ShoutingMan

Ok, thanks. I think I can get along without those long-press keys in daily use. I understand the flirc side of things now. Just need to revise my URC MX-780 programming.

Is it possible to program the long-press of the Back and Home buttons, that bring up settings and application panes?

Ok, thanks! I'll try that. (I'd misunderstood. From using it in windows, I thought the Flirc software was the driver system that interpreted everything coming from the USB dongle. I had no idea that the dongle itself was programmed by the FLIRC software, and then the software was no longer needed.)

I don’t know what that means, to “pair” it on the PC and bring it to the shield. Without the FLIRC software, how do I assign remote control buttons to Shield inputs? That’s how it worked on the PC. I assigned remote codes to the remote control — arbitrary IR outputs that didn’t conflict with any other device in my system. Then I used the FLIRC software to map the remote buttons to Windows keys. How do I do that on the Shield? (I’ve read through chunks of the manual and also searched this thread. But I’m missing something fundamental, compared to how FLIRC works on Windows. Thanks for any help. )

How do I install the Flirc software on my Shield? I bought a Shield this weekend, and swapped my (gen 1?) Flirc from my HTPC to my Shield. But in the Shield’s add-app system, I can’t find a Flirc app. I'm at a loss for how to even start programming my Shield to work with my URC MX780. I appreciate any help. :)

I had no idea! I've been using Flirc for about 18 months and I didn't know about that! Thanks. :)

Yep, that's it. I run the Windows at 150% scaling for usability for "couch" viewing on a large screen HD display. I can flip back to 100% and run Flirc as needed.

I'm excited about this new version of Flirc (3.1.0) -- I had version 1.x the past year and no idea there were any updates. :) But the new high-res window is too large and it can't be resized, making it harder to use. I'm running Flirc on my home-theater system, a standard HD 1920x1080 display. The bottom of the Flirc UI is cut off and I can't get it on the screen! I've attached a screenshot to illustrate.

A feature request I've had since buying Flirc (a year ago) but never posting is a key UI tool: show what key(s) a remote button already mapped to. In some mode in the UI, after pressing a remote button, the UI should show or highlight what the mapped key(s) are. Thanks!

I'm trying to submit a support request from the FLIRC support page. Every time I submit, it erases the info and gives the error, "It seems like you're not a human." Huh? How do I convince the support webpage that I am a human so it will submit my request?

Thanks for that info. To configure the remote, would the installer create a general setup, with direction arrows programmed to arbitrary values, and an Enter key and other miscellaneous buttons...and then would he give me the codes used for the buttons so I can program the FLIRC software accordingly? This is really easy with a Logitech Harmony. I'm lost at sea with the URC and working with an installer.

I'm hiring an custom installer to program a URC remote control for my home theater electronics. I have an HTPC with a FLIRC I want included in the program setup. I need to give the installer info so he can incorporate the FLIRC / HTPC in the remote's programming (he's not familiar with FLIRC). Where can I find the info an installer needs to program a URC remote to control an HTPC via FLIRC? I'm at a loss on this. He's asking for device codes, and I can't find anything on the FLIRC website so far.

And it's working in the Plex Home Theater app.

Flirc is basically operational after updating on a Mac. After the Flirc app on my Mac updated the Firmware on the Flirc, I cleared the settings. I programmed my Logitech Harmony One to control the Flirc using Kodi settings (http://mymediaexperience.com/flirc-remote-control-companion/). On the Win10 PC I downloaded and reinstalled the Flirc app, launched it, and then plugged in the Flirc. That worked fine. I quit the app. I ran PowerDVD 16 and have basic control of it with my Harmony One and the Flirc.

Downloaded the Flirc software to my Mac and connected the Flirc. It said it successfully upgraded the Firmware to v3.8. So are you telling me that I can program it on my Mac and then connect and operate the dongle on my Win10 HTPC?

How about with a Mac?

What are the steps to restore the Flirc's functionality in Win7 or Linux?

Following up: any recommendations for getting Flirc to work in Windows 10?

Brand new PC, custom built this weekend. Fresh install of Windows 10 64-bit, upgraded from a clean install of Win7 64-bit Home User. Hardware is Intel Core i5 6500, ASRock H170 Pro4 motherboard with USB3, and a Samsung EVO 850 500GB SSD (and other various pieces). I initially connected the Flirc. Then I found the GUI app download page, installed it. It launched. Then I ran the Force FW Upgrade from the app. That seemed to run, and then the app crashed. Subsequently the app crashes on launch. I've tried: * Reinstalling the app * Uninstalling app and drivers, and then manually updating the drivers from the app's driver directory. * Running the Zadig approach described in the ZenDesk forum, but the process doesn't match what I see in Windows 10, so I didn't proceed. I haven't tried the installation process I just found, which is to install the GUI first and then plug in the USB dongle. Thanks for the help. Sorry I was "short" in my initial post. Two days of PC build, including 4-6 hours lost on Win7 updater failures...and then get past that to find the Flirc receiver died on installation. I was frustrated :)

I've got a brand new flirc usb dongle (arrived yesterday). I connected it, downloaded the application, updated the firmware per Flirc's blog, and now the software crashes on launch. I tried manually updating the firmware as recommended in the sticky note of the firmware forum. That didn't fix it. http://blog.flirc.tv/library-version-history/ I uninstalled the driver and application completely, rebooted, and reinstalled. That didn't fix it. My brand new flirc is dead. Is there a fix, or do I just need to return it for a refund and find some other IR receiver?