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Posts posted by jason

  1. On 8/3/2022 at 1:32 PM, Googlhupf said:


    First time poster and long time FLIRC user here.  :-D

    I found out about the Skip 1S just hours ago. I've been reading everything I could find about it. My Harmony is on its way out and will need to be replaced soon. :-/

    I have questions. To program the FLIRC USB, you need to have a remote that sends a unique IR code for each button. Even with a very good device database, you can't have buttons for everything. Say I want a button that brings up the audio delay slider in KODI. There can't possibly be a button for everything. Does the Skip app allow creation of a new button that brings its own new IR code? When I needed a custom button on my Harmony, I just grabbed an ancient VCR remote and learned an IR code from that. What's the Skip's approach to that?

    As for the IR database... Is that your own or third party? What about European makes and models?

    Will there be a connection between the FLIRC USB and Skip app?

    Greetings from Germany



    To add on to Nate's response, it's a commercial licensed database. It's updated frequently, and well done. We will have in an update a mode, similar to how flirc works, where you can learn buttons into the remote. 

    Flirc has it's own protocol, and if you need a code, there will be a ton of extra named, 'custom1, custom200, etc. You can use those to repurpose whether it's through flirc, or another device. I'll publish the IR spec as well.

  2. Thank you so much for the feedback. Yes, there is a lot that we didn't include on the 1s. But we have a lot of plans, and it was really important for us to start from scratch. Too many companies try to throw everything in the remote and fuck it all up, it's complicated. So we started with the basic, want to nail it, and then we'll be rolling out additional technologies. Not to mention the chip shortage really screwed everything up.

    But one of the best things we did, was do everything in react native desktop. This is not a webapp, this was a massive effort. And that was specifically so we can leverage a lot of our work back to tablet/mobile. 

    I could say for certain, I do not want to do a hub. I don't like those things. No reason why everything can't be on the remote.

  3. Yes, the two serial ports are correct.

    Yes, this is most likely the issue. You need an ELF file. Then you can start up gdb and point to the elf file:

    You start gdb and point to the elf file:

      arm-none-eabi-gdb 'elf file you want to flash'

    Now from GDB, you can connect to an attached device. Attach the JTAG cable to the target. But you need to tell GDB where to go, so let's point it to the serial port:
      target extended-remote /dev/cu.usbmodemJEFF1

    (I'm not sure what the destination is on windows, but replace /dev/cu....)

    Then tell the probe what kind of JTAG you want to use, probably 2 wire serial:
      monitor swdp_scan

    Assuming you see the target, you can attach to it:
      attach 1

    Then you can load the file:


    You can now walk through and step through various aspects of code, assuming the elf file has debug symbols in it. We're going to start diving into advanced firmware topics, and I'm not sure your experience. 

    Here is the documentation, for the same product the firmware is derived from: https://github.com/blackmagic-debug/blackmagic

    They have a lot of documentation, and a wiki to get started.


  4. I think it's because you need to have the windows driver installed. Or re-run as an administrator. Windows is a piece of dog shit for stuff like this. This is why all my products use HID and all my apps can talk to them driverless. Because I'm 100% done with drivers in windows. I've spent enough time on the phone helping people with 'unknown device' in device manager trying to force install my own drivers.


  5. You can let go of the button after you plug it in after waiting a second or two. You should see a different usb product ID show up.


    PID_6018 for the main app

    PID_6017 for the DFU

    I think you need the driver installed for both in windows. If you have linux, you might have an easier time.


  6. As long as they are common ground, you don't need to, I think I had a bug on the first version, which this may be. What version shows on the board? I'll swap it out if it's an old one.

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