yawor

Sorry. There's no pause feature. The keys in the macro are called sequentially as fast as possible. Regarding applying the modifiers to arbitrary keys when recording macro or long press, unfortunately there's currently no way to do that. The way these commands work right now, the modifier key is applied automatically when you record a sign which is achieved by using the modifier (so for example, if you run flirc_util record_macro A, then the util will translate this to shift + a).

Do I understand correctly, that you want to control other devices from HTPC with Flirc plugged in? If yes, then it's possible with Flirc v2 (the metal one) as it has IR blaster diode built-in. The command line tool flirc_util (you install it together with Flirc configuration software) has a send_ir_raw command, which takes raw IR data formatted as a series of comma-separated values (times in microseconds) and transmits the signal using the IR blaster LED in the Flirc. But you need to take some things into account: There IR LED is not very strong. It may require a direct line of sight between the Flirc's IR window side and the other hardware's IR receiver window. It may depend on the sensitivity of the receiver in the hardware you want to control. There's no built-in automation for transmitting. The Flirc's main focus is still on controlling the PC (or other USB Host hardware) to which the Flirc is connected. This means that you can't configure the IR signal to be automatically transmitted by the Flirc itself in response to a different IR signal. You need some kind of software or scripting on your HTPC, which will call the flirc_util command line with correct IR data. If you use Windows, then software like EventGhost or AutoHotKey should be able to do that. The IR control is prone to interference if more than one IR transmitter is sending control signals at the same time. For example, if you want Flirc to send a command to your TV when you press a button on your HTPC remote, then there's a high probability that both signals (from the Flirc and from the remote) will interfere with each other causing the TV not to recognise the signal from Flirc. This is the same situation as when you'd try to use two different remotes, pressing buttons on them at the same time. IR remote control doesn't have any mechanism for collision detection or avoidance. So to sum it up, it's possible, but the usability may vary depending on your needs and hardware.

Have you made any changes to the Android configuration in the meantime, like turning on the USB debugging for example? Flirc (or any USB device for that matter) won't work with USB debugging turned on.

Ah yes. You need an OTG Y-cable - it has a full USB Type-A socket and both MicroUSB plug and socket, so you can still connect the power supply.

You need to use an OTG cable to connect Flirc to your FireTV Stick. The OTG cable goes into the MicroUSB port on the FireTV stick and gives you a full USB Type-A socket. Be sure to buy an OTG cable which is compatible with the FireTV Stick (I don't know if they're all compatible or not).

OK, it's like I've said before. The signal you've recorded is using an RC6 protocol. It is an IR control protocol created by Philips. Actually Microsoft's MCE protocol is based on RC6 (it's in the same family). I've decoded the signal. It toggles between: - protocol = RC6, device = 0, obc = 10, misc = T=0 - protocol = RC6, device = 0, obc = 10, misc = T=1 As you can see the T param (from toggle) changes between 0 and 1. This causes the waveform of the signal to change slightly and it's recognised by Flirc as two different buttons. So either you need to use the setup code on your remote or find some non-RC6 remote to learn from. The brands I've mentioned before are a good candidate because there's a high possibility that they are using a NEC family protocol, which works really well with Flirc.

Open the Flirc GUI application and go to File menu and select Device Log. In the Log window, check "Enable IR Debugging". Then press few times the button on the remote that you're trying to set the macro on. Then disable the IR Debugging and save the log to file and post it here.

No, you record the same remote button twice. First time you need to use record with a key that you want as a 1st in a macro (for example F10). Then you do (for example) record_macro F11 and then press the same remote button as for the F10. The record_macro command adds another keyboard key on top of already recorded ones for the same remote button. BTW I usually differentiate between keyboard and remote like this:keys on the keyboard -> keys (or keyboard keys); keys on the remote -> buttons (or remote buttons). As for the remote setup, I'm not 100% sure as I don't have this model. I have few remotes from the UEI (a company behind the One For All brand) and they all share some features, but this one seems to be quite unusual. Anyway, according to the manual, the remote supports up to 3 physical devices and assigns buttons by color to these devices (third one is an audio device and overrides the volume buttons). You should read through the manual to fully understand what your remote is capable of. Setup codes set specific part of the remote, not just a single button. Even if you set your remote using the setup codes from the book, you can always overwrite specific buttons by recording a signal from another remote. Recorded signals take precedence before an original function.

I think it would be much better if you used a code entry method to set your remote. I've checked the quick setup guide for the URC-6810 and it is possible (it uses some keys as numbers when you enter a setup code). You should also have a code book included in the manual for the remote. If you don't have the manual, then it can be downloaded (together with the code book) from the OneForAll website. If you want to try this approach, then select an equipment brand you don't have any hardware from. For example, if you don't have anything from LG, then use codes for LG hardware. I'd suggest one of these: LG, Samsung, Panasonic. You can try multiple codes to find one that works best for you. Regarding the commands you've listed, using record command second time with the same remote button should exit with an error, that the button is already recorded. To create a macro, first use a record command like you've done, but then add another key to the macro using record_macro command.

OK, so what's the setup code for the device you're using for Flirc? Did you set it up as an MCE remote? The MCE protocol (and some others too) uses a toggle bit in the signal, which toggles on each key press. This means if you press the same button two times then each time the signal sent is going to be a little different. Flirc sees these signals as two different ones. So you actually didn't create a macro, but you've recorded F10 for one variant of the signal and F11 for the second one. I think the best approach would be to reconfigure your remote to use something else than MCE. Possibly something without a toggle bit. BTW are you using a RemoteMaster software to modify your remote's settings?

Hi, What remote are you using?

I can't tell you if what you want to do is possible or not, but I see an issue with the setup you'd like to have: If you could put it on the same button you use for your TV, then there's a risk that it'll desynchronise. If the signal won't reach one of the devices (for example the remote is held at an angle which would cause the signal not to reach ShieldTV/Flirc) and you only turn on your TV without waking the ShieldTV, then the next time you press the button you'd wake the ShieldTV but turn off the TV at the same time. But anyway, I'll repeat what I've said in my earlier post: just don't turn off your Shield TV at all. Leave it woken up. Using sleep mode doesn't affect your power consumption so using sleep/wake just complicates things for you and you don't gain anything from it.

To be honest I'm not sure. On the other hand, there's really no real reason why you would need to do that. Just leave it woken up. There shouldn't be much difference in power consumption, as even in the sleep state it is still powered (for example it needs to maintain RAM content and also the CPU is still active so it can react to some events). I don't have Shield TV, but I have Xiaomi MiBox with Android TV and I don't use its sleep mode at all.

Well, that depends on your needs. Flirc SE is a 1st gen device, but it has an unique ability to control the PC chassis's power button - this means it's able to turn on the PC from a full shutdown. If you need such function then there's no other choice right now. But you need to take into account that it won't get any new features because of hardware restrictions. Flirc v2, just like the original Flirc (the one in plastic housing) is only able to wake your PC from sleep/hibernate.

SE in the name means Streacom Edition. This is a 1st gen Flirc with a form factor which is compatible with Streacom HTPC cases and it also has an added ability to power the PC on from full shutdown (not just from sleep/hibernation). Other than that it's just 1st gen and doesn't support any new features added in 2nd gen Flirc like macros or long press.

This probably works in a similar way as the LG Magic remote, which also is a BT remote. When a Magic remote is paired to an LG TV, the TV allows you to associate specific device (brand/model etc) with a specific input (HDMI1/HDMI2 etc). When that input is then selected and you press any key on the remote, the TV uses the remote's IR blaster diode to control your device. This doesn't mean that the remote itself is an universal one. It is just an IR output for the TV's firmware. So this means that you probably can use it like @Madiba mentioned, but you can use it that way only when paired with the TV (it probably can't work stand-alone).

Ok, try erasing your Flirc configuration (save it first so you can then restore it). Then try with fully erased Flirc if it still reacts. There's probably some hash overlap with signals from your remotes. Regarding the Flirc GUI, the only way right now is to change scaling setting in Windows screen settings.

Do you have reception issues? If not then I wouldn't bother. Mine is pointed towards the wall and, like I've said before, out of line of sight. If yours is next to the TV, does it mean that it is in line of sight? If yes then I think it should be ok.

Well, obviously IR signal can't go through metal, so if you have the 2nd gen, then it can only receive within some angle on the opposite side from the USB plug. But IR is still in a light spectrum and a lot of surfaces (like walls) reflect it pretty well. So even though the 2nd gen Flirc can "see" the signal only from one side, you still get pretty good reception from multiple directions. Because of the light reflection property of IR it's hard to create a diagram like for RF antennas, where the signal is not reflected by non-metalic surfaces. Just as an example, my Flirc is behind my TV, which hangs on the wall. There's no line of sight at all from the couch point of view, but it works great. Of course it'll depend on many things like wall surface type, ambient IR pollution, power of the IR blaster in the remote, distance.

It's possible you've accidentally recorded these signals when learning the enter key. Try this: click on Erase in the Flirc GUI and then press the power button for Onkyo.

Yes. Use the Fire TV controller in the Flirc GUI.

Does your ShieldTV have an IR receiver? Or is it one of the newer ones without it? If it does have the IR receiver and you want to use Flirc only for extra keys you want to map in Kodi, then you should start with ShieldTV device upgrade, add more keys to it and then teach your Flirc only the extra keys. If it doesn't and you plan to control your whole ShieldTV with Flirc, then it doesn't matter what you're going to start with. You should choose a well supported protocol (like the NECx2 I've mentioned in my previous post) and choose device/subdevice numbers that won't conflict with your other hardware. Flirc is a learning device. The Flirc software let you map keyboard keys to remote buttons. It has native support for two protocols: a proprietary Flirc protocol (used in Harmony remotes) and MCE, and they are used in the built-in profiles - a pre-configured set of mappings for use with Harmony. Other than that, the Flirc doesn't make any assumptions regarding the remote control. It does what you configure it to do.

There's no protocol executor for this remote which would use native Flirc protocol (I've been able to create one for maxq622 processor used in URC-6440 remote), so you need to use one of the standard protocols. I think the best way is to create custom device upgrade in RemoteMaster yourself. Select NECx2 protocol with some random device and subdevice values (eg 251 and 200) and add as many functions as you want with unique OBC values. Then map some functions to buttons and other to the soft buttons on the screen. After that teach your Flirc using Flirc software to react to your remote.

Unfortunately it won't. Besides the heat sink post, there are also the screw posts which go down right to the RPi board itself. The RPi board is screwed to them from the bottom, through the plastic bottom part of the case. You'd need to make the two screw posts shorter by cutting them to proper length (not an easy task). I don't know how much the post is threaded, so there's a risk of loosing the ability to screw it back together.

It seems that all keys on this remote send the same signal. I've googled around and this remote is actually a Bluetooth remote. It requires pairing with the TV to work. I think that the IR is only used for pairing.