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yawor

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Everything posted by yawor

  1. Just add some extra device profile to the Harmony and use Flirc GUI to map the new remote profile to PowerDVD keyboard shortcuts/hotkeys. It doesn't need to be Flirc profile. It can be a profile for example for some PVR or TV - just select one for a device you don't physically have.
  2. I've checked it with my Flirc using my universal remote with Kenwood upgrade file loaded and I don't get that behaviour. But there's always a possibility that the original remote is not 100% compliant with NEC1 protocol. Do you have a different remote you can test Flirc with? Can you test and check if you can reproduce the same results?
  3. Bootloader is never being updated. GUI shows bootloader version during firmware upgrade, because Flirc switches to alternative mode in which it can do the firmware upgrade. I don't know what's happening with Ubuntu recently. I don't have any installed right now to do some tests. I'm using Arch Linux (64bit). I've installed Flirc GUI 1.4.4 right now and upgraded firmware to 3.8. I've tested unplugging and plugging back Flirc into the USB port (different ports, both 2.0 and 3.0), closing the app, starting it again (with both Flirc plugged and unplugged) and everything is working fine. The zipped version you've downloaded is an older one which probably had a bug with firmware version detection - that's why it wants to update firmware every time you run the app. Maybe Canonical updated something in Ubuntu recently? I'll install Ubuntu 14.04 in VirtualBox later and check it. Unfortunately Jason (Flirc maker) doesn't provide stand-alone firmware binary file. The only way to upgrade is to run Flirc GUI.
  4. Maybe I've used wrong wording in my post (English is not my primary language :)). Writing "should" I've meant only that doing it this way you don't loose the pad when you upgrade your Pi in the future. From purely technical point of view (the way the head is transferred) there is no preferred way of placing the pad, but if you stick it to the CPU then the removal attempt may end in damaging the pad making it impossible to reuse it. I would go with 2 mm ones.
  5. You should be able to buy thermal pads in most computer/electronic stores. You can even buy a little thicker one, as CPU on RPi2 and RPi3 has lower profile than that on RPi B+, for which the case was originally designed. Also you should place the side with glue on the heat sink post in the case, not the CPU. Then you won't have an issue when replacing RPi board in the future.
  6. You can try doing it yourself (of course on your own responsibility). There has already been such a mod described on the forum. The problem is you can't feed Flirc micro-controller directly from IR repeater or Slingbox (using only electrical connection). Such repeaters are using high frequency signal which is the same as IR signal (with a carrier frequency of about 38 kHz in consumer devices). That signal first needs to be demodulated into a simple binary signal. Flirc uses an IR receiver chip which has the demodulator built-in and translates the IR signal into binary signal which is then given to and processed by the micro-controller. You could place an IR repeater diode next to the Flirc (possibly not very near, give it some space as Flirc is very sensitive). Also you don't need to place Flirc in direct sight of the remote. For example, mine is hidden behind the TV (it's plugged into a Raspberry Pi 2 in Flirc Pi Case, which is mounted on the back of the TV). There's no problem with IR reception at all.
  7. OK so the remote is not an issue. From the conf file you've provided I can confirm that the remote is using NEC1 protocol, so there shouldn't be any problems with it. Can you still cover whole Flirc with your hand when it repeats? To be sure there is no external light source interfering with it. Are you using a desktop PC or a laptop? Can you run different OS than Windows to check if it's an OS issue? This can even be some Live CD Linux. We've seen it a few times on the forum that poor (or lack of) ground connection caused Flirc to misbehave. If it's a laptop: Can you do the same test when it's unplugged from the external power supply? You could also try in a different room. If it's a desktop PC: Is the PC properly grounded? Do you have a possibility to use different computer? Possibly a laptop. You don't need to install Flirc software on another PC (it's only required for configuration).
  8. Are you sure it's not some problem with the remote? Does the Flirc still repeats the key even when you cover it or the remote (to block the signal from the remote in case it is the remote that keeps sending the signal)? You haven't mentioned how do you make it stop repeating the key. Also to be sure it's not a remote's issue you can point the remote at your phone's camera (or any other digital camera, as they are IR sensitive) and repeat the same sequence you've described above. You should see flashes every time you press the key. You can check whether the remote is constantly sending the signal after pressing the button third time or not. If the remote is behaving properly then it can be a problem with the protocol it uses. I'm trying to find some information about it, which IR protocol it uses, what frequency, but it's not easy. I've found an upgrade file for UEI remotes for Kenwood Head Units but it doesn't specify which ones. The upgrade file uses NEC1 protocol which should work very well with Flirc. But I can't confirm that your remote uses the same scheme (I don't know much about Kenwood Head Units and if there are other remotes than the one you have and if they are compatible with each other). Please first check the remote as I've described in the beginning. As for the second part, no, you can't map a single remote button to a key sequence. Flirc supports only combinations with modifier keys. You can't combine two non-modifier keys. Like you've said, EventGhost is the way to go if you want key sequences. Or you can alternatively use AutoHotKey (but I would also use EG).
  9. Yes, that's right. You also could use one that is in another room, but it all depends on how far away they are. I've had Flirc connected to a PC in one room and the PC was connected to the TV in another room using an HDMI extender. Both rooms are next to each other (connected by a single door) and I was still able to control the PC sitting in front of the TV. Flirc is really very sensitive. I'll always recommend using a profile for a device you don't physically have to minimize the chance of codes overlapping. There's always a chance that some buttons may overlap (even between different makers and models) but it's really, really small. Also it's best to test different profiles and find out one that doesn't have any weird behaviors (no double clicks, working repeat when holding the remote button down etc) and allows you to use most or all buttons on the remote (some devices don't use as many buttons so profiles on remotes sometimes disable some buttons).
  10. Hi, You can just select some profile for a device you don't have at home and the just pair it (record its keys and map them to keyboard keys using Flirc GUI app). Most of remotes work. My best experience so far is with remotes using NEC family protocols. You can, for example, select some of the fairly recent LG or Samsung TV. For example, I'm using Samsung TV profile on my universal remote (not Harmony) because I have LG TV.
  11. You don't need a Flirc software on Android box. Flirc only needs its software for configuration and programming. The configuration is stored on the device itself and it acts as an USB keyboard.
  12. Flirc will only work with an active session. When you connect using Remote Desktop you probably log out or lock the local session. Maybe sending an enter key after logging out of Remote Desktop session could help, but I'm not really sure. You would need to connect a monitor and check what's going on.
  13. Logitech K400 uses Logitech's Unifying technology receiver. You should have one already if you were able to control your laptop with it. Just unplug it from the laptop and plug it into Shield TV. It's a little dongle with a logo like this http://business.logitech.com/assets/46414/12/mk330fobeu-455x500.png You can also buy the Unifying receiver if you need another one and pair the keyboard to it, but you need to remember that the keyboard can be only paired to a single receiver at any one time. If you program it with another then it removes previous pairing (unless the keyboard or mouse has an option to switch between multiple receivers, but K400 doesn't have that).
  14. That's great :). You don't really need the Flirc software on the target system. As I've mentioned before, you only need Flirc software for programming/configuration. After that Flirc emulates an USB keyboard, so you don't need any extra drivers to control PC or any other device that can be controlled with a keyboard.
  15. Hi, Flirc Raspberry Pi Case has been created for Raspberry Pi B+. Because the board layout of Raspberry Pi 2 and now Raspberry Pi 3 didn't changed much the case has still the same design. I don't know why Raspberry Pi Foundation changed the MicroSD card slot to non-springy one (probably to cut costs), but Flirc doesn't have anything to do with that change. Also Raspberry Pi Foundation doesn't ask case manufacturers what they think of the change. The tape solution is the easiest one - you just need a little bit of tape to stick out of the case enough to be able to grab it with fingers. You can also use tweezers to grab the card. Also there's a third solution: you can always mod the case yourself by removing a little bit of plastic below the card slot until you are able to pull the card with just your fingernail.
  16. Until Jason finds out what's happening recently with Windows 10 you would need to get access to another PC with Windows 7 or Linux. I think running those as virtual machine (in VirtualBox for example) would also work after setting USB pass-through for Flirc to be connected to guest machine instead of host. After that Flirc should work properly in Windows 10 as it doesn't need Flirc software to work (its only required for programming).
  17. Hi, Can you tell us more about your PC? Which Windows version and on what hardware it's running on. Which USB port version/type. Do you have access to a different PC to which you can connect Flirc instead to check if it's working?
  18. Hi, To control Flirc you need to set up additional device on your remote. Basically you should have a separate device set up on remote for each hardware device you have: 1 - TV, 2 - CableBox, 3 - SoundBar, 4 - Flirc. I don't know RCA remotes at all (and you haven't provided model of the remote) so I can't tell you how many devices is your remote capable of controlling at the same time. If you don't like the RCA remote here's one I would like to recommend to you: http://www.amazon.com/One-All-OARUSB04G-Universal-Programming/dp/B00HNIHM5S With default firmware this remote is capable of controlling up to 4 devices. There's also a community created extended firmware for this remote (installed really easy, doesn't require any special hardware and there's no risk of breaking the remote) that extends the remote with the ability to control up to 12 devices and many other advanced features (like the shift button, long press macros etc). There's also a community created application that you can run on your PC to fully configure the remote using USB cable.
  19. Yes, that's the keyboard layout issue. I've already described it many times :) together with solution. Here're some references: BTW great choice of the remote :). I also have URC-6440. Are you also using RemoteMaster from JP1 forum? Which setup core are you using with Flirc? Try to use code 2051 for TV device.
  20. To be honest I just can't understand why so many people are sticking to MS MCE profiles on their universal remotes to use with Flirc. My best experience so far was with NEC family protocols used by LG and Samsung hardware (at least some of them). Personally I'm using a profile for some Samsung TV which uses NECx2 protocol and I don't have any issues with Flirc connected to Raspberry Pi 2 running OSMC. Even though I'm happy with my setup right now, I'm planning to do some further tests with other protocols. A software for my remote gives me ability to manually create any profile I want: I can select a protocol from rather comprehensive list of them and define any button codes I want for each of the keys. Only problem is the lack of time.
  21. Can you try selecting different device profile in your remote for use with Flirc? For example if you don't have LG TV then try selecting a profile for one and use it to program Flirc.
  22. Hi, First of all, Flirc doesn't need any software for its normal operation. The software is only needed for programming, after that you can move Flirc to any other computer (or USB keyboard controllable device) without the software and it will work. As for the MS MCE remote, no, it won't work as an MCE receiver out of the box. You would still need to program it first. I'll look at your other thread.
  23. Hi, I'm using some Samsung TV setup code on my OFA URC-6440 and I don't have any issues with key repeat or double press. It uses NECx2 protocol with device id 7 and sub device id 7. The setup code for the device (in case of my remote, I don't know if all OFA remotes share the same code book) is 2051. You can also use RemoteMaster and create your own device upgrade. Use NECx2 (I've had the best experience with this one) and enter some custom device and sub device IDs so it doesn't collide with your other equipment (check other device upgrades you use in RemoteMaster if they also use NECx2 and if they do what device/sub device IDs they use).
  24. I mean take the Harmony software and select something different than Flirc/Kodi :). For example you can use some LG or Samsung TV profiles. After that connect Flirc to your PC, open Flirc GUI software and record keys from the profile you've selected on the Harmony you want to control Kodi with.
  25. Hi, It looks like a conflicting protocol. I don't know what IR protocol is used by Vizio but the signal timings are probably very close to that of a volume down signal from Vizio remote. Maybe Vizio receiver logic is not very strict with signal timings and interprets Flirc codes as its own volume down function. Such conflicts are usually very rare but they are possible (even with hardware like TV and DVR from different producers they can sometimes overlap). You can use a different device profile on the Harmony and record your keys manually in Flirc instead of using built-in Kodi profile. That way you can choose any device profile and be sure there are no conflicts with your current hardware. Just do some tests if every button on the remote for selected profile is recognized as unique key.
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