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Found 6 results

  1. Hello, well, I'm sure this has been gone on over and over again with various posters so I'll cut to the chase. I've followed the instructions here: And But naturally, pressing that button on my MCE remote does nothing. The other buttons work fine through Kodi as they do for most other people with this problem. For reference I am using a VIA EPIA M920 and the firmware version is already 3.8.0 Any other information needed?
  2. Hello, I just wanting say I had purchased the Flirc Gen2 USB and I'm proudly to say it an excellent device which I'm using with my HTPC build machine. I want to point out, however, with the Flirc software (version 2.6.4 & previous versions) - when using the Kodi (under Controllers in Flirc GUI), the shutdown is not register to the Inteset INT-422-3 remote power button. I just happen to find out when using Kodi 17. (on a Windows 10 HTPC build ) and when attempt to shutown with the Inteset remote, there is no respond - that when I check the setting in the Flirc GUI to verified all of Kodi buttons are mapped correctly to the Inteset remote (422-3). Is this something you can look into with the Flirc software - I suspect it must be a bug. Thanks. mTECHIE
  3. Just bought a usb flirc receiver, and here's my versions of stuff: Flirc GUI v1.4.4 Flirc driver v3.0.6.0 In the GUI, File > Advanced > [x] Sleep Detection is enabled. In Controllers > Full Keyboard, I mapped a signal to the Wake key. When the computer goes to sleep, pressing that button (or any other mapped flirc signal for that matter, e.g. arrow keys, enter, etc.) has no effect whatsoever. So I opened the device manager and looked at libusbK USB Devices > flirc and saw that there was no Power Management tab. Then I looked under Keyboards to see four entries labeled HID Keyboard Device. All four of them have Power Management > [x] Allow this device to wake the computer enabled. I tried disconnecting flirc, and one if the keyboards disappeared. I figured out which of them was flirc's keyboard entry and double-checked that device-wake was enabled (it is). Since none of that worked, I opened PowerShell (x86) as an administrator and ran powercfg -devicequery wake_from_any and saw flirc along with a lot of other device names. Then I ran powercfg -devicequery wake_armed and saw this much shorter list: PS C:\Windows\system32> powercfg -devicequery wake_armed HID Keyboard Device HID-compliant mouse HID Keyboard Device (001) Killer E2400 Gigabit Ethernet Controller HID-compliant mouse (001) HID Keyboard Device (002) HID-compliant mouse (002) HID Keyboard Device (003) I then tried to enable wake for flirc with disappointing results: PS C:\Windows\system32> powercfg -deviceenablewake flirc You do not have permission to enable or disable device wake. (I tried the above with the 32bit PowerShell as well, just in case, but with identical results.) I can't find any settings related to wake from USB in my BIOS, but I enabled Power On By Keyboard (with any key), Power On By Mouse (with any movement), and Platform Power Management for good measure. That said, since I can already wake from suspend by plugging in an actual USB keyboard and pressing any key, so I don't see how any of that would help anyway. Also, for what it's worth, powering on a steam controller does wake the computer from sleep. But I bought this flirc receiver for the sole purpose of being able to wake my computer with my remote control as well, so it'd be really nice if it did that. Can you think of anything I haven't tried? Much appreciated, Matt
  4. Last night -- right after I got my Int-422 working for my wife -- I had to reboot our Amazon Fire. I was extremely dismayed when I discovered that Flirc had lost all of the mapping I had done! Then I thought, well that sucks, but I'll just reload the configuration profile I just saved, no problem. So I tried that, and the Flirc software stated that it was loaded successfully, but when I plugged the Flirc back into the Fire, none of the buttons would work the way they did before I rebooted the Amazon Fire. It seems to me that, if Flirc can retain my profile while moving it from my Amazon Fire to my laptop programming the keys, that it wouldn't forget all of the previous mapping I did when I rebooted the Amazon Fire? If anyone could shed some light on this, that'd be great. Reprogramming the remote every time is not feasible, especially because it takes so long to program the Fire because it requires using a number of different profiles. I am aware of the default Amazon profile, but it doesn't work for me; I've tried a number of times. EDIT: I have the newest Flirc and the newest Flirc software.
  5. Hi all, Just got a Flirc-SE and so far so good. Using a Harmony Ultimate remote (also iPad app), PC mother board is Asus Formula VIII. I can boot the PC from S5 mode no problems but I can't seem to power off to S5. The power button assign in the iPad app (red power button) send the PC to S3 mode. So how do I get the button to go to S5 mode. Thanks
  6. Hi: I discovered this amazing product about a month ago. The best thing I like about the Flirc is that the HTPC is programmed to the remote's output, and not vice-versa like "universal remotes" are set up. This means that the smarts are where they belong - in the PC. I thought I would share the hurdles I had in setting up a unit the way I wanted it to run, and how I got around them. A couple words of warning - this is a little DIY. I CAN IN NO WAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RESULTS OR OUTCOME OF THIS PROJECT. If you proceed to follow these directions - you do so at your own risk, My system is custom built like most enthusiasts. It is nothing special except that it has a very porous case with lots of cooling. I do this because I have 12 TB of storage for all my movies, songs and what not. I've lost a lot of equipment in the past by letting it overheat, and that has been painful. This setup can be kind of noisy and collect a lot of dust, so I have it in a cooled entertainment center cabinet behind glass - and therein lies the problem. As you know, IR equipment does not like to work through glass. Even the BEST remotes I could find were only 85% reliable through it. In addition, the USB dongle Flirc offers did not have the ability to turn the system on and off via the IR remote from the S5 state, which meant that I STILL HAD to open the door to turn the unit on. I still wanted to use a Flirc, but I needed a receiver that could be placed away from the system outside the cabinet. Enter the Flirc SE (http://www.streacom.com/products/flirc-se-adaptive-ir-receiver/). This is a version of the Flirc made for Streacom Cases. It is a simple circuit board with the IR receiver elements on it and a couple of header connectors - AND IT HAS THE ABILITY TO ACTIVATE THE PC POWER SYSTEM. So with the Flirc SE, an old power supply box, a couple of 10 ft USB 2.0 cables (Type A Male to anything else), and an external power bracket, I was able to build something that fit my needs. STEP 1: I stripped the old Toshiba power supply keeping only the box. Pick a box which has a good size window for the IR receiver/transmitter elements in the Flirc. In addition you'll need the Flirc, a couple of 10 foot USB cables, an external power bracket, and some odds and ends including some colored acetate for the window, Epoxy, and a small standoff/other means of holding the circuit board in place. STEP 2: Epoxy the standoff in the box so that the Flirc elements are in the window and you can get at the header connectors after assembly. Set it aside to dry well. STEP 3: You'll need to be good at soldering here - The Flirc SE comes with some cords that help with installation. We will need to use the connectors from these cords. Remove the miniature ends from the 10 ft USB cord and the header connectors that came with cords on the Flirc SE, and solder the two together. CAUTION: Be sure to follow the color code/pinout standards FOR USB that can be found throughout the web. This will be how the Flirc will communicate the normal IR commands to the Flirc software. This will give you a 10 Ft. cord with a 4 pin Female USB header connector on one end and a Type A USB male connector on the other. STEP 4: Remove the ends from the 2nd USB cord and the power switch cord that came With the Flirc SE, and solder them together. The correct wiring diagram can be found at the Strecom website above under user manuals section. CAUTION: Be sure to keep track of the Positive (+) and Negative(-) terminals all the way through to the connection to the motherboard. For my setup, I used some old Molex ® connectors I had around to match the multi-Molex ® external power bracket I had already installed for some fans in an empty slot. This will give you a 10 Ft. cord with a 4 pin Female header connector on one end and (in my case) Molex connector on the other. STEP 5: Assemble the box. Be sure the tie knots in the USB cable just inside the box for strain relief. STEP 6: Wire the inside of the computer. One pair of the power switch leads from the Flirc power plug will go the computer's power switch, the other pair will go to the motherboard. CAUTION: Be sure to observe polarity throughout if there is one marked. STEP 7: Download and install the latest Flirc software and firmware. At this point in time, you will have to run the "flirc_util" command line software to record the key you wish to press to turn power on and off. That information can be found by searching out "flirc_util.exe record power" elsewhere in the forum. Please see the attached photos. Hopefully they'll help. You'll see I have an iRainey pictured here, but it doesn't matter WHAT remote you use. You're free to use any remote you want! That's about all I can think of. I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but this one worked for me, and it was FUN! Good Luck! JoeA
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