Nathan

Oh interesting. So regardless of the host computer, the TV is interfering with the Flirc? Reading some past replies with this issue, it sounds like what might be going on is some kind of IR bleed. For some reason light might be hitting your Flirc that the Flirc is interpreting as commands, so it can't see whatever remote you're using. Might try blocking your TV remote or, as a test, blocking off the Flirc with a paper towel or toilet paper tube or something while it's plugged, so the only thing it can see is the remote you're using to control it on the other end of the tube.

Just to be clear, were you having trouble with your gen 1 flirc, and this solved the problem?

Yep, that's weird. We've now gone past my knowledge base. I'll ask Jason to take a look, but it may be a bit. With the Skip 1s getting ready to ship, it's been all hands on deck.

Windows Instructions -- ** UPDATED ** Run the SkipApp Installer.exe, right click, "Run as Administrator". We are aware of all the windows warnings. We are improving this and will get the app signed with a better installer. Mac Instructions Just like any other mac app, mount the SkipApp-0.9.0-mac-universal.dmg and drag the application over to your applications folder. Known Issues We are 100% focused on stability and have sidelined some of our animations until the app matures. There are some known bugs we have prioritized, and listed below. Power key limited to 8 keys total. Will be fixed in the next release Windows Performance Issues likely due to redux Occasional glitch in graphics while re-arranging macro list which needs an app restart 8 Device Colors can be hard to distinguish Drop Down's have quirks Still improving automappings Some missing flirc devices in our database Note - Exported configs have the suffix `.skip` but is just a json file. Rename to look. Please remember to leave version specific feedback in this thread, and always let us know if you are using Windows or Mac. ** EDIT ** - This thread is now locked in favor of the new thread for our latest version.

Can you run the Flirc USB app on the device and get the Device Log when connected to each monitor? I genuinely can't see how or why an HDMI connection would interfere with USB, so I'm curious to see if the USB is still registering input when plugged into the JVC TV.

If you plug a keyboard into this PC while connected to the JVC TV, does the keyboard also not work?

This doesn't seem like a Flirc issue, unless I'm misunderstanding?

see pinned thread at the top of this subform.

Most of the previous updates before that one were about kickstarter itself, however we did also post several videos during that time. I'll go ahead and post those here as well.

It was pointed out to me that those of you who pre-ordered aren't getting the updates that the Kickstarter folks are getting. I'm 100% sorry about that and want to rectify it now. As we post all future updates to Kickstarter, we'll also post them here. For now, here's the most recent update posted by Jason yesterday, Dec 1. I'm going to go ahead and lock this particular thread, just so the only things posted here are updates. Feel free to discuss in another thread. Update on Schedule Quick update to keep in touch with all the backers. Production started about 2 weeks ago and final assembly will take place on the 10th. If all goes well, we should be shipping units expeditiously. Things can go faster, they can go slower. But as is my nature I will not rest unless things are perfect, and approved. Weekly updates will turn into frequent updates. Software will be sent to the few backers who requested early access within the next day or so and will be provided to a wider audience as we get closer to launch. I have limited resources but will provide a way to search for supported devices. Our commercially licensed database gets frequent updates, and includes oddities like fans and AC units that support IR. Adding Devices to the Database Nathan, one of the Flirc team, had an audio device that wasn't in the database, but we were able to add it within 10 minutes after getting all his codes from his remote using a Flirc USB. A quick JSON file with those codes was imported into the software. Once verified, we threw that into Continuous Integration and it's tracked separately so we can send quarterly updates back up to the database creators. Eventually we plan on automating this within the Skip app, but for now we are happy to have a pretty simple manual process developed.

Stop and Record are down at the bottom by the Zero of the number pad

I mean, you can also just use the stop button as the stop button.

The Skip cannot create new buttons for devices, only use existing ones. So if the Samsung TV has a dedicated button for an app, then probably. If not, then yeah, you'd need to create a button sequence that gets to that specific app.

There are color buttons. There's a "color" button below the navigation area that replaces the nav buttons with color buttons. Also, it's a universal remote. Any button can be the stop button if you want it.

As you say, the app certainly isn't cloud reliant, save for updates and such. Current plan is to allow for simple exporting of configs that can the be re-uploaded or even imported into a Skip app somewhere else. So for example you could set up grandma's remote at your computer, then send it over to her via email. Request for an IR repeater has been heard. Definitely planned for the road map eventually.

Sorry, no mic on the Skip 1s.

There's no public list, I'm afraid, but if your receiver and TV are from any sort of established brand, they're likely supported.

When programming the Flirc, you do still need to program the keys. Simple method is to start with the Harmony. Selecting XBMC is as good as anything. Then go to the Flirc software, flip to the PS4 Controller, and assign the appropriate buttons to the buttons in the Flirc app. edit: Actually, since there is no official Flirc PS4 profile, you could pick the PS4 as the profile in Logitech, if there is one. If not, XBMC still works.

Could you give a bit more detail about what you're trying to do? I don't own a broadlink, but my understanding is that it's essentially a repeater for another remote. So you take some random remote, set the Flirc up to work with that remote, and then teach the the Broadlink the keys that you taught the Flirc. Are you familiar with setting up the Flirc?

Just to cover the bases, have you plugged your flirc in to a PC or Mac and used the full keyboard layout to program in the F-keys? Once programmed, the Flirc v2 should just appear as a keyboard with f-keys to the receiver.

The plan is to ship a special box set with USB and Skip together. We don't have an official release time beyond the stated Fall 2022 yet. With that said, I see your order in the list, and can go ahead and get the USB shipped out now.

Welcome. Let me see what I can answer: 1. There is not a button for everything. However, presumably what you'll do in your audio delay slider example is re-assign some keyboard button or combo to that feature. Which brings us to 2. Yes, we very much plan on integrating the Flirc USB and Skip app as much as possible. For non-custom situations, you should simply be able to pick the Flirc USB - Kodi profile when setting up your Skip, and the USB likely won't need any programming at all, save maybe a quick update. For custom situations, you'd likely assign your custom keys as described in the drag n drop portion of the video above. Presumably, every Flirc profile on the Skip App will include all 104/5 keys in the button list. We just won't use most of them in the default setup. This will probably require some work in the Flirc USB app as well, since I don't anticipate Skip having every possible keyboard combination as a listed option. Whether the Flirc App will be able to send newly created combos TO the Skip App is unknown to me. I don't think we were planning on that tight an integration, but it's a good idea, so never say never. 3. Not sure how much we're allowed to say about the database. 50k devices are supported, and that includes US and EU models.

Everyone has their own personal experience with IR. I'll go ahead and leave this thread open regardless though, in case others are also interested in switching the way the power button works.

Seems like the problem with this method is that you couldn't stop the Fire TV from listening, so every command you sent to the HTPC would also go to the Fire TV. Easier solution is to use a universal remote, like the Skip 1s by Flirc, then use that to control everything. Then the Fire TV and HTPC could each have unique commands.

You can flip from the Kodi profile to the Keyboard profile and train a remote button to enter the S command. edit: Oh, or are you saying you use that now, but it'd be nice if the Kodi profile did that without needing to switch? If so, fair point.