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freeze

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  1. What you *CAN* do is solder a momentary pushbutton reset switch onto the Pi. This button will reset the Pi which should start it back up again after it has been shut down. When you shut it down, it still has power (hence the power light is still lit), but the cpu is in a halted state. A reset will tell the cpu to start loading instructions again. It's not as nice as using an IR remote, but it sude beats unplugging the power and plugging it back in.
  2. I imagine that you could install the flirc software onto a windows PC, and then plug in flirc there to set it up. Once it's configured how you like it, you can remove the flirc and plug it into the Pi. No fancy software install required. It looks like a USB keyboard. ...but honestly, flirc is overkill for the Raspberry Pi. You could just connect an IR reciever to the GPIO pins of the raspi. I have done it using a 38Khz IR receiver from Radio Shack (we still have an active store in my town) for less that $5. Catalog number 276-0640.
  3. Is there any progress on this issue? I have a very similar remote (Atlas DVR 1054) and am pretty much experiencing the same symptoms. I posted about it in topic 1833 () At the time, I had some success by bouncing the beam off the wall, but the keypresses were still missed a lot. If you will forgive me posting a link to someone else's forum, the remote is shown here: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8508 I actually have 2 of these remotes: One is setup in a very detailed manner with custom protocols for some of my other devices, and that is the one I'm trying to use with flirc. The profile on the remote is the built-in standard Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD. The other remote is factory default (which also defaults to using the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD profile). Both have the same problem with flirc... Inconsistent results. Is there a known make/model of remote that is recommended for flirc? I'm willing to try to program my spare remote for it to see if it will help any.
  4. When I'm recording the button presses, and when testing in notepad, I'm the same distance from the flirc... About 8 feet. ...And that's the strange thing: When I record the button presses by bouncing off the wall behind me, and then test in notepad also bouncing the beam off the same wall, flirc seems to work great. I get the programmed characters pretty reliably. It's just when I aim the remote directly at flirc, it gets bashful and doesn't respond. I can see that I'm not having multiple keypress problems like many of the other members, so I think I'm REALLY close to getting this working perfectly if I can just get this issue worked out.
  5. I have been working to use flirc with KODI for the past couple of weeks and am just having all sorts of trouble. Here is my basic info that you usually ask for: OS: Windows 7 Ultimate, SP1 Flirc SW Version: 1.3.6 Flirc FW Version: 3.6 Remote: Atlas 5-Device (1054) Remote Profile: Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD Inter-Key Delay: 6 Flirc is seen by the PC just fine, no matter what USB port I plug it into. When I record a keypress, the software indicated that the button was recorded fine. When I test the recorded button (yes, I'm testing it in notepad, as well as KODI), the result is that no characters are shown. I'm no slouch, so I read these forums looking for similar symptoms. One post I read suggested that the flirc is VERY sensitive, and rather than point the remote directly at flirc, bounce the beam off a wall. I re-recorded the button presses by bouncing the beam off the wall, and also tested it by bouncing, and the results were very good..... However, if I point the remote directly at flirc, I still get no response! What is the final solution to this? I don't want to be aiming my remote at my TV to change the volume, and then over my shoulder for controlling kodi. I even tried plugging flirc into a usb port on the BACK of the PC, so I could bounce the signal off the wall behind it, but it wasn't reliable enough and it missed too many keypresses. Is there a software fix that improves this behavior? A setting in the GUI? A diffuser in front of the flirc? An unofficial firmware upgrade? How can I use my entertainment system like a normal human being without flinging my remote around like a mad orchestra conductor?
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