yawor
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Posts posted by yawor
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Sorry about that. I'm only helping here on the forum in my free time. Jason - the single person behind the Flirc - is lately busy all the time and it's not that hard to miss some threads on the forum.
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There are two different things hiding under the term "long press".
One thing is a long press to repeat and this is supported. As long as you hold a button on the remote Flirc should simulate holding a keyboard key (or combo) pressed. That is why you can use arrow keys on the remote to quickly browse a list just by holding the key. As Flirc works as a keyboard, you can use key repeat settings in the OS to optimize it for yourself.
Second thing is support for two or more functions per remote button depending on how long you hold the button. Right now this is not supported by Flirc itself.
As for the setup codes I won't be able to help you with that as I don't have Inteset remote and can't test any codes myself. My remote uses different codes (and most remote models have model specific code books). Just test some top brands like Samsung, LG, Sony etc. I've been using LG remote with Flirc without any problems.
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There's no way to "unpair" a remote from the device it's dedicated for. But you can try using some tape and cover the IR receiver in the Xbox One.
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If the remote is using a base frequency too far away from 38kHz then it may cause problems because the receiver-demodulator module won't get a whole signal properly. Even if Flirc could just pass data from the remote (after demodulation) you wouldn't get much from it as you would still probably get the same data due to frequency mismatch.
The 38kHz is the most popular frequency used in consumer grade IR remote controls. Unfortunately some MCE remotes use different frequencies and those can cause problems with Flirc.
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Sorry, I haven't noticed that something bad happened with the link to the other thread. It's corrected now.
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Do these keys support long press on the remote themselves (e.g. the remote can send codes for different functions on short and long presses)? If yes, then you should be able to do that, if not then Flirc itself won't be enough as it doesn't support assigning something else to long press of a button. In the latter case you could use some automation software to extend Flirc's operation. I used to be using EventGhost to do that, but there's also AHK (AutoHotKey). I'm not using it anymore as my remote has modified firmware and allows me to use both shifted keys and long press keys on almost any key on the remote so I can triple or even quadruple the number of keys on it.
If you decide to use some automation software I can fully recommend EventGhost as you can achieve fairly advanced functionality by defining action trees and it's all in the GUI. For example you can use a plugin that recognize what software is running in focus and enable only an action tree branch with actions for this software and disable others. That way you can reuse the keys on the remote to control any software, not only Kodi. There's also an action for long press so it passes through the control to next action if it's a short press but if it's a long one then it redirects to the action of your choosing.
On the other hand AHK uses a scripting language so it can be even more advanced, but you need to program your logic yourself.
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If you can do that from a standard USB keyboard then you should be able to do it with Flirc.
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I think this is once again the issue with a keyboard layout different than US QWERTY. @fencingcoach you probably have the < and > on different keys on your physical keyboard than in the GUI. Just look at your keyboard how to write them manually (what keys you need to press to get them). In the GUI don't look at symbols on virtual keyboard but at what position they are (which key row and order in a row) and record that key or key combination.
If you still don't understand and don't know what to do then please tell me what keyboard layout you have selected in the OS.
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I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work. In latest firmware versions any recorded key will wake the PC by default (if the dedicated wake key is not recorded). Flirc ignores any signal which is not recorded using the Flirc software.
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Yes, I also agree that the sentence "Use any remote with your media center" should be changed (for example by adding "almost" as in "Use almost any ...") or annotated by some explanation below. Unfortunately this is not possible (or at least very hard to do because of hardware restrictions) to create a receiver which truly works with any remote because there are so many variables and different control schemes that a single receiver module is simply not enough.
Toshiba might be using some proprietary protocol or use a carrier frequency too far away from 38kHz supported by current Flirc hardware and this may be confusing either hardware decoding module or firmware running on the device.
What firmware version is running on your Flirc? Have you tried upgrading it? There were a lot of changes between 2.x and 3.x firmware series.
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Yes, you can do that. After you program one Flirc with the remote you want to use just save config from it and load it into the second one. If the software and configuration is the same on both devices it'll work. Of course it's important how far apart are both rooms because Flirc is very sensitive and can catch signals from the other room if they are close to each other (sharing the same wall with doors between them).
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You need to first open the command prompt shell using cmd or powershell. Press Win + R and enter one of them and confirm using enter. Then you need to change directory to Flirc install dir. You should be able to enter the above commands then.
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The power button control is not part of built-in profiles and Harmony Flirc profile. You need to program it yourself. I don't know how to do that in Harmony (you need to use some key as a power button for the profile) as I don't have a Harmony. In Flirc you need to use command line utility flirc_util to program the power button:
flirc_util.exe record power
Also you should probably check and upgrade if needed the firmware in your Flirc-SE to the latest RC version available here on the Development forum.
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Just ignore the missing driver. It's only required for programming. If you don't need to program it on the Windows 2012 R2 then the missing driver shouldn't be a problem.
For normal operations Flirc acts as a USB keyboard so if you are able to use USB keyboard on the system then you should also be able to use Flirc for remote control.
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After a quick look on what people say on the Internet I can't be sure whether the new AppleTV 4 remote uses IR or bluetooth for remote control. It seems that it has the IR blaster built-in but no one is sure what the remote is using it for (as the main mode is probably to use bluetooth).
There are a lot of other nice remotes that are nowhere near that price tag you've mentioned. Just look at this one http://www.bestbuy.com/site/one-for-all-4-device-universal-remote-black/1731147.p?id=1219061847546&skuId=1731147 for example.
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I don't think you can use XBOne remote to control both XBOne and Flirc-equipped PC/device at the same time. Also I'm not really sure XBOne remote is a good choice for using with Flirc anyway - you need to search the forum to see if someone is already using one or if there are any problems with them working together.
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Hi,
Yes, Flirc works with any OS without need for extra drivers, but this is true only for normal operation (receiving IR signal and execute keyboard button presses). For programming Flirc you still need drivers and compatible OS. I don't know if it's possible for Jason to provide drivers for Windows 2012 R2. Have you tried installing latest Flirc software?
If installing Flirc software doesn't help then one thing you can do right now is to program Flirc on different PC with proper driver support (Win7, Win8, Win10, Linux, OS X) and then connect it back to the one with Windows 2012 (just ignore the missing driver).
Also Flirc is not an MCE receiver. It won't work with MCE remote out of the box. You need to program it using Flirc software by recording button presses on the remote and assigning a keyboard keys to them.
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This is a Windows issue. I've stumbled upon it several times myself. For some reason the HID keyboard filter driver is not being properly attached to the device and the keystroke events are not being properly propagated as keyboard events.
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Flirc doesn't have IR sending functionality and it's not something that can be added by software as it doesn't have hardware required for that.
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Please try plugging Flirc to a different USB port.
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This isn't really related to Flirc in anyway but the subject is exciting :) so I'll point you in some directions.
First of all I would like to recommend to you this forum: http://hifi-remote.com/forums/
I've learned a lot from there and I also helped reverse engineering one of the remotes (OneForAll URC-6440). There's a group of people there who are maintaining a lot of cool software. One of the programs available on the forum is the RemoteMaster which has been written to be able to configure remotes produced by UEI. These remotes are known as JP1 remotes. A lot of there remotes have a learn function and RemoteMaster is able to retrieve the learned signal data from them.
I don't know if this is universal for all the learning remotes or not but in the case of UEI/OFA remotes the learned signal is saved as a demodulated raw data. AFAIK the remote doesn't do a protocol guessing and decoding. That logic is included in the RemoteMaster tough and it can guess from the raw data the protocol used and decode it (as long as it is a known protocol). For example from raw data it can guess that the signal uses X protocol with Device ID Y and Subdevice ID Z and shows you the exact button code. You can use this data to prepare a device upgrade yourself - a device upgrade is a configuration block that describes a remote for a particular device, it contains info about the protocol, dev id, subdev id, list of available button functions and assignment of functions to each physical button on the remote.
I've used this to learn buttons from my LG Soundbar's remote (URC-6440 has been able to control the Soundbar but not all the buttons worked). I've then write down all the button codes from the original remote and I also started checking all the other codes if there are some other working codes that are not available on the original remote. For example I've found a discrete On and Off codes or discrete Source selection buttons. Having all that info I've created my own device upgrade for the Soundbar.
BTW sending random button codes to the device (assuming other parameters are set up properly) can be dangerous. I've also found some service functions (LG service probably has a service remote which these buttons). My Soundbar has a wireless subwoofer and by checking all the codes I've managed to disconnect the subwoofer from the main device and normal pairing procedure couldn't help. I don't even know how exactly I've restored it to working state as I've just started pressing more of the service buttons :P.
BTW2 you can also use a simple IR receiver called Igor: http://www.cesko.host.sk/girderplugin.htm. For it to work you also need a COM port (can be an USB-COM adapter). It just sends the demodulated RAW signal to the computer over serial port. You need some software to catch it on the other end and also some software that can guess IR protocol.
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Hi,
There's no such product and it's not that easy to make such a modification. First of all the IR receiver package used on the Flirc board is not a simple IR sensing photo-diode. It is an IR demodulator module integrated with photo-diodes. It outputs demodulated data to the micro-controller. I'm 99% sure that your automation equipment is sending a modulated signal over the wires instead of demodulated ones. You can't just feed such a signal into Flirc's micro-controller. You would also need to replace the demodulator module with one that allows feeding from external source.
There was such discussion few days ago and I've given some more information there. But don't get your hopes up because there's a lot to take into consideration and you need some background in electronics and SMD soldering to get it done.
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Hi,
If you use your TV's remote then there's no way to define when you're controlling Kodi and when your TV. For example when you're watching TV and press buttons on the remote then your Kodi will also react in the background. You can for example start playing a movie by accident or even delete something or change some settings.
When using Kodi then your TV will also receive the signal and some keys might cause some pop ups on the TV you probably don't want.
Long story short, I think using such setup is just asking for troubles.
If you don't want to have separate remotes for Kodi and TV then maybe you should look for some universal remote.
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I don't know much about Harmony (I don't own one) and LIRC, but if you already have the setup with LIRC then can't you just record and decode what is already sent from the remote? There are applications which can detect protocol used and it's parameters from the raw signal data.
I'll ask Jason if it's possible for him to disclose info on the details of the protocol.
Wake up doesn't work
in General Questions
Posted
Hi,
Can you check if you can wake your PC with a normal keyboard?