Jump to content
Flirc Forums

Unable to record button presses


Super Paul

Recommended Posts

As the title states, I am unable to record any button presses via the GUI.  I have tried multiple USB ports on two different computers (one PC, and one Mac), and more than one remote control.

In all cases, the UI says to "press the button to be paired", and no matter what I press, nothing registers.  I assume the Flirc itself is faulty, but I'm hoping there's something simple I'm missing.

The device is recognized fine by both machines, and has the drivers installed and identifying the device properly.  I also cleared the configuration and forced the installation of the latest firmware (which was already on the Flirc).

Windows 10 Ent., and OS X El Capitan are the OSes I'm trying with.  Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Yawor,

Thanks for the reply.  I tried a Harmony 300, as well as a Harmony 900.  Both were configured as MCE Keyboards.  Shouldn't the Flirc be detecting a button press of ANY remote in the vicinity, regardless of type?  Even if the result would be wrong, I thought it would at least detect and record the button press.  In my case, the Flirc UI says "press the button to be paired" endlessly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think that something like MCE Keyboard is a good device to troubleshoot if Flirc is working properly. Please try with some other, more standard device profiles. There are a dedicated Harmony profiles for Flirc built-in profiles (the built-in profiles can be disabled and you can re-record the keys your way). You can also use profiles for some RTV equipment.

There are some hardware limitations in the Flirc that causes issues with some strange RC schemes that can range from detecting multiple buttons as being the same (despite having different functions) to not being detected at all (if the base carrier frequency is too far away from the supported 38kHz).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Yawor,

I have tried with two separate MCE remotes as well.  One made by Rosewill, and the other an unidentified brand.  Neither register anything with the Flirc.  Surely this is hardware failure with the USB dongle itself?  These remotes worked fine in the past with a different IR dongle and my Raspberry Pi.  It can't be possible that four separate remotes happen to not work with the Flirc.

Thanks for your help so far.

Edited by Super Paul
Spelling.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you at least try with something else than MCE? A lot of MCE remotes are using 56kHz carrier frequency which won't work with Flirc. You probably have some remote for TV or something else that can be used for testing purposes. Also you have Harmony remotes so you can use Harmony software to add some device like LG or Samsung TV as one of the devices and use that for tests. You can also use Harmony software to add Flirc/Kodi (or Flirc/XBMC) profile. If you have built-in profiles option enabled in Flirc GUI (advanced settings) then you can test Flirc even without recording anything. It should respond right away (for example a direction buttons on the remote should be mapped to arrow keys already).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Yawor,

I went ahead and configured a Flirc/Kodi device on my Harmony 300.  Furthermore I've tried two different TV remotes.  None of these register any sort of key-press during the recording stage.

I understand what your'e saying about using a built-in profile, but I don't think that matters, as it appears the Flirc itself is not registering any IR signals.  With the Flirc plugged into my PC (it should behave as a keyboard as is my understanding) with a random text file open, I press arrow keys on any of the six or so remotes I've tried with, and I am getting no results.

Unfortunately it seems like this particular Flirc unit is DOA.  If you don't have any further ideas, I'll be sending it back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For anybody following along, I wanted to offer some closure.  I returned my Flirc, and ordered a replacement.  The replacement worked exactly as expected right out of the box, so the first unit must have been defective.

I'm not sure if there is a way to mark a thread "Solved" but if any mods wish to, feel free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...