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Budwyzer

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Posts posted by Budwyzer

  1.   I don't know of any way to view the current config, even as a text file of sorts.   

     

    The biggest thing others have asked for is a light-up function in the upcoming GUI.  This will light up the current keys that are bound to the remote as you press the corresponding key on the remote.  So when you press the UP arrow on the remote, after having bound that button to the UP key on teh keyboard, the UP key in the GUI will light up.

     

    The Flirc firmware is going through some big changes right now. Jason is working on kicking out the official v1.0 soon, and from what I've read that he's posted it will be dramatically different and improved.

  2. Not sure exactly what you're asking here. Are you saying you're thinking of getting two flircs and setting one up for each remote?

    Be aware that there is only a finite amount of memory in the Flirc, so programming in that full keyboard isn't really an option. I am also unaware of any way to get a track pad to work with the flirc. Maybe there is a way, but I just don't know of it.

  3. I have all the keys I absolutely NEED. But in order to type stuff when searching in Netflix or something I have to use the bluetooth keypad and OMG does it have a bad connection! It has to have a clear LoS to the receiver and you cant cover the back with your hand.

    So, what I'm wondering is why am I limited from programming the entire keyboard from my remote into the Flirc?

    Is there not enough physical memory? Or was it just not something that was foreseen to ever be an issue?

    51P%2BmLWPNdL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

    There's my TV remote. Full keyboard and even has game buttons! Being able to use it as a backup controller for Inde games on Steam would be great too!

    • Like 2
  4.  

    Here's my setup, finally.

    Apartment
    post-2205-0-02189000-1358735486_thumb.jp

    All those network cables sitting on the right are for one of these. This brings the video/sound from my gaming PC that is in another room. Works great so far.

     

    House

    post-2205-0-09337800-1381513470_thumb.jp - see below   :)


    Here's the back of my remote that came with the TV.
    post-2205-0-97132900-1358735699_thumb.pn

    Here's the front.
    post-2205-0-05305400-1358735725_thumb.pn

  5. While that is nice if all you're using is the Flirc for a remote, I suggest a:

    41J4scrbPaL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

    attached to the end of that extender. Or if you can find one with a long cord to begin with. Because if you're like me then you have other crap plugged into their as well. I have a Bluetooth radio for a PS3 controller with MotionJoy, and 2 bluetooth sticks for Logitech gamepads because Motionjoy is really wonky, and then I have the Flirc in there.

    Link

  6. While it makes sense to have something like this, I do like using Win+n ("n" being a number) to launch Plex and the like. Because when a pesky popup shows up for whatever reason, it also works to refocus on that program. I dont think an application launcher would do that, in fact it would just launch another instance of the app if it's allowed. And if it isn't allowed, then yet another popup would occur saying that the app in question is already running.

  7. So, what do you guys think? Because as I see TVs becoming smarter, I can see the remotes becoming more like this. My new TV has Amazon video, Netflix, Vudu, all that stuff, and Im pretty sure there's an option for controlling the optical output volume as well so I wont need my stereo remote for anything more than to turn it on.

    With this level of programmability being introduced into televisions there is little need for that old "TV/DVD/SAT/AUX" switch anymore, and thus a growing need for an Enable/Disable function.

  8. For my tv remote that I bought this for, this worked great. But my new tv, oddly has a remote that doesn't have a switch or buttons to change what device it's sending signals too.

    Originally I could switch my remote to DVD, which I had the codes set for for my FLIRC. Then I could change it back to TV and it wouldnt mess up anything on my computer if I was hitting the arrow keys or Enter key.

    Now though, my remote doesnt have this option, and when I'm cruising through the Netflix or Amazon video lists it's messing with my PC too.

    I don't think there is, so I'm asking for it, could we get a button to enable/disable the rest of the keys in the FLIRC?

    41yBP01z5rL._SY300_.jpg

    Here's the remote. I could use the "yellow" key to disable/enable the flirc, because as far as I can tell, it doesn't do a darn thing.

    • Like 2
  9. Just wanted to let it be known. I had this problem with having to record every button twice with my remote. It's not a harmony, or any kind of fancy remote, it's just the remote that came with my TV. Managed to fix them all, except the Enter key. That one is crazy. I programmed the first one in, then when I go to do the second time in, it either just undoes the recording, doesn't say it was stopped or that it was recorded successfully it just quits, or it will say it's already been recorded. And I know it's not recording the second code because I'm having to press it twice every time I want to select something.

    MitsLT40134_Remote.gif

    Pretty slick TV remote though huh. I made "Input" my back button, it's a lot easier to reach than "Exit".

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