Jump to content
Flirc Forums
Andaho

Problems getting it to work properly - Best device to program One For All remote with?

Recommended Posts

I use a one for all essence 4 remote, and have problems with getting flirc (v2) to work reliably on my Fire TV (newest gen).

  • Sometimes there's a delay after pressing buttons,
  • Holding buttons doesn't repeat - when using kodi and scrolling through lists I have to fiercely tap buttons dozens of times,
  • Even with the newest firmware, buttons sometimes send a double press.
  • When programming the remote with the "Fire TV" profile, the select button doesn't work in kodi when selecting files to play - it brings up some kind of context menu, rather than just playing the file - however, it does navigate through folders and menus ok. (so I program it using full keyboard, using space as pause - but then pause doesn't work in netflix)
  • Lastly and most annoyingly, sometimes the flirc just seems to stop working, and the only way to get it working again is to unplug/replug. - I can sometimes replicate the problem when constantly and quickly pressing buttons to scroll through lists - it's like it gets overloaded with the amount of presses I'm sending, and dies - but at other times, it just dies for no reason - e.g. I'll be watching a marathon of a show, and when an episode finishes, I'll try to select the next episode, and find it's not working.

This is the second flirc I have had these problems with - I sent my first flirc back for a replacement because of these issues (bought from The Pi Hut, UK), but the replacement does exactly the same thing - so it's obviously not a faulty unit.

I'm hoping that most of these problems are to do with the codes I've tried to program the remote with, and could be resolved by programming the remote as a different device? - I've tried a few different codes: 1708 (xbox), 1272 (media centre remote), 0533 (sony dvd), 0490 (panasonic dvd), but none of them fix the problems...

So, what I'm basically asking is...

What device remote is the most reliable/stable and most compatible to program my one for all remote as?
Or even better, which code should I use on my one for all remote?

NOTE: I've also tried different remotes (Sky+ TV remote, and a Panasonic TV remote), but they had the same problems - so my one for all remote isn't the problem. To be thorough, I use a short USB extension cable on the Fire TV (because it's hidden from view), but pulling my fire tv out from behind the TV, and plugging the flirc in directly makes no difference.

http://www.oneforall.co.uk/urc7140-essence-4.html (the remote I have)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't have a Samsung TV then you can try 2051 in TV mode. On that code both v1 and v2 work really well. It uses NECx2 protocol which works really well with Flirc.

I don't know how well do you know your remote, but if you don't want to use TV device slot on your remote for Flirc, then you can switch any other device slot to a TV mode (this means you can use codes for TVs on that slot). To do that you can use 9xx codes: http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=992

Just replace SETUP button with Magic button, and when there's an info to tap a specific device button then select the slot using Device button and confirm with Magic.

For example, if you want to use a TV code on DVD slot, then use following sequence:

  1. Hold Magic for few seconds, until one of the device slots blink 2 times and stay lit.
  2. Enter 992 (the led should blink 2 times after entering last digit).
  3. Using device button, select TV slot and press Magic.
  4. Using device button, select DVD slot and press Magic (the led should blink 2 times after that operation).

After that you can select DVD slot, hold down the Magic button then when in programming mode, enter 2051. If you want to reset DVD slot to a DVD codes repeat the same sequence but in step 3 also select DVD slot (so 2 times the same slot).

This works the same way on my OFA Smart Control.

Also on v2, when you record a button, please hold it a little longer. Flirc v2 analyses the delay between signal repeats and saves that value along the button and key info.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the detailed reply! Yes, I am aware how to change the device mode, but very useful info for other readers :)

It's not a Samsung TV I have, so I will try code 2051... It's very helpful that you know the device code to recommend! :)

Once I find the time (and the motivation) to reprogram everything (I have 2 identical remotes - one beside the sofa and one by the computer desk) I'll report back to let you know how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It took me a while to get around to trying this new code, mostly because I didn't have much faith that it would work (after trying a few other codes unsuccessfully)...

But I'm reporting back to say that IT WORKS!

Of my bullet points above, the first 4 are definitely fixed by using my remote programmed as a Samsung TV (code 2051) - Thank you again yawor! - It's awesome to finally have flirc working as it's supposed to!

Now only time will tell if my final bullet point of it randomly stopping responding is sorted too... I hope it is! - It does seem that all these problems were just due to using 'less compatible' and troublesome codes.

As a suggestion, you should make a point of recommending the most compatible devices/codes - I imagine there are a lot of users that have a universal remote like myself, and have also struggled by having it programmed with a troublesome code.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Andaho I'm always recommending a Samsung TV remote :). This can also be any other device which uses either NECx1 or NECx2 protocols. They are simple (both have the same structure, NECx2 differs in that it also have a subdevice id in addition to only device id in NECx1 - so more possible, non-conflicting codes). In comparison to NEC1 and NEC2 (without "x") they also use full frame repeat (when you hold the remote button down, it sends the same signal over and over again) where NEC (without "x") protocols use only a special repeat short signal.

Do you use RemoteMaster software with your remote? I think your remote doesn't have the serial port exposed and needs to be opened to access the port. But this gives a lot of possibilities. You can edit almost anything in your remote, even create your own device profiles, where you can select everything from the protocol to a code each of the buttons sends out. I don't know if there's an extender for your remote (a piece of additional software you can install in it to give it additional capabilities like long press etc).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd found this page before: https://support.flirc.tv/hc/en-us/articles/203392079--Universal-Remote-Control-brand-remote-controls - hence why I had tried the Sony DVD code 0533 - but it was one I had problems with - an update to that support article with the info you've provided here would surely be of good help to others.

My OneForAll Essence does have those jumpers under the battery cover :D - cool to know about RemoteMaster, I had always wondered what those jumpers were for, but for now I'm just happy that it's working properly :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I know. The documentation is lacking in a lot of areas. But @jason (the single guy behind creating and working on Flirc) has to split his time between his family and Flirc and I'm just helping here on the forum in my free time. I'm thinking about starting making some more robust documentation but this requires a lot of time to do it well. Also, I don't have edit access to the support articles (also not much time at the moment to edit them anyway). There was another guy (@Chris!) who helped a lot here on the forum and sorted a lot of support articles but he's not been active for quite some time now :(.

You should be able to add comments on the support articles, so you're free to do so. This also helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now only time will tell if my final bullet point of it randomly stopping responding is sorted too... I hope it is! - It does seem that all these problems were just due to using 'less compatible' and troublesome codes.

Just quick update - It's been been a week and this hasn't happened since (would usually have happened a few times in a normal week), so all problems fixed by just using the right code.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×