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yawor

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Everything posted by yawor

  1. The problem here is that Windows hides raw HID codes from the apps in the system and translates them to keyboard scan codes itself. So applications really don't know what physical key has been pressed on the keyboard as it already went through key map selected in the system. Flirc stores and sends raw HID codes to the USB host so it needs to know them, not the keyboard scan codes. So at least on Windows it can't work the way you described. I don't know if it could be done on Linux or Mac, but changes are it could be possible at least on Linux. But "newbes" usually use Windows or OS X as their OS. I agree that this should be mentioned in the product description in every shop selling Flirc. Chris! started a thread asking people to write down what problems they've bumped into when they started using Flirc and the hope is this will lead to better documentation. You can help yourself here
  2. You should be able to map any button. Just look at physical layout of the keys: which row and which key in a row (counting from left or right). If the M key on AZERTY is a semicolon ";" on US QUERTY, then the "ù" key on AZERTY is a single/double quote key on US QWERTY. European layouts are little different as the enter key is narrow and takes two rows. Because of that one key (backslash "\") is moved from above enter to between enter and single/double quote on European QWERTY keyboards (like Polish QWERTY keyboard). You should be able to map "*" on AZERTY by mapping the backslash key "\" (that above enter key) in GUI. I think that multi-layout support in GUI is doable but it's a lot of work and Jason is a single person who does it all. I think that right now the keyboard view is all graphical, so different layouts would require different graphic representations and that would make the app big really fast. Or maybe other layouts could use a simpler view of the keyboard with symbol layouts overlayed on top of the flat and empty key graphics. That way layouts could be defined as text files (ini or some other config forms) and not take so much space.
  3. Hi, Read this thread I've tried to describe there how to do this in details. But a quick answer is, if you use Flirc GUI, don't look at which symbol is on the key but the actual key position on the keyboard. So if you have letter A where there is a letter Q in QWERTY layout and you want to record a remote button for letter A, you need to record a button for Q, not A. So you look on your hardware keyboard how to get something you want and you record for this combination of keys (not symbols) in the GUI.
  4. I don't know how advanced is the firmware in this remote but you can usually change button to function assignment in URC/OFA remotes using special 9xx codes: http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual_Programming_-_9xx_Commands Look for the Key Mover. It is operated by using code 994. It has multiple uses but the one you should be interested in now is this http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=Program_Effective_Function_Code_(EFC)_for_a_single_device I can't tell you which code you should use. You need to find one yourself by starting for example with 001 (or 00001 in case your remote requires 5-digit EFC) and go up to 255 (or 00255 - you don't need to go higher, it repeats the same codes again). So if you want to reprogram a Play button then you do: TAP a TV button PRESS and HOLD the MAGIC button until the LED flashes twice, then RELEASE. TAP 9 - 9 - 4. TAP the MAGIC button TYPE the 3 or 5 digit EFC code (for example 0-0-1 or 0-0-0-0-1) TAP the Play button There is a risk that the remote doesn't support Key Mover, then it will just ignore the 994 code. You need to try which EFC code is not duplicating other keys. Every key in the default config has some EFC code. You should not have any problem finding one that is not already on the other buttons as you only has 30 something buttons and there are 255 EFC codes in total for a selected device.
  5. For future reference the best codes are the ones for TV receivers, especially for newer models. Those usually have all the remote buttons mapped to something in the receiver. I'm using code for Samsung TV in my URC-6440. I could read what is the exact code from the remote but it won't be compatible with your remote.
  6. Win+ESC is just alternate key combo ☺. No need to map both.
  7. Very nice finds. Here is a list of HID usage tables and codes: http://www.freebsddiary.org/APC/usb_hid_usages.php. The codes are given in hex format so you need to convert from/to decimal. The code 140 (0x8C hex) in table 12 you've found to do something is defined as Media Select Telephone so it would probably work on phones and invoke dialer app. On the other hand I think I've just found the working key combination for invoking Home. It works at least for me on the Acer tablet. First go in the GUI into File->Advanced in the menu and check Sequence Modifiers option. Then record Alt+Esc or Win+Esc for Home button and Win+Space for Search button. Give it a try and let me know.
  8. I have an old Acer A500 tablet at home which has a normal USB A port. I only had time to do a quick test and I couldn't get any response from Flirc using my custom configuration. I've also confirmed that the media home button on a normal USB keyboard works properly with the tablet. I have another Flirc which is not being used right now so I'll do some tests with it later.
  9. You should not be able to record the same key again without deleting it before recording again. My last suggestion is for you to try all codes from 1 to 255 (second number still 102). I know that this may take some time. Maybe save your current config from the GUI or command line, then erase Flirc and start recording starting from code 1 102 and increment for all available buttons on the remote (remember which code for which button). Then try all the buttons with Android TV and if you don't find the Home button then erase again and start from next code after the one you recorded in previous round.
  10. Have you tried some European shops? Maybe there is at least one that ships to Belarus. http://www.flirc.tv/distributors/
  11. Can you try with flirc_util record_api 11 102 ? This is what I'm getting on HID interface when pressing Home media button on my Logitech keyboard. I've used EventGhost's Generid HID input plugin. It can't read input from keys in the HID keyboard usage table (Windows captures this earlier with hid keyboard filter driver) but it sees media key presses which are in HID consumer usage table.
  12. Normally the record_api command in flirc_util.exe allows you to record a key with a modifier. The first number is a combination of modifiers (left/right shift/control/alt/windows) and the second is a USB HID key code of the key. There is a special case when the second number is 102. This tells Flirc to send a key code defined by a first number from different HID usage table. The code 154 then means a Media Select Home button. I'm not sure if this is the correct one so you need to check it yourself. I've described more in this thread:
  13. First of all it looks to me like you may have some problem with the power supply for your laptop. Those power supplies are using high frequency impulse transformers. If the stabilizer/filter in the PSU is faulty then it may pass the high frequency noise to the laptop over the wire which may be affecting Flirc. The fact that you don't get false IR signals when PSU is unplugged or you connect Flirc into desktop PC would confirm it. Flirc aside I would advise you to check that because this may create other problems with your laptop, even break something. Most laptops are using the same plug and socket so you could test it with a PSU from another laptop (just check if the voltage is the same on the PSU cases - most laptop PSU are using 19V output voltage). As for the remote you are testing: is it this motion control enabled one? I think it may work like the motion remote for LG - only power button is using IR transmitter, all other buttons, voice commands and motion control is using radio interface (Bluetooth in case of LG, I don't know what is being used in case of Samsung). That won't work with Flirc. If you have some other remote please test it with it. ---edit--- I've found this tutorial on how to pair the remote with Samsung TV When the pairing operation is in progress there is a brief moment that a Bluetooth icon appears on the TV which confirms that the remote is probably using Bluetooth to communicate with TV and is not sending any IR signals. You can confirm it by using digital camera (for example in your phone). Just point the remote at the camera and try pressing buttons. Digital cameras are sensitive to infrared so if there is some IR signal you should see bright flashes on the screen.
  14. Hi, Do you know how to use command line? There is an executable called flirc_util.exe in Flirc folder (on Windows) or just flirc_util under Linux and OS X. You can try running it like that: flirc_util.exe record_api 154 102 (remove .exe from the command name in case of Linux and OS X). After you press enter it will wait for a remote button to be pressed like in the GUI. Please let me know if this works.
  15. Hi, You need to wait for Jason to respond how to do the refund. In the mean time can you tell what environment are you in when trying to configure Flirc? What kind of lighting? Is there a plasma TV in the room? Those are potential sources of false IR your Flirc might be getting. If you have a laptop could you move to a different room or maybe even outside to check if you are still getting false IR signals?
  16. It may be using a similar protocol to MediaCenter remotes. The protocol in those remotes uses code cycling for each key so every key can have multiple codes that are cycled on each key press. There is a way for this remotes to work with Flirc. You need to record each button multiple times. For example if you want to record left arrow then you press on it in GUI and then the left arrow button on the remote and then you repeat it until you get error message that the key is already recorded. You need to do this for every button you want to map in Flirc. Also Jason recently discovered that you should not record buttons by pointing remote directly on Flirc from near distance. The remote should be at least 1 meter (about 3 feets) away from the Flirc and you can point it at the ceiling (Flirc will get a bounced signal). The thing is Flirc is very sensitive and if you record from very small distance then the signal is too strong and may be interpreted in a wrong way making problems with correctly recognizing it later. Let me know if anything has improved if you use these tips. As for the remote you linked to - I think that there should be no problem as this is an universal remote and you can select from multitude of remote configurations. The best way to utilize an universal remote is to use a code for TV receiver. It is known to work well with LG, Panasonic and Samsung codes for TV receivers so you just need to choose one which is different from your own TV.
  17. Hi. I see that this is a remote for a TV tuner card. I don't have any experience with using such remotes (I haven't had a TV card for a long time now) but they may use some unusual protocol making it hard for Flirc to work with. As for the new remote, OFA remotes are very nice and very configurable. There is even a whole community around those remotes on http://hifi-remote.com/forums where you can download an application to configure the remote from PC. I don't know how good is the remote you posted link to. You would need to search it on the forum. If you live in Europe I would suggest another OFA remote: URC-6440 (or One For All Simple 4). It's one of the newest the company made. It has button backlight and can be connected to computer using USB cable. It supports up to 4 devices by default, but we already have an extender (customized firmware) for it allowing up to 8 devices and an ability to shift any key (so you can attach two different functions for each key). I'm using it with my Flirc and it works great. ---edit--- BTW have you checked batteries in the TV card remote?
  18. Here is how it looks in my flat As you can see I have Flirc behind a wall and it works OK when I point remote at the TV. I can even close the doors between rooms (they have many small glass windows but the glass is not 100% transparent) and sensitivity drops only a little and then I need to point the remote more to the left (on the passage next to TV). As for your router I think there is no way that the original firmware would allow you to use Flirc with it and I couldn't find conclusive information if it is supported by OpenWRT.
  19. First of all is the Flirc below the "line of sight" when you take the IR signal bouncing from the wall in front of the couch? What I mean is you point the remote in the direction of the stereo and it bounces from the wall and goes back. If not you could use an USB extender cable to rise the Flirc higher so it can see the bounced signal. I have my Flirc out of the line of sight from the remote (actually in another room next to the one with TV) and I get 100% reception of the IR signal when pointing remote at the TV (it bounces of at least one wall). It also depends on the power of the remote's IR LED. Now to your question. Short answer: yes, it's possible with some amount of work. Long answer: It depends on the firmware of your router. Are you using OpenWRT or some other custom firmware? I'll base my answer on OpenWRT as it is most popular and open router firmware. There is a daemon (service) called triggerhappy. It's available in package repository for OpenWRT so it's installation should be easy but you need to be comfortable with using Linux terminal. Triggerhappy allows you to catch events from an input device (like keyboard) and execute your own scripts upon them. Next you would need some software or script on both devices (the router and the Mac) which would allow to push events over the network. I'm not familiar with Mac applications so I can't help you with this part. For Windows I would use EventGhost which has network input plugin (acts as a server and allows event generating clients to connect to it and push events to it). I also see a way to keep the wake key functionality. It requires the ability to wake the computer with Wake-on-LAN magic packet (most modern computers do) and just map the power button to wol command in the triggerhappy config.
  20. As I've mentioned in my post you can use the Flirc GUI app if you want. All you need to remember is to not to look at key labels in the GUI but the key position itself and match it to the hardware keyboard layout. So if you need to use Shift to get "1" then you need to select shift and 1 in the GUI etc. Just check what you need to press on your hardware keyboard and use the same key position and combination in the GUI.
  21. Which firmware version did you upgrade to? 3.1? I'm not using RaspBMC so I'm not sure what could be the problem. Jason have not released a Flirc software with downgrade capability yet. You would need to contact him directly via e-mail to get instructions on how to get your Flirc downgraded.
  22. Are you using an MCE remote? If yes then you need to record each button at least two times because the IR protocol used by MCE remote sends multiple different IR codes for each button on each press.
  23. Hi, Flirc can't just execute something in the OS by itself. You need some kind of application or script which will detect specific key press and then execute your script. All Flirc can do is to send key presses to the OS. Read about a Triggerhappy which is a global hotkey daemon for Linux. It works even outside of user session and doesn't require X to do its job.
  24. It seems that it uses IR so it may work but you need to wait until someone actually will use this combination or you need to check it yourself (and let us know) :).
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