Any suggestions would be helpful, I can install Linux or create a VM of Windows 10 if needed.

Just recently, the batteries having been draining much faster than I'd expect; unlike some of the other threads on battery drain, I'm seeing a set of alkaline batteries drain in a month (instead of in a day) - but I was previously getting at least 6 months (probably a year or more) out of them. And this is with very light levels of usage.

Last time this happened, I took some notes:

- On 10 March 2026, I upgraded to firmware 4.14.1 and replaced the batteries with new alkaline ones (as the previous set had died after about a month);

- By 28 March 2026, the batteries are dead - I see no background lights on the top A/B/C buttons after pressing them.

What can I do to help diagnose and resolve this issue?

The Skip 1s Universal Remote Control - Flirc

I've tried both Chrome and Edge.

Has anyone got a download link for Windows that works?

I have an appletv/ Sony TV/ Denon receiver/ Xbox

I set up on A the AppleTV/Sony TV/Denon.

I set up on B the TV/ Xbox/ Denon AVR

I added the input button on each activity button section.

"A" works as planned as long as I don't ever change an input.

"B" does nothing. I turn off everything on A and hit B and hit power..It turns on the TV nothing else. 

How do I set it up to switch inputs when I move to a different activity?

How do I set up be for the commands to get the AVR to switch to the correct input?

I Hope you are Well.

My HTPC Crashed requiring a Full Re-Install of Windows 11.

When I Installed the Latest Skip App, obviously the Remote is not present.

Is it possible to Transfer the Configuration from the Skip 1s Remote into the Skip App, or am I going to have to Setup from Scratch, hopefully not.

Thanks in advance

Kevin

Since the Latest Update, which included the FW Update, when Starting an Activity, All Devices no longer Turn On the First Time.

For example, I have an Activity that uses the TV, AVR and Set Top Box, I Press 'A' and Power and the Set Top Box and AVR will Turn On but the TV will not, if I then Press the Power Button to Turn everything Off then Repeat the TV, Set Top Box and the AVR will all Turn On.

This is repeatable and happens on All Activities and always seems to be the TV that fails to Turn On the First Time the Activity is Started.

This issue was not present in the Previous Version.

Skip App: 0.9.994 

Firmware Version:  4.14.0.0

Also, are the Change Logs available somewhere?

Thanks in advance

Kevin

I have a skip 1s remote and 2 flirc USBs. 

My goal is to use Kodi on my pc as activity 1, and activity 3 as nvidia shield. I have mapped tv inputs to tv, and everything works OTHER THAN when I am using Kodi, my skip 1s commands are also triggering my nvidia shield. As in the dongle in the nvidia shield is executing my Kodi activity 1 commands. 

What am I doing wrong?

I've tried like 12 different device profiles are my skip 1s and then painfully re taught the nvidia commands each time hoping one of these random. Devices will send a different ir command that the nvidia won't pick up. I can't figure it out. 

I have been setting up my Flirc Skip remote & while most of the buttons work fine, I’ve noticed that long-press commands aren’t being recognized properly. For example; I tried mapping a long press for volume control and input switching, but the remote only registers a single press instead of holding the command. This happens across multiple devices, so I don’t think it’s just an issue with my TV or receiver.

I have checked the Flirc software settings; ensured the firmware is up to date, and even tried reprogramming the buttons with different delay settings, but no luck. Some users mention adjusting IR repeat settings or modifying the key mapping manually, but I’m not sure where to start troubleshooting. Could this be a firmware limitation / is there a workaround to get long-press functionality working consistently? Checked 

Has anyone else experienced this? Are there specific Salesforce Admin settings in the Flirc configuration tool that can fix this issue? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you !!

I attempted to just add the remote and program the button, but when I do so, I get a generic error that something went wrong and can't add the buttons manually.... any ideas?

Here is the error I am getting:

I created a written review of the Skip1s remote from Flirc. Overall, I’m satisfied with my purchase. I like that every button is fully configurable and an online account isn’t required to access the code database (looking at you, Logitech & Sofabaton). The desktop app has the most issues and I hope the developers can keep improving that over time.

https://lookanotherblog.com/flirc-skip-1s-review/

I recieved today my new Skip remote. Starting to pull my hair out after 5 hours of troubleshooting.

I've tried on 3 different Windows devices (2x Windows 11 and a Windows 10) - same issue:  I download the Windows Software, and it installs, but when I run the setup routine and plug in the remote via USB, it wont recognise anything. (although I can see that Windows sees the device in Device Manager).

I read here in the Forum that there is a workaround by exporting a profile (CBOR) from the Config Software and then uploading the profiles using a seperate custom tool so I tested this, but I run into further problem:

 The profile updater/injection tool (for lack of a better word)  comes up with an error saying "Device in Bootloader" and prevents me from clicking SYNC.

My questions:

1. Are there any other workarounds? (I can't find them in the forum)
2. Am I doing something wrong?
3. Even if I get this working, how am I meant to record inputs from other remotes (this feature requires that the software recognises the Skip remote via usb).

Currently, I can't do anything with the remote.

Any help would be appreciated.

Edit;

I have just borrowed a friend's Apple laptop and I wasn't able to open the app, the DMG just crashes...

Edit 2.0:

Just adding (having read the many other posts); I do not have Steam installed, nor any logitech software, so those issues don't exist on my side.

Edit 3.0:

I'm beginning to think this remote was bricked from the get go...  As soon as I put the batteries in the remote when I took it out of the packaging the red lights blinked 3 times... I had originally thought this was normal behaviour, but looking at videos online, other people's remotes made many colours..

I also see that Windows says it is stuck in "DFU Mode" - does that mean there is no firmware on my remote??

I am trying to download a firmware updater on this forum but all links are broken (!)..

Some help from somebody would be appreciated.


 

app opens and functions but will not see my remote

using usbview i can see the remote is plugged in and seen by the system just not the app

flirc20241129.log

- Play/pause - how to deal with remotes with two codes (e.g. long press idea).

- Expanding the colour wheel, to include more keys.

Given the post linked below, I think some details as to the focus on development, especially given how long we have waited on these improvements.  With any new product they bring issues (they always do), so it is a natural concern that Skip1s will at best just get minimal support now and it could get worse.

For someone with their units still in boxes from kickstarter, and these first 2 show stopping issues, I feel let down and not sure how I feel about hearing about this in a random one liner not even in the Skip forums.

So some simple yes/no answers would be useful at this point considering how long some of us have waited, and we need to understand the impact of a new product - do you now have new staff dedicated to this job, or is it eating into the development/update time on the Skip1s.
 

Would it be possible to update the Skip to the latest firmware from linux? F.ex. by using tools like dfu-util?

Unfortunately I don't have access to Windows or Mac and can't run the provided update tool.

br,
kmm

However, when I then come to press that on the actual remote to fire those actions it doesn't do anything (well it lights up the ring with my remotes colour but doesn't trigger the actions)?

Are you supposed to be able to assign actions to the colour button>central button and them work?

I recently purchased a Flirc to control my media center:, and I am having trouble getting it to work properly with my remote. I have followed the setup guide step-by-step, installed the Flirc software,,, and updated the firmware; but for some reason, Flirc isn't detecting some of the remote's buttons.

Here’s what I have tried so far ::-

• Resetting and reconfiguring the remote keys in the Flirc software.
• Ensuring the remote uses an IR signal (it’s a standard TV remote).
• Plugged Flirc into different USB ports to rule out any connection issues.
• Verified that my OS (Windows 10) recognizes the device correctly in the Device Manager.

Despite all this;, certain buttons still aren’t being picked up, even after reprogramming multiple times. Could it be a signal strength issue or maybe interference with other devices: ?? Has anyone else experienced this,,, or have suggestions on how to fix it: ??

I also read this thread https://forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/topic/11180-remotes-not-detected-by-any-cissp-computer/ and ofcourse it helped me but now I am looking for more help and tips.

I would appreciate any advice from those who’ve dealt with similar issues.

Thanks in advance!

Sharp TOKYO FM HI-FI MICRO SYSTEM XL-B514.json

Most new Skip 1s users have probably had extensive experiences with a programmable remotes, like the Logitech (or another brand) and where looking to replace those. Hence the Skip 1s. In this relatively young form I've already found several users having trouble with changing Activities, as did I. Changing an activity from A to B or C should also be able to change the HDMI input on your TV as well as changing the power states of used/unused devices, without using the Top Power button.

When pressing buttons A B C, the most basic function they should perform is changing those parameters. Given your users past experience, it's also what they expect those programmable button can do. There should be no workarounds necessary, as I've seen posted. That's not intuitive at all. An experienced may be able to use that, but imagine what the WAF would be like.

So, I'll ask the developers directly; Will, in the very near future, the ABC buttons be made programmable to do that and not just via the Power button?

Some other issues I've encountered:

• When my Windows PC or my Laptop resumes from a sleep state, the remote remains disconnected. Reinserting the USB cable makes no difference. You'll need to restart the software again.
• When creating a new activity by choosing a default one and then renaming it, the textbox looses focus if you'll enter a space.
• I'm using a Nvidia Shield. Why is there a limited number of programmable options? There's no (context)menu button for instance and what does 'Shield' do?
• Maybe enable the option to hide the tips window (Seasoned users would have known all its features after a while)
• For those who don't, re-enable the tooltip as to what the 4dot menu in the buttons panel section does (as seen on previous video's)

We've been happily using the remote for a couple months now and it's honestly been great. 

Unfortunately, as the title says, I've run into a problem and can't seem to troubleshoot my way out of it.

We just purchased a new tuner box and I wanted to add it to the remote. Since the box wasn't on the list, it needed to be added like our projector. Not a problem, except the record button was greyed out on the app.

I haven't updated the software since I got the remote - so I decided install the latest beta.

The record button was still greyed out, and I wasn't prompted to update the software - so I followed the linked instructions.

That didn't work, so I tried the manual firmware update.  I looked away from the updater after starting it, and it said disconnected, so I figured it was done. 

Unfortunately, I forgot to put the batteries back in before running the updater.

I'm not sure if that caused the problem, but since then I have not been able to connect to the remote. 

Connecting it to a computer does not show that a device is connected - i have tried two windows computers and a linux machine.  I have tried a couple different USB cables. Nothing doing.

With batteries in the light blinks red three times when a button is pushed.

When plugged into the computer without batteries, the light blinks red three times when a button is pushed. But the computer shows no indication that a device has been connected.

Did I fry something inside, or is it stuck in some weird bootloop?

Thanks in advance for your help. 

Dan

Pros:

• Build quality
  • The remote feels amazing, there aren't any too sharp corners, the buttons are stable, and they have a nice satisfying click. The USB C port is tight and works with a variety of cables without clearance issues.
• Speed
  • The remote is super responsive, no lag unlike my harmony. I can press the arrow 5 times in a row and it won't start falling behind or reject other inputs.
• Pronto HEX support
  • I had very little problems adding unsupported devices manually using Pronto hex codes (on a working system)

These things alone make this the remote that I want to leave next to my TV, but getting to the point where this was an option was a huge undertaking.

Cons:

• Windows and Linux
  • The software was clearly designed with MacOS in mind. On 2 separate machines I had many issues getting the Skip App to work properly.
  • On my main desktop, under windows, I installed the software and driver with no issues, but I was completely unable to communicate with the remote in the Skip App. I tried with Linux, and the Linux software was able to communicate, but failed to actually send any information. I later found out that this is because Firmware updates are only available on Windows and MacOS.
  • On a second Windows machine, I was having trouble installing the application. I needed to manually install the msix using PowerShell as Admin to get the installation to complete. Once the install completed, I had no issues using the software to flash the firmware.
  • On my M1 Mac, I had no issues at all. Everything went smoothly.
• Flirc USB Integration
  • I bought the bundle with the Flirc USB thinking that the integration would be smoother than trying to use a WMCE receiver. However, I quickly realized that aside from the few built in profiles, there is no obvious way to add custom bindings. I wanted to add custom bindings for ESC, Alt+F4, i, j, J, and other keys to the many buttons on my remote.
  • With my harmony and WMCE, I was able to just set the bindings with the Harmony and the WMCE had no problems interpreting the codes. For the Flirc, I had to add a bogus device to my activity, then use the Flirc software to bind those bogus codes to my necessary keys.
• Key holding
  • The previous section led me to find this issue. Since I had used the codes for a Motorola STB, I was unable to hold the arrow or enter key. I tried setting the Flirc software to hold mode, however the receiver wasn't receiving any hold signal. My solution was to add both the STB and the Flirc Kodi as 2 separate devices, then leave the Flirc Kodi as the arrow+enter keys, and the rest of the keys dedicated to the STB.
  • This led me to the issue of the enter key double clicking. There is about a 50% chance that when I press the enter key, it will double click. I don't have this issue on any of the keys that I bound via the STB, like the play/pause button on top. I would imagine this is some sort of de bounce or reflection issue with the IR signal, but I haven't debugged it.
• Default activities don't make sense
  • As an example, I will make a new activity with an LG TV (Code Group 1), a Yamaha Soundbar (YAS Series), and a Flirc Kodi.
  • 
  • The default power activity does not wake the PC (?), uses a Toggle for the TV power when there are already Discrete codes available in the database, and does not turn the soundbar on at all.
  • Any time I add a new device to an activity, these defaults overwrite my handmade one.
• General bugs
  • The software has way too many drawn out animations. If I do actions too quickly before animations finish, the software starts bugging out and the transitions render me unable to click anything or to close and restart the process I was in. On machines without GPU Acceleration (like a VM), the Skip App is completely unusable.
  • The Linux version doubles up any actions that I drag to the remote.
• Forums
  • I understand that you guys are running a very small shop, and I'm sure that this isn't an easy project for you to be working on. However, I find the amount of questions that remain unanswered or with no conclusion astounding.
  • There are even scam links being posted in different sections of the forum for almost a month now that haven't been removed.
  • Plenty of useful and important information is scattered all around the forums with no conclusive location to see all of it. An example of this is the fact that the firmware cannot be flashed on Linux, or that the Logitech LampArray service can cause issues and should be disabled, or even where the latest version of tools like SkipUpdate can be found.

I really like this device, and I really want to see it succeed, but I also hope that the issues that I have outlined above will actually be fixed, because otherwise I find it very difficult to recommend that anyone actually buy one of these remotes unless they have a simple setup and a lot of time to kill.

I've read a ton of the feedback threads on this forum, and there seems to be general consensus around a few items, like the popular request for "smart" activity switching / being able to map functions to the activity switching keys, and complaints that the remote is IR-only and doesn't support RF/Wi-Fi/Bluetooth/whatever other nonsense your Harmony remote does or did.

That being said, in this thread, I want to focus more on stuff I haven't seen posted or posted very sparingly, that could feasibly be implemented on the remote with the hardware as it currently exists, and then later my wish list for a gen 2/3 remote.

Context: My home is a mix of Home Assistant and Q-SYS. Home Assistant exposes my hodgepodge of "smart" home devices to the Apple Home app for consistency, and Q-SYS is a DSP / AV router for all of my AV equipment with some custom scripting for complicated stuff (Q-SYS can also be thought of as an enterprise-type control system similar to Crestron in a lot of ways).

Current Remote:

• Flirc USB Profiles: I was very surprised that adding the Flirc USB as a device for the remote doesn't come with all of the pairing profiles the Flirc USB supports standard. Where is the full keyboard profile? Especially under the "PC" and "Misc" device categories in the Skip app which seem like they'd be a natural fit. As other users have mentioned, the workaround for using the keyboard profile is to add a bogus device to the activity you're creating, and then manually having the Flirc USB learn that device's IR commands and map it to whatever keyboard keys you want. This works, but it feels very hacky and really I don't understand why it's necessary.
   
• Color Button Usage: The color button/colored mode D-pad almost feels like an afterthought or just a reason to throw in some colors and make the product look "pretty." It doesn't feel very functional.
  • Expand The Effectiveness of the Color Button: It is very strange to me that the color button only gives the remote 4 additional buttons in the form of the arrow keys on the D-pad. In my opinion the color button would be way more useful if it was a mode switch button, similar to the existing activity buttons, a "sub-activity" or "secret menu" if you will. It should allow you to remap all of the keys under that color. A-Red "volume up" should do something different from A-Green, B-Red, C-Red, and A-colorless "volume up", etc. This would also go a long way to address the complaint I keep seeing that the remote doesn't support enough activities.
    
    Further, the Skip app currently suggests that the D-pad's "enter" button can be mapped in color mode, but in practice, the app allows you to do this, but then the remote doesn't do anything with that key. This seems like a bug and should be fixed- either removed in software, or implemented on the remote.
     
  • Caps Lock instead of Shift: Right now the color button changes the D-pad functionality for a few seconds, then reverts the D-pad back to normal. This is very annoying when you want to use the color mode D-pad for an extended time. We should at least have the option to make the color button function more like a caps lock key instead of an automatically timing out shift key. Press it once to change the color to red (with LED feedback around the enter button while in that color), twice to change to green, etc, until you eventually revert back to colorless/LED feedback turned off.

Tips for People Unsatisfied with IR Only:

• Build a Simple Hub: More advanced wireless "smart" home devices come with a hub device because the processing power required for some of these advanced features necessitates it, not to mention how impractical it would be to implement Wi-Fi on a triple-A battery powered remote. To move beyond IR with this remote, you'll need to implement your own hub of sorts. In my case, I bought a $35 Raspberry Pi 4 (and Flirc case of course), paired it with a Flirc USB, and stuck it in my entertainment center. The Raspberry Pi is programmed to wait for keyboard input, and then execute commands based on the received input. It allows me to use the Skip 1s to control my Q-SYS equipment (volume, mute, speaker routing changes) which is controlled via Ethernet, as well as change lighting scenes in my home. With the current hardware, I think it's the only solution if you need to control more than just IR devices. Although I don't think this is difficult, it may be too much for the average consumer.

Gen 2/3 Remote Wish List:

• Backlighting: My biggest gripe with this remote currently is that there is no backlighting. I read on this forum that that was an intentional choice to squeeze as much battery life out of the remote as possible, but I would argue it's the wrong choice. Multiple times I've watched a movie at night and couldn't see the buttons on the remote. Thankfully now I've mostly memorized the button positions, but in a future remote, I'd like...
   
• Rechargeable Batteries and a Charging Dock: Like in many other high-end remotes. The Crestron remote comes to mind. It would also be a beautiful way to display the remote on a coffee table. Bonus points if the dock is wireless. Bonus points if the entire backlight changes color to match the current "color mode" of the remote.
   
• A Flirc Hub for the Flirc Remote: Would go a long way to please the power users and Harmony people without requiring a huge time investment on their part. Maybe instead of bundling the remote with a Flirc USB, bundle with a Hub, which is essentially a SBC with integrated IR/RF receiver, and Ethernet.

I installed a raspberrypi 5 with LibreELEC + Skip 1s + Flirc USB. Skip 1s is configured to handle Kodi navigation and TV sound.

All is working great but I have a problem when I connect a bluetooth headset to the raspberry pi. I don't know how to configure Skip 1s in order to manage the bluetooth headset volume.

Can you provide me with some help.

Thanks a lot.