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  3. Thanks a lot. It is working flawlessly again. (Well, Teletext and On Demand buttons on touch screen of harmony remote do not work, but I can live with this.)
  4. Ditto. I have it on a reliable leaker that the Ryzen 4000 APUs are coming very, very soon and so many people are hurrying to prepare to build fresh new HTPCs for this summer. The fuss right now is there is no IR module to speak of for any of the Streacom cases. Having had headphone amplifier PCBs manufactured in China, I know via the circles and channels I am in touch with that the fabrication centers are already back online there. If you could do another run of the FLIRC-SE, a great many people would be indebted to you!
  5. Hi there all, Situation: I have 2 remotes: a Vizio TV remote to control my 48" Vizio TV & a Bose Universal Remote to control my Bose Solo 5 TV Soundbar. Links: Vizio TV Remote: https://www.amazon.com/XRT136-Control-D24F-F1-D43F-F1-E55U-D0/dp/B0788PN3VS/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=vizio+tv+remote&qid=1589818642&s=electronics&sr=1-5 Bose Remote: https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Soundbar-System-Universal-Control/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sound+system+tv&qid=1588620674&sr=8-3 Need: I want to be able to press the Power button and the Bluetooth button from the Bose remote control and program it to the Vizio TV Remote Control using Flirc. This way, I don't have to use 2 remotes (1 to control my TV, and the other to just power up my Bose soundbar). Trials: I have tried looking at these 2 forum pages: http://forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/topic/542-cant-get-remote-to-work-someone-please-help/&tab=comments#comment-3716 http://forum.flirc.tv/index.php?/topic/3019-ir-sending-to-a-bose-v30/&tab=comments#comment-15925 but they don't seem to help. I've tried to also program the basic mute, power, volume up, volume down buttons using flirc on my Vizio Remote and then plugging the Flirc USB into the Bose Solo TV Soundbar, but nothing happens. Please help! Using the big chunky Bose Remote is driving me nuts just to turn it on!
  6. Earlier
  7. Thank you all for clearing that up for me. Disappointing really as the 2019 Shield TV suits my needs exactly.
  8. Thanks, I see your post Mick. This seems more like a workaround than an actual solution. I did connect Jason with someone from Logitech support but he couldn't get them to connect him to the right people to get the command added to the myharmony software so the problem lingers. Until then maybe I will try your solution, or just keep manually putting it to sleep before shutting down my system. Thanks!
  9. I beg to differ, I managed to make the power off function work on my logitech harmony one (check my previous posts on the subject)
  10. When this thread was started, the difference between Pro and non-Pro, was simply a hard drive, this changed a little over the years, then 2019 update occurred, and the little stick thing appeared as a Shield TV and there was a far bigger difference. You will find all prior talk is now effectively relevant only to the current Pro model.
  11. Mark, If this is in reference to my post above then yes I was talking about the 2019 Shield TV Pro. And yes all functions work with the exception of power off when you are using a Logitech Harmony.
  12. Just discovered the Flirc and reading up on it as I'm considering an Android TV box. I'm confused by all this talk of the 2019 Nvidia Shield TV. It doesn't have an USB socket so I don't see how it can work with the Flirc. I understand the Nvidia Shield TV Pro does and so the Flirc does work. Am I missing something?
  13. Just discovered the Flirc and reading up on it as I'm considering an Android TV box. I'm confused by all this talk of the 2019 Nvidia Shield TV. It doesn't have an USB socket so I don't see how it can work with the Flirc. I understand the Nvidia Shield TV Pro does and so the Flirc does work. Am I missing something?
  14. OK, still playing around with it trying to get it work the way I want and found that part of the problem is with the Built in Profiles being selected. If I uncheck all of the Built in Profiles, I don't get the a2a2a2a2 any more but I must now press a given button twice to get a single command. I started a new thread in the Bugs forum.
  15. I have been trying to get my FLIRC working with an MCE remote to interface to an older (non-MCE) app and have found the following. I go into the GUI, clear the configuration and uncheck all of the Build in Profiles (Side note: After exiting and restarting the GUI I sometimes find some or all of the Built in Profiles are now checked. Multiple retries will finally get them all unchecked). I then confirm using Notepad that none of the numeric keys on the remote are sending any commands. I return to the GUI and using the Full Keyboard controller, I map the "a" key to the "1" button, "b" key to the "2" button ...... "j" key to the "0" button. I return to Notepad to confirm operation and find I must press a numeric button twice to get a single letter. I simply want to send an "a" each time I press the "1" button and so on. How do I get that to work? Thanks, Bill Windows 10 Home Version 1909 (OS Build 18363.836) FLIRC GUI Version 3.25.3 Firmware v4.9.3
  16. Just got my FLIRC and I am trying to set up an MCE (Media Center Edition) remote to interface with an application by simply sending keyboard characters to the application when certain buttons are pressed on the remote. Here is what is happening: First, I do a clear configuration, and then select the Full Keyboard controller. I select the "comma" key and press the "Fast Forward" button on the remote. Now I go to Notepad on the computer to test that the Fast Forward button is actually sending a comma. It does, but only on every other button press! Thus, it takes two presses of the Fast Forward button to get one comma. After trying to figure out what is going on (unsuccessfully), I also discovered the following: First, I do a clear configuration, and then select the Full Keyboard controller. I select the "1" key and press the "1" button on the remote. I then select the "a" key and press the "2" button on the remote. I go back to Notepad to test. Each time I press the "1" button, I do indeed get a "1" however, the first time I press the "2" button, I get an "a" and the second time I press the "2" button, I get a "2"! So, repeated presses of the "2" button results in 'a2a2a2a2' in Notepad. This behavior is consistent with all of the number buttons on the remote. I can only guess that I am missing something. Please help. Sorry if I posted in the wrong forum, let me know if I should repost elsewhere.
  17. Hi, first time here. Just bought the FLIRC USB and wanted to download the installer but when I try, Chrome blocks the download telling me "This file is dangerous, so Chrome has blocked it." Is it OK to continue the download or should I wait as Chrome suggests? Dave
  18. update: The parts have been ordered, and i'll expect to test it mid next week.
  19. Okhan


    Good luck getting an answer. I have learnt my lesson now to not buy a product based on promise or potential. It is fair if the feature is being developed but at least give your customers a heads up so they are not left in frustration and in the dark about it. I wouldn’t mind if it took 5-6 months a year or whatever. I bought it nearly a year ago and it does zilch more than the other two from previous gen I own.
  20. I've got such a port in my MSI z87-g45 gaming motherboard, I'm still running with the quite competent i7 4790k :)
  21. I'd be interested in knowing this too. By the way, who the hell has a PS/2 port on their PC still?
  22. Hi all Let me start by saying I've never used the flirc v2 before, I'm looking for a bit of guidance. What I am trying to do: My idea was to connect the flirc to the ps/2 port in my PC, cause my motherboard only allows me to power on the PC from s5(complete shutdown) via ps/2. Via USB I can only wake it from S3. So, here's my question, has anyone tried connecting the Flirc v2 via a ps/2 to female USB adapter and getting it to work ? Thanks a lot.
  23. I was considering buying the USB FLIRC to transmit IR commands as well, but apparently there are a lot of people having trouble getting it to work, so unless I can find some decent documentation, I guess I'll wait, or just cobble together an IR blaster on a breadboard.
  24. Hi there I have the same behaviour with a panasonic vieja TV. Five month ago, i tried to setup FLIRC for my HTPC with Logitech Harmony Hub. I gave up after some crazy sessions trying to configure the device. Today i try to setup Flirc for Libreelec on PI4, same behaviour. The setup was impossible because of ghost events. FLIRC debug IR mode receive tons of signals. I was becoming mad when i search for the device responsible of it, i finally try setup on laptop and not on HTPC and when i turned off my TV there was no more ghost IR signal received. The odd thing is when there's no direct path between TV and FLIRC, it reflects on glass (windows, small table with glass on it, mirrors). @Polarfox when Jason talk about backlight i think it's not light behind TV but a technique where a light straighten image behind front screen (so a light send towards you). I will make setup with tv off and try to use FLIRC with TV on. Then if FLIRC don't work correctly trying to put it in an opaque pipe to see if i can get it better. Best regards PS : TV model used is TX-P50VT30E EDIT: I just tried what i suggest above : FLIRC Setup : OK with the pipe and TV ON FLIRC Use with nothing : Fail, flirc unusable, 1 of 10 try on the same command is caught by the FLIRC, 0 received for some other commands. FLIRC Use with a long pipe and a cover : OK, works perfectly even if remote is not exactly aiming directly into the tube So i will think of smaller pipe to see if i can get it work. @jason do you think of a way to ignore ghost events ? Is it possible to decrease FLIRC sensibility ? if not possible actually can it be a firmware improvment ? Best regards
  25. Thanks. That was testing on one of the 3.0 ports on the Pi. I'll poke around some myself and see if I can figure anything out kernel side.
  26. There is a bug in the upstream kernel. Do your pairing on another machine. I don’t have time to debug the kernel. The Kernel is dropping USB packets. I’ve got a ton of debug logs that show it on the wire ,and the kernel stack never gets it. The remedy is to slow down communication to the USB device. It’s possible to just push an update (which will have to be done on another machine), and the USB poll time increases and slows it down to fix it. But It slows it down considerably. If you use the blue port on the pi, it has a phy in front of it, and doesn’t help mitigate it completely, but helps a lot.
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