While it appeared to work properly with my old Flirc at first, I noticed that it doesn't work 100% of the time. For example, the "OK" button works most of the time, but it doesn't work at all in the Sling TV application. When I switched my new v2 FireTV stick with our FireTV 4K Max v1 stick, Sling TV works perfectly when the OK button is pressed.

Is there anything I can do to fix it?

received my flirc v2 today.

Installed everything and updated firmware (Flirc-Setup-3.27.19.exe).

I mapped the "eject" key on "ps4 template" to a remote code from my "tbs remote".

When i then press the key on the "tbs remote", in the flirc software, it shows "ch+" key, instead of the selected "eject" key on the ps4 template.

This happens to many other buttons too!

I map a key from the "tbs remote "to a specific key on the ps4 template BUT after, when pressing the button, it only presses the "ch+" key in the ps4 template.

So, in this state flirc is unusable for me because 90% of the mapped buttons from my "tbs remote" all press the "ch+" key.

What must i do, that, after mapping a remote code, the selected key is then "used", and not a different key?

This is the "tbs remote":

IR debugging log:

https://pastebin.com/6VJtr0DX

Ad these are the "nec" remote codes, i get, when using it with libreelec/coreelec on a s905 box:

https://pastebin.com/iaup3QUc

EDIT: Now i used my samsung tv remote. same behaviour. i map smthg to the eject key on the ps4 template but after it presses the ch+ key.

"USB C to USB Adapter with Type C Charging, 2 in 1 Type C 3.0 OTG Splitter with 60W PD Fast Charge Compatible with iPhone 15 Pro Max, Galaxy S23 S22 S21,Switch,LG V40 V30 G8, Pixel4 XL,Google TV 2020"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098SVSDYW

I can confirm this works! Once I got everything hooked up, my remote (already set up for Shield) "just works" with the Google box, as expected.

BTW, so far I find the Google TV Streamer 4K to be a nice upgrade from the Shield. The interface seems a little smoother, it runs a newer version of Android, and it also doubles as a Matter-enabled smart home hub.

I've done it before but I can't remember how I did it and now I need to do it again. Grrrr....

I have a question regarding the commandline tool flirc_util.

Problem stopped after a reboot from the computer; I cannot reproduce it so removing the question.

When I learn a couple of keys on the Flirc (using the commandline tool), and then run "flirc_util settings", it shows me the list of keys I've learned.

If I then unplug the Flirc and replug it, the programmed keys still work, but "flirc_util settings" shows an empty list. If I now learn some keys, "flirc_util settings" will only show the newly learned keys.

Is this the intended behaviour? 

It is possible to circumvent it by saving to a flirc config file prior to unplugging the flirc, and loading the config file after replugging it. Flirc_util will show a complete list of the commands as they were saved, and learning new keys will add to this list. I'm now systematically saving my config to a file and loading it as it easier to have this list (I'm using an MCE remote, which means I need to train all the keys twice due to the MCE's rolling code).

Just out of curiosity: Is there a way of getting the full list of learned keys after having unplugged the Flirc?

Thanks!

Jörg

• in menus, the selection moves right to the next item
• in videos, the video skips 10 seconds

which is quite annoying as you may understand.

Maybe this information helps:

# flirc_util
[W] lib/cmds.c handle_longopt(180): `version' doesn not take '--pretty' option
flirc_util version 8345cdac217ffa26ea4c844bc8f245668e8a5415 [8345cda+]
 Firmware Detected
 FW Version: v4.10.7
    SKU:     Flirc 2.0 [dori]
    Branch:  release
    Config:  release
    Hash:    0x71266B92

I do not think that there are other strong IR transmitter in the room

Do you have an idea how to fix that?
Is there a newer firmware to be applied? How can I do that?

Many thanks for your thoughts in advance!

I have used used flirc_util device_log --ir -p

and yes I get a lot of interference. I turned off my keyboard and mouse. I don't know what else to turn off. Plus it does seem like recording is happening. It is just wrong. Help please.

Also I then adjusted play/pause to ctrl alt f and it worked with a few second delay. Why?

flirc_util $ settings
3.27.15+
FW Version: v4.10.7
   SKU:     Flirc 2.0 [marlin]
   Branch:  release
   Config:  release
   Hash:    0x71266B92

Settings:
  sleep detection:  always enabled
  noise canceler:   always enabled
  inter-key delay:  N/A for current firmware
  variant:          Flirc
  builtin profiles: NA
  Memory Info:      NA
  product sku:      Flirc 2.0 [marlin]

Recorded Keys:
Index  hash       IK   ID  key
-----  --------   ---  --  ------------
    0  CF843A24   130  01  F8
    1  B14401A9   120  01  F8
    2  CF0965E2   130  01  left_ctrl+left_altF 
    3  7C8BFE2A   050  01  left_ctrl+left_altF 

Thanks!

Windows 11, Flirc Gen 2, Skip 1s remote (the Skip 1s works flawlessly with TV and other IR devices, no issues there).
I have the Flirc USB to go in an Nvidia Shield.

Downloaded and installed Flirc USB software on PC.
Plugged Flirc into PC USB port, recognised by software, updated firmware successfully.
Flirc logs show nothing of interest (screenshot attached to show IR debugging enabled).
I choose a controller
Choose a button to map (or click go on minimalist), confirm the button starts flashing and says "Press the button to be paired with..."
Press buttons on remote, nothing happens.

I've tried multiple remotes, multiple USB ports, have clear line of sight between Flirc USB and remote, but no matter what I do the Flirc never seems to receive an IR signal.

Git Version: 3.27.19

I can't think of anything else I could try. Any suggestions? Thanks!

I want to use a mini-PC to install LibreElec on it, and the idea is that I’d be able to boot it up using my TV remote.
I’ve heard about Flirc, but there’s one unknown: would the Flirc USB dongle be able to initiate the boot process (or, at the very least, wake it from sleep), just like pressing a key on the keyboard to wake up the OS ?

Thanks ;-)

On the web site for this device I click download then accept terms and the 'Download' button remains greyed out?

Is there or a problem or am I at the wrong site?

Flirc USB - Flirc

so I got the flirc usb, programmed it on windows OS to the nvidia shield gen2 controller and paired a couple of buttons with my lg remote tv (after pressing the button the gui confirmed that the instruction was saved), but upon inserting it into the shield nothing happens when I click any of the buttons on the LG remote. I made sure that USB debugging is of and HD storage as well. Any other ideas what could be the culprit?

For the purpose of asking these questions lets assume that I have a windows laptop, a cheap 21 button IR remote from eBay, a remote for my air conditioner, and a remote for my floor mounted fan. I would like to use the 21 button remote as the master.  There is no media center involved.

I would like to map a few of the keys on small remote to some of the keys on AC and fan remote.  I don't know how this is done yet.  However what would really be nice is to have the Flirc software ask me to press a key on the small remote and then ask me to press a key on the ac remote and then map the two of them together.  That is, when the Flirc receives the keypress from the small remote it will then transmit the IR signal that was mapped to it.  Can the Flirc do this kind of mapping regardless of the steps required to do the mapping?

Upon receipt of a specified key on the small remote is it possible to stuff keystrokes into the host PC.  That is, I may want to press the "9" button on the remote and have the words "Hello World"  show up in the Word doc that currently has focus.

Once programmed for resending mapped IR commands does the Flirc just need to be housed in something that provides power?

Thank you.

I am using two remote controls and have programmed a button on one remote control to keypress the letter "a".

I programmed a button on the second remote to keypress the letter "s".

I shifted focus to a Word doc to verify that each is working and they are.

This just shows that I have everything installed correctly.

What I would now like to do is to program a button on the first remote so that it will transmit the exact same IR code that is associated with a second button on the second remote control.

I have no particular task in mind for this example I just want to learn how to use the IR transmitter.

I have seen in another post that the product developers are not happy with the power output of the transmitter.  This is not a problem, the transmitter will be located about 2 inches away from the device, a TV, that is receiving the signal.

Thanks in advance.

We are seeing/sending new 4.10.6 production units, we are stable @4.10.5 with no FLIRC app installed on machines, unable to rollback new flircs to our stable using our custom app. Can we get 4.10.7 binary for testing/integration so we can roll with it?

With kind regards,

Rob

I'm a new Flirc user, ultimately wanting to control my media PC with it (which is running LibreElec). As I understand it, I need to set it up first, though I have no idea what that entails just yet. I've been trying to get the software working on my desktop machine, which is running Fedora Kinoite 43.

I first tried the AppImage, which runs but does not detect the plugged in Flirc. It just says "Please connect flirc" even though it's connected (and the o/s notifies me that it's connected).

I then tried switching to the CLI, which I'll probably prefer longer-term anyway. However, when I installed it into an Ubuntu-based toolbox (container) and ran `flirc_util wait`, it would just display "Waiting..." even after plugging/unplugging the USB.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

The only way I can get constistently reliable signal from my remote into Flirc receiver is when I plug Flirc DIRECTLY to one of the USB ports on the back of the case, i.e. the mobo ports. When I use an USB extension cord, or plug Flirc into one of the front (case) USB ports, the receiver sensitivity is on an off (have to press a remote button 4x for the PC to register an input).

It's like Flirc hates any sort of USB signal extension.

Any ideas? Many thanks!

I am trying to decode the signal from a remote for a Metz TV. When I press a button, e.g. volume up, the following shows up in the log:

-9765000

+916 -2256 +473 -888 +478 -887 +474 -1584 +478 -1585 +478 -887 +474 -1584 +478 -887 +474 -887 +474 -1589 +473 -887 +478 -887 +474 -1585 +478 -1584 +474 -887 +479 -1584 +478 -888 +473 -1584 +477 -1584 +452 -914 +473 -907 +454 -1589 +474 -887 +478 -1584 +478
-125000

+927 -2244 +473 -887 +474 -887 +474 -1588 +474 -1588 +474 -887 +478 -1584 +473 -887 +478 -888 +473 -1585 +478 -887 +473 -888 +474 -1588 +474 -1588 +474 -937 +397 -1615 +473 -887 +492 -1569 +504 -1558 +478 -886 +474 -886 +478 -1583 +474 -886 +478 -1583 +504

How do I decode this? If I run irtools on the long lines I get:

"C:\Program Files (x86)"\Flirc\irtools.exe decode --raw="+915 -2256 +474 -888 +478 -887 +474 -1585 +505 -1558 +479 -887 +478 -1585 +474 -888 +478 -888 +474 -1585 +478 -888 +474 -887 +478 -888 +478 -883 +478 -887 +478 -1585 +478 -887 +474 -1584 +479 -1584 +478 -1584 +505 -1562 +474 -1588 +474 -887 +494 -1568 +478"
+915 -2256 +474 -888 +478 -887 +474 -1585 +505 -1558 +479 -887 +478 -1585 +474 -888 +478 -888 +474 -1585 +478 -888 +474-887 +478 -888 +478 -883 +478 -887 +478 -1585 +478 -887 +474 -1584 +479 -1584 +478 -1584 +505 -1562 +474 -1588 +474 -887 +494 -1568 +478
[E] ir_denon_decode(44): invalid bit count, expect 31 != 49
0000 006D 0019 0000 0023 0056 0012 0022 0012 0022 0012 003C 0013 003B 0012 0022 0012 003C 0012 0022 0012 0022 0012 003C0012 0022 0012 0022 0012 0022 0012 0021 0012 0022 0012 003C 0012 0022 0012 003C 0012 003C 0012 003C 0013 003C 0012 003D0012 0022 0013 003C 0012 0C51
:: DECODEIR :: Gap-915-2619-24? - scancode: 0xFFFFFFFF  D:0x0001  S:0x0000
[E] ir_denon_decode(44): invalid bit count, expect 31 != 49
:: ARDUINO  :: UNKNOWN       - scancode: 0x72EA1B45 {32}
++++

If I remove all newlines and try to decode that the errors look much worse.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Bodo