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AT&T U-verse S10-S4 remote?


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AT&T U-verse S10-S4 remote -- Has anyone gotten this remote to work with Flirc?


I've searched the forums and google and haven't found any solutions.  It would be great if the remotes did work with Flirc as they have quite a few buttons, have a good layout for PVR, and they're pretty cheap to buy on eBay.


Right now, I've got 2 Flirc's and 2 remotes and using different pairings came to the conclusion that Flirc doesn't understand the U-verse remote IR signals.  Which kinda surprises me since I thought Flirc was IR protocol independent -- basically it just sees an IR signal and associates that with a keypress.  Maybe I'm wrong about that though...


The symptoms are that programming a button ("1" for example) works, but then Flirc sees the same IR code for the button "3" and reports that it has already been programmed.   I've only tried the number buttons so far.  Multiple clearing configs, updating firmware, updating Flirc software, using both Windows and Linux Flirc software.  


Also tried setting the U-verse to "Media Center PC" button and still get the same symptoms.  One strange thing I've noticed is that when I press the number buttons, the "AT&T" device button lights up instead of the "Aux" button which I had programmed for "Media Center PC".  That seems to be telling me that the number buttons are "hard-coded" to send AT&T IR signals, presumably for their AT&T U-verse boxes.


If there are any Flirc settings to try, let me know.  I think I've tried them all but I'm willing to try again.  Also, I found an old AT&T u-verse lircd.conf file so maybe that will help figure out why Flirc can't "read" the IR signal being sent by the remote?






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Yes, Flirc is protocol independent but that doesn't mean that it is able to work with any protocol. Unfortunately some protocols are harder to work with than the others and not all work in the 38kHz base frequency range to which Flirc is tuned. The way Flirc works is that it create a "hash" of IR signal using some algorithm. Some protocols may have some signal part changing even when pressing the same button (for example Windows Media Center remotes using RC-6 protocol do that) resulting in different hash every second key press (thus requiring to record each button at least two times).


On the other side some signals may create the same hash value as others. It hard for me to guess what may be the reason as I don't know the actual algorithm used in Flirc. The best would be to somehow capture RAW IR data from the remote and send it to Jason for analysis. Otherwise Jason has to buy exact same remote himself to do some tests so it may take some time to find out why this remote behaves badly with Flirc.

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Thanks for the technical info, it's good to know.


What's the best way to capture the raw IR data?  Is there any way to do that using the Flirc itself?


As a last resort, since I'm not using the remotes at this point anyway, I'd be willing to send Jason the remote.  But is it feasible to send the remote or are we talking major shipping fees for a $5 remote control?


Thanks - Eraf

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Figured I'd post the AT&T U-verse lircd.conf file that I found, just in case it has some useful troubleshooting info.


Note: It's from 2009 so not sure if it is actually for the S10-S4 model that I have.


# this config file was automatically generated
# using lirc-0.8.6(default) on Sun Dec 20 14:45:21 2009
# contributed by
# brand: ATT
# model no. of remote control: U-Verse
# devices being controlled by this remote:

begin remote

name ATT_U-Verse
bits 16
eps 30
aeps 256

header 525 384
one 238 896
zero 238 471
ptrail 256
gap 96002
toggle_bit_mask 0x20

begin codes
KEY_UP 0x5856
KEY_0 0x50D0
KEY_1 0x5851
KEY_2 0x58D1
KEY_3 0x5051
KEY_4 0x58D0
KEY_5 0x5053
KEY_6 0x50D1
KEY_7 0x5853
KEY_8 0x58D2
KEY_9 0x5852
KEY_A 0x58D6
KEY_B 0x5857
KEY_C 0x58DB
KEY_BACK 0x5859
X_KEY_VOD 0x585C # Was: KEY_VOD
KEY_STOP 0x5854
KEY_PLAY 0x5856
end codes

end remote

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Found some more info that might be relevant.  It's from 2009 though.



"This is indicitive of a new wave of issues with IR repeating systems.
The AT&T;U’verse box uses a new IR code structure call RC-MM from Philips.
The MM stands for Multi-Media. This codes contains more information than previous IR codes like NEC codes most maufacturers use.
This code structure contains more information and is faster.
This RC-MM not only contains more information but the sensor in the cable box doesn’t allow for as much error in the codes as with previous IR codes.
http://www.sbprojects.com/knowledge/ir/rcmm.htm  <—- is a link for more information on Philips RC-MM codes"


Going to the SB Projects website, I found this:


  • 12 bits or 24 bits per message
  • Pulse position coding, sending 2 bits per IR pulse
  • Carrier frequency of 36kHz
  • Message time ranges from 3.5 to 6.5 ms, depending on data content
  • Repetition time 28 ms (36 messages per second)
  • Manufacturer Philips


Is this info any use in troubleshooting?



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The carrier frequency should be within range (I think 38 kHz is optimal, but 36 kHz is still OK) but it seems that the message is more compressed into the IR signal - at least based on the info that RC-MM contains more info and is transmitted faster than NEC. Maybe this is a problem. Maybe the Media Center mode also uses this new protocol.


Does this remote have ability to set it to control other devices like TV or DVR?

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The remote actually supports a lot of different devices.  I've tried a couple and can successfully program buttons like play/stop/ff/rewind/etc.



The buttons causing the most problems are the number buttons.  Whenever I press one of those, the AT&T device light flashes no matter which device is actually selected. That tells me that those buttons probably are "hard-coded" to send AT&T IR codes only.  Pressing other buttons like play and rewind flash the active device light as expected.


I'm not sure why Flirc would have a problem with AT&T-specific IR codes, unless those are really out of Flirc's frequency range.  I'd be willing to send an IR signal capture if someone could tell me how to do it.


Thanks for the feedback!


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If that remote were UEI/URC/OFA produced then there could be a way to disable the "punch through" option for numeric keys. I've been trying to find what is the manufacturer for the remote but I couldn't find any info, but it probably isn't UEI because I couldn't find an info about this remote at http://hifi-remote.com/forumseither.

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Hmm I think there might be a possibility to reconfigure the channel buttons. I've found a setup guide for AT&T u-verse standard remote so I don't know if this is your model but it may also work.




Look at Advanced Features Setup, point A. It describes how to switch modes for volume and channel keys. You probably want option A2.

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The link that you posted is the same as the link that I posted, so yes, they're the same remote.   :)


So I had previously set that up for the volume keys and it was working fine.  I realized after your post though that I hadn't tried it with the channel keys -- I had assumed that meant it was for the channel up and channel down button only.  


But... I reprogrammed it again (using option A1 to always send channel IR signals for a specific device no matter which device is currently selected) and it did change the channel up and down as expected, AND it also punched through the number keys!


So now, the remote is no longer sending out AT&T IR signals unless I've specifically picked the AT&T device button.  It looks like it is now sending out "standard" IR signals, so I'm able to program the number keys, channel up/down, play/stop/ff/rew, etc.  


I notice several keys that don't send anything at all except in AT&T mode (Back key, yellow/green/red keys), but I think I just need to program in a device that actually uses those buttons.  It may or may not be possible, but the majority of the keys work at this point.


Thanks for all your help - If you aren't getting paid to do this, you should be! 



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I notice several keys that don't send anything at all except in AT&T mode (Back key, yellow/green/red keys), but I think I just need to program in a device that actually uses those buttons.  It may or may not be possible, but the majority of the keys work at this point.


Yes it probably depends on the device set up on the remote. The color buttons are probably usable for most TV mode devices but I think they should be usable for some other types too.

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