yawor
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Posts posted by yawor
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What remote control are you using?
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I should have read this before i ordered my Flirc.
I was going to use the Beolink 1000 og Beo4 remote :(
Any chance a firmware upgrade will make them work in the future? Maybe we already are in the futue from the last post made in 2013?
Do you mean Flirc firmware update? It's not a software issue. It requires a different receiver hardware.
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There's always a way to overcome the lack of power in the USB port, but requires some electrical skills and you would need to do it on your own risk.
One of the wires in ATX motherboard power connector (marked 5VSB, 5 V standby) is always powered if the PSU is plugged into the mains. Flirc can be powered from that line. To do that, you would need to cut 5v wire (only this one) from the ribbon cable connecting Flirc to the USB port and then wire it to the ATX 5VSB line.
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It should work. You can confirm if you have USB port powered by disconnecting the device from power, then plug something that draw power from USB (like a phone) and connect the power. The device should indicate that it draws the power from USB. But you actually connect the Flirc SE to the internal USB port pin header. You need to make sure that these ports are also powered (there's a small risk that only external ports are powered when shut down, but I think the internal should also be powered).
To record the power button you need to use command line utility flirc_util (it's installed together with Flirc GUI) by calling
flirc_util.exe record power
and then pressing the button you want. But you need to remember, that this button can't be assigned to anything else. It'll always "push" the motherboard power button, so when the system is started it will shutdown or go to sleep (depending on the system settings) when you press the button again.
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@brunoland when you shut down your PC, is the LED on Flirc SE still lit? For Flirc SE to be able to power up the PC, it needs to be powered. Some motherboards don't provide power to USB ports when shut down.
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You should have separate device profile for each device you want to control. You should add an MCE device profile to control your Windows Media Center PC and some other device profile (different than MCE and different than any hardware you have at home) you'll pair with your Flirc using Flirc GUI.
I don't use Harmony myself, but from what I know, you can then create activities where you can mix keys from multiple profiles together.
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The inter-key delay setting is for old Flirc only. The new Flirc uses different algorithm to recognise repeats. The algorithm still needs tweaking, that's for sure.
In the mean time, you are both using universal remotes. Have you tried to change to a different device profile and test if it works better with Flirc? There are different IR protocols and some of them use different techniques to inform the receiver that the key is still pressed.
The new algorithm records the time between signals when the button is being held. Try recording the button like normal, but when the GUI asks to press a button on the remote then hold it until you see the message that the operation was successful.
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Unless you program your Flirc to recognise MCE remote there's no problem at all. You should create separate profiles on your Harmony remote for both devices.
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Advanced settings are disabled for new Flirc. With old Flirc they shouldn't be disabled.
New Flirc doesn't use advanced settings right now.
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1st gen are Flirc USB in a clear plastic case and Flirc SE. Both are basically the same hardware but in different form factor (they use the same micro-controller and firmware).
2nd gen is the new Flirc USB in metal case. It uses new, ARM core based micro-controller, with much more memory and processing power. I don't know if there are any plans right now for 2nd gen Flirc in the same form factor like Flirc SE.
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1st gen Flirc hardware (Flirc USB in plastic case and Flirc SE) doesn't support keystroke sequences and most probably won't ever (not enough space in the device for that).
The new, 2nd get hardware (Flirc USB in metal case) doesn't support keystroke sequences yet, but this is coming sometime in the future, but I don't think there's a plan for configurable delays in between keystrokes (but who knows, the feature is not here yet so everything can happen).
On the other hand you can use command line switches with JRiver. Look at this link:
https://wiki.jriver.com/index.php/The_Command_LineYou can modify your desktop shortcut by adding /Mode switch with the mode you want to the exe path and start the app into that mode right away, without the need to switch it later.
So you can use
/Mode Fullscreen
to start in fullscreen mode, or
/Mode Theater
to start in Threader View.
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There's currently no beta firmware for 1st gen Flirc. Lastest stable (I think 1.3.8) is right now the newest firmware.
As for the new features it depends. 1st gen Flirc devices don't have much program space left on the micro controller used in them. That makes it very hard to add any new features. I think that Jason won't drop the support any time soon and if it's possible to squeeze some new features into that small micro then I think he will do that.
But I also think that more advanced features which are going to be implemented on 2nd gen Flirc, like key sequences or sending IR signals back, won't be coming to 1st gen (especially the latter one as the IR blaster was added on the 2nd gen).
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That's true, but maybe Tablo reacts also to some other key or key combination besides KEYCODE_BUTTON_B.
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If the application doesn't respect USB keyboard input then there's nothing Flirc can do. You can connect some USB keyboard to your Shield TV and test if the app responds to some other keys or key combinations that Tablo interprets as a back key.
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I'm not up to the speed with the PS4 so I'm not sure what may be going wrong. You can plug any standard USB keyboard and try if you can control your PS4 with it. Flirc uses the same HID protocol as an USB keyboard, so as long as you are able to control a device with an USB keyboard you should be able to do the same with Flirc.
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Hi,
It should work out of the box, unless your remote uses some strange IR protocol. You can also try different values of Interkey delay in Advanced settings in the GUI.
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Hi,
Yep, that's a known thing. GUI still doesn't have support for recording Flirc-SE power button. GUI only supports wake up key, which works with both Flirc USB and Flirc-SE, but only for waking up from a suspension or hibernation. I think having Flirc-SE power button programmable from GUI would require detection of the specific model in the software and showing this button only for users of Flirc-SE. Otherwise there would be a lot of people reporting that power button doesn't work on their Flirc USB units. Unfortunately current GUI doesn't differentiate between both models.
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Hi all,
Please be patient, this is a totally new hardware comparing to the old Flirc so it requires a different approach to implement the same or equivalent features that worked properly on old hardware.
Please remember, that Flirc is being developed by a single person and it's hard to test every single hardware combination out there. Jason already knows that there's an issue with waking up and I'm sure this is being worked on. It's not a simple feature. Old Flirc users may also remember how much time it took for this feature to become stable. I think this time it won't take that much time.
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Hi,
All previous posts regarding sending IR signals are in regard to older Flirc hardware (Flirc USB in clear plastic cover and Flirc-SE) and are still true. Old hardware doesn't contain IR transmitting capabilities (no IR transmitting diode and not enough program space on the chip).
The new hardware indeed contains hardware required for transmitting IR signals but the feature is not yet ready on the software/firmware part and so is not available yet. It's one of the features I'm also eagerly waiting on. I don't know how the feature is going to be exposed to the user, but I like your idea of controlling it with external script or software.
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I don't think it's possible right now. The structure of the configuration differs a lot between old and new Flirc. It's possible there will be some conversion possibility in the future but I think it would still be better to start fresh. New Flirc handles key repeats better by detecting delay between signal repeats and saving that together with button data. The conversion from old config won't be able to figure out that value because you need original IR signal from the remote during recording of keys. It would need to use some default value which would work with some remotes but wouldn't with others.
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You can check if the remote is sending any IR signals with your phone's camera. If you point your camera at the remote's IR blaster diodes you should see flashes of light in the camera app.
I don't know much about Harmony so I won't be able to help you much with its configuration.
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If you are able to assign other remote buttons to directional keys in Flirc and they work then it's not an issue with Flirc, but with your Harmony setup. It looks like your directional buttons are not sending any IR signals. Make sure you've set your Harmony properly, maybe change a device profile to some other hardware type and re-learn all the buttons again.
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Flirc doesn't work with MCE Keyboard. If you want to start Kodi, then create a keyboard shortcut in Windows to execute kodi and then use Full Keyboard controller in Flirc GUI to assign some remote button to it.
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I don't know what protocol is used by this remote but it may be NEC. If yes then this is a known issue with the way new Flirc handles repeats. This is being worked on so hang tight. You can try using it with different remote. If it doesn't use any NEC family protocol then it should work properly. The issue comes from the fact that NEC protocol doesn't use full frame repeats but only sends the command once and then sends short pulses that inform the receiver that the button is still pressed.
From what I've observed the advanced settings may not yet work with new Flirc. Also Interkey delay is probably not needed and won't be supported by new Flirc as the repeat handling works in a different way (it detects delay between repeats during recording and stores that value together with the signal, so there is no need to manually tune that anymore).
---edit---
I've found details of protocol used by Emotiva's XDA-1 remote. It is NEC1 with Device 6 and Sub Device 255. It's hard to tell if XDA-2 also uses the same protocol, but it's highly probable.
Compatibility and Setup
in General Questions
Posted
First of all, the above solution is the last resort when the USB port doesn't provide 5 volts by itself in the shut down mode. I've just mentioned that this can be done. It certainly shouldn't if not needed. As for the "adaptor", there are ATX 24-pin extension cables.
Regarding the power on function, the Flirc SE does its "magic" by acting as a physical power button. You need to disconnect your case's power button from the motherboard, then you connect Flirc SE to the power button pins on the motherboard by using included cable. After that you connect case's power button to the Flirc, so it still works.