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Simaryp

Remove IR-Receiver from FLIRC-SE from PCB

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Hello,

I tried to contact Support, but even with all addons deactivated I get the message I seem not be a human, which hurts a bit ;).

So I am ending up here with my questions.

I really like the concept of Flirc being an USB Keyboard, which helps avoid messing around with lirc etc.

I am planing to set up an HTPC and I am considering using an FLIRC-SE in my LianLi PC-C37.  In order to this I would really like to remove the IR-receiver from the board and resolder it again with some wires. By this I would gain huge flexibility to set up a position for it.
So first question is: Is the IR-receiver solely hold by solder or is it glued in addition? The latter would make it complicated to detach it.

Second question. What is the receiver in general. Is it an IR-diode or an IR-transistor? Is there something one can search for in order to replace it? It would be really nice if one could get an replacement in a typical LED housing. With this one could use typical LED mounts making search for IR-window material avoidable.

Best regards,
Simaryp

 

PS: Is it possible to configure FLIRC SE under LibreELEC using an CLI?

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Be advised that any changes you do to the Flirc's board you do at your own risk, they void warranty and may lead to irreversible damage to the unit.

I'm not 100% sure (@jason should know exactly) but I think it's only soldered. The receiver is not just a photo-diode or photo-transistor. It's an integrated circuit containing an IR signal demodulator. I've never seen a demodulating receiver in a classic LED form package.

You can look here what are the available packages: http://www.vishay.com/ir-receiver-modules/. I think the current one is a Heimdall type for 38 kHz, but I'm not able to tell you which part number exactly. I think the Minimold type would be best match to what you want. They should be electrically compatible (Heimdall has 4 pins, but 2 of them are just ground). You still need one for 38 kHz, but I'm not able to tell you which part number you should use.

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Of course I can understand that the warranty will vanish. But in the worst case I loose 30€. But actually desoldering a device is not to risky. I also modded an old Sega Master System in the past. I think soldering on the chips was more risky than this.

I found in the catalog of a local electronic shop the following device:

http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/175000-199999/184301-da-01-en-IR_RECEIVER_2_7_5_5V_OS_0038N.pdf

This link leads to the technical data sheet which is thankfully in english. This is not in a standard 5mm case but still should fit perfectly into the reset button hole of the LianLi case.

Would this follow the specification? At least it is a receiver with 38kHz too. But I don't know whether the other specifications will fit the Flirc-SE.

 

By the way: Is the latest Blog entry on your side a challenge to guess the purpose of the rogue one? Wasn't really clear for me. I wrote a comment but it seems it went lost.

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2 hours ago, Simaryp said:

Of course I can understand that the warranty will vanish. But in the worst case I loose 30€. But actually desoldering a device is not to risky. I also modded an old Sega Master System in the past. I think soldering on the chips was more risky than this.

I found in the catalog of a local electronic shop the following device:

http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/175000-199999/184301-da-01-en-IR_RECEIVER_2_7_5_5V_OS_0038N.pdf

This link leads to the technical data sheet which is thankfully in english. This is not in a standard 5mm case but still should fit perfectly into the reset button hole of the LianLi case.

Would this follow the specification? At least it is a receiver with 38kHz too. But I don't know whether the other specifications will fit the Flirc-SE.

 

By the way: Is the latest Blog entry on your side a challenge to guess the purpose of the rogue one? Wasn't really clear for me. I wrote a comment but it seems it went lost.

I'm fine with you doing this. The only thing that could go wrong, is that you lift the solder pads off the PCB, which is very likely if something is going to be hanging off the pcb. Don't worry about the warranty, it's just me to say so, so unless the board is physically damaged, it's not a big deal.

The board is made to be mounted into a case, I would think it would be better to modify your case to be compatible. It's just a few holes and you can use the board as a template. Just drill three holes and call it a day.

Here is the part I use: TSOP77338TR (you can figure out which pads are what based on the parts datasheet).

The part you chose will work. The only thing is that if you don't solder those parts leads directly to the PCB, and you use extension wires, you're asking for frustration. Any kind of wires need to be thick enough to support the current over the length of it, plus, if they aren't shielded, and you stick them in a computer case, there are going to be all sorts of random noise.

You could definitely damage the PCB if those leds touch and there isn''t good USB isolation. Let us know how it goes. Hacking is always welcome. That's how flirc started in the first place.

 

 

 

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So you give warranty even to modded devices? Thats kind of cool.

I know from the pinholeboards that if one does a bad job and heats the pad too long that they detach. Maybe its worse with PCB. But the board is quite empty around this place so even if the pads get detaches one can use maybe some sandpaper to get a blank contact again.

Thanks for mentioning the specific device. The parameters seem indeed pretty identical.

Of course wires can be really good antennas. I would maybe use just some isolated cables and twist them or use some paint coated twin pair wires. Of course one hast too make sure that there is nor short. In the past i really liked using heat glue to that purpose. The other product I am considering is the YARD2. There the receiver is mend to be connected by cables. So I hope this should work. Anyway I prefer your device because of the keyboard principle.

I am not super sure about the realization yet. My first idea was to glue some IR-transmitting window behind the hole of either the reset or power button. Since I only need one button for this I can make with the IR-receiver better use of this already existing drill hole. The problem is that I don't see a straight forward way to mount the FLIRC-SE directly at this position. There is some construction for the buttons which limits the space. In addition I don't see a straight forward way to make mount points for the board there. Therefore I had the idea of taping or screwing the board to an empty drive bay and  use wires. Since I can not really find offers for small amounts of IR window material I had the idea to just use a LED like receiver and put it into a typical LED mount which should fit probably good in the reset button hole. If this works out I don't need to mod the case and have a neat and simple receiver.

 

About the setup question. Is it possible to configure the FLIRC under LibreELEC?

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I've been looking at pictures of that LianLi case. There's indeed no good place on the front face to modify. But I see that it has a lot of perforated surfaces on the side and top of the case for the air flow. Flirc's receiver is really sensitive. It's a good chance that if you mount it to the case's right wall where the perforation is, with the IR receiver's lenses pointing outside, it's going to be enough to work properly. No need for IR window. Just make sure to put some isolation on the PCB as there are some soldering points, so it doesn't short out when it touches the metal case.

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So it can detect on a 90° angle? Downside of this is that one need to aim then always to one side.

If the linked receiver is really compatible, I will go to the shop and ask them what fitting housing they have for it, to get an impression. Might be that the out popping housing also looks a bit weird. Maybe I will take a remote and camera and check their colored acryl plates for transmittance. If I find one, I will just use heat glue to glue the window to the case and the receiver onto the window. This should be transmissive too. In this case I could also just use the FLIRC receiver as well and just solder some wires to it.

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My Flirc (normal USB one in my case) is behind the TV. I don't even need to point the remote at some specific location. You can also try mounting it on the back panel. The signal should bounce from the wall behind the HTPC. I would try this before making some irreversible modding.

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