yawor
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Posts posted by yawor
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I notice several keys that don't send anything at all except in AT&T mode (Back key, yellow/green/red keys), but I think I just need to program in a device that actually uses those buttons. It may or may not be possible, but the majority of the keys work at this point.
Yes it probably depends on the device set up on the remote. The color buttons are probably usable for most TV mode devices but I think they should be usable for some other types too.
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I really can't understand what exactly have you tried already.
What I would do though is set the Harmony to some device like Samsung, LG or Panasonic TV (depending on which you don't have so there is no interference with your TV) and then use GUI to manually record remote buttons to keys that are used in MCE. You don't have to use Windows Media controller in the GUI, you can also use Keyboard controller - you can also mix any of them. If you can't find a key you need on Windows Media controller then just switch to Keyboard one and record a key combination you need there. That way you can customize remote button functions whatever you want.
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If you can control Keynote with a keyboard then you should be able to control it with Flirc.
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Hi,
Unless someone actually hooks up the the Chrome keyboard to a normal PC with some USB capture/analysis software installed and analyze what exactly the keyboard sends to the ChromeBox/Book there is not much we can do. Also Flirc doesn't support sending two keys simultaneously unless one of them is a modifier key (shift, ctrl, alt, win). There is a possibility that the Chrome keyboard actually doesn't send the two keys to the host system but the keyboard controller recognizes the key combination and sends something totally different to the host (still, not much can be done without analyzing USB traffic).
BTW it's Flirc, not flirq :).
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Hmm I think there might be a possibility to reconfigure the channel buttons. I've found a setup guide for AT&T u-verse standard remote so I don't know if this is your model but it may also work.
http://www.att.com/support_media/images/pdf/uverse/standard_black_remote_control_uverse.pdf
Look at Advanced Features Setup, point A. It describes how to switch modes for volume and channel keys. You probably want option A2.
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If that remote were UEI/URC/OFA produced then there could be a way to disable the "punch through" option for numeric keys. I've been trying to find what is the manufacturer for the remote but I couldn't find any info, but it probably isn't UEI because I couldn't find an info about this remote at http://hifi-remote.com/forumseither.
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Hi,
Have you recorded the buttons for MCE yourself in the GUI or are you trying to use built-in profile for XBMC/Kodi and Flirc/XBMC profile in Harmony?
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Hi,
Basically Flirc is an infrared signal receiver and acts as an USB keyboard.
If you use IR remote control and have a device which can be controller by USB keyboard then it SHOULD work, but there is always some risk that it won't. It works with PC/Mac based systems and some embedded devices like AndroidTV, FireTV, Raspberry Pi etc. There are also known problems with some devices like ChromeBooks/Boxes (in developer mode or something, where you can switch OS at boot).
I don't have a slightest idea about your hardware, but I know that Zwave is an RF protocol and Flirc won't see the signal by itself as it is a totally different EM spectrum range.
If you still think that Flirc can somehow help you achieve what you want please describe in more details how you would want to use it in your system. We will see if there is even a slight possibility that it would work.
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You would need IR receiver that sends RAW IR data to the PC for analysis (like IR Widget). Flirc unfortunately can't do that.
When you record the buttons do you point the remote directly at Flirc? What is the distance from the remote to the Flirc when recoding? Flirc is very sensitive and doesn't like when the remote is too close to it when recording. You should record from some distance (it depends on the power of IR emitting diode in the remote) or point the remote in different direction (for example at the ceiling) so the signal doesn't hit the Flirc directly. It probably won't help but it's worth a try.
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Hi,
The "56 kHz problem" is a hardware problem, not software one. The IR receiver is tuned to 38 kHz and works best with frequencies around that one (36 - 40 kHz should work very well).
I think the only way to find out if specific remotes are using 56 kHz is to search for this specific model specifications or ask on forums that deal with MCE specifically.
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Unless the FireTV implemented some keyboard combination to do the restart I don't think that this is possible. You can hook up an USB keyboard to the FireTV and test different key combinations. Maybe one of them will result in reset.
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The carrier frequency should be within range (I think 38 kHz is optimal, but 36 kHz is still OK) but it seems that the message is more compressed into the IR signal - at least based on the info that RC-MM contains more info and is transmitted faster than NEC. Maybe this is a problem. Maybe the Media Center mode also uses this new protocol.
Does this remote have ability to set it to control other devices like TV or DVR?
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@FelixFlutsch:
If you want to change how Kodi reacts to some keys in specific context (like playing a video) then you need to change that in the Kodi itself:
http://kodi.wiki/view/Keymapshttp://kodi.wiki/view/Keyboard_controls
Basically you need to create a keyboard.xml file in the Kodi userdata directory with mappings you want to override.
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Hi.
We are currently experiencing technical problems with the forum system, that's why you're not able to upload a file right now.
Do you have "sequence modifiers" checked in advanced options? Try changing this option and then check if the context menu started working.
As for the context dependent keys there is not much Flirc can do as it is not aware what is currently going on in the host system. All it knows is IR signal hash and key combination assigned to it that it needs to send when the correct IR signal is received. If the Media Center have different combinations for skip buttons depending on the current mode then I would say that's a really poor software design on the Microsoft part. The only thing you could do is to sacrifice some two buttons on the remote to use as skip buttons for the TV mode.
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Yes, Flirc is protocol independent but that doesn't mean that it is able to work with any protocol. Unfortunately some protocols are harder to work with than the others and not all work in the 38kHz base frequency range to which Flirc is tuned. The way Flirc works is that it create a "hash" of IR signal using some algorithm. Some protocols may have some signal part changing even when pressing the same button (for example Windows Media Center remotes using RC-6 protocol do that) resulting in different hash every second key press (thus requiring to record each button at least two times).
On the other side some signals may create the same hash value as others. It hard for me to guess what may be the reason as I don't know the actual algorithm used in Flirc. The best would be to somehow capture RAW IR data from the remote and send it to Jason for analysis. Otherwise Jason has to buy exact same remote himself to do some tests so it may take some time to find out why this remote behaves badly with Flirc.
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Whiznot this is not a good idea. You would need to glue together multiple layers because cans are made from really thin sheet of metal. This aluminum-glue "sandwich" would probably be no better than a foam thermal pad. It would be best to find a sheet of copper of proper thickness. I don't know how thick it would need to be because I don't have the case nor RPi2 myself yet to do some measures. It would be best if the sheet is thick enough that it actually touches the CPU so you can use some good thermal paste (for example silver based like Silver Arctic 5) between the CPU and the copper pad.
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This is really strange. If this is an universal remote then the problem should disappear when you change to different setup code. Have you tried other codes besides the Panasonic DVD one?
Can you try finding a remote model name/number? Maybe post some images of the remote. If this remote is made by UEI/URC then there may be an option to hook it up to PC and modify the programming.
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Hi,
I'm sorry but I don't understand what exactly you want Flirc to do in this mode. Can you describe your idea in more details?
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To be honest I didn't know that Raspbian had thd installed by default either. Good job connecting everything. If you have time please post some more details on the setup you've came up with - it may be helpful if someone comes here with similar question :).
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It should work. As with every other universal remote you'll need to find a device code that works best with Flirc and have all the keys on the remote usable. I think this is doable but may require some patience.
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The problem with a thicker thermal pad is that it loses a lot of effectiveness, and starts to become more of an insulator then a conductor of heat.
Thermal pads don't actually help transfer heat amazingly well, the best solution would be two perfectly flat pieces of metal touching directly, but that's not possible, so we use thermal pads/paste.
I think that it's still a better conductor than the air itself :). I think that gluing (using a thermal conductive glue of course) a thin flat piece of copper on the heat sink post may be doable. Then replace thermal pad with some good thermal paste like Silver Arctic 5.
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Hi,
This is more of a OS-level issue than Flirc one. I think you would get more answers from Squeezeslave/lite community. I don't even know how those daemons can be controlled remotely. Does they have a TCP or Unix socket open that allows to receive commands? Is there some CLI command that is able to send commands to the daemon?
You may want to look at triggerhappy daemon. It has ability to capture input events and execute scripts/binaries assigned to specific key combinations. That way you can separate the issue from the Flirc/keyboard input itself and work out a way to control your daemons :rolleyes: with some scripting.
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The power button on the XBMC controller is for exiting the XMBC itself. It has nothing to do with the PC power on/off.
Do you have suspend detection enabled in Advanced settings? It may be required in firmware 3.5 as in that version Flirc disables the power button when PC is powered on. Have you already tried upgrading to 3.6?
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It seems my HTPC correctly shut's down to the S5 state. The front USB port still is under current (tested with an bluetooth stick having an LED on it). I also have configued the power button using the GUI (not the flirc_util CLI tool). But still no luck. When I am on bash and I hit the power button on the remote the console returns "äääää", which tells me it receives some IR-code. But still no startup possible. Any other ideas?
Where did you find a power button in the GUI? From what I can tell there is still no power button for Flirc-SE available in the GUI. You NEED to record a power button using flirc_util in CLI.
BTW: Where can I download the latest beta version of the firmware? I would prefer to upgrade via flirc_util, as my HTPC has no keyboard attached to it :-)
It is available in the Development section of the forum: http://forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/forum/93-firmware-30/
Currently there's no way to upgrade from CLI. You need to run Flirc GUI somewhere. It doesn't need to be on the HTPC :). Just plug the Flirc to another PC and upgrade it. You also can program it on another PC and then you don't even need to have Flirc software installed on HTPC.
HDMI CEC vs. Flirc USB connection lag in Raspberry Pi 2 model.
in General Questions
Posted
I think your TV is the cause of the CEC lag. I've been testing Kodi on RPi 1 with my LG TV and there was no lag at all when controlling over CEC. I also don't see any lag using Flirc and I like it much more than using CEC because it gives you ability use much more buttons on the remote and also you can customize controls almost anyway you want (there are some things that Flirc can't do yet like different functions for button long press).