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Thanks for reporting this. I'm hoping they'll find a suitable command for this soon, or really, considering how annoying it is to repeatedly hit "Back" just to exit an app, I might just return my Flirc for the time being and wait to repurchase when this issue is resolved.

I solved it. In step #3, the additional customized button on my Harmony remote that I called "Suspend/Wake" is now just set to "0" (not "PowerOff"). In the Flirc GUI, I then set this button to Ctrl + End. In my previous setup, I was sending the "PowerOff" command twice when switching between activities.

The Wake button is for waking PC from sleep. It doesn't operate the power button connection to the motherboard. You need to use command line utility (flirc_util) the way you've mentioned in your post to record the power button, which is currently not available in GUI. In OS X you just drop the .exe extension. I don't know OS X specifics so I don't know if the flirc_util is in PATH and can be accessed from anywhere or if you need first to change the working directory to one containing the executable.

I've been using the flirc with an Intel NUC Windows 10 and a Harmony remote. I have the wake button from the keyboard profile paired, and the power button from the media keys profile paired. The power button will put the PC into sleep mode, and the wake button will wake it back up, but neither will do both. I've tried adjusting BIOS settings for USB waking the PC, and driver settings in Win10 for allowing devices to wake the PC from suspend. Since the wake button is working to bring the PC out of sleep, would it be possible to setup the wake button to send the sleep command when the PC is running? Thanks

Just to be clear - I was trying to record using the commands : flirc_util record pause [menu] flirc_util record print_screen [record In both cases, the command line just sat there at : Press any button on the remote to link it with 'print_screen' And did nothing until I hit one of the color keys.

I don't understand your question. I programmed the Harmony 510 to control my Sony TV, Pioneer AVR and Microsoft Media Center Extender. I then had to assign the key functions for every key used in the Activity I called "Kodi". I programmed every key to perform a function. After finished, I used the Flirc software to assign each key a function using the full keyboard template. Again, every key worked as expected. That's not the problem. The problem is the lack of response from the Harmony 510 remote and Flirc dongle. I have to point it EXACTLY at the dongle or it won't work. Then I have to press the remote's keys more than once (sometimes) to execute the command. I moved the Flirc dongle to front and rear NUC USB ports and used an extension cable and re-positioned the dongle in many different positions and locations. All had the same exact results. Very poor lack of response. I'm not the kind of person that wants to try different fixes, patches or whatever to use a device made to work as-is. I should be receiving an HP MCE IR Receiver later today to use with both my Harmony Remotes. Let's hope it does better than the Flirc.

Solved! According to Logitech, it's not possible to issue continuous commands by pressing and holding the button, when you have assigned different functions for this button depending on whether you short or long press the button: http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Harmony-Hub-Based-Remotes/X1-box-holding-down-page-up-down-button-doesn-t-scroll-through/m-p/1352505#M17478 Based on the above I assigned the Page Up command for both the short and long presses of the ChannelUp/PageUp remote button on MyHarmony and this fixed it.

Hi yawor, thanks for your time. What I meant was that I believe that the Flirc profiles (Kodi and Full Keyboard) have the wrong commands for Page Up and Page Down themselves. I did what you said to to confirm that this applies to the Full Keyboard profile as well; Fired up Flirc GUI, went to Full Keyboard profile, pressed the Page Up button and then pressed the respective Page Up command on my Harmony Ultimate Remote. It recorded successfully but the result is the same; Kodi does not do a Page Up or a Page Down when I press the respective remote buttons. Is there a way to teach the correct commands to the Flirc GUI profiles? Can I click on these two buttons on the profile, erase them and then simply press the Page Up and Page Down keyboard keys to reprogram?

Just to confirm, I have tried in the Command Prompt 'flirc_util.exe record power', upon receiving message 'Successfully recorded button' back, I press the recorded button and the machine does nothing :-( I don't understand where or why it's not working.

If I plug in the Flirc USB Ir device to a Raspberry Pi running OpenElec or OSMC will I be able to send a command to start my Raspberry Pi when it's shutdown?

When you follow the guide for a Harmony and then you added the Open Kodi command by teaching from the Panasonic remote had the Panasonic button already been taught to Open Kodi?

Thanks, I found the cli command for just the windows key. The thing that is confusing me is that I have used a Smart Control Harmony ( with the hub) and made an XBMC media player using the FLIRC profile in the My Harmony database. This does not leave a whole lot of active buttons on the remote. Not all buttons will be active. In order to record a new key in FLIRC don't I need to use a remote that has active buttons?

Hi, You can always record new keys in Flirc GUI if you have enough space in Flirc EEPROM. It can store almost 200 keys (built-in profiles don't count into the limit). You can use built-in profile and record extra keys or you can disable built-in profiles and record all the buttons from the start. That way you have more control. I would not recommend using MCE remote for any key, not only Windows one. Also there is a problem with Windows key because you can't assign anything to just Windows key in the GUI because Windows key is a modifier and it can be only used with some other non-modifier key. You would need to use Flirc command line tool for that. I've described it sometime ago so you should be able to find it using forum search function.

Re: "The software sees the flirc fine, the flirc just doesn't see any remote." So you can program the Flirc without a problem, i.e., you get the "command learned" confirmation dialogue and then if you press that key again it will light up on the GUI? What system did you use to program the Flirc? What happens if you use a keyboard with the OSMC/Kodi system? Does it stay "connected" and recognize the commands it sends?

I've updated my Logitech Harmony to the latest Flirc Kodi device, and I've also upgraded to firmware 3.6. However, I've noticed a few things using logkeys Pressing the following keys: MENU - Nothing, expecting 'M' or 'C' STOP - <BackSp>, should be 'X' PLAY - <Enter>, should be 'P' or <SpaceBar> PAUSE - <E-a6>, should be <SpaceBar> FORWARD - <E-d0> SKIP FWD - <E-a6> REWIND - <E-a8> SEEK BACK - <E-a5> Ch/Pg UP - <E-a3> Ch/Pg DOWN - <E-a5> Anyway, point is, the keys don't seem to be issuing the proper command corresponding to Kodi. Any idea how to fix this? I tried manually remapping the keys, and that doesn't seem to help/work properly. It's also registering double-keypresses, maybe because I set the Inter-Key delay to 0.

I found the steps to downgrade in the Firmware > Bugs forum. Based on a post from another user, I went back to firmware version 2.6, and my FLIRC was usable again. A firmware downgrade was the only thing that worked for me, so hopefully it's OK to post this: Download and install the GUI+Firmware version you want from http://downloads.flirc.tv/release/gui/ Open a command prompt, change to the FLIRC directory, and run flirc_util dfu Start the FLIRC GUI When the GUI starts, it will detect the FLIRC boot loader and download the version of the firmware bundled with the GUI. I was never able to get the Force Upgrade button in the GUI to work, but these steps worked every time.

I am trying to use a URC-900 remote to control my laptop when running JRiver MC20. I read on the support page the hints on using a URC remote. I loaded sony commands into my URC. I then went to the gui. I have the choices under 'controllers' of minimalist, full keyboard, etc. The best choice seems to be 'media keys'. So I matched the sony commands to the 'media keys' and then tried to control MC20. It responded, but didn't work correctly. If I hit the 'next' > key on my remote it skips to the next song, BUT THEN EVERY FEW SECONDS IT WILL SKIP TO THE NEXT SONG without hitting any remote keys. Its as if it were receiving ir commands on its own. I moved the remote out of the room to make sure that the remote wasn't sending an unwanted command, but the problem continued. Am I using the wrong 'controller' page for setup?? I have the JRiver MC20 keyboard hot keys and could use them to enter and match commands if that is possible, but when I opened 'full keyboard' it seems to be for controlling an external device like playstation with a computer keyboard key punch, which is not what I want. Is there a controller page specifically for JRiver MC??

Hi there, It's been a while since I've been to the flirc forums. I have 4 flircs in the house at the moment, all connected to seperate htpc setups and all working great. A while ago in these forums I suggested a feature to add secondary functions to buttons to add more functionality for smaller minimal button remotes like the apple tv remote. An example would be; to wake the pc push and hold a button to trigger the wake command, or push and hold 'up' to adjust volume. Essentially this would double the amount of functionality of a small remote. This suggestion seemed to gain momentum with the creator of flirc even stating that he was even working to implement the feature in a future firmware update. However that was quite some time ago, I don't seem to see any progress on this. Can it be done? And will it be done? Would be great to experiment with this, I'd love to have a secondary function to trigger an IR Blaster to wake my TV using the apple remote.

Hi tommy, I'd guess you didn't record the power button yet (?) To do that, you need to run command prompt, navigate to the folder where you have your flirc installed and run "flirc_util.exe record power" - and press power button on your remote. let me know if it works

update: I've installed it to another PC connected to the same screen - same behavior. After boot or after waking the screen FLIRC gets stuck for few minutes. Keyboard and mouse work fine. I does not happen every time, but frequently enough to drive you crazy. When it stops responding: - rebooting flirc via flirc_util.exe reboot command does not help - if i try to record key via GUI, it records some random stuff immediately - if i reboot the PC, it starts working OK

Hi. The TiVo remotes have a switch that chooses between two TiVo units. When you set them up you choose a unit number for each one and assign a number from 2-9 for each. I want to use TiVo-2 to control the Kodi on a raspberry Pi, and the other to control the tivo itself. I also want to intercept the TiVo command to allow a Kodi plugin to switch my AVR between the TiVo and the Pi. It seems Flirc does not distinguish between the two. I know the internal data values differ in the high order bits. Any way to have separate Flirc key mapping from the two TiVo settings?

Do I understand correctly that you want to map just the Windows key to some button on the remote? You can't do that using the GUI because the Windows key is a modifier key like Shift, Ctrl and Alt keys. The GUI expects that the modifier keys are used with some non-modifier key (so you first click on the desired modifiers and then on the key you want for example ctrl + a). You need to use flirc_util (command line utility): flirc_util.exe record_api 8 0 This will record a HID code 0 (which indicates that no button has been pressed) with Left Win key as a modifier. I've tested this and it works.

Ah ha! To downgrade I found that I can run 'flirc_util.exe dfu' from a command prompt and then start flirc.exe That seems to kick in the bootloader and then things start to work. I tried all versions after 1.2.4 and all of them show the same issue for me sadly :(

Just wondering if you had any luck figuring out the issue? I ordered the remote thinking it should work fine with Flirc...however like you can program one button. Flirc acts like all the buttons are tied together and each isn't sending their own command. This makes me wonder if the remote has to be pseudo paired somehow to get all the buttons to function. Thanks!

Hi: I discovered this amazing product about a month ago. The best thing I like about the Flirc is that the HTPC is programmed to the remote's output, and not vice-versa like "universal remotes" are set up. This means that the smarts are where they belong - in the PC. I thought I would share the hurdles I had in setting up a unit the way I wanted it to run, and how I got around them. A couple words of warning - this is a little DIY. I CAN IN NO WAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RESULTS OR OUTCOME OF THIS PROJECT. If you proceed to follow these directions - you do so at your own risk, My system is custom built like most enthusiasts. It is nothing special except that it has a very porous case with lots of cooling. I do this because I have 12 TB of storage for all my movies, songs and what not. I've lost a lot of equipment in the past by letting it overheat, and that has been painful. This setup can be kind of noisy and collect a lot of dust, so I have it in a cooled entertainment center cabinet behind glass - and therein lies the problem. As you know, IR equipment does not like to work through glass. Even the BEST remotes I could find were only 85% reliable through it. In addition, the USB dongle Flirc offers did not have the ability to turn the system on and off via the IR remote from the S5 state, which meant that I STILL HAD to open the door to turn the unit on. I still wanted to use a Flirc, but I needed a receiver that could be placed away from the system outside the cabinet. Enter the Flirc SE (http://www.streacom.com/products/flirc-se-adaptive-ir-receiver/). This is a version of the Flirc made for Streacom Cases. It is a simple circuit board with the IR receiver elements on it and a couple of header connectors - AND IT HAS THE ABILITY TO ACTIVATE THE PC POWER SYSTEM. So with the Flirc SE, an old power supply box, a couple of 10 ft USB 2.0 cables (Type A Male to anything else), and an external power bracket, I was able to build something that fit my needs. STEP 1: I stripped the old Toshiba power supply keeping only the box. Pick a box which has a good size window for the IR receiver/transmitter elements in the Flirc. In addition you'll need the Flirc, a couple of 10 foot USB cables, an external power bracket, and some odds and ends including some colored acetate for the window, Epoxy, and a small standoff/other means of holding the circuit board in place. STEP 2: Epoxy the standoff in the box so that the Flirc elements are in the window and you can get at the header connectors after assembly. Set it aside to dry well. STEP 3: You'll need to be good at soldering here - The Flirc SE comes with some cords that help with installation. We will need to use the connectors from these cords. Remove the miniature ends from the 10 ft USB cord and the header connectors that came with cords on the Flirc SE, and solder the two together. CAUTION: Be sure to follow the color code/pinout standards FOR USB that can be found throughout the web. This will be how the Flirc will communicate the normal IR commands to the Flirc software. This will give you a 10 Ft. cord with a 4 pin Female USB header connector on one end and a Type A USB male connector on the other. STEP 4: Remove the ends from the 2nd USB cord and the power switch cord that came With the Flirc SE, and solder them together. The correct wiring diagram can be found at the Strecom website above under user manuals section. CAUTION: Be sure to keep track of the Positive (+) and Negative(-) terminals all the way through to the connection to the motherboard. For my setup, I used some old Molex ® connectors I had around to match the multi-Molex ® external power bracket I had already installed for some fans in an empty slot. This will give you a 10 Ft. cord with a 4 pin Female header connector on one end and (in my case) Molex connector on the other. STEP 5: Assemble the box. Be sure the tie knots in the USB cable just inside the box for strain relief. STEP 6: Wire the inside of the computer. One pair of the power switch leads from the Flirc power plug will go the computer's power switch, the other pair will go to the motherboard. CAUTION: Be sure to observe polarity throughout if there is one marked. STEP 7: Download and install the latest Flirc software and firmware. At this point in time, you will have to run the "flirc_util" command line software to record the key you wish to press to turn power on and off. That information can be found by searching out "flirc_util.exe record power" elsewhere in the forum. Please see the attached photos. Hopefully they'll help. You'll see I have an iRainey pictured here, but it doesn't matter WHAT remote you use. You're free to use any remote you want! That's about all I can think of. I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but this one worked for me, and it was FUN! Good Luck! JoeA