Cannibal Squirrel Posted January 18, 2023 Report Share Posted January 18, 2023 First I'd like to say thank you for the remote and all the work you guys a putting in to it. I've experience in product development and know the challenges all too well. The remote looks great and I really really really need to trash my old universal remote. It's too big, too many tiny buttons and needs to go. Got my Skip1s in yesterday but having trouble with my gear. Maybe you guys can point me in the right direction to get things working. Display I'm using is a Gigabyte Aorus FO48U OLED Gaming Monitor. (it's not a TV but a big PC monitor that comes with its own remote) (the remote is definitely IR, but cannot find any device codes to speak of anywhere online) For audio I'm using my old, now vintage, AIWA NSX-350M. (device codes can be easily searched online, but the Skip1s available AIWA models do not seem to work) Any help you guys can offer would be awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 Can you find the pronto codes for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannibal Squirrel Posted January 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2023 Difficult to readily acquire pronto codes, but used the flirc a bit. Willing to try any other IR learning software that might work/help, if you can suggest any. Looked into iLearn and iScrutinizer some, but doesn't seem to work with the flirc usb right off. Flirc IR debugging.rar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannibal Squirrel Posted January 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 I've updated to files with HEX codes. Hope this helps. Flirc IR debugging.rar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted January 29, 2023 Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 Thank you. Hang tight, I'm going to make this easier to add codes, but I have so much currently half done. You did the right thing, I recognize them as NEC codes. Give me some time, I'm trying to do a ton of updates at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannibal Squirrel Posted February 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2023 No doubt. Thank you. It's interesting diving into the codes a bit. I'm curious to know what you guys used to analyze signals during development? The monitor is NEC, but none of the group codes w/ 0.9.4 work. The stereo is AIWA codes but old. We're talking circa '93. Call me old fashioned but I like an analog aesthetic with audio. Can't beat simple L/R stereo system. Looking forward to the update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannibal Squirrel Posted February 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 SkipApp v0.9.6 remote firmware v4.12.10 Thanks for some fair improvements, but I'm still not working with my tv and stereo. Any ballpark eta? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 I couldn't get it in this release, but will get it in this week's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannibal Squirrel Posted March 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2023 Windows 10 Flirc GUI v3.26.5 Flirc USB gen2 firmware v4.9.61 and v4.9.6 9 (have two) SkipApp v0.9.66 and v0.9.68 SKIP.1S.RELEASE.A05 Skip remote firmware v4.12.11-7-g0113c71 irScrutinizer v2.4 Linux Flirc GUI 3.25.3 (installed) ---Issues 1. adding .txt file not working under Win10 SkipApp, only .json 2. codes obtained from above listed systems, software and firmware do not work 3. only old codes work, somewhat. they were captured back in January 2023 with: irScrutinizer 2.4 Flirc GUI Version v3.26.4 Flirc gen2 USB firmware v4.9.6 Operating System: Windows - Power On works but doubled like - (press once=power on/off)(press once again=power on/off)(holding button = power on/off, power on/off, power on/off...) -Mute is similar but- (quickly pressing button twice acts like toggle on, press twice again to toggle off) -Volume Up and Down seem to work okay ---Questions 1. Why do old codes work and not new ones, what is the difference ? 2. How do you properly implement Power Toggle vs discreet Power On/Off ? 3. How to properly implement Mute Toggle ? Thank you for any help and advice. not working.rar works kinda.rar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted March 10, 2023 Report Share Posted March 10, 2023 1 hour ago, Cannibal Squirrel said: Windows 10 Flirc GUI v3.26.5 Flirc USB gen2 firmware v4.9.61 and v4.9.6 9 (have two) SkipApp v0.9.66 and v0.9.68 SKIP.1S.RELEASE.A05 Skip remote firmware v4.12.11-7-g0113c71 irScrutinizer v2.4 Linux Flirc GUI 3.25.3 (installed) ---Issues 1. adding .txt file not working under Win10 SkipApp, only .json 2. codes obtained from above listed systems, software and firmware do not work 3. only old codes work, somewhat. they were captured back in January 2023 with: irScrutinizer 2.4 Flirc GUI Version v3.26.4 Flirc gen2 USB firmware v4.9.6 Operating System: Windows - Power On works but doubled like - (press once=power on/off)(press once again=power on/off)(holding button = power on/off, power on/off, power on/off...) -Mute is similar but- (quickly pressing button twice acts like toggle on, press twice again to toggle off) -Volume Up and Down seem to work okay ---Questions 1. Why do old codes work and not new ones, what is the difference ? 2. How do you properly implement Power Toggle vs discreet Power On/Off ? 3. How to properly implement Mute Toggle ? Thank you for any help and advice. not working.rar 3.44 kB · 0 downloads works kinda.rar 4.87 kB · 0 downloads Literally just doing this now, I had some trouble on inspection and am going to be going database/code crazy this week. Hang on, I'll have JSON for you to try in 5-10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted March 10, 2023 Report Share Posted March 10, 2023 Okay, try this one, I'm working on the other one. AIWA - NSX-350M.json I'll explain why things were not working correctly in a sec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution jason Posted March 10, 2023 Solution Report Share Posted March 10, 2023 Okay, try this one tooGigabyte - Aorus FO48U.json Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannibal Squirrel Posted March 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2023 You Rock!!! I have control!!! I also see that the signal needed a "lead out/end". Preesh good sir! +100000 points Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted March 11, 2023 Report Share Posted March 11, 2023 Yeah there were a couple issues. That lead out, I needed to add that, and then your JSON had a wrong format and our Schema checker did not catch it. (Just pushed an update to auto correct this). The Pronto codes are a comma delimited hex array. I think you had the comma in one, but not the other. The one that was missing was the one you said didn't really work anymore, however, at a glance, it looked correct. But because it was missing the comma, the binary got all messed up in firmware and I'm sure made the device act super ridiculous (I've done this before). So import now auto corrects this. What through me off was the was that one looked like regular NEC, but with basically better shorter timescale, so I needed to take some time to make sure I wasn't looking at it wrong. I'll include this in the next update as well and we are working on making it easier to get community additions. Thanks for letting me know it's working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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