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Posts posted by yawor

  1. Do you have Flirc v2? The metal one? If yes, please go to File -> Device log and enable IR debug. Then press some keys on the remote and save resulting output to file. Please post that file here. This will help Flirc support more protocols. Please do this before the next step.

    IR signals sent by LG smart remote depends on the equipment make and model configured in the TV for the selected input source. Please try changing the configuration to use different model or even maker. The one you're using right now is probably not yet compatible with Flirc.

  2. Please download the attached zip file and unpack it in one of the following directories, depending on your OS. If the path doesn't exist, you need to create missing directories.

    • Windows: C:/Users/<your user name>/AppData/Local/Flirc/keyboards
    • OS X: /Users/<your user name>/Library/Preferences/Flirc/keyboards
    • Linux: /home/<your user name>/.config/Flirc/keyboards

    These are standard paths. If you've customised your OS by changing your home directory location, they may be different.

    After unpacking the file, restart the Flirc GUI. You should see a Numeric keypad in the Controllers menu.


    • Thanks 2
  3. You can display all programmed keys using a command line tool. It's been installed together with the GUI. It's called flirc_util. What OS are you using?

    Regarding the numpad, I'll try to prepare a "plugin" version of it over the weekend.

    • Like 1
  4. You're complicating things too much for yourself.

    First of all, current firmware of Flirc v2 by default should wake your PC when you press any remote button it knows (any you've recorded previously in the GUI or one of the built-in profiles). Or you can record a WAKE key using the Full Keyboard controller in the GUI, which will cause that only remote button associated with the WAKE key is going to wake your PC.

    Second, on the Media Keys controllers in the GUI, you have a Wake/Suspend key. Using this key you can make your PC go to sleep.

  5. @TVAddict it's a matter of the IR protocol used by specific setup code (or code set). Different protocols have different rules regarding the signal repeat. Some use a full frame repeat where the same frame is being repeated all the time, others use different start frame and then some repeat pattern (like the NEC1/NEC2 ditto frame).

    Flirc should work properly with any protocol using full frame repeat, if the repeated frame is the same as the starting frame (this isn't always the case). It also has support for NEC1/NEC2 repeat.

    It would be helpful if you could do what @jason has asked about anyway. If you can, go back to your previous setup on the remote, enable IR logging in Flirc and post here your log files. We will analyse the signals and there's a chance that a support for that protocol could be added in the future.

  6. I've been looking at pictures of that LianLi case. There's indeed no good place on the front face to modify. But I see that it has a lot of perforated surfaces on the side and top of the case for the air flow. Flirc's receiver is really sensitive. It's a good chance that if you mount it to the case's right wall where the perforation is, with the IR receiver's lenses pointing outside, it's going to be enough to work properly. No need for IR window. Just make sure to put some isolation on the PCB as there are some soldering points, so it doesn't short out when it touches the metal case.

  7. URC-6440 is an universal remote. This means you need to configure the remote first before it's able to send any signals. This also means that you can select from a multitude of different remote configurations to select one which works best with Flirc. For example, I'm using a setup code for a Samsung TV (uses NECx2 protocol), which works perfectly with Flirc.

    You can configure the remote without connecting it to your computer, using manual setup procedure (it's described in the remote's manual). But you can also connect it to your PC (using a standard micro USB cable) and configure it using a RemoteMaster software. If you decide to go that route, you can ask me for help in a private message (configuring a remote is not in scope of this forum).

  8. Be advised that any changes you do to the Flirc's board you do at your own risk, they void warranty and may lead to irreversible damage to the unit.

    I'm not 100% sure (@jason should know exactly) but I think it's only soldered. The receiver is not just a photo-diode or photo-transistor. It's an integrated circuit containing an IR signal demodulator. I've never seen a demodulating receiver in a classic LED form package.

    You can look here what are the available packages: http://www.vishay.com/ir-receiver-modules/. I think the current one is a Heimdall type for 38 kHz, but I'm not able to tell you which part number exactly. I think the Minimold type would be best match to what you want. They should be electrically compatible (Heimdall has 4 pins, but 2 of them are just ground). You still need one for 38 kHz, but I'm not able to tell you which part number you should use.

  9. OK, here's my analysis. Both remotes seem to be using the same protocol. That's why both remotes behave in the same way. The protocol is XMP, which is really strange one. It can generate even three different signals per each key: repeat frame is different from first frame and the remote can send additional frame on key release which is also different than both previous ones. The timings of the signal are really short and there are different gap times between the frames.

    Unfortunately all this makes it really hard to implement support for this protocol :(.

    18 hours ago, tgiannak said:

    i was excited at first because its the best remote i have ever seen with lights on the buttons but then....

    Have you seen the URC-6440 (or OneForAll Simple 4) remote? It has backlit keys and feels quite good in the hand. It's fully programmable and you can download an open source RemoteMaster software (from hifi-remote.com/forums) which supports that remote and allows you to program it down to a single key function. Another option would be a Nevo C2 remote, which is quite a beast and also has backlit keys and is also supported by RemoteMaster. I have both and I like both. I'm using the Nevo as my daily driver now.

  10. I assume that you're using MCE profile on your Harmony remote. There are two solutions:

    1. Like raymondjpg has done, disable built-in Microsoft WMC profile in the Advanced options in the GUI. This means the MCE profile on your remote won't work out of the box anymore. You need to use the GUI and record all your buttons to the functions you want. Because of how the MCE protocol works, every other press of the button the signal differs a little, causing Flirc to see it as a different button. So you need to record every button two times with the same function selection (for example, select volume up, press vol+ on the remote, then select volume up once again and again press the vol+ on the remote).

    2. Don't use MCE profile. Either use one of Harmony flirc profiles (like flirc/wmc or flirc/kodi) which are supported out of the box (check if they are enabled in Advanced settings) or use some other profile, for example for LG, Samsung or Panasonic TV (whichever you don't have physically) and record your keys using GUI (no double recording needed). I recommend some Samsung TV profile if you don't have Samsung TV - I'm using an universal remote set to one and it works with Flirc beautifully.

  11. Did you install an extender for your URC-6440? It's an extension for remote's firmware. It's really easy to install it on this remote and it adds a lot of cool features like long button press support or shifted keys. You can create macros without extending the remote, but with extender they are much more fun. The only downside of macros is the fact, that the macro is not a sequence of functions but a sequence of buttons, so you first need to have a function attached to the button before you can use it. With extender, you can attach extra functions to shifted and double shifted keys and use them inside your macros. Also the extender triples the number of devices and activities (from 4 to 12 devices, from 2 to 6 activities - thanks to shifting and double shifting).

  12. As I've mentioned in my previous reply, there are no macros (or key sequences) yet. You can only record a key with optional modifiers (shift, ctrl etc). At this moment you can't assign more than one key to a single remote button. This is going to be implemented but there's no specific ETA on when it may be available.

    You can mix controllers in any way you want. Controllers are just sets of different keys and the selected controller is not being stored anywhere on the device. Only key info (key hid code + modifiers) and hash generated from the remote's IR signal are saved into the flash.

    Regarding flirc_util record, you can use it to record any single character key (like a letter, digit, some non-alphanumeric symbols that are available on the keyboard like !@#$) and also you can use some keywords like return, escape, tab, space, F1-F12, etc. I can retrieve full list of supported names but not right now. In addition to record command you also have record_api one. This one takes a modifier value (sum of modifier values) and a HID key code. You can look up the HID codes for example on this page: http://www.freebsddiary.org/APC/usb_hid_usages.php. Scroll down to table number 7 named Keyboard. The codes there are hexadecimal so you need to convert them to decimal for record_api to work correctly. If you run the record_api command without arguments it'll show you how to use it.

    You can also use first 255 HID codes (code values from 1 to 255 - some are undefined) from table 12 (Consumer). To do that you put the HID code as the first argument (as the modifier) and a value 102 as the key code (it's a marker value which means that you want to use Consumer table).

    Regarding RMIR and macros on URC-6440, I think this is not really in scope of this forum. If you want to discuss on that matter send me a private message. I don't use URC-6440 as my daily driver anymore as I've switched to Nevo C2 (also RMIR supported), but I still have it and I can give you some tips.

  13. I would stick with NEC2 or NECx2. Maybe they're not the fastest but it's well defined and Flirc doesn't have any problems with them. Also there's really no advantage from a faster protocol because Flirc key repeat rate is not affected by the amount of frames sent over a specified time span. It detects repeating frames and tells the operating system that the key is being held. It's up to the system to define the keyboard repetition rate and delay.

  14. You would need to remove the IR receiver from the board. But it probably won't work that way, because the receiver on Flirc's board is a demodulating one. It takes an IR signal modulated with carrier frequency of around 38 kHz and demodulates it into serial binary data stream. Your IR emitters are probably fed using a modulated signal so if you connected it directly to the Flirc's microprocessor then the firmware wouldn't know what to do with the modulated signal.

    You would need to demodulate the signal first but it's be probably hard to get a separate IR demodulator (without the optics part) which would be electrically compatible with the one Flirc uses.

    Also I wouldn't recommend placing an IR emitter directly on the Flirc as its receiver is really sensitive and the signal could be too strong. This may cause poor performance.

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