theboomr

My personal opinion would be stick to removable batteries, switch to AA if you have to in order to have backlighting on all buttons. I think it's way nicer to use rechargeable AAs than have devices with built-in rechargeable batteries. Maybe it's possible to have charging circuitry in the remote that can charge AAs in it? That's prolly too complex though... EDIT: For the record, I also have basically the same question as OP about using the Skip remote with a Flirc USB. My Flirc USB is plugged into a Chromecast with Google TV, and I haven't tried much yet other than getting confused by how/where I should be adding the Flirc USB to an activity on the remote, and why the only Flirc option I could find under the PC section seems to not have any support for a Home button or a Select/Enter button, just as OP said.

Ooh I'm having this issue with a Series X as well. I thought maybe it was just that my Xbox is at the bottom of my console and wasn't receiving the IR well enough but even if I stick the remote directly in front of the IR receiver on the console, it still doesn't seem to be 100% consistent.

Ok I did try with a USB hub and no change in behavior. Didn't try the rest of USB ports in back of my PC but I strongly doubt it would make any difference.

If it comes down to it, I'd prolly be okay with that haha. No rush to do that though since I am able to connect the remote successfully on my windows tablet still, so it's not like my remote is totally unusable while the app doesn't work on my main PC. I am also on Discord at theboomr#6204 if that's a communication option, I'll also see that quicker than here.

I have tried several ports, including some on the back and all of my front-facing ports, but I haven't tried every single back port. I have not tried putting a hub in between, that's an interesting idea. Can try that tonight probably. If I feel up to it I will try to test every single port in the back too, but I like to keep the same things plugged into the same ports so it is annoying to unplug things :)

Wasn't too much trouble to grab these so here's screenshots of all 10

There are 10 events in there, none from today though. All from yesterday the 16th and a few earlier on the 14th. Still want screenshots of those? I assume you just want the General tab?

Here's a list of running processes. Can you provide a little more instruction how to properly search the Event Viewer? I'm not that familiar with it and find that its UI leaves...quite a lot to be desired, lol. theboomr_Running-Process-List.txt

SkipApp is not open, and I don't see any processes in Task Manager that look like it's hanging out in the background accidentally or anything

Alright, so. First off just want to say, I needed to enable developer mode on my Win11 PC, as well as enable running powershell scripts, in the 2 places I circled in this screenshot: Once I figured that out: the remote shows up in the HID app, and not in the USB app. However, in the HID app, when I select the device, then click "Connect to device", it gives me this red error at the bottom of the window.

For the record, I updated my Skip app via the in-app update notification that popped up, not by clicking the link posted here. Not sure if that should make any difference, it said it was the same version number you posted here, 0.1.0.5293

Interesting. On my W10 tablet where the previous versions were working, this version did break, where the app just shows no connection at all, not even a blip attempting to connect. But my W11 PC, where previous versions were not working, this version did the same thing as my tablet, no connection happening at all in the app, just remains OFFLINE. P.S. Do users on this forum have like an account-wide maximum allowed file upload? Seems like the size I'm allowed to upload keeps decreasing, and that will probably become a problem relatively soon if troubleshooting keeps going. flirc20230117.7z

I did try that already unfortunately, just comes back with the same driver and same issues in the app :(

It just prompts me to search automatically or browse locally. If I search automatically, it says the best driver is already installed, with an option to search on windows update, which yields no new drivers to download.

All 3 of the items have identical details in the lower portion of the window

Here's a copy of the full text of that text box, since I can't enlarge it at all for a good screenshot: "Device settings for USB\VID_20A0&PID_0008\975A69C75055344A352E3120FF0E2E19 were not migrated from previous OS installation due to partial or ambiguous device match. Last Device Instance Id: USB\VID_046D&PID_C539&MI_02\a&15b7f424&0&0002 Class Guid: {745a17a0-74d3-11d0-b6fe-00a0c90f57da} Location Path: Migration Rank: 0xF000FFFFF800F130 Present: false Status: 0xC0000719"

I've learned that the events listed in this window go chronologically with oldest at the TOP, so that means the device was still configured and started after the settings weren't migrated. So maybe this isn't actually anything useful.

Oooh I'm seeing something maybe relevant in Device Manager? I attached a screenshot. In the Events tab for the remote, I see a message about "Device settings not migrated"

My computer is a custom-built desktop, and it is my primary PC that I use for a lot of stuff every day so unfortunately shipping it to you wouldn't be a possibility for me. If I were the only one having this issue I would definitely just chalk it up to some weirdness with Windows 11 Insider builds (since I'm on the dev channel I get a lot of updates that introduce funky behavior semi-regularly). Would it be helpful if I could do some kind of remote session with you to troubleshoot on my PC? Unfortunately I don't think I would have any time to do that tonight but probably tomorrow night I could (I'm in Colorado, Mountain time zone).

Here's my log after doing the same steps with version 5287. Version 8288 (is that supposed to be 5288?) link still does not work though. Also for the record, I tried installing the app on my Windows 10 Eve V tablet and there it works fine! So I'm only having this issue on Windows 11 (which I unfortunately only have installed on 1 computer in the house, so I can't test Win11 elsewhere). But at least I can actually try out using the remote, I'm not totally dead in the water :) flirc20230116.7z

Here's my log after trying the first 4 versions. For each version I installed the updated version, launched the app, plugged in the remote (every time, it had the same behavior of not connecting and getting stuck in the bottom center at "CONNECTING..."), unplugged the remote, then closed the app. I'll post another log once the links become valid for the last 2 versions. flirc20230116.7z

Wasn't sure if you wanted the xml or text report from the USB Device Tree Viewer, so I saved both. Also, I did only see 1 remote listed in that dropdown in the admin window. Also had to zip my log. UsbTreeView_report_JIMOTHY1_1.xml UsbTreeView_report_JIMOTHY1_1.txt flirc20230116.7z

@jason No virus protection apps installed other than the default Windows Security. I tried disabling real-time protection temporarily and running the app again, but no luck, same behavior. I don't have any other Flirc apps open or running that I can see. Also, sorry for my somewhat slow responses, I am only able to check this thread once in a while between other stuff going on.

The issue is occurring for me on Windows 11, insider version 22H2, build 25276.1000. Also, with the latest version, the error behavior has changed a little bit for me. Now when I plug in the remote, the bottom left area just stays the same, disconnected, with no blips/changes, but the bottom center gray icon changes and gets stuck saying "CONNECTING...", even after unplugging the remote. I've attached log with the 0.1.0.5282 version and the new behavior I see when plugging in and unplugging the remote. I am using an administrator account. flirc20230116.log

flirc20230116.log is from today with the new version, and flirc20230115.log is from yesterday before installing the new version. flirc20230116.log flirc20230115.log