP app, which is limited in permissions.
Can you attach your log file in the app directory? Maybe there will be a clue in there.
Regarding using the remote disconnected, if you press the 4 dot color button, does anything happen? -
43 minutes ago, Deepcage said:
Hi there, i have been searching the forums for about 8 hours since i've received my Skip 1s via mail-order today.
At first i could not even connect the remote. Something to do with STEAM??? I worked around this by installing the app on my work laptop. However... it still doesn't do diddly squat.
As soon as i unplug the cable, the remote goes offline and/or loses connection. No matter in which USB port i plug the USB Receiver, nothing seems to work.
I read some stuff about a SkipDeviceHIDBroker.exe somethingsomething, but this does not appear on my system. Its installed, but it wont run or do anything as far as i can tell.
I did manage to push a firmware update to the remote, but that also doesnt seem to help. As soon as i take out the cable. Zip, zilch, nada, nope, nothing!
I am on Win11 x64 build 22631
13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-13700K
Didnt think anything else was relevant and didnt want to show-off. so i omitted the rest.
Would really appreciate some assistance with this expensive paper weight i bought from your company or information about returns/refunds will also do the trick for me. I rather buy something that actually works when you plug it in. Ya know... Plug and Play instead of Plug and PRAY.I'm so very sorry for all your frustrations. I hope we can connect if you are still seeing these issues.
Are the batteries plugged in and the right way? Both positives should be pointing up. They should have been wrapped in plastic, can you confirm they are new?
Regarding the driver issue, you can install the driver manually here
The app should have discovered the issue by itself and downloaded, and prompted you to install the driver. You can try doing it manually on the system in question. Please let me know if that doesn't work. Bottom line, it's all windows fault. We are binded to an application within 'UWP (universal windows app)'. They encforce security policies and sometimes outside apps effect our devices. It's a horrible mess and I regret using the technology we've used because of the issues windows randomly creates for us.
Please let me know how these things go, I'll go at any length to solve these issues. -
The repeat isn't the same as pressing the button, letting go, and pressing again, it's how many times the signal is sent out. It really only matters in a macro, but is also a minimum. So if I press quickly a button, it will send 3 packets. The TV wont receive this as 3 button presses. It's like a computer. The duration and repeat pattern depends on the TV.
Does that make any sense?
SkipApp-0.9.993-RC [New Wizard]
in Beta Feedback
Posted
Thanks for this, on it.