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Posts posted by yawor

  1. I can confirm that the Ortek doesn't work well with Flirc. But NEC2 should work without issues. I'm using NECx2 with my Flirc and it works perfectly with the remote. I don't have the RF though (Nevo C2). There are sometimes some issues when the transmitter is too close to Flirc. Flirc's receiver is very sensitive and doesn't even need the direct line of sight to pick up the signal from the remote. Mine is behind the TV and picks the signal bounced from walls. So if the transmitter is close to the the Flirc try moving Flirc farther or place some IR-opaque object so the Flirc is not lit directly from the transmitter's IR diodes.

    BTW which Flirc do you have?

  2. Hi xnappo.

    Flirc doesn't support such functionality, at least not yet. I've proposed something similar myself, but my idea was to be able to directly add a hash value (Flirc doesn't store the original signal, but a calculated hash). I like your idea with importing from a raw signal like the one in the log output, but I don't know if it would be possible.

    Regarding the "less than optimal" learns you don't have to worry. As I've mentioned Flirc doesn't store full learned signal but calculates its hash value. The algorithm for that is not that sensitive to signal variation between key presses. The same algorithm is applied during normal operation. So if the key works after learning its signal then the hash has been calculated correctly (the hash calculated for a signal during the normal operation must be equal to the hash calculated during recording for key to be recognised afterwards). As you can see providing perfect raw data (for example from IrScrutinizer) wouldn't make any difference.

    BTW I'm a JP1 member myself :) (my nick there is yaworski). You've probably seen some of my posts.

  3. Ok, I've configured my universal remote for that DVD player and I know what's going on. The remote actually sends two frames (sets of signals) on a single button press. The issue is that the first frame is always the same and only the second one differs depending on the button. When recording, Flirc sees the first frame and records it. When you record next button, Flirc sees the same first frame again and reports an error because it already has it recorded in the memory. Probably the second one, for Bluray, uses the same schema.

    I'm sorry to disappoint you but there's nothing I can do for you at the moment to make these remotes work for you. It's hard to add support for control schemes like that and this takes a lot of time and testing.

  4. In newer versions for 2nd gen Flirc you can switch on and off individual built-in profiles. You can try disabling Kodi profile on one of them and FireTV on the other. To do that, connect one of the Flircs to your computer and open Flirc GUI. Then go to advanced settings and uncheck one of the profiles (or uncheck all and leave only one of them you actually want). Then unplug the first one and do the same with the other one.

  5. Hi,

    The flirc_util.exe is located in the folder where you've chosen to install Flirc software. Usually it's in C:\Program Files (x86)\Flirc unless you've changed it during the installation.

    The easiest way to use it on Windows is to open the installation folder in Explorer and use one of the methods described here: https://superuser.com/questions/339997/how-to-open-a-terminal-quickly-from-a-file-explorer-at-a-folder-in-windows-7. This should open a terminal windows (cmd.exe) with the correct location. Then you can use flirc_util.exe like described in other threads.

    The only limitation when recording is that you can't record the same button multiple times. There's no restriction on recording the same function to multiple remote buttons (unless the remote sends the same code for multiple buttons). What error do you get? That the button already exist? Maybe you've already recorded the skip forward/backward buttons to something else? If yes, then try clicking on erase and when asked press the skip forward button on the remote and then try to record it again using function you want.

    BTW Kodi also has dedicated buttons for skip forward/backward. You can check default key bindings here: http://kodi.wiki/view/Keyboard_controls. So you don't need to map left/right cursor keys to these buttons on the remote. Use "." (period) for forward and "," (comma) for backward.

  6. Hi,

    It is possible to load the configuration and the software will try to do its best to convert the old config structure to the new one. Unfortunately, because 2nd gen changed a lot in how it works when compared to 1st gen, the conversion is not always successful. Possible issues that may occur:

    - keys don't repeat at all or multiple key presses when pressing the remote button - This may happen because 1st gen had an Interkey delay setting which is obsolete on 2nd gen, as 2nd gen now records the time between the signals. 1st gen configuration is missing that information and conversion has to use default value for that.
    - keys don't work at all - This may happen with some remotes, as the IR signal hashing algorithm had some recent optimisations when used with some remotes.

    To fix any of these issues, there's no other way than to clear the configuration and record all the keys from the start. I know this may be inconvenient, but it'll give you the best results.

  7. Yes, that's the idea. I see that this model supports 4 devices. Just select one that is not being used for anything right now and enter some setup code. For example on my OneForAll Simple 4 (URC 6440) I'm using a TV setup code 2051, which is for a Samsung TV (I don't have a Samsung TV) and it works really good with Flirc. To use a TV setup code on non-TV device on OFA remote, you first need to remap that device. It's easy to do:

    (this page contains codes that may not work on your remote or work in a different way than described, you should be careful if you want to try some of them - but if they're used correctly, they can be really helpful)

    As you can see, the 992 code can be used to remap device button.

    From what I can see, your remote doesn't have physical device buttons, but just a MODE button which switches selected device (indicated by LED at the top). Also the Magic button on your remote is the same as SETUP in the instruction. When the linked instruction says: "TAP the "from" DEVICE, (ie, the one you are copying from)", you need to use MODE button to select the device and press magic.

    So for example, if you want to use TV code on SAT device:

    1. Hold Magic until you see 2 blinks
    2. Enter code 992 using digit keys - if code is accepted you should get another 2 blinks
    3. Using MODE button, select TV, press Magic
    4. Using MODE button, select SAT, press Magic - the remote should confirm with 2 blinks

    After that you can try programming 2051 on the SAT key. Hold the Magic until you get 2 blinks, select SAT and enter 2051. You should get another 2 blinks as confirmation.

    If you get a single long blink, that means the remote didn't accept the command.

    • Thanks 1
  8. OneForAll remotes are universal remotes. You should have a user manual with yours, which explain how to program multiple different devices on it. Just select a different device button on your remote, program it to some different device than your TV and use that device to program your Flirc.

    If you want more information then you need to provide more info yourself. At least what is the exact model of the remote?

    • Thanks 1
  9. Unfortunately 1st gen Flirc (the plastic one) doesn't have any logging capabilities built-in so there's no way I can see what does your remote send actually to analyse it further. The new 2nd gen Flirc (metal) can show IR data in the log window. I don't know if buying new Flirc would fix your problems right away, but it would certainly give more insight into what's going on.

  10. Please don't double post. I've deleted now your topic in General Forum.

    The LG Magic Remote has a universal remote feature which is configured directly on your TV for selected input (like HDMI1, HDMI2 etc). If you're already using that feature, then change the device model and type assigned to the input to something else.

  11. Are you trying to use your original TV remote you're using to also control your TV, to also control your HTPC? Does this remote has any universal remote control capability? If not then both your TV and HTPC (through Flirc) will see the same signal and react to it - both devices may execute some actions upon pressing some buttons.

    • Thanks 1
  12. I don't think there was ever a codec info key in the built-in Harmony profiles. I don't see it in either a 1st nor 2nd gen.

    Can you save a configuration from 1st gen and attach it here? Maybe you've recorded the codec info key yourself and you've forgotten about it.

    You can fix it yourself. Just plug your 2nd gen Flirc to your PC or Mac, fire up the Flirc GUI and select full keyboard controller in the controllers menu. Then press key O (as in Olive, not zero) on the virtual keyboard and when asked to press a button on the remote, press the button you on Harmony you use to invoke codec info.

  13. I don't see any issues with your config file. Have you checked your ADB setting on your Android box? It should be disabled.

    Can you connect an USB keyboard to your Android box? Does it work?

    When Flirc is connected to the PC, open any text editor (it must be in focus) and then press the buttons on your remote. Does it work?

  14. It shouldn't behave like that.

    What operating system do you use? Are you familiar with using command line? There's a command line util called flirc_util which is installed together with the GUI.

    Connect your Flirc, first start the GUI to be sure it's in normal mode (the software should show firmware version, not bootloader version). Then close the GUI (it's important, as GUI and cli can't be run at the same time).

    On Windows, you need to open cmd.exe (or powershell) and change directory to where you've installed the Flirc software. Run "flirc_util.exe normal" (without quotes).
    On Mac, you need to open a terminal and go to where the software on OS X is installed (don't have OS X so I'm not sure what's the exact path). Run "./flirc_util normal" (again, without quotes).
    On Linux, the flirc_util should be already in PATH, so just open a terminal and run "flirc_util normal".

    If the command is successful you should see a message like "Succesfully set device to normal operation".

    After that check if this is still happening.

  15. To be clear, the controller you choose in the GUI doesn't have anything to do with the remote itself. So it doesn't matter which controller you're using in this case.

    Regarding your log file. That's a NEC protocol. It should work with Flirc without any issues. Can you do the same again but this time clear the Flirc configuration before starting? Then try recording your keys while the IR debug is enabled.

    Also hold the remote button longer when you record (about 1 second should be enough).

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