Eraf

The link that you posted is the same as the link that I posted, so yes, they're the same remote. :) So I had previously set that up for the volume keys and it was working fine. I realized after your post though that I hadn't tried it with the channel keys -- I had assumed that meant it was for the channel up and channel down button only. But... I reprogrammed it again (using option A1 to always send channel IR signals for a specific device no matter which device is currently selected) and it did change the channel up and down as expected, AND it also punched through the number keys! So now, the remote is no longer sending out AT&T IR signals unless I've specifically picked the AT&T device button. It looks like it is now sending out "standard" IR signals, so I'm able to program the number keys, channel up/down, play/stop/ff/rew, etc. I notice several keys that don't send anything at all except in AT&T mode (Back key, yellow/green/red keys), but I think I just need to program in a device that actually uses those buttons. It may or may not be possible, but the majority of the keys work at this point. Thanks for all your help - If you aren't getting paid to do this, you should be! Eraf

The remote actually supports a lot of different devices. I've tried a couple and can successfully program buttons like play/stop/ff/rewind/etc. http://www.att.com/support_media/images/pdf/uverse/standard_black_remote_control_uverse.pdf The buttons causing the most problems are the number buttons. Whenever I press one of those, the AT&T device light flashes no matter which device is actually selected. That tells me that those buttons probably are "hard-coded" to send AT&T IR codes only. Pressing other buttons like play and rewind flash the active device light as expected. I'm not sure why Flirc would have a problem with AT&T-specific IR codes, unless those are really out of Flirc's frequency range. I'd be willing to send an IR signal capture if someone could tell me how to do it. Thanks for the feedback!

Found some more info that might be relevant. It's from 2009 though. http://www.cepro.com/community/viewthread/281/ "This is indicitive of a new wave of issues with IR repeating systems. The AT&T;U’verse box uses a new IR code structure call RC-MM from Philips. The MM stands for Multi-Media. This codes contains more information than previous IR codes like NEC codes most maufacturers use. This code structure contains more information and is faster. This RC-MM not only contains more information but the sensor in the cable box doesn’t allow for as much error in the codes as with previous IR codes. http://www.sbprojects.com/knowledge/ir/rcmm.htm <—- is a link for more information on Philips RC-MM codes" Going to the SB Projects website, I found this: Features 12 bits or 24 bits per message Pulse position coding, sending 2 bits per IR pulse Carrier frequency of 36kHz Message time ranges from 3.5 to 6.5 ms, depending on data content Repetition time 28 ms (36 messages per second) Manufacturer Philips Is this info any use in troubleshooting?

Figured I'd post the AT&T U-verse lircd.conf file that I found, just in case it has some useful troubleshooting info. Note: It's from 2009 so not sure if it is actually for the S10-S4 model that I have. # # this config file was automatically generated # using lirc-0.8.6(default) on Sun Dec 20 14:45:21 2009 # # contributed by # # brand: ATT # model no. of remote control: U-Verse # devices being controlled by this remote: # begin remote name ATT_U-Verse bits 16 flags SPACE_ENC|CONST_LENGTH eps 30 aeps 256 header 525 384 one 238 896 zero 238 471 ptrail 256 gap 96002 toggle_bit_mask 0x20 begin codes KEY_EPG 0x50DA # Was: KEY_GUIDE KEY_OK 0x58DE KEY_CHANNELUP 0x5854 KEY_CHANNELDOWN 0x50D5 KEY_UP 0x5856 KEY_DOWN 0x50D7 KEY_LEFT 0x505F KEY_RIGHT 0x58DF KEY_MENU 0x585E KEY_0 0x50D0 KEY_1 0x5851 KEY_2 0x58D1 KEY_3 0x5051 KEY_4 0x58D0 KEY_5 0x5053 KEY_6 0x50D1 KEY_7 0x5853 KEY_8 0x58D2 KEY_9 0x5852 KEY_DELETE 0x58DF KEY_ZOOM 0x585D KEY_A 0x58D6 KEY_B 0x5857 KEY_C 0x58DB KEY_EXIT 0x585E # Was: KEY_EXIT_TO KEY_INFO 0x58D3 KEY_BACK 0x5859 X_KEY_GO_INTERACTIVE 0x58DF X_KEY_VOD 0x585C # Was: KEY_VOD X_KEY_RECORDED_TV 0x58DA # Was: KEY_RECORDED_TV KEY_AGAIN 0x585A KEY_FORWARD 0x58DA KEY_STOP 0x5854 KEY_PAUSE 0x50D4 KEY_PLAY 0x5856 KEY_RECORD 0x58D7 KEY_REWIND 0x5856 KEY_FASTFORWARD 0x50D6 X_KEY_TV_VIDEO 0x505E KEY_POWER 0x58D2 end codes end remote

Thanks for the technical info, it's good to know. What's the best way to capture the raw IR data? Is there any way to do that using the Flirc itself? As a last resort, since I'm not using the remotes at this point anyway, I'd be willing to send Jason the remote. But is it feasible to send the remote or are we talking major shipping fees for a $5 remote control? Thanks - Eraf

AT&T U-verse S10-S4 remote -- Has anyone gotten this remote to work with Flirc? I've searched the forums and google and haven't found any solutions. It would be great if the remotes did work with Flirc as they have quite a few buttons, have a good layout for PVR, and they're pretty cheap to buy on eBay. Right now, I've got 2 Flirc's and 2 remotes and using different pairings came to the conclusion that Flirc doesn't understand the U-verse remote IR signals. Which kinda surprises me since I thought Flirc was IR protocol independent -- basically it just sees an IR signal and associates that with a keypress. Maybe I'm wrong about that though... The symptoms are that programming a button ("1" for example) works, but then Flirc sees the same IR code for the button "3" and reports that it has already been programmed. I've only tried the number buttons so far. Multiple clearing configs, updating firmware, updating Flirc software, using both Windows and Linux Flirc software. Also tried setting the U-verse to "Media Center PC" button and still get the same symptoms. One strange thing I've noticed is that when I press the number buttons, the "AT&T" device button lights up instead of the "Aux" button which I had programmed for "Media Center PC". That seems to be telling me that the number buttons are "hard-coded" to send AT&T IR signals, presumably for their AT&T U-verse boxes. If there are any Flirc settings to try, let me know. I think I've tried them all but I'm willing to try again. Also, I found an old AT&T u-verse lircd.conf file so maybe that will help figure out why Flirc can't "read" the IR signal being sent by the remote? Thanks, Eraf