I'll explain what I'm trying to do. I want Activity A to be "my receiver as a hub". My receiver has a lot of devices plugged into it, so for Activity A I want the TV to use HDMI 2, and my number pad chooses the inputs on the receiver. For each number, I want to have 2 actions:

TV - Input HDMI 2
Receiver - Input # (where # is the number pressed)

The problem is that the TV's Input HDMI 1 can only be assigned to 3 buttons. After that, I can't drag it to any more numbers.

Why do I want it to work this way? Because there are other activities where my TV is not on HDMI 2, like when I'm using the TV tuner to watch things over the air, or when I use HDMI 1 for my PC. So no matter what inputs are currently set to, I want to hit A and then a number and have the TV set to HDMI 1 and the Receiver to that input number. I'm trying to use the macro actions to minimize the buttons I have to press to switch all these inputs.

If someone has a better approach that they've configured their Skip 1s for, I'm all ears.

Oh and maybe a more textured back, the present one is a bit too slippery for me. 

So I am a little confused on how I should be able to switch from activity. Just pressing A or B when pressing B or A first, does not switch the activity.

Works:

• Skip app detects button presses.
• I can add devices/remotes.
• Config sync to the Skip 1s completes without errors.

Doesn’t work:

• Skip 1s doesn’t control any devices (TV/AVR/etc.), even at close range.
• FLIRC USB (which sees other remotes fine) receives no signal at all from the Skip 1s.
• All remote tests during setup fail; I never get a response from any device.

Tests performed:

1. Phone camera IR check

   • Tried both front and rear cameras.
   • Pointed at the Skip 1s IR LED area, pressed various buttons.
   • See no IR flashes from the Skip 1s, while other remotes are clearly visible on the same phone.

2. FLIRC USB

   • FLIRC USB on PC detects IR from other remotes without issue.
   • When aiming Skip 1s at FLIRC and pressing buttons, no signal is detected.
   • Tried multiple activities, buttons, and re-synced the config.

3. Simple config sanity check

   • Created a minimal profile with a common TV brand, mapped Power/Volume, synced.
   • Still: no device control, no visible IR on camera, no IR seen by FLIRC USB.

Given:

• Other remotes’ IR is visible on my phone and detected by FLIRC,
• The Skip 1s shows no IR output at all (camera + FLIRC),

I suspect a hardware fault in the IR transmitter or its driver.

• Any additional firmware/reset steps? (It updated automatically when first plugged in.)
• Any diagnostics mode or LED behavior to check?
• Any known issues with IR output on certain units?

System details:

• Skip 1s: brand new, received today
• Firmware: 4.14.1-0-gdea1347
• Skip app: SkipApp-0.9.995.10457-Beta-x64
• OS: Windows 11

Thanks for any guidance. I just want to confirm I’m not missing anything obvious before sending it back.

I have an original Skip 1 from the pre-order days and I seem to be running into battery issues plenty of other users have run into. These issues have been happening since purchase.
My rechargeable batteries last anywhere from 5 days to 10 days tops.
I waited for a long time for a firmware update that would fix it but there doesn't seem to be any in a long time now and it doesn't seem to be clear if there will be another firmware update, though I also only sometimes check the forums so unsure of that. I do see that Jason is still an active member of the community so that's nice to see! 

This post also mentions firmware issues with a potential firmware fix but the link for 4.12.28 seems to be down

Remote Model: Release A05
Firmware: 4.12.12
Skip App: 0.9.993
Windows 10 (ESU enabled)

P.S. Minus the battery issue, it's a 10/10 remote. The weight, feel, ability to control media center with 1 remote, etc.

Help would be appreciated.

Two different Apple computers--two different USBC Cables--400 MBPS internet

Firmware updated--same result

SkipApp 0.9.995.10457 

When clicking record to customize buttons a pop up comes up that reads " need internet- can't connect to servers--check internet. See attached screen shot.

Without this I cannot program the Skip 1 effectively as Hisense TVs as well as some soundbars seem to have problems without using the custom "record" for buttons.  

thanks

I have a TCL L19A10HD. I tried all the TCL models preprogrammed in the Skip, but nothing works. I can see the IR led is working.

I have added the Admin console, but don't know how to proceed.

I found this https://gist.github.com/DDRBoxman/c68b68e41a47338496ba8cbd1bb5d20e

But don't understand what to do.

Any help would be appreciated

Thank you

I have a second (newer) Skip 1s that I have started using & it doesn't seem to have this problem. Skip_No2.skip (attached) is the export from this newer remote.

I have even tried Resetting Skip1's settings and applying the working Skip_No2.skip configuration but I can still see Skip1 throwing extra commands & causing chaos when changing Activities.

Is frustrating... Any ideas?

Skip_No1_(still.problems).skip Skip_No2_(from.newer.remote).skip

Current Firmware Version:4.12.6

Skip App: 0.9.995

Windows: 11

The remote is working but I would like to update to current firmware version to use the recording function etc..

No firmware update show  when plugged in normally.

No firmware update showing when in DFU mode.

I have installed the the Skip driver as recommended in another thread. 

I have downloaded the firmware bin file.

I have the the Admin mode activated but there is no firmware update tab on there.

How should I proceed?

Thanks,

Jim

(I remapped the record button to send power down signals as a workaround)

Edit: I tried on Windows 11 (Pro, 23H2, up to date) and the same thing happens. It sees the remote is connected but doesn't see any existing activities. This is pretty frustrating. Would sure be nice to get a response from Flirc.

Most of the functions are working properly, but I would like to also add some custom keyboard key presses to certain buttons on the remote.

It was mentioned on a post from last year that:
"Presumably, every Flirc profile on the Skip App will include all 104/5 keys in the button list. We just won't use most of them in the default setup"

Although it seems that this statement didn't turn out to be true, at least for the Kodi device.

How do I add a full keyboard mapping to my activity so that I can drag some keyboard keypresses over to the remote buttons?

But this is bullshit. Why do I need to be connected to a server to use this feature? 

One day this server will not be maintained, and the remotes we purchased will become less and less useful.

There needs to be an opt-out on this.

Thank you

If I test the button from within the Skip app, everything is OK, the receiver get's a code. However not when I press the power button.

Anybody got a clue?

Everything is brand new, got it 2 days ago.

Remote model: Skip.1s.Release.06, firmware: 4.13.9-0-g114437a, app: skip-app_0.9.995+10457, linux

The A/B/C activity switching buttons seem perfect for this 3 machine scenario I want to use it with, but I’m at a loss with how pairing works here. 
 

EDIT: I’ve been reminded the remote works via IR, but I didn’t know if different codes/command setups could be assigned to different receivers regardless. 
 

thanks!

Any suggestions would be helpful, I can install Linux or create a VM of Windows 10 if needed.

Thanks! 

As I’ve been fine-tuning my Skip 1s configurations and mapping custom activities, one of my main goals has been minimizing the perceived latency between a button press and the action on screen. In a complex home theater setup, even a few milliseconds of delay can make the user interface feel "sluggish."

To test the responsiveness of my overall system (including the remote's signal processing and the receiver's lag), I’ve started using a high-precision, physics-based "Video Game Entity" as a tactile benchmark. The tool I use is Slice Master.

While it may seem like a simple web game, Slice Master is incredibly sensitive to input-to-render lag. The game requires you to time the flip of a blade with millisecond precision. I’ve found that by attempting a few rounds using my Skip 1s (mapped as a keyboard/mouse input) versus a standard wired controller, I can clearly "feel" the latency differences in my current setup.

If there is any jitter in the IR-to-Bluetooth conversion or the TV’s game mode processing, it becomes impossible to maintain a high score in Slice Master. It’s a great way to verify that your Flirc configuration is as snappy as possible before you sit down for a movie night.

Has anyone else used high-speed, physics-driven web simulations like Slice Master to "stress test" the responsiveness of their custom remote mappings? I’m curious if you have other interactive methods to ensure your Skip 1s is performing with zero perceived lag!

Best regards,

I'm running the latest version of the app and drivers and Windows 11 is fully up-to-date.

Any ideas? 

Cheers