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Posts posted by Ingoping

  1. There appears to be a few bugs in the FLIRC software.

    • Not correctly registered in Windows 10 version 1909 build 18363.535.
      • THe fcfg file type isn't recognized and Save Configuration doesn't work until this is solved.
        • look for File type .fcfg and FLIRC is listed, but not active
        • open the File type and save it
        • File type is now registered.
    • FLIRC will not save the Configuration from a Type 1 FLIRC device.
      • I have an OLD Type 1 FLIRC attached to an Amazon FireTV Box. The controller is a Bang&Olfusen Avant 55 Television with internal IR ports and configuration files (PUCs). This has worked for several years.I wanted to finally swap to the Type 2 device that has been laying around since DEC 2016. In the past the Save and restore didn't function, so I threw the FLIRC type 2 in a drawer for the last 3 years. New configuration software, new luck. Unfortunately no change.
      • If saved the Typ1 Configuration and restored it on a Type 2 Device nothing works as previously defined. There was no reaction at all from the B&O Controller. Swapped the Type 1 back to the Amazon Fire TV and all worked as previously set-up and defined.

    Can anyone provide assistance to Save and restore that works. The documentation is not up to date and I'm lost, but hoping the Configuration can be moved from one device type to the other.


    After activating the FLIRC Software in Windows 10 the Saved Configuration File was finally saved and appeared in the windows UI. Previously the UI showed all saved, but nothing was found. The file was invisible on my desktop, Download directory or Temp directory. Since there is no way of seeing key definitions, I'll pass the saved file on. Can anyone explain what isn't working and provide a solution?

    my_flirc_configV1.fcfg my_flirc_configV2_loaded_fromV1.fcfg

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, xcvb1 said:

    @Steve: now it works... not all keys, though....

    Didn't realize that the PS button doesn't work and all these X, O, triangle buttons, etc....

    But otherwise it works!

    Sorry for asking all these stupid things! Just a FLIRC beginner!

    Any idea for the the PS button , etc...?



    Use other buttons Red, Blue, green, yellow or play, fast forward, reverse or options. You'll have to play to get a good mix. Play with the inter-key delay setting as well as stated above. I'm not sure where my inter-key delay setting landed at. Ensure you have the newest PUC installed

    Again program ALL buttons yourself otherwise the connection will operate erratically. FLIRC has pre-settings, but these are translated by the PUC and it is a catch-as catch-can situation if you use the default FLIRC button settings. If you post your E-mail I'll forward the Documentation I sent to B&O Technicians in München. I'll have to translate it from German ;-)

  3. 1 hour ago, xcvb1 said:

    @Steve: thanks a lot!

    What I have done so far: switched on B&O TV, PUC downloaded (PS4 IR Dongle), connected the IR eye of the B&O Avant to the FLIRC, plugged it into the computer, programmed the keys on the Beoremote one. All keys were successfully recorded. Plugged in the FLIRC with the IR eye into PS4. Just doesn't react at all on PS4. Looks like that PS4 is not recognising the FlIRC.

    When I open an editor on the computer, at least the "enter" button is working... so, some keys are programmed to the FLIRC.

    Any idea?


    Ensure you delete and program ALL buttons yourself. THE B&O PUC is the translator so the Defaults provided from FLIRC don't necessarily work. 

  4. On 6/4/2015 at 5:36 PM, jason said:

    I think it's the remote profile. Since that's a universal remote, can you change to a panasonic or samsung remote to control flirc?

    If I change my controller the Speakers, Lights, Shutters, B&O IR port, DVD on the HDMI port and the Amazon Fire box only partially work if at all.

    I could just use the Bluetooth controller to operate the Amazon device. For aesthetic reasons I only have one Remote controller that came from B&O and not a pile of such laying around.

  5. On 2/24/2016 at 12:05 AM, Hostler said:


    Does anyone have experience getting a B&O Beo4 remote to control an Amazon fireTV box?

    I've trained the Flirc in my PC, but when inserted into the Amazon box, control via the Beo4 is erratic - working sometimes, but more often not, and when it does in an inconsistent way. Even list scrolling is erratic and often results in unexpected elections.

    I've updated firmware, erased configs and started over several times.

    This is all via line-of-sight from the Beo4 to the Amazon box, i've not yet routed the PUC eye to the Flirc, as I plan to do when I hide the Amazon box from sight.

    I've rwad some accounts that the Flirc finds B&O signals herd to read/replicate, but those threads are old and based on much older firmware. I've also heard B&O users on B&O forums having great success with Flirc controlling Amazon boxes. Those experience suggested reducing the interlay delay to 0, but I get the same issue. Indeed when programming the Flirc, I often get the "Key already assigned" errors which suggest overrun signals from the remote.

    Does anyone have any direct experience they could share or observations?

    My setup is a Amazon fireTV box (the newer 4K one), Flirc dongle with latest firmware applied, and a Beo4 remote controlling a Beovision11

    Many thanks



    mine works fine for years. little help here. I gave the set-up information and documentation I wrote to Denmark. see the following thread.

    BeoVision 11 only will work if IR cable is attached andthe Amazon Fire  PUC is available in the television


  6. On 6/4/2015 at 1:20 PM, Chris! said:

    It's been a while since i've been the forum but I thought there was a similar issue that had a solution. Unfortunately I couldn't find that.


    If you open a text editor (or anything you can type text in):

    - when you press "2" on your remote what key is outputted on the screen?

    - when you press "5" on your remote what key is outputted on the screen?


    Just to check what key Flirc thinks already exists.


    After you upgraded, did you clear the configuration before reprogramming?


    nothing is shown on the screen. The B&O Controller is attached with software to an IR output

  7. On 6/4/2015 at 5:36 PM, jason said:

    I think it's the remote profile. Since that's a universal remote, can you change to a panasonic or samsung remote to control flirc?

    B&O remote is far from panasonic or universal remote. It is IR and radio communications simultaneously. Thus the controller can't be correctly copied into a "Universal" controller. THe controller is in itself programmable and controls everything imaginable using PUC Apps (Programmable universal connector) plug-ins. The PUC is the attached to a device within the television, for example IR port 4 (9 pin ethernet plug with an IR eye on the end and is completely controlled by the television.


    Go by an B&O store and look at the controller. made from CNC cut aluminum, polished. 

  8. 15 hours ago, xcvb1 said:

     Even the topic is years ago : can you still provide me with the documentary ?

    I try to connect a Beoremote one with a PS4 !

    thanks a lot !



    The Flirc is stuck into the USB port on the programming PC then must be attached to the IR port using the IR-adapter within the B&O Television. This is glued to the FLIRC.

    Process is and should work. I have a B&O Avant 55

    start the programming software from FLIRC

    set the FLIRC software to PS4 controller

    load the PS4 PUC app on the B&O television setup the connection to the appropriate IR Port out,  delete the content of all buttons within FLIRC using the PC

    start by select the button on the PC to program and press the appropriate button on the B&O Controller (the information is received by the television and using the PS4 app connector transferred out the IR port -> cable to the IR input from FLIRC.

    Continue until all buttons are programmed using the B&O controller and PC software.


  9. Bang&Olufsen Avant 55 TV problem mostly solved:

    In the meantime I have FLIRC working on Amazon FireTV Box together with the B&O Avant 55 Television. The problem was that the Amazon FireTV Box has no IR interface so the FLIRC was chosen. Only the Amazon FireTV Box has a USB Interface and recognizes the FLIRC. This is not possible using the Amazon FireTV STICK.

    To understand this Connection, the Bang&Olufsen Avant 55 TV is used as a Proxy. There is no direct communications between the Remote and FLIRC. The B&O Remote communicates directly with the TV and B&O Avant has an internal Set top box with 4 IR Interfaces. A PUC (Programmable User Connection)  is loaded from the B&O Internet site for the appropriate device and Logically attached to one of the IR Interfaces. There are masses of such available and devices the already have IR Interfaces pose no problems. This activates the IR Interface. The B&O PUC for the Amazon FireTV is worthless, but activates the IR Interface. Now glue the IR onto the FLIRC and attach it to your PC. Load the FLIRC Software and Reduce the Inter-Key Delay to 0. The B&O signal is interpreted multiple times if this isn't done and the TV reacts accordingly.

    Program the Amazon FireTV using the B&O Remote, then attach the FLIRC to the Amazon FireTV Box. Some buttons are pre-defined and can't be changed. red dot, EPG are the Home buttons, you'll have to live with this. The B&O PUC requires changes. It really doesn't bother anything.

    In the meantime Bang & Olufsen are requesting information from myself for this connection. Ther presently offered method doesn't allow the FireTV BX to be hidden in the back of the TV.

    Major drawback is repeat scrolling. due to the reduced Inter-Key value it isn't available. If I gain interest, I might test it. If someone requests, I have a small Documentation available that I sent To B&O in Denmark.

  10. Hi Jason,


    The B&O RemoteOne is not Universal in the means you probally are thinking. It has no Profile it communicates directly with the Television.


    The Remote Communicates with the Bang&Olufsen Avant55 TV and the Signals are traslated into IR Signals by the TV using an Internal SetTop Box Controller. In the SetTop Box Controller are 6 Intercaces the accept IR Cables with small IR LEDs on the end of the cable.




    Attach the Amazon Fire TV Box to the Bang&Olufsen Avant55


    Install the B&O PUC Software from the Internet that activates the IR Interface in the TV


    I must then attach the FLIRC to the PC start the FLIRC Software.


    Pull the IR Interface cable attached to the B&O Interface, out of the TV and paste it on the FLIRC


    Now Program the FLIRC using the B&O RemoteOne that communicates with the TV, this in turn translates the Communication actions into IR output on the SetTop Box Controller


    The Remote doesn't directly communicate with FLIRC ist uses the TV as a Translation Proxy


    Remove the FLIRC from the PC and stick it on the USB interface of the Amazon Fire TV Box


    Restart Box


    Test the Buttons


    As Stated B&O is B&O. To see this in opeartion you'll have to go to a B&O Showroom.  :o

    Due to this Problem with the Amazon Box, B&O propagates using the Apple TV Interface. Apple ist Paste the IR on, load the PUC and it works. Amazon doesn't have an IR Interface it uses Bluetooth, so FLIRC is the answer.


    This doesn't chage the FLIRC Programming UI problems. As stated the situation improved when I reduced the Inter-Key Delay is to 0.  I read somting aout this setting so tried it out. It Reduced the Crashability factor


    Perhap I'll get brave and try changing setting this upwards.


    Never play with a running system, or if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

  11. It's probably just me but could you rephrase the question?

    Not sure what capabilities you want.


    Decreasing the inter-key delay value will tell flirc to wait less time before deciding the button was let go. This results in flirc responding more every time you press a button.


    Hi Chris, It is very possible that I'm the Problem. Wouldn't be the First time.


    Test showed using the B&O remote that when the STD. Inter-Key Delay is set to 5, the Select Key using the B&O RemoteOne didn't work, but all others did. When the Inter-Key Delay is set to 0, the Fastforward works, but you can't hold it down to get additional FastForward speed that the Film Player in the Amazon Fire TV offers. It was a comprimise. I had a choice of no selection or frustrating Fastforward. 


    The B&O Remote is a very strange Beast. It uses Frequency and IR to control devices. It intercommunicates with the TV and in some cases, uses both communication chanels. The PUC are Software Interfaces for the SetTopBox IR interfaces built into the Avant55 that can be loaded across the Internet. In most cases the Plugged in Device is recognized and you are asked if the PUC is correct. If not select one of hundreds available.



    Changes from the default are shown in bold print.



    Global action

    B&O PUC Virtual keyboard



    Directional pad:

    §  Up

    §  Down

    §  Right

    §  Left

    Directional pad:

    §  Up

    §  Down

    §  Right

    §  Left








    Context menu



    Fast forward













    The request is to perform an Error/Pop-up free Configuration for the Amazon Fire TV using the GO option that doesn't bug in the middle or force me to manually erase each key and Program such seperately do to Key already Set, or other such pop-ups.



    Press Go to Configure

    Pop-up -> all data will be deleted

    Delete all Key Data

    Query individual keys



    Not Wished is:

    Scenario One

    1. Select Amazon Fire TV
    2. Use all Standard settings
    3. Start Config with GO
    4. Button automatically selected and Push Remote key to define.
    5. This continues for 2, 3, or perhaps 5 Keys and then
    6. [Key already defined] Abort, redo, or what ever the options were and this in an endless loop.so off to the Cancel and try again.

    Abort one

    Forced to quit, delete each key information and retry with GO


    Scenario one starts again and quits this tim on the Second Key.

    Return to Abort One or with luck make it to the end and only half of the Bottons work


    Start endless loop until Frustrated

    1. Delete individual Button manually
    2. Program Button
    3. Continue to next button
    4. recieve similar results other Pop-up with two options.



    Scenario Two; (Worked with limitations)

    1. Advanced-> reduce the Inter-Key Delay is to 0,
    2. Delete individual Button manually
    3. Program Button
    4. Continue to next button
    5. Finish last Button
    6. Plug into Amazon Fire TV and test B&O RemoteOne. The FF frustration exists, but the Select works.


    I've deleted the Configuartion reloaded the Firmware and the Random quit on some button continues.


    I'm going to assume the developers won't happen to have a Bang&Olufsen RemoteOne or BEO4 remote control or an Avant55 available to test with?


    Any tips are appreciated.


    Did i manage to place the clearly??

  12. Using the FLIRC Configuration as a Amazon Fire TV I continously hit a Hard stop. The Configuration when started with GO always hits randomly a Key already Configured situation. I can' continue, redo or any thing. The Workaround is to manually delete the configuration, erase every Key manualy, which is the same Problem. Key already erased. Then program one key afer another. If the above situation starts, erase the Key Manually and try again.


    After long Experements, deleting, reconfiguring each Key manually, I managed to get all kes working and Recognized


    Do to the capabilities of the Bang&Olufsen RemoteOne the Inter-Key Delay needs to be set to 0





    Windows 8 Enterprise

    Bang&Olufsen Avant55

    Amazon Fire TV PUC 

    IR Cable connection Interface

    Amazon Fire TV BOX present Firmware.

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