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Double Key Presses


VanSmak

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Just received my flirc with 1.0 firmware and installed with the .97 software, I'm experiencing issues with XBMC (Pre-Eden), after programming my Harmony Remote (Device: MCE Keyboard). I need to press every key twice before it will register with XBMC. Any advice?

Running Windows 7 x64

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Just received my flirc with 1.0 firmware and installed with the .97 software, I'm experiencing issues with XBMC (Pre-Eden), after programming my Harmony Remote (Device: MCE Keyboard). I need to press every key twice before it will register with XBMC. Any advice?

Running Windows 7 x64

Hey VanSmak, There is a strange issue with these certain remotes. I will eventually fine tune this with the firmware. Basically, the remote sends out a unique key code every other consecutive key press, for the same physical button.

The quick remedy to this is to record each button twice, and "catch" each unique key code for every button. Let us know if that does the trick.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

The so-called strange issue seems to be part of the RC6 protocol (little bit of research on Google led right to it). The last transmitted bit is a toggle bit that allows the receiver to distinguish multiple key presses. I hope you can correct the firmware and/or the GUI soon - the workaround to program keys will be pretty tedious and will be hit and miss. I have been having good results except for this issue.

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eskro, I didn't see where MCE remotes were not suggested. Actually I find that suggestion a little unreasonable as this device is intended for "your PC media center" according to the front page of the Flirc website.

I just tried an old Sony DVD remote; mapped the keys to FLIRC and it worked shockingly better. However, the Windows media center remotes should be supported because they will have close to the appropriate keys for a media center. Until then Flirc team, how about a more prominent warning about the type of remotes supported.

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Until then Flirc team, how about a more prominent warning about the type of remotes supported.

I think this is more than fair enough. Though it is hard to achieve this simply.

To elaborate on this issue with MCE remotes, it's basically due to non-standard i/r frequencies.

So a warning would have to be very technical (i.e. frequencies outside of 38kHz may not work as expected) - how would you know that about your remote(?)

Or name specific remotes (At the moment Microsoft remote - MCE, XBOX remotes) - of which it would be difficult to list all of them.

I'll leave it it up to Jason (as it's his project), but mjkuwp94 does raise a valid point.

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I am guessing the issue isn't the 38kHz nominal. A Sony remote worked really well and is likely at 40kHz. The Media center remote is 36kHz. I *assume* Flirc uses a 38kHz receiver nominal so it would still have sensitivity for for the other modulation frequencies used.

I have been testing the remotes with an Arduino board, an IR receiver breakout board from Sparkfun and a library by Ken Shirriff. I checked the modulation frequency with an oscilloscope. I am by no means an expert but unofficial information on the RC6 protocol seems to be readily available. For my solution, I am simply going to find a Sony universal remote and give up on the Windows media center remotes (or any Phillips RC6 protocol remote?). It will be far quicker and easier for me to solve the problem that way. It doesn't change my assertion that the Flirc product should support those remotes. Not to get too far off topic... but a big reason I am sticking with the Flirc is the fact it can wake up my HTPC from USB.

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I'll leave it it up to Jason (as it's his project), but mjkuwp94 does raise a valid point.

it is indeed a valid point...

one might think FLIRC's bulletproof but in fact,

as it is today, its not...

not necessarely FLIRC's fault but,

since we encourage users not to plan on using FLIRC with a windows MCE/RC6 remote,

that should be appear somewhere on the main website...

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@mjkuwp94

As mentioned by everyone, your concerns are extremely valid. I'm using if not the same, but an extremely similar IR receiver you mentioned on sparkfun.

You actually won't be able to tell the modulation frequency with that specific part. The output of this part is a noise free, demodulated signal from the received IR signal. If you point your remote at this part, and shoot, you will be able to receive the output on your scope because 56kHz is still within the wide frequency band of the on part filter. However, when passing through the AGC, it could have unpredicted results on the output which will show up as jitter, or worse. You can try this experiment by looking at the output and comparing your scope shot next to the IR receiver, and again when emitting a signal from the other side of the room, where the frequency effects would be more exaggerated.

My algorithm will be fine tuned in the future for this, and eliminate the need for double recording (is that your primary concern?). But overall, I have to play a lot of tricks in order for this RC6 protocol to work which is outside the specified 38kHz center frequency of my receiver.

All this being said, there are some RC6 protocols which are 38kHz, in which the only problem would be the double presses issue, in which you would need to record your button twice. If this truly what you are seeing, how is the performance of your flirc when you have done so? I've often found RC6, regardless, doesn't seem as solid.

Thanks so much mjkuwp94.

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Just realized I was not complete or detailed enough in my earlier post - sorry!

I also have a Tek 2235 Analog scope and a DSO Nano and a bare IR Receiver Diode. These parts are what I used to measure the modulation frequency. The DSO Nano waveforms can be captured and analyzed on the PC and I think the Nano just barely does have enough bandwidth to pick up the modulation.

I get your point about the jitter and if I get some time I will re-measure the modulation frequency on my two 'Windows' remotes which are actually HP and Rosewill brand. My home theater components are Panasonic and Sony so it seems I will have good luck if I use some other remote controls.

I think the biggest thing I was reacting to is that the front page of FLIRC makes it very clear in capital letters that ANY remote will work though this is not totally accurate. Leaving out all remotes designed for Windows MCE seems like a big hole.

I had initially planned to do my remote integration with Arduino and the Ken Shirriff library but the deeper I get I see I don't have enough time for this. I am sticking with Flirc for now and will either use a Sony universal remote or pick up a Harmony remote since it seems those are highly endorsed by the community.

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Just realized I was not complete or detailed enough in my earlier post - sorry!

I also have a Tek 2235 Analog scope and a DSO Nano and a bare IR Receiver Diode. These parts are what I used to measure the modulation frequency. The DSO Nano waveforms can be captured and analyzed on the PC and I think the Nano just barely does have enough bandwidth to pick up the modulation.

I get your point about the jitter and if I get some time I will re-measure the modulation frequency on my two 'Windows' remotes which are actually HP and Rosewill brand. My home theater components are Panasonic and Sony so it seems I will have good luck if I use some other remote controls.

I think the biggest thing I was reacting to is that the front page of FLIRC makes it very clear in capital letters that ANY remote will work though this is not totally accurate. Leaving out all remotes designed for Windows MCE seems like a big hole.

I had initially planned to do my remote integration with Arduino and the Ken Shirriff library but the deeper I get I see I don't have enough time for this. I am sticking with Flirc for now and will either use a Sony universal remote or pick up a Harmony remote since it seems those are highly endorsed by the community.

Thanks so much for the reply. Yes, I agree with you, and I'll make this a priority. I started doing some homework, I'm going to try and get to the bottom of this over the next few weeks. I didn't quite follow if it was broken for you entirely, or if you just needed to do as the thread suggested and record multiple times.

I don't use a traditional way of 'clocking in ir'. Without going into detail too much detail, it wont be as easy as adjusting for the last extra bit, but will require a good amount of work in my firmware.

Thanks again.

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The HP and Rosewill remotes designed for WMC (Windows Media Center) both worked the same way. After matching commands to Flirc, they worked but - not really. I eventually figured out that approximately only every other keypress did anything. After further research, this thread included I figured out the issue seemed to be the toggle bit.

At one point, I reached the maximum memory of the Flirc so I wasn't too thrilled with the idea of programming each button twice and so I never gave that a good try. I may try again if I find some time - no promises.

Would I need to go through the entire button programming sequence twice? Like:

Press play on Flirc GUI

Press Play on MCE remote

Press play on Flirc GUI

Press Play on MCE remote

?

I can see how that might work but it sure seems tedious and also would it take up double the normal memory? It would be much nicer if you could somehow use the desktop application (gui) to decode the remote protocol and assist with the Flirc programming. It could then recognize the RC6 protocol and prompt the user to press the key two additional times, for example.

I admit after reading a few of the protocol specs, my head is totally spinning. I didn't anticipate these things would be so complicated.

One more thing - I checked the modulation frequency on both my MCE remotes again. I came up with 36 kHz again. I used the DSO Nano - I have to set the timebase so that I just see the very beginning of the command and also scale and offset the voltage (essentially zooming way in) but then the ripple is extremely easy to see.

It doesn't matter to me personally what priority you put on something like this. I am sure it will help the project in the long run but for me I want results very soon so I am trying a combination of Sony remotes and Harmony 300.

I do like the Flirc concept a lot and that is why I was willing to abandon the MCE remotes in the short term.

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follow up.

yes, I found that if I do the routine of programming each MCE button twice then I get good results. As I mentioned above it's not so fun but maybe i am lazier than most!

one issue I can think of is that with this routine some applications will not respond correctly to fast-forward commands. I recall that sometimes one press is 1X forward speed, 2 presses is 2X forward, etc. I didn't test it but I guess the end user (application) will not be able to respond correctly.

btw, you can see in another thread that I am using a keypress application in Windows provided by user NJKA to do the testing.

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follow up.

yes, I found that if I do the routine of programming each MCE button twice then I get good results. As I mentioned above it's not so fun but maybe i am lazier than most!

one issue I can think of is that with this routine some applications will not respond correctly to fast-forward commands. I recall that sometimes one press is 1X forward speed, 2 presses is 2X forward, etc. I didn't test it but I guess the end user (application) will not be able to respond correctly.

btw, you can see in another thread that I am using a keypress application in Windows provided by user NJKA to do the testing.

Thanks for the followup, I'm going to get this resolved in a firmware update.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Another option is to adjust the "Keyboard Properties" "Repeat rate" setting.

From the Windows 7 Start menu type "keyboard" and select "Keyboard" under the "Control Panel" group

In the "Keyboard Properties" dialog that appears adjust the "Repeat delay" & "Repeat rate" sliders until the problem goes away.

Note this dialog effects all Keyboard Devices attached not just the Flirc device.

You may also experience this problem with Harmony remotes depending on what your "Inter-key Deley" delay is set too.

Neal

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  • 3 months later...

I'm getting this issue too, I'm using Ubuntu 11.10, XBMC Eden. Programmed Flirc on a Win XP SP3 32 bit AMD powered machine. Only every second keypress actually works. My remote flashes to say it's sent the signal, but Flirc doesn't respond until I press it again. Makes scrolling up/down a bit of a pain!

EDIT: Problem solved!

Edited by Cheule
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  • 5 months later...

well having the exact same issues with a raspberry pi and using flirc with a Samsung remote it works fine after I plugged it in the first time, but as soon as I do a reboot it does a double key press again.

I used:

Raspberry Pi

Samsung remote

Flirc V1 with 0.96 program version

XBMC setup

I did the record twice thing but it doesn't seem to do the trick.

It would be a nice option if you could add a keystroke delay in the program so it gets stored in the module hopefully that could solve the problems.

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Just wanted to let it be known. I had this problem with having to record every button twice with my remote. It's not a harmony, or any kind of fancy remote, it's just the remote that came with my TV. Managed to fix them all, except the Enter key. That one is crazy. I programmed the first one in, then when I go to do the second time in, it either just undoes the recording, doesn't say it was stopped or that it was recorded successfully it just quits, or it will say it's already been recorded. And I know it's not recording the second code because I'm having to press it twice every time I want to select something.

MitsLT40134_Remote.gif

Pretty slick TV remote though huh. I made "Input" my back button, it's a lot easier to reach than "Exit".

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  • 2 years later...

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